2012 ktm 500 exc?

[team ftb]

If anyone wants to unload a 13L Hardparts tank, or an Acerbis drop me a PM please.

[team ftb]

Originally Posted by Enduro Outlaw

Thanks for the reply. I have my forks 23mm above the clamps and I use bar risers to bring the bars up to make room. I have them in posistion #2. The stock hight I dont care for when standing up.. I makes me feel leaned over to much and less stable. I just can't get comfortable on the bike. The seat shape feels way to flat and the bars feel a litte to high when sitting with the risers and to low in the stock posistion.. feels like a mountain bike to me. I don't know.. I just can't sit on the bike and say... "Yeah!" yet.

Just getting tired of fighting the front end.. back and forth, back and forth.. like driving a floor buffer.. very carful movments.

Have you tried the bike with other fork tube heights? 23mm is big change from stock and will have a large effect on the handling. I would lower the fork tubes 10mm and take it for a whirl. Believe me at 5'5" I feel your desire to lower the bike as much as possible but with that much trail change I'm betting it may be causing the handling issues you're battling. Best bet is to find a flat area that you can run about doing figure 8 turns utilizing different fork tube heights to see if you can get the front to stick better for you.

Let us know what you end up liking the best?

[E-Ticket2]

Originally Posted by Enduro Outlaw

I have done alot of searching and have read this entire thread so hear goes. I have a 2013 500 exc and have wash out issues like crazy. The front end will roll up and out of berms or just throw me flat on my face at any given time.

The main issue is I'm short as hell for this bike at 5.5 but I can ride the hell out of this bike as long as the front end tracks "which is half the time" My corner speed sucks in soft soil because I have to watch the front end or down I go.. My exit speed is so so until I can get it under control. The bike is just so damn tall.. So I have had to lower the forks in the clamps and back off the rear preload just to tip toe this thing.. I know it's funny! I can laugh at myself. I'm talking ricky carmichael short.

Anyway I have the bike setup as soft as I can get it and the front and rear compress evenly and does not bottem out. I don't currently have a $G to spend to get my suspention dropped an inch and valved. I have pirelli XCMH front and rear "Standard Tire Sizes" and the bike handles perfectly on the street. I can hammer it in corners and wheely all the way around. I get better handling out of it on the street than off road.

I got from supermoto feel to Ice skating as soon as I hit the dirt. I understand I have mid to hard tires but damn.. really? I should not feel like I'm riding on wet clay all the time.

Forget revalving for now ....

Have you guys re-sprung your bikes for your weight?
You need to be using the correct spring rates -- BEFORE -- you do anything else.

Best of luck! E-Ticket

[YAHBO]

I have been running Vibranators on my last three high use bikes and they really work.

Tuned mass dampers to combat "tonic Vibration reflex".

www.Vibranator.com

Originally Posted by Stifdickerson2006

I am using the Pro Grip Rally grips, the BRP rubber sub mount, Scotts Steering Stabilizer and the Anti Vibe Bar Inserts from HDB, It may be overkill but it makes for a very smooth ride, I put it all on at once so I could not tell you which one works the best. Just did 300+ miles in two days in the desert and my hands and arms had no issues. My seperated ribs are a different story, but worth it for a good ride with good people. What I can say is that the setup I have makes for one of the smoothest riding bikes Ive had and it does not cause any hand numbness, this includes 300 mile road trips also. Another thing to look at is making sure your wheels are balanced correctly. For me, the pillow top grips always transferred alot of vibration on my old 01 ktm 453 exc, when I went to the Pro Grip Rallys on that bike it help out alot.

[Dirty in all]

I ran across this video and it seems to explain the opposite of what I thought would be help for handling but it says to lower the forks in the tree and lower the shock height to improve the bikes turning and handling. The website is very 500 specific, just passing it along. Last season I had a few flops too where the front end just washes on me both in corners and coming out of the bottom of a large depressions. Havent tried the site suggestions or the mod yet as Im still in winter supermoto trim but I was going to give it a try I think soon. I know I need to get the proper springs but Im really new at setting up for dirt, does anyone have a suggestion for a 240lb rider (no gear) with rear springs? Seems like the springs never get up to my size and I feel like getting one closer to my weight could be better but Im also thinking I want the exact one?



MAYBE THE WORLDS BEST HANDLING FIX: http://bestdualsportbikes.com/dual-s...13-ktm-500-exc

[justlookin]

Since the topic has turned to springing these beasts, any recommended spring charts. How about Progressive springs? I rode a buddys Honda that Mr Wilkey set up several years ago and was very impressed. He used straight wound springs on that one. Anyway I see he is promoting Progressives on the PDS Ktm's and I just don't know, had a Kaw setup several years ago with Progressives and didn't like it - don't remember who did the valving and I bought the bike setup although original owner and I were same size. So how about some spring details for a new to PDS rider. Thanks

[Enduro Outlaw]

Originally Posted by team ftb

Have you tried the bike with other fork tube heights? 23mm is big change from stock and will have a large effect on the handling. I would lower the fork tubes 10mm and take it for a whirl. Believe me at 5'5" I feel your desire to lower the bike as much as possible but with that much trail change I'm betting it may be causing the handling issues you're battling. Best bet is to find a flat area that you can run about doing figure 8 turns utilizing different fork tube heights to see if you can get the front to stick better for you.

Let us know what you end up liking the best?

Thanks for taking the time to hear my rant guys. The springs should be okish.. I'm 190 all geared up.. with water so my ride sage is 110-115 with the forks 23mm up in the clamps. I'm gonna have to save some money and take the suspension and have it cut down and setup. It's so agrivating when you can't push the bike to your full ability and everytime you get off balance not being able to put a foot down so your only option is to get your leg out of the way and drop the bike. OOOPS we're leaning down hill again.. time to jump off and drop the bike.. and repeat I'm gonna need knee sugury if this keeps up.

One thing at a time.. I'm just trying to get some of this wash out under control. I have a flat area I can do 8's. I'll put the bike back in giraffe mode and start over.

I guess I could try a fater front tire.. 90/90-21 S-12.. I hear great things about them.. I know this will not fix the issue but hell.. I'd settle for a bandage right now.

[Dirty in all]

Originally Posted by justlookin

Since the topic has turned to springing these beasts, any recommended spring charts. How about Progressive springs? I rode a buddys Honda that Mr Wilkey set up several years ago and was very impressed. He used straight wound springs on that one. Anyway I see he is promoting Progressives on the PDS Ktm's and I just don't know, had a Kaw setup several years ago with Progressives and didn't like it - don't remember who did the valving and I bought the bike setup although original owner and I were same size. So how about some spring details for a new to PDS rider. Thanks

The progressive from what I understand should be your only choice for the PDS system because it contains no linkage that in essence does the progression on linked bikes.

[Enduro Outlaw]

Ya know what I think my problem is? I ride the exc like an MX bike when it is not an MX bike. I'm expecting to much from it. I have grown up on non pds shock MX bikes so the frame and suspension are totaly different. I'm going to set the bike back to stock setting including fork/clamp placement and set the compresion and rebound settings to comfort settings per manual, get a low seat form seat concepts and put some different tires on it for now and just deal with bailing off the bike until I can afford a $G on suspension work.

Going to try a 90/90-21 S-12 for the front and a 110/100-18 xcms "Trying something new" for the rear and see what happens. I want to try something other than a fat truck tire in the rear to see how the bike will handle on tight soft to rocky trails.

Thank you guys for the help!

[SteveO]

Originally Posted by E-Ticket2

Forget revalving for now ....

Have you guys re-sprung your bikes for your weight?
You need to be using the correct spring rates -- BEFORE -- you do anything else.

Best of luck! E-Ticket

I ditched the stock rear spring for a Progressive Race Tech. Now that I have the progressive, the Sag can be set correctly for my fat but. Plus, when i load up the bike with gear for camping, I have confidence the progressive spring can handle the weight.... Very happy with this setup.

[FZcruzer]

SteveO,
Did you re-valve also or just a spring change? What is your weight with your gear on if ya don't mind telling.

Rob,

[SteveO]

Originally Posted by FZcruzer

SteveO,
Did you re-valve also or just a spring change? What is your weight with your gear on if ya don't mind telling.

Rob,

Yeah, I had a guy here in ABQ revalve the rear shock as well. I reason I "had" to do the whole project was because of KTM's POS plastic retaining ring. I screwed up my ring while adjusting the shock pre-load. So, I took it in to have it all done. In order to replace the plastic locking ring, the shock has to come apart. So, while it's apart, why not revalve it too. I can't recall what the valving was, but I know the bladder was changed to Race-Tech grade, instead of the plastic badder that is provided by KTM.

With gear I was weighing in around 220lbs. I'm trying to knock off a few pounds so that I can bring the sag down and lower the bike.....but, as with age, everything seems to get harder to do....

[YAHBO]

Originally Posted by team ftb

If anyone wants to unload a 13L Hardparts tank, or an Acerbis drop me a PM please.

Email sent.

[Bengt Phorks]

Originally Posted by Enduro Outlaw

Thanks for taking the time to hear my rant guys. The springs should be okish.. I'm 190 all geared up.. with water so my ride sage is 110-115 with the forks 23mm up in the clamps. I'm gonna have to save some money and take the suspension and have it cut down and setup. It's so agrivating when you can't push the bike to your full ability and everytime you get off balance not being able to put a foot down so your only option is to get your leg out of the way and drop the bike. OOOPS we're leaning down hill again.. time to jump off and drop the bike.. and repeat I'm gonna need knee sugury if this keeps up.

One thing at a time.. I'm just trying to get some of this wash out under control. I have a flat area I can do 8's. I'll put the bike back in giraffe mode and start over.

I guess I could try a fater front tire.. 90/90-21 S-12.. I hear great things about them.. I know this will not fix the issue but hell.. I'd settle for a bandage right now.

Maybe you went the wrong way by raising the fork tubes. It decreases the rake and trail which makes the front want to slide out. Think about mountain biking in the sand, its very hard to keep the bike going in a straight line without the front washing out. By lowering the fork tubes you increase the rake and trail which makes the bike more stable and stops the front end from skittering around and breaking traction.
Here is my setup. I weigh 250+ with gear. The fork tubes raised 8 mm in the triple clamps and I am using the the stock springs (4.2)
I have a 8.4 spring on the rear with 4.5 inches of sag and the rebound setting is 2 clicks harder than the comfort setting. When the bike was new the 7.6 spring felt too stiff and as it broke in I went to a 8.0 then to the 8.4. I took about 50 hours before the suspension settled in.
Tire selection goes from the Metzler Enduro Extreme to Dunlop 606's. Right now I am running a Pirelli Scorpion on the front. All the knobs on the edges have broke off but it doesn't seem to make any difference.

The bike is so stable I can darn near drag the handlebar in a corner while waving at the girls.

[Bengt Phorks]

Originally Posted by SteveO

Yeah, I had a guy here in ABQ revalve the rear shock as well. I reason I "had" to do the whole project was because of KTM's POS plastic retaining ring. I screwed up my ring while adjusting the shock pre-load. So, I took it in to have it all done. In order to replace the plastic locking ring, the shock has to come apart. So, while it's apart, why not revalve it too. I can't recall what the valving was, but I know the bladder was changed to Race-Tech grade, instead of the plastic badder that is provided by KTM.

With gear I was weighing in around 220lbs. I'm trying to knock off a few pounds so that I can bring the sag down and lower the bike.....but, as with age, everything seems to get harder to do....

On my shock the retainer unscrews right off the end of the shock without any problem. (2012 500 EXC)
Release preload ,remove spring, unscrew retaining ring.