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Old 02-11-2013, 07:52 PM   #3301
Zuber
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Joined: Sep 2004
Location: Main Street, Shedd, Oregon
Oddometer: 1,760
Rekluse recommends that you turn the adjustment screw in 1 1/4 turns, I like 3/4 of a turn. The bike will just 'twitch' at idle and is fully engaged by 3000 rpm. No slip, it releases just before idle.

Great clutch. You can run higher gearing. Very fast in tight woods. No down side yet. I may hook the clutch master to the rear brake since I never touch it now.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:57 AM   #3302
YAHBO
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Location: Eastern Long Island, NY
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Chain?

[QUOTE=Chris6_85;20695171]i did not stall the bike once. with about 25 miles of single track locking up the rear all the time and never stalled it. it just creeps a little. i can start the bike no problem in gear and it does not stall when i put it in gear. engine breaking is different, it will take me and you a little bit to get use to. i found just blip the throttle a little and it will kick in.

also i noticed on the highway 25-45mph with a steady hand on the throttle there was a ever so slight bit of lunging or something around that. i am trying to find the right word to describe what i am talking about. forward and back feeling."



I installed mine and kinda had the same issue. I carefully followed the instructions (did you watch the online video?) went through recommended settings for setting free play gain at the slave cylinder and then carefully adjusted it two hash marks at a time until it was just right at the lever. The bike chatters the chain at idle but does not creep. I called about the chain chatter (my DRZ didn't do that) and the Rekluse dude said that on these bikes they chain needs to be on the loose side (good advice for ANY bike) and that sometimes a slightly higher than normal idle will cause this minimal creep. I run my chains loose, so I dialed back the idle a C hair and it is perfect. As far as the surging at 45, maybe check your chain.

This clutch makes this bike a complete fucking animal. Rear brake kit going on soon as well as about $1000 worth of goodies from Slavens Racing in CO. DO NOT VISIT THAT SITE UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR BANK ACCT TO GO INTO ZERLOAND.

Hope that helps a little.
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Old 02-15-2013, 07:54 AM   #3303
Stifdickerson2006
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Location: Central Coast,Ca
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[QUOTE=YAHBO;20730205]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris6_85 View Post
i did not stall the bike once. with about 25 miles of single track locking up the rear all the time and never stalled it. it just creeps a little. i can start the bike no problem in gear and it does not stall when i put it in gear. engine breaking is different, it will take me and you a little bit to get use to. i found just blip the throttle a little and it will kick in.

also i noticed on the highway 25-45mph with a steady hand on the throttle there was a ever so slight bit of lunging or something around that. i am trying to find the right word to describe what i am talking about. forward and back feeling."



I installed mine and kinda had the same issue. I carefully followed the instructions (did you watch the online video?) went through recommended settings for setting free play gain at the slave cylinder and then carefully adjusted it two hash marks at a time until it was just right at the lever. The bike chatters the chain at idle but does not creep. I called about the chain chatter (my DRZ didn't do that) and the Rekluse dude said that on these bikes they chain needs to be on the loose side (good advice for ANY bike) and that sometimes a slightly higher than normal idle will cause this minimal creep. I run my chains loose, so I dialed back the idle a C hair and it is perfect. As far as the surging at 45, maybe check your chain.

This clutch makes this bike a complete fucking animal. Rear brake kit going on soon as well as about $1000 worth of goodies from Slavens Racing in CO. DO NOT VISIT THAT SITE UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR BANK ACCT TO GO INTO ZERLOAND.

Hope that helps a little.
You can save yourself some money and piece together a LHRB, Go to KTM Talks classifieds and get the rear brake master sleeve insert($80.00) so you can use the rear foot brake and the LHRB, There is a guy selling them in the classifieds and they work great, then go to ebay and buy a Hayes stroker trail Mountain bike brake master cylinder or similiar type. Remove the cap for the res and make a larger gasket for it and then follow the rekluse instructions for install. cost is about $140-$150 for the set up rather than $300.00 from rekluse.works great it takes a little effort to lock up the rear but makes the rear brake very usable.


Yes it is very easy to drop some serious coin on these bikes I sold 4 bikes just to set this bike up the way i want it.I love this bike and it always seems to surprise me at what it does very well. with the rekluse installed this thing is unstoppable.

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Old 02-15-2013, 08:58 AM   #3304
Colemanfu
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Stiffy - I love the Jager graphics. Too bad you can't rig up a dispenser like this trike Looks like a well sorted 500 as well.

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Old 02-15-2013, 09:50 AM   #3305
Stifdickerson2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colemanfu View Post
Stiffy - I love the Jager graphics. Too bad you can't rig up a dispenser like this trike Looks like a well sorted 500 as well.

I do have one. Its just under the seat. Gotta keep warm on those cold mornings, I think I am having Deja Vue, or its the Jager?
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:11 PM   #3306
leftystrat62
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Location: Little Rhody
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harcus View Post
I only suggest that anyone putting any kind of added load on to this machine (or any other for that matter) take a good look at the structure under the seat...or lack of it. No offense to KTM because they designed this bike to be a race bike not a mule. I have a 990 Adv that is IMHO the best off road adventure bike built. It WAS designed to be a mule.

I have welded up several 450 XCW type subframes that have been overloaded. A quick look indicates that much of the aluminum extrusion used on the 500 is similar or identical to that on earlier models. That is to be expected. That means it won't survive long under added load no matter how it is stacked...panniers, soft bags, loops, etc.
Sorry if this has already been answered,but I'm just starting to read through this thread and wondered just how much weight can I expect to carry on this bike if I used your racks. I have a WR250R right now that can carry 70-80lbs no problem if need be,but I'm wondering if you think I could do the same on this bike?
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:27 PM   #3307
nzcvlh
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Location: Superior Township, MI (Ann Arbor)
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Safari 4 Gallon Tank

Has anyone tried installing the Safari 4 gallon tank yet? I just got mine and either they sent me a tank from another model or there are significant fitment issues.

The thickness of the flange material in the area of the fuel pump and fuel line is significantly thinner than stock. As a result the O-rings do not seat / compress. The seat doesn't seem to fit either.

Anyone have any good or bad experience with this application. I sure hope they sent the wrong tank and all will be corrected with the right one. I have a 2013 KTM 500 XCW

Thanks for the feedback
Dave
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:49 PM   #3308
bill1960
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KTM Shock Shortening to Improve Handling and Stability

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=_Z5xrdXEXDg

http://bestdualsportbikes.com/

After 100 hrs of dualsport use, I'm looking at lowering my 500 for easier dabbing and more stability. I'm 52yo and the bike is sprung for my weight (75kg)

Interested in the concept setout in the vid
For dualsport use, they suggest the bikes are too high in the back.
Remedy is internal shock spacer to lower seat height ~1" and fine tune with fork height in clamps and rear sag.

Has anyone tried this mod. Are you happy with the results.
I'm mainly interested in the concept, not necessarily bestdualsportbikes doing the work
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:47 PM   #3309
Notaduke
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Oil screen question

Just about to do the first oil change on 2013 500 EXC. The manual refers to using a "pin wrench" when you insert the long screen into the engine on the side. My dealer said they just use a screwdriver to guide the screen in. I don't see how a pin wrench (the ones I am familiar with) could be replaced by a screw driver, and I'm not thrilled about potentially inserting a pointed steel object into an oil journal.

So, the question for the experienced is: how do you safely insert the long oil screen into the motor?

Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
When you change your oil there are 3 plugs you pull. The first is the magnetic drain plug and the next two are screens (one is next to the drain plug (which is on the left side of the motor) and has that long screen inside. The other is from the bottom. You don't change the screens, you just clean them (I blast mine with carb cleaner).

All 3 plugs use a 13mm wrench/socket. DO NOT remove the allen key from the bottom of the motor that looks like a drain plug (it is not).




after you drain all of those, you then pull the oil filter and let the oil drain from its reservoir.

The oil filter looks like this:


You then lay the bike on its side, half fill the oil filter's reservoir with oil, fill the oil filter with oil and insert it and button it up.. then pick the bike back up.



then fill the rest of the oil.

FWIW.. after draining I put exactly 1.5 liters in and was @ exactly the half way on the site glass. I started at 1300ml and went up 50ml at a time seeing how much the bike actually wanted (on most bikes there is usually some left in the motor so you need to be careful to not overfill - for example on my 950, you put 3 litres in even though it holds 3.5 and then warm the bike and then fill as needed)... but this bike took all 1.5 liters.

Hope this helps
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:51 PM   #3310
Dirty in all
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I just push it in and if it needs a little guidance I use my fingertips to lift it up, you feel it seat when does and it stays seated. Not a real issue.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:54 PM   #3311
Notaduke
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Super, thanks. I had hoped that was the case.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty in all View Post
I just push it in and if it needs a little guidance I use my fingertips to lift it up, you feel it seat when does and it stays seated. Not a real issue.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:03 PM   #3312
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A pair of needle-nose pliers makes grabbing the plastic end real easy as well
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:32 AM   #3313
YAHBO
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Oil screen insert

A 1/4" socket extension works perfectly. If you look into the motor where the screen goes, you can see how the screen needs to sit. Easy stuff.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:22 AM   #3314
Per W
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Joining in the community

Well, after spending the weekend reading ALL pages in this very informative thread I had to order a Sixdays as soon as the dealers opened this morning. Thanks for all the valuable information regarding this bike. It will save me lots of time when it comes to future modifications.

My present favorite bike is a 690 R with rally fairing and tanks from Rally Raid in UK, but it suffers from some extra kilos - just like me. Since I don't have any plans of loosing weight it has to be the bike who stand for this metamorphoses. Welcome 500!

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Old 02-18-2013, 10:36 AM   #3315
MJG2
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Oil intervals

What are you doing

Manual says after 1st hour

then every 15 hours
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