WUMPA - my DMC Dauntless 1150GS Adventure rig

[ClearwaterBMW]

Originally Posted by DRONE

Got some pics of my luggage to share.


Next, I just got these really cool pannier liners from BagsForBikes.com. Only $109 shipped! They were custom-made for me and my panniers so the fit is perfect. Heavy-duty waterproof nylon cordura, top-loading, two outside pockets on each bag (one zippered on top, and a large velcroed pocket on the side), carry handles, and even embroidered! Wow!

i can't believe they don't make liners for GS Adventure STOCK SIDE CASES
Kathy's Bags does.... from Bob's BMW
but....
these are nice
maybe they'll make some soon
i hope so
nice find

[ClearwaterBMW]

Originally Posted by DRONE

In the 2nd pic of the above post, you can see some marks on the fender. The sidecar originally had a DMC tail light mounted there--three bolt holes and a large center hole for the wiring. I trash-canned that light because I wasn't keen on having electrical wires on the underside of my fender just waiting to be destroyed by the tire, mud, rocks or whatever. I also didn't like being able to see wires spanning the gap between the car and the fender. So that's why I bought a used 1150 tailight and mounted it to the back of the car.

I filled the three bolt holes with some epoxy, and stuck a plastic body panel plug into the 1/4" center hole. I thought about putting a sticker or something there, and that's still something I might do.

while i understand your point, by mounting the right hand tail/turn signal light where you did... you make it even MORE INVISIBLE to someone behind you, who might be a bit "LEFT" of where you are in the lane
lights need to be more OUTboard... not INboard... don't you think?
i DO understand your issue with wires under the fender
but... is there another viable option, in YOUR estimation?

[DRONE]

Originally Posted by NortwestRider

So I will get to see WUMPA in person next weekend right ????.

If you show up!

[DRONE]

Originally Posted by ClearwaterBMW

while i understand your point, by mounting the right hand tail/turn signal light where you did... you make it even MORE INVISIBLE to someone behind you, who might be a bit "LEFT" of where you are in the lane
lights need to be more OUTboard... not INboard... don't you think?
i DO understand your issue with wires under the fender
but... is there another viable option, in YOUR estimation?

Not sure I get your point, Greg. I think I've actually made a real safety improvement with my rear lights. Let me explain.

Both locations for my brake/tail light assembly are equally visible to 99% of the drivers behind me. The other 1% would be a driver passing me just as he got abreast of me, but by then my tail light is no longer really relevant.

But, just because both locations for the lights are equally visible, it doesn't mean they will be seen. With my new setup, I now have two brake/tail lights of the same size and shape, same brightness, mounted at (almost) the same height, and separated by a distance similar to automobile brake/tail lights. They are also approximately centered on the rig as respects the overall width. I think this sort of brake/tail light setup is more effective at getting seen by a driver behind me because those lights "look" like car lights.

What I had before was two dissimilar lights, mounted at different heights, with different shapes, different brightness levels, with one mounted at the outermost position on the right side and one mounted inboard of the panniers on the left side. I believe this unbalanced "look" makes it less likely a driver behind me would react correctly to a sudden braking simply because the old rear lighting didn't "look" like what car drivers are used to seeing. I think that the more you can make your brake/tail lights look like a car the less likely you are to get rear-ended.

Just my opinion. Not citing any evidence or research here.

BTW, my brake/tail lights are not turn signals. The right side turn signals on the car are dual purpose incandescent amber lamps--turn signals and running lights. One facing forward and one facing back. So I actually have 4 rear-facing running lights--two amber and two red.

[ClearwaterBMW]

Originally Posted by DRONE

Not sure I get your point, Greg. I think I've actually made a real safety improvement with my rear lights. Let me explain.

Both locations for my brake/tail light assembly are equally visible to 99% of the drivers behind me. The other 1% would be a driver passing me just as he got abreast of me, but by then my tail light is no longer really relevant.

But, just because both locations for the lights are equally visible, it doesn't mean they will be seen. With my new setup, I now have two brake/tail lights of the same size and shape, same brightness, mounted at (almost) the same height, and separated by a distance similar to automobile brake/tail lights. They are also approximately centered on the rig as respects the overall width. I think this sort of brake/tail light setup is more effective at getting seen by a driver behind me because those lights "look" like car lights.

What I had before was two dissimilar lights, mounted at different heights, with different shapes, different brightness levels, with one mounted at the outermost position on the right side and one mounted inboard of the panniers on the left side. I believe this unbalanced "look" makes it less likely a driver behind me would react correctly to a sudden braking simply because the old rear lighting didn't "look" like what car drivers are used to seeing. I think that they more you can make your brake/tail lights look like a car the less likely you are to get rear-ended.

Just my opinion. Not citing any evidence or research here.

BTW, my brake/tail lights are not turn signals. The right side turn signals on the car are dual purpose incandescent amber lamps--turn signals and running lights. One facing forward and one facing back. So I actually have 4 rear-facing running lights--two amber and two red.

thanks so much for your reply
i appreciate the clarification
i DO understand your point
i have spent money to make myself more conspicuous from the front
but, i must do the same from the rear

i appreciate your information and advice

[BeeMaa]

You have a very nice rig here, but I do have a question about your panniers. From the pics you have shown, it looks like the lid on your right side pannier hits the car (or the Cortech tail bag) when it's open. Do you have a little rubber bumper in place to prevent scratching or damage if it drops open? The Happy Trail panniers, what size did you get and are they mounted on the stock racks or Happy Trails'? Also, what is the clearance between the pannier and the car? Sorry for so many questions. I'm in the process of putting together a R12GSA rig and I want it to be right...the first time.

[BeeMaa]

I'm an idiot. Just realized that you can't mount those panniers on the stock mounts, because the stock mounts have the cutout for the high pipe. My bad.

[DRONE]

Originally Posted by BeeMaa

You have a very nice rig here, but I do have a question about your panniers. From the pics you have shown, it looks like the lid on your right side pannier hits the car (or the Cortech tail bag) when it's open. Do you have a little rubber bumper in place to prevent scratching or damage if it drops open? The Happy Trail panniers, what size did you get and are they mounted on the stock racks or Happy Trails'? Also, what is the clearance between the pannier and the car? Sorry for so many questions. I'm in the process of putting together a R12GSA rig and I want it to be right...the first time.

BeeMaa, you have a good eye, my friend! Yes, indeed, the right pannier lid rests against the car when it's open. It rests on one rounded corner of the car where the pointer is in this pic--




So far, I've just been careful when opening and closing the right pannier. But some sort of rubber bumper is needed there. What would you use?

The panniers are the big 45-liter ones that Happy Trail sells--the 10.5" Tetons--and since I have the lowered muffler, the left pannier is full-sized. The rack is also Happy Trail, though mine is an older style. The current HT rack is a completely different design.

As far as clearance goes, the car trunk is narrower at the rear than at the front. The gap between the front of the pannier and the spot that needs the rubber bumper is 4.25 inches. The gap at the rearmost spot is 6 inches at the top and 7.5 inches at the bottom. Not sure if that helps!

[NortwestRider]

We will be there,I have already paid for the motel !!!!,and I got the shock on and did a test ride with 220lbs in the car yesterday !!.( NO my wife doesn't weigh 220lbs,I screwed up the math and instead of putting in 160lbs I put 220 !!)

[GS Dave]

Originally Posted by NortwestRider

We will be there,I have already paid for the motel !!!!,and I got the shock on and did a test ride with 220lbs in the car yesterday !!.( NO my wife doesn't weigh 220lbs,I screwed up the math and instead of putting in 160lbs I put 220 !!)

so you are good for 60 pounds of beer!

[BeeMaa]

Originally Posted by DRONE

So far, I've just been careful when opening and closing the right pannier. But some sort of rubber bumper is needed there. What would you use?

It looks like you have some anti-skid tape on the lid of your pannier. Good idea by the way. One option I see is to completely cover the top of the pannier with this then locate the spot where the lid hits. Put a small piece of black foam (weather stripping would do the trick) on top of the pannier to protect the finish on the car. Secure with some rubber cement so it could be replaced if needed. It would be small enough to not be easily noticed, but still protect your paint, and allow good purchase of items secured to the panniers. Quick and cheap.

Whatdaya think?

[DRONE]

Originally Posted by BeeMaa

It looks like you have some anti-skid tape on the lid of your pannier. Good idea by the way. One option I see is to completely cover the top of the pannier with this then locate the spot where the lid hits. Put a small piece of black foam (weather stripping would do the trick) on top of the pannier to protect the finish on the car. Secure with some rubber cement so it could be replaced if needed. It would be small enough to not be easily noticed, but still protect your paint, and allow good purchase of items secured to the panniers. Quick and cheap.

Whatdaya think?

The problem with putting the bumper on the lid is that I'll be using those lids as luggage carriers on longer trips. Who knows what might get strapped on there, but a rubber bumper on the lid might not survive for long. I'm more inclined to attach the bumper to the car. Maybe a little piece of white weatherstripping held in place with 3M foam tape? Not sure.

And BTW, that's skateboarding tape I put on the lids.

[BeeMaa]

Originally Posted by DRONE

The problem with putting the bumper on the lid is that I'll be using those lids as luggage carriers on longer trips. Who knows what might get strapped on there, but a rubber bumper on the lid might not survive for long. I'm more inclined to attach the bumper to the car. Maybe a little piece of white weatherstripping held in place with 3M foam tape? Not sure.

And BTW, that's skateboarding tape I put on the lids.

If you have something strapped to the lid of the pannier, then "it" can serve as the bumper. When you don't, the black weather strip will do the job. The reason I said black on the pannier vs. white on the car is dirt. Just easier to keep clean. Bottom line, you have a sweet rig. We should all be so fortunate to have such problems as these. Take it easy.

[claude]

Some type of bumper may be good. Another thought may be a limiting strap on the pannier to stop the lid before it hits the sidecar body.This could be as simple as a piece of nylon strapping sold at hardware stores or much more 'trick' if you want to get invloved.

[DRONE]

Originally Posted by claude

Some type of bumper may be good. Another thought may be a limiting strap on the pannier to stop the lid before it hits the sidecar body.This could be as simple as a piece of nylon strapping sold at hardware stores or much more 'trick' if you want to get invloved.

AHHH! Of course! Guess that's why you make the big bucks.

Definitely a cleaner solution than gluing something on the outside. I have lots of nylon webbing lying around and I think simpler is better in this situation.

Thanks, Claude!