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Old 08-16-2012, 11:15 PM   #196
DRONE OP
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Other problems

Another problem to report is that on this same day I cooked my hydraulic clutch slave cylinder. By searching the forum you'll find that this is a typical maintenance item on the 1150GS, especially after 50,000 miles (I've got 64,000 now). I need a new one. Think I'll put in one of those steel braided clutch lines at the same time. Maybe get proactive and upgrade the clutch too?

The other problem is that while on a trip to Idaho last month for the USCA National Rally, I blew out the seals on my Ohlins front shock. I'm getting that rebuilt now by KFG Racing and while it's off the bike I'm also bumping up the spring rate a couple of levels.

Does it ever end?

For you guys who get bored by posts with no pics, here's SWMBO at Barlow Pass all bundled up to stay warm on a typical July afternoon in Western Washington. You can see the front shock oil on the telelever--

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DRONE screwed with this post 08-16-2012 at 11:27 PM
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:18 AM   #197
davebig
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Hmmmm !

Drone
Its a lot of work to change clutches, the throwout bearing or clutch slave is allot easier and can be done with transmission in the bike.If it ain't broke don't fix it. No it never ends.DB
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:35 AM   #198
Abenteuerfahrer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
Another problem to report is that on this same day I cooked my hydraulic clutch slave cylinder. By searching the forum you'll find that this is a typical maintenance item on the 1150GS, especially after 50,000 miles (I've got 64,000 now). I need a new one. Think I'll put in one of those steel braided clutch lines at the same time. Maybe get proactive and upgrade the clutch too?

The other problem is that while on a trip to Idaho last month for the USCA National Rally, I blew out the seals on my Ohlins front shock. I'm getting that rebuilt now by KFG Racing and while it's off the bike I'm also bumping up the spring rate a couple of levels.

Does it ever end?

For you guys who get bored by posts with no pics, here's SWMBO at Barlow Pass all bundled up to stay warm on a typical July afternoon in Western Washington. You can see the front shock oil on the telelever--

Yo Droney...Amigo...Fear not, Hasten Not...you might only need to clean and reflush your Slave . Might be just darn schmutzig (dirty). Although a nice braided Stainless steel cable would complement the simple repair.

See here: http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom...Flush.php.html

LOve your SWMBO...reminds me of the countless miles I had with mine

cheers....
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:47 AM   #199
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Originally Posted by DRONE
Another problem to report is that on this same day I cooked my hydraulic clutch slave cylinder. By searching the forum you'll find that this is a typical maintenance item on the 1150GS, especially after 50,000 miles (I've got 64,000 now). I need a new one. Think I'll put in one of those steel braided clutch lines at the same time. Maybe get proactive and upgrade the clutch too?



And... ??

Cheers...

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Old 08-28-2012, 03:25 PM   #200
DRONE OP
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Originally Posted by davebig View Post
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
Can't say I subscribe to this philosophy. What we got here is an organic clutch which is designed to wear out and be replaced, with an unknown amount of abuse dished out by the previous owner for 47,000 miles as a solo bike. Then, another 18,000 miles of use as a sidecar rig which basically is more abuse even if you drive it gentle. Finally, we have God who has already proven that His idea of a funny joke is to have the clutch burn out in the middle of the first trip I take after replacing the slave.

So, the clutch ain't broke but I'm fixing it anyway. Towed the bike to South Sound BMW today and left it there with instructions to replace the slave and the clutch. I bought a TRW/Lucas sintered metal friction plate from Wunderlich which should last for the remaining life of the bike. Also bought a new housing plate, pressure plate and diaphram spring.

Since I had to remove the subframe and the y-pipe for this clutch job, I'm taking the opportunity to get the y-pipe ceramic coated to match my headers, and getting the subframe powder coated.

Not sure yet what all this is gonna cost me, but it should come out less than $2k. Prolly around $1800.
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:18 PM   #201
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Your sub frame is already powder coated.
If you want it repowdercoated we send stuff out every Monday and get it back the following monday and would be glad to send it out with our stuff to save you some money.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:58 PM   #202
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Thanks, Jay, but too late!! There's a powdercoater 5 minutes from my house able to strip the subframe, blast it and re-coat it for $62. Dropped it off there on my way back from Fife. I'm changing it to "alu" silver to match my y-pipe and engine. So it'll really look good from underneath for when I'm changing the oil!
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Old 08-28-2012, 10:11 PM   #203
davebig
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It's your time and money !

Drone
I like your clutch plate choice anyway and ceramic coated Y pipe, not for appearance but a warm pipe is a better flowing pipe.Where you perhaps a pilot in a previous career ? It never hurts to error on the side of caution.

I just picked my effort up from Claude on Monday and hauled it 1k miles home. I used an 04 GS adv also for a tug with 70 + k miles everyone put on by me I'll post my show and tell ego thread in a few days.I'm the mini Schnauzer fan who bought an old GL1100/Ural from one of your neighbors in Firecrest after straightening that mess out, I decided I liked sidecars enough to pursue it more,(that and I had a buyer for the Honda/Ural) hence one of Claude's for one of my GS's. they're allot different from the gl/Ural rig.DB
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:54 PM   #204
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Originally Posted by davebig View Post
Drone
I like your clutch plate choice anyway and ceramic coated Y pipe, not for appearance but a warm pipe is a better flowing pipe.Where you perhaps a pilot in a previous career ? It never hurts to error on the side of caution.

I just picked my effort up from Claude on Monday and hauled it 1k miles home. I used an 04 GS adv also for a tug with 70 + k miles everyone put on by me I'll post my show and tell ego thread in a few days.I'm the mini Schnauzer fan who bought an old GL1100/Ural from one of your neighbors in Firecrest after straightening that mess out, I decided I liked sidecars enough to pursue it more,(that and I had a buyer for the Honda/Ural) hence one of Claude's for one of my GS's. they're allot different from the gl/Ural rig.DB
Glad you got home okay davebig. And thanks for tweaking my GS a little the thing does run a lot better!!
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:06 PM   #205
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DRONE, I have a 1150GS with a Dauntless tub, and I love it! I had also put a mile or two on my clutch. Around 117,000 sMiles as a matter of fact. And it still had some life in it! Well, at least you couldn't read the news paper through it yet! I have had the tub on it for almost 2 years now. This last winter I had it torn down for some much needed work and put in a Wunderlich sintered clutch and R850R 37:11 FD. The rig now climbs up steep hills like a mountain goat!

I'm sure you will like the clutch. I can't say enough good things about mine! Some things to keep in mind if this is your first one. It will take a LOT longer to bed the clutch than with a stock clutch. I got mine bedding in at about the 1000 sMile point. And by 1500 I was golden! I have talked to others who said it took almost 2000 or more on theirs. If you try to baby the bedding process you will really hate the clutch. It will chatter and clang like a caged ape! Keep your RPMs up just a bit higher than normal and be real smooth (I'm not talking slow, just smooth, and just as fast as you would with the stock one) when letting out the clutch and you will fall in love when it does finally bed in. I would be the first one to admit I am a bit hard on my bikes. I never was one to take the easy route. That said, I do try to take good care of them, I just don't baby them.

Speed Safe...
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Old 08-29-2012, 09:29 PM   #206
DRONE OP
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Yeah, KC, I read your posts and every other one on this topic before deciding on the sintered clutch. Appreciate your info and feedback.

For all the experts out there-- is there a way to speed up the bedding? I seem to remember a post by MikePa saying that he would gently slip his ceramic clutch over and over again out on the highway at a steady 60 or 70 mph in order to get it bedded fast. My memory might be flawed, but the question remains--is there a way to bed it faster?

Yeah, I know, just buy it three Long Island Ice Teas and tell it that it has beautiful skin.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:03 PM   #207
KCDakar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
Yeah, KC, I read your posts and every other one on this topic before deciding on the sintered clutch. Appreciate your info and feedback.

For all the experts out there-- is there a way to speed up the bedding? I seem to remember a post by MikePa saying that he would gently slip his ceramic clutch over and over again out on the highway at a steady 60 or 70 mph in order to get it bedded fast. My memory might be flawed, but the question remains--is there a way to bed it faster?

Yeah, I know, just buy it three Long Island Ice Teas and tell it that it has beautiful skin.
Jm2c, Tough you have a sintered clutch, all the other parts are still Stock. To much heat can still harm those parts.
May I ask why you would want to speed this process up? Just wondering...
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To me, the best kind of trips are the ones you planned on the way, allowed yourself to change, and maybe didn't end up where you expected. Klay

I tell it what it wants to hear, and it does what I want it to do. I made that Motronic my bitch. Poolside


Save $5 on Smugmug by entering coupon code: GJBcMk1uLoZm6
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:10 AM   #208
davebig
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it's not rocket science

Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
Yeah, KC, I read your posts and every other one on this topic before deciding on the sintered clutch. Appreciate your info and feedback.

For all the experts out there-- is there a way to speed up the bedding? I seem to remember a post by MikePa saying that he would gently slip his ceramic clutch over and over again out on the highway at a steady 60 or 70 mph in order to get it bedded fast. My memory might be flawed, but the question remains--is there a way to bed it faster?

Yeah, I know, just buy it three Long Island Ice Teas and tell it that it has beautiful skin.
The way we used to do it with cars with single disc clutches was to put the car against something solid (phone pole) and slip the clutch a bit.If a disk is fuzzy and grabby slipping it burns the whiskers off of the disc face.DB
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:59 AM   #209
Abenteuerfahrer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
Yeah, KC, I read your posts and every other one on this topic before deciding on the sintered clutch. Appreciate your info and feedback.

For all the experts out there-- is there a way to speed up the bedding? I seem to remember a post by MikePa saying that he would gently slip his ceramic clutch over and over again out on the highway at a steady 60 or 70 mph in order to get it bedded fast. My memory might be flawed, but the question remains--is there a way to bed it faster?

Yeah, I know, just buy it three Long Island Ice Teas and tell it that it has beautiful skin.
I am sans moto/sidecar now and will slowly become history in all things technical input regarding sidecaring
. but a little bit of wisdom is still there for me to give..... you some input. Hope ya'll don't mind.

Your clutch has a full 360 sintered surface, while mine is/was a TT ceramic clutch that had four hockey puck like knobs at 12-3-6-9 o'clock. With this set-up one had to bed the clutch and pressure plate slowly over a span of approximately 2000-4000 miles, because there were only 4 contact poinnts. Mikepa also had a TT ceramic clutch thus the attempt to break it in earlier ?, however on his GS1150 he had remove a shim now and then given so many miles before a final perfet precise matting was evident. This is shim reduction is not done on 1200GS'es.

Not so with your 360 sintered clutch. Yours will eventually bed itself in no time...drive like you would everyday...no need to speed up the bedding..just go and enjoy. You'll love it.

Now if you ask what's the difference between ceramic and sintered:

Ceramic is the hardest, and longest wearing. It is a horrible conductor of heat, so all slipping heat goes onto the plates. It will last the longest. Certainly that if you ever replace it... the plates will need to be replaced also. Generally has the narrowest friction zone. Can be slow to break in....2000-6000 miles depending on your riding habits, terrain, etc! If you seriously intentionally abuse it to the hilt it can "eat" into your pressure plate like candy. It's a lifetime clutch..possibly a heirloom for your kids next bike.

Sintered is composite mostly metallic substance, consisting of steel, carbon, copper (not so much now) and other metal and non-metallic (even some ceramics) powders pressed together under high heat and pressure. Here the disk and plates will both get hot, so a bit different thermal capacity. Also wears the plates but not as bad as organic, breaks in much faster, much improved friction zone. Both will get you home if your main seal leaks and the clutch housing pools oil!

So Dronie ...let it spin...give it time to marry...then a great long relationship into the golden years..

cheers...

Abenteuerfahrer screwed with this post 08-30-2012 at 08:53 AM
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:03 AM   #210
mightymatt43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abenteuerfahrer View Post
I am sans moto/sidecar now and will slowly become history in all things technical input regarding sidecaring
. but a little bit of wisdom is still there for me to give..... you some input. Hope ya'll don't mind.

Your clutch has a full 360 sintered surface, while mine is/was a TT ceramic clutch that had four hockey puck like knobs at 12-3-6-9 o'clock. With this set-up one had to bed the clutch and pressure plate slowly over a span of approximately 2000-4000 miles, because there were only 4 contact poinnts. Mikepa also had a TT ceramic clutch thus the attempt to break it in, however on his GS1150 he had remove a shim now and then given so many miles before a final perfet precise matting was evident. This is shim reduction is not done on 1200GS'es.

Not so with your 360 sintered clutch. Yours will eventually bed itself in no time...drive like you would everyday...no need to speed up the bedding..just go and enjoy. You'll love it.

Now if you ask what's the difference between ceramic and sintered:

Ceramic is the hardest, and longest wearing. It is a horrible conductor of heat, so all slipping heat goes onto the plates. It will last the longest. Certainly that if you ever replace it... the plates will need replaced also. Generally has the narrowest friction zone. Can be slow to break in.2000-6000 miles depending on your riding habits, terrain, etc! If you seriously intentionally abuse it to the hilt it can "eat" into your pressure plate like candy. It' a lifetine clutch..possibly a heirloom for your kids next bike.

Sintered is composite mostly metallic substance, consisting of steel, carbon, copper (not so much now) and other metal and non-metallic (even some ceramics) powders pressed together under high heat and pressure. Here the disk and plates will both get hot, so a bit different thermal capacity. Also wears the plates but not as bad as organic, breaks in much faster, much improved friction zone.

So Dronie ...let it spin...give it time to marry...then a great long relationship into the golden years..

cheers...
I'm gonna miss these lessons. I have seriously considered going to a ceramic clutch and now feel a bit more educated. Thank you, sir!
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