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Old 03-31-2012, 03:42 PM   #811
jesusgatos
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Huh. Think the 500's are a lot better looking than the '08-11 bikes, but would say the opposite about the 3.4 gallon tanks that Acerbis makes for each of those bikes.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:14 PM   #812
Lulu7404
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which loctite where?

I finally got the 14 c/s from my dealer yesterday and am going to put it on tonight. I have red and blue loctite. I have read on different threads about bikes needing the splines and the nut loctited. Of the people that have changed out the c/s did you use blue on the splines and red on the nut or none on the splines and blue in the nut? First time to change out a c/s so I just don't want to have it come off, or not be able to get it off again if I want to go to 13 or back to 15 later.

Thanks
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:43 PM   #813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lulu7404 View Post
I finally got the 14 c/s from my dealer yesterday and am going to put it on tonight. I have red and blue loctite. I have read on different threads about bikes needing the splines and the nut loctited. Of the people that have changed out the c/s did you use blue on the splines and red on the nut or none on the splines and blue in the nut? First time to change out a c/s so I just don't want to have it come off, or not be able to get it off again if I want to go to 13 or back to 15 later.

Thanks
No red. Use blue for the countershaft nut. Be sure to reinstall the lock washer correctly and you'll be fine.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:54 AM   #814
Colemanfu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesusgatos View Post
Huh. Think the 500's are a lot better looking than the '08-11 bikes, but would say the opposite about the 3.4 gallon tanks that Acerbis makes for each of those bikes.
I don't have a 500 yet but one is on the way. I want to replace my 99 640e and just sold my Vmax - a big step in the process. Now I just need to move the LC4.Perhaps trade it in if the #'s work.

I dig a more basic KTM look - what's with all the stickers?



And the white tank !

Do they make some black plastics?
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:17 PM   #815
Lulu7404
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flame out!!!!!!

So I went out to a little place today called Northwest OHV park, run by the city of Bridgeport, TX. Decent little place, some 25 or so miles of trails, some rock gardens, jumps, open areas. A lot of jeeps, few quads and only one other kid on a little 2 stroke.
So I end up in one of these rock gardens by way of a decent down hill and the bike decides to take a dirt nap. Not a hard get off. I get up, turn it off (still running) and pick it up. Won't start without throttle open some. Dies EVERY time I left off on the gas for the next 30-40 minutes. Ok past just opened, but slow down and I have to keep the clutch and revs going.
I did the air injector removal last night before the trip but didn't get to the canister removal. Does this sound like the typical can flooded with fuel after dirt nap that will be resolved with desmog?
I plan on doing it anyway, but damn was it frustrating to push it up a rock garden.
Also, changed cs to 14 but still have the 45 rear. It was very "on/off" with the throttle response at slow speeds. Still had to use a bit of clutch. Do I need to go full bore 14/48 or 13/50 so smooth it out or will the desmog help smooth things a bit... my wife was already asking me if I meant for the front wheel to go up as much as it did?! Ummm, yea. So I can't imagine how lofty it would be with shorter gearing. I just want it a bit smoother.
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:19 PM   #816
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clutch lever

On another note. After the dirt nap (right side), I was stopped for a bit and noticed the the clutch lever, when pushed out with my hand, would go all the way to the stock hand guards. I hadn't noticed this before the nap and was just wondering if everyone else's clutch lever is very easily pushed away from the grip to the hand guard... It feels like something broke, but I cannot see anything broken or loose.

Thx
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:40 PM   #817
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Sumo!!!

On a third note. My wife's CRF230M came with 17" wheel set up. It is a little hoot commuting to work on it, all though very small physically for me to ride. I was wondering if anyone had tried a SUMO set up on the 500 yet? The hard parts catalog has a few options. Entry to street and a bit more advanced and then a full on race version with huge rotor and 6 pot calipers etc.
I had considered just getting some distanzias in the 21/18 sizes, but changing tires is just a pain in the ass, that often.
I found a link somewhere to some people using the cast tubeless rims for the CBR250R little ninja with a brake caliper relocation bracket on some ktms.
The ktm parts are $$$ about $1500 and up to $2000+ I think. I just want some 17" rims... suggestions?
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:07 AM   #818
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Fuel in your smog canister from a tip over or over fueling will cause a flame out. Get rid of that thing, check your fuel filters, don't use Cheveron gas. Did you get remapped at your dealer for the XC-W mapping? You might have to sign a waiver saying that it is off road only, but it's an improvement over stock. My seat of the pants was improvement value... (SOPIV ?)

1. exaust tip screen 25%
2. desmog 75%
3. remapping 10%
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Total improvement: 110%
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Old 04-02-2012, 10:20 AM   #819
heetseeker
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Oil change

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geek View Post
When you change your oil there are 3 plugs you pull. The first is the magnetic drain plug and the next two are screens (one is next to the drain plug (which is on the left side of the motor) and has that long screen inside. The other is from the bottom. You don't change the screens, you just clean them (I blast mine with carb cleaner).

All 3 plugs use a 13mm wrench/socket. DO NOT remove the allen key from the bottom of the motor that looks like a drain plug (it is not).




after you drain all of those, you then pull the oil filter and let the oil drain from its reservoir.

The oil filter looks like this:


You then lay the bike on its side, half fill the oil filter's reservoir with oil, fill the oil filter with oil and insert it and button it up.. then pick the bike back up.



then fill the rest of the oil.

FWIW.. after draining I put exactly 1.5 liters in and was @ exactly the half way on the site glass. I started at 1300ml and went up 50ml at a time seeing how much the bike actually wanted (on most bikes there is usually some left in the motor so you need to be careful to not overfill - for example on my 950, you put 3 litres in even though it holds 3.5 and then warm the bike and then fill as needed)... but this bike took all 1.5 liters.

Hope this helps

Just a little bit more on the oil change for reference:

KTM filter vs Tusk . Minor difference in detent portion of filter. Won't change performance in any way. The KTM kit came with a crush washer and o-ring.



KTM on Right, Tusk on Left




Where it goes...


A better shot...


The owners manual said to position the bike on it's Right side, add oil to the filter housing and soak the filter prior to install. Here's what I did. "Honey, where's the ottoman for the chair?"
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:10 PM   #820
Florida Lime
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heetseeker View Post
.... don't use Cheveron gas.
Why no Chevron ?
Chevron (with Techron) is usually one of the gas brands most people recommend.
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:39 PM   #821
heetseeker
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chevron

My dealer and his mechanic, who both race, are 100% against use of this fuel. I was told that they have more problems with bikes that run this brand than any other. It was one of those, "I told ya so" in advance conversations.... I don't want to start a gas war thread, but he uses ARCO or other high octane fuels and stays away from small mini-mart types. He was pretty insistant on it. I'm running a Golan filter inline and use a tank sock filter too so I'm hoping it's just a particulate issue...
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:47 PM   #822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lulu7404 View Post
On a third note. My wife's CRF230M came with 17" wheel set up. It is a little hoot commuting to work on it, all though very small physically for me to ride. I was wondering if anyone had tried a SUMO set up on the 500 yet? The hard parts catalog has a few options. Entry to street and a bit more advanced and then a full on race version with huge rotor and 6 pot calipers etc.
I had considered just getting some distanzias in the 21/18 sizes, but changing tires is just a pain in the ass, that often.
I found a link somewhere to some people using the cast tubeless rims for the CBR250R little ninja with a brake caliper relocation bracket on some ktms.
The ktm parts are $$$ about $1500 and up to $2000+ I think. I just want some 17" rims... suggestions?
THe best deal I have found so far is a set of Warp 9 wheel set- comes with front and rear rotors and sprocket. RAD also will build you a nice wheel set too, tho for more money- they even have a nice looking cush rear hub available( they are actually manufactured in USA) My new 500EXC wont get to me till the end of this month so Im doing all my shopping now.
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:59 PM   #823
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Thread index

The thread index is posted in a new thread, and up for review with GB. Once reviewed, he will place the link as a sticky in 'THUMPERS'. We can continue to post anything and everything here, but if you want me to link a good thread to the index just PM me and i'll add it.
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heetseeker screwed with this post 04-02-2012 at 01:01 PM Reason: i'm fricken hungry
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Old 04-02-2012, 01:32 PM   #824
Ridetosea
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I have the Warp 9's on my 500 EXC. I would post a picture but just wasted 3 hours of my life trying to figure out how. I put a search in on how to post pictures as I have noted it but not read it in the past. The search page came up empty. I guess I need help. I wanted the option to switch from single track knobbies to paved road and gravel capable DS rubber. I plan on ridding the WABDR in Aug. I jumped at the price of the warp 9's but found that this kind of rubber is very limited in 17" wheels. I would recommend buying another set of KTM wheels and open yourself to a wide variety of tire choices. I have not had it out on a gravel road yet, it rains a lot in WA, but they ride well on the paved commute to work. I did have to add a rare earth magnet ( 64-1895 at radio shack) to the rotor so the speedo will work. I also reset the wheel size to 1860 so that it is more accurate. I also had to cut the white plastic fork protectors to allow for the 120/70 17 tire. So now I have a gravel friendly semi SUMO option in about an hour by swapping wheels and relocating the front caliper. I am sure I will get faster at swapping in time...Oh, also put on a 44 tooth rear sprocket. I run the very popular 14/48 as raved about on here. I have the stock 45 tooth sitting it the pile of parts I have changed, so the 44 gives me one more gearing option. So far I like it. Little geek help and I will post the pictures.
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Old 04-02-2012, 02:35 PM   #825
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Warp 9's



I Guess I'm not as dumb as I look I am? Figured out the pic posting. lol
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