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Old 04-10-2013, 06:09 AM   #361
davebig
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Something smells

I did a little research before I left the house this am.My rs final drive non abs 34/11 has same spacing as a later model with abs 95mm c to c , the backing plates Aluminum and should be weldable by any competent tig guy, I'd move the tab or close the hole if your friend has a lathe have him make you a alum plug and get someone to weld it in place.If you want to express mail it to me we'll weld the hole closed, somebody took that FD apart and assembled it with different backing plate.DB

Did a little more checking, my 00 rig has brembo and the 04 tokico appears to be no diff in caliper spacing 95mm but I didn't take them off, I believe you got a FD with a K-bike backing plate on it they originally used a smaller two piston setup.DB
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davebig screwed with this post 04-10-2013 at 08:39 AM
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:12 AM   #362
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Originally Posted by davebig View Post
I did a little research before I left the house this am.My rs final drive non abs 34/11 has same spacing as a later model with abs 95mm c to c , the backing plates Aluminum and should be weldable by any competent tig guy, I'd move the tab or close the hole if your friend has a lathe have him make you a alum plug and get someone to weld it in place.If you want to express mail it to me we'll weld the hole closed, somebody took that FD apart and assembled it with different backing plate.DB

Did a little more checking, my 00 rig has brembo and the 04 tokico appears to be no diff in caliper spacing 95mm but I didn't take them off, I believe you got a FD with a K-bike backing plate on it they originally used a smaller two piston setup.DB
The problem is not with the spacing of the tabs. They are the same. The problem is the mounting carrier plates for the two calipers are different. On the ABS caliper, the carrier is bigger and the ABS-style final drives have sort of a cut-out built into them that the carrier slides into. The non-ABS drives don't have the cutout so you can't get the ABS-style caliper to drop that last 5mm to sit flush to the drive which is where it needs to be to get the mounting holes to line up.

Can you machine the ABS caliper mounting plate (carrier) to remove the excess material? Yes. But, it weakens it. See the next post for how it all worked out.

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Old 04-11-2013, 10:13 AM   #363
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The final drive problem is sorted. I went with Option (1). Many thanks to all you guys for your ideas and offers to help.

The original game plan was to swap the two FD's intact and, as long as the rear end was apart, replace the driveshaft and the rear rotor, and install the JL paralever bushings. This is what we did. Then, my mechanic wire-tied the GS caliper to the passenger peg and I rode the bike home. Last night I found what I believe to be the correct caliper being sold by an inmate in California off of a R850R for $70 shipped. When that gets here, I'll put in a set of new pads, install it, bleed it, and I'm done.

The reason I was so upset the other day, and which I failed to say out loud, was because the FD work was being done by my local (and very excellent) BMW dealer and by their most talented (and very excellent) mechanic. But excellence comes at a price--currently about $2/minute. Any slight hitch in the install process causes my wallet to start bleeding like a stuck pig. The online wailing and cursing you can see above was me (the pig) bleeding money.

Option (2) was never really viable. I could have considered it if the work was being done by me in my garage with no time pressures. But as long as the bike was up on the lift at South Sound BMW, I had to go with the option that would get it out of there as quickly as possible.

Anybody reading this thread who still believes that BMW owners are a bunch of tightwads, consider that earlier this Spring I got my rear shock re-built and re-sprung at a cost of $520, then there's this--
  • $315 used final drive
  • $125 new JL paralever bushings
  • $183 new rotor
  • $515 labor for the above
  • $705 new drive shaft
  • $235 labor for the drive shaft
  • $107 misc seals and parts
  • $70 used caliper
  • $20 new brake pads
TOTAL -- $2795 !

Now you might question my decision to have this work done by the dealer instead of myself. This gets back to a Dirty Harry quote I've used in this thread before--"A man's got to know his limitations." I read the FD R&R article in the HOW, I read a bunch of threads about it, and I even got a personlized and very detailed set of instructions from fellow GS hacker Square4 (thanks, man!). After reading all these I was convinced that this job is beyond my wrenching ability. Using 20-20 hindsight, I think I made the right decision. Even though it cost mucho dinero, the $750 in labor was worth it!

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Old 04-11-2013, 10:41 AM   #364
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Holy Hell Drone,

Do I need to take up a collection for gas money on your behalf so you can get Kirby to the Bigfoot Rally?
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:05 PM   #365
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Let's just say that me and Queen Bee will be dining "in" for a while!
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:03 PM   #366
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Wow !

Drone
What the hell is the labor rate ? Gina's here in IA is one of the top dealers in the nation and only get 75 an hr, I gotta charge my friends more, your lucky you never had to bleed the power brakes.
That's allot of tedious work but it's not hard or technical, it seems to me I saw a thread where you took a head off, those cam chains are allot more dangerous than R&R FD and swing arm. DB
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:10 PM   #367
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$117/hr including state tax. We are not in Iowa anymore.

I'll mention that I did not just have them bolt on the new FD. I asked them to remove the rear housing, replace the seals, check the wheel bearing and crown bearing (which were fine), check the wear pattern on the gear set to see if it needed to be re-shimmed (it did not), and check the pinion bearing. That probably added an hour to the labor, but at least I found out that the used FD I bought was actually in really nice shape.

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Old 04-11-2013, 07:26 PM   #368
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Damn I almost moved to Seatle once used to get the paper Post Intelligencer or something like that, real estate was about what it was here. The twin cities BMW dealers are less than wonderful at 100 an hr, the most competent guys are 140 miles Moon Motors or Gina's in IA City 200. Next sidecar project may be a Mini Cooper.DB
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:27 PM   #369
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Drone
Any test miles and thoughts yet ? While I'm thinking about it I believe its the diff between abs and absi, I'm headed to the garage right now and will study the drives I have again.DB
I see the backing plate issue, I will be getting another abs backing plate and welding the hole closed, before I change mine.DB
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:41 PM   #370
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Not gonna ride the outfit until I get the rear brake caliper installed. The used caliper I bought arrives tomorrow in a brown truck. Hopefully it will fit and I'll be able to test ride this weekend.

Edit 5/16--new caliper arrived. Doesn't fit. The problem here is that I need a caliper with the right carrier. I know the part number, but the part number is not stamped anywhere on the caliper. So a bike breaker can't tell me exactly which caliper he's got. Only the part numbers of the caliper components are stamped on the caliper.

Went onto eBay and there are like about 15 BMW R-bike rear calipers for sale and ALL of them have the wrong carrier! What's up with that?

I think I might take this used caliper I just bought for $70 and try grinding down the carrier. When I'm done, if the carrier looks too thin to handle the stress of braking, I'll toss it and try to find another used one that fits.

Edit 5/17--Here's what the caliper carrier looks like--


And here's where it sits on top of the FD instead of behind it. You can see how far off the mounting holes are--


Here's the carrier after I ground it down--


The holes line up and it's flush up against the FD housing--


Is it too thin? I don't know.

Here's a side-by-side showing how much metal was removed--


The orange arrows represent the direction of force applied to the carrier when the brakes are in use. The caliper is held in place by those two pins. Seems to me like once the carrier is torqued down with those two huge M10 bolts--it's not going anywhere.

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Old 04-15-2013, 05:52 PM   #371
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I should be in WA its been raining or sleeting alternately here for a week from 32-38 F.Why did I ever comeback here Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ???????? DB
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Old 04-16-2013, 05:18 PM   #372
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Drones Suffering non abs woes


On the left an 31/11 from an ABS bike notice area below mounting bosses, on the right another early 90's 34/11 from an R1100rs non abs bikeway more material below the bosses, as Drone found out the abs bikes brake caliper mount will not work. Since I'm planning on using this 34/11 on my GSA hack rig, I'm almost glad he suffered a bit, I'll be finding a hi mileage or parts drive for its backing plate and will weld the abs hole closed in my swap.thanks Drone.DB
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:23 AM   #373
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You know after reading the fun you boys are having swapping final drives.I'm glad I kept the stock one and had Tomm Cutter rebuild it.For $638 it was a hell of alot easier.. And he does a great job..The local shops prices were crazy..They wouldn't take just the FD either..I now have a FD I can trust..Mayb ethis year no break downs..Dave maybe 'll see you at the GR3 & Drone I'll see you at the Sidecar Nationals...Good luck boys....
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:47 AM   #374
davebig
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Originally Posted by Melrone View Post
You know after reading the fun you boys are having swapping final drives.I'm glad I kept the stock one and had Tomm Cutter rebuild it.For $638 it was a hell of alot easier.. And he does a great job..The local shops prices were crazy..They wouldn't take just the FD either..I now have a FD I can trust..Mayb ethis year no break downs..Dave maybe 'll see you at the GR3 & Drone I'll see you at the Sidecar Nationals...Good luck boys....
Melrone if I let you ride mine down at GR3 you'll need a steering change and a final drive change LOL.DB
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:51 PM   #375
davebig
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Drone your a Fabricator !!! You'll be fine as the principal job of the rear brake is to transfer force to the front where most of the braking done.
I just grabbed this off fleabay :http://www.ebay.com/itm/150977991229...S:1120&vxp=mtr
To effect my plan, weld the hole shut, I doubt that I could be lucky enough that it's another 34/11. Onward and forward, delighted that you think I'm a bullshit artist Does that mean if we're traveling together I'm free to ignore anyone's mechanical issues and simply shrug my shoulders maybe add a Mark Twain quote or something ? Its rhetorical !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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