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Old 06-26-2013, 09:07 AM   #421
DRONE OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stroker View Post
Is it possible that while installing your new final drive the driveshaft was installed so it was not indexed properly? If the u-joints in your driveshaft are not in the correct orientation this will cause some vibration and possibly u-joint damage. Just a thought...
Quote:
Originally Posted by davebig View Post
Good point Stroker, but he paid for professional work, we can only hope he got it.I would check any thing that moved, the telelever joint at the hing and the ball joint, and looking at Max BMW's fiche there are bushings in the fork leg, I wonder if that change of fork angle(lower triple clamp trail reducer) and a heavy bike would cause them to wear prematurely.DB
Nope. This is a GSA drive shaft. It's keyed. Can only go in one way. The GS drive shafts are the one's that are not keyed and can be installed wrong.

Not to mention that I had the vibrations with the old drive shaft too! I was hoping (3 months ago) that the shaft was the problem but the old shaft was actually in great shape once we pulled it out and inspected it. Since I'd already bought the new shaft for $800 and the whole rear end was taken apart, I went ahead with the replacement. It made no change to the vibrations.
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:25 PM   #422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
Nope. This is a GSA drive shaft. It's keyed. Can only go in one way. The GS drive shafts are the one's that are not keyed and can be installed wrong.

Not to mention that I had the vibrations with the old drive shaft too! I was hoping (3 months ago) that the shaft was the problem but the old shaft was actually in great shape once we pulled it out and inspected it. Since I'd already bought the new shaft for $800 and the whole rear end was taken apart, I went ahead with the replacement. It made no change to the vibrations.
Hard to believe you paid up for a new shaft,I don't suppose you want to sell the old one ? I have taken a bit of your advice and have a Lumix on the way as I badly need a camera for my pocket, missed nice shot tonight a young farmer and his 4 y/o son herding about 40 Holsteins across a tiny road I was on for evening chores.DB
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Old 07-01-2013, 09:47 AM   #423
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Originally Posted by KCDakar View Post
I had this same issue last year. Mine turned out to be an issue with the transmission. (shaft at the least). I have not done anymore with mine to see how deep my issue went. That's for a different day and more money. When you next take the bike apart, pull the drive line off and with a pair of (cloth covered jaws) vice grips, slowly move the transmission shaft back and forth and you might find your vibrations coming from there. The test the Mech did was to put the bike up off the tire, with the bike in gear until it stopped its rotation. Then roll it slowly back until it JUST kissed at the stop and them did a tiny jerk farther. He did this going both ways. If it gives more than just a smidgen, his word, it is too loose. He first thought it was the drive shaft. When it came out looking good, he then checked the other parts and found the Tranny issue.
That said, I still have something going on even now and the only thing I have left is the driveshaft to replace new. I just need $700 to buy one. Well, I do have a messed up rim on the front, but I am not feeling it up front, I am feeling it in my pegs and seat. At least that is my take on it.

Good luck,

...as I wait with baited breath to see how this turns out...
I showed your post to my mechanic and I described the vibrations again. He now thinks that you may be right--it very well might be the output shaft bearing on the transmission. Of course, an expensive repair because of the number of hours of labor needed.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:49 AM   #424
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Vibration saga continues - Gearbox

OK, just heard from my mechanic. Gearbox out and inspected. All bearings in good shape. Output shaft bearing nice and tight. No unusual wear anywhere. The entire gearbox in good shape. Gonna replace all bearings and seals but he told me not to expect any improvement in the vibrations. Should be getting the bike back on Monday as he squeezed me into an already full schedule.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:18 AM   #425
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Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
OK, just heard from my mechanic. Gearbox out and inspected. All bearings in good shape. Output shaft bearing nice and tight. No unusual wear anywhere. The entire gearbox in good shape. Gonna replace all bearings and seals but he told me not to expect any improvement in the vibrations. Should be getting the bike back on Monday as he squeezed me into an already full schedule.


Get him/her to check the end float on the crank while the box is off .

Does the vibration lesson or go away when you pull the clutch in at speed ?


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Old 07-10-2013, 09:33 AM   #426
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I believe I should insult you at great length about throwing good money after bad, but I'm trying to be less cynical. On the GS mailing list we've already had a gentlemen who insisted on running a synthetic gear lube he overhauled his transmission also, it was noisy before and after which is why I suggested you try a good quality str 90wt industrial gearlube, I already tried pissy gear lubes years ago they where noisy and sucked but the rigs shifted nicer.
You guys all seem to think BMW is unimpeachable engineers don't build anything bean counters do, the art of engineering is using less to do more.DB
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Old 07-10-2013, 04:32 PM   #427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR700 View Post
Get him/her to check the end float on the crank while the box is off .

Does the vibration lesson or go away when you pull the clutch in at speed ?
I only vibrate under power. I have no appreciable vibration when I pull the clutch handle.

Now I have turned my crosshairs on the shock. Since the Adventure shock is already longer than the standard shock, and my shock is longer than the Adventure shock, my shock I think might be TOO long. I'm thinking that maybe the angle of the drive shaft is too severe and is causing the vibrations. So I'm having my Ohlins guy return it to stock length.
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:46 PM   #428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
I only vibrate under power. I have no appreciable vibration when I pull the clutch handle.

...


I'm thinking that maybe the angle of the drive shaft is too severe and is causing the vibrations. So I'm having my Ohlins guy return it to stock length.



Haven't read where this problem has only surfaced since the lift .

The steeper shaft angle will shorten the service life of the unis and rob horsepower , yes .

Rule of thumb says 22 degrees as max for a uni or you need to start looking at a CV joint .

Save some money ... grab a ratchet strap and cinch down the rear shock to lessen the shaft angle ( might pay to do the same for the chair shock at the same time to negate interesting new traits in the handling ) ... take it for a ride ... report back .



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Old 07-10-2013, 07:46 PM   #429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR700 View Post
Haven't read where this problem has only surfaced since the lift .

The steeper shaft angle will shorten the service life of the unis and rob horsepower , yes .

Rule of thumb says 22 degrees as max for a uni or you need to start looking at a CV joint .

Save some money ... grab a ratchet strap and cinch down the rear shock to lessen the shaft angle ( might pay to do the same for the chair shock at the same time to negate interesting new traits in the handling ) ... take it for a ride ... report back .



.
Very good idea and information, I have reason to believe your way oversprung anyway at least at the front how much sag does the rig have ? they need to have some.Finding it hard to believe a 61 y/o man with a bad knee needs a rig sprung to desert race.DB
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:48 PM   #430
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Haven't read where this problem has only surfaced since the lift .
That's because I never suggested it. The problem surfaced after the lift, but not at once. It was a couple of months later. All I know is that I did not have these vibrations last season and I do have them this season. So something has changed. And that, then, points the finger at either some problem related to wear, or to some modification I made. Since I've pretty much eliminated all of the wear items, that just leaves me with the shock, which is the only thing I changed on the rig last winter.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:58 PM   #431
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Very good idea and information, I have reason to believe your way oversprung anyway at least at the front how much sag does the rig have ? they need to have some.Finding it hard to believe a 61 y/o man with a bad knee needs a rig sprung to desert race.DB
My shock info is posted HERE.

I'm not saying the shock is causing the vibrations. Like I said above, I've swiveled my crosshairs in that direction because there simply aren't any other targets to look at.

By the way, I used to bottom out both the front and the rear shock. After I resprung the front, it eliminated 90% of the bottoming, but I was still bottoming the rear on occasion. The changes I made to the rear eliminated all bottoming. As a result, I'm now totally happy with the ride both on pavement and off.

Regarding the sag, I've only measured it unladen. Maybe when I'm at the Bigfoot Rally I can get a couple of guys to help me measure it with me and my gear on board.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:45 PM   #432
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Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
I'm not saying the shock is causing the vibrations. Like I said above, I've swiveled my crosshairs in that direction because there simply aren't any other targets to look at.


Ok , twenty questions time

Does it vibrate in neutral when you rev the motor at a standstill? As in under no load ?


Silly and cheap things to consider ... loosen the alt' belt and see if it goes away .

Crank end float ( thrust bearings out of spec' ) , cam chain guides/tensioner .


Can not recall if you added a heavy duty clutch ( ceramic * shudder* button clutch ) ? If the clamping pressure has been upped it will load the thrust bearings .


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Old 07-11-2013, 08:20 AM   #433
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Only 13 days left till departure date of the trip of a lifetime. Better hurry and get it straightened out. (I'm not bringing any Beemer tools with me)
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:27 AM   #434
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DRONE:

Did you ever verify Jay's assertion that that your tilt-control problem truly is electric, not mechanical? Maybe [grasping at straws] whatever is going on there is contributing to your vibration.

More straws - How about your clutch? You changed that out also.

Didn't you say vibration is only in gears 4, 5, 6? That sure sounds like something in the transmission.

Duncan
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:36 AM   #435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRONE View Post
My shock info is posted HERE.

I'm not saying the shock is causing the vibrations. Like I said above, I've swiveled my crosshairs in that direction because there simply aren't any other targets to look at.

By the way, I used to bottom out both the front and the rear shock. After I resprung the front, it eliminated 90% of the bottoming, but I was still bottoming the rear on occasion. The changes I made to the rear eliminated all bottoming. As a result, I'm now totally happy with the ride both on pavement and off.

Regarding the sag, I've only measured it unladen. Maybe when I'm at the Bigfoot Rally I can get a couple of guys to help me measure it with me and my gear on board.
I don't think you and I are going to agree on much, FR700 and the driveshaft info seem like the best place to look other than the unimpeachable front wheel bearing and you'd feel that. Good luck on your trip.Changing my back tire made a world of difference.DB
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