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Old 11-03-2014, 01:39 PM   #1
pax maac OP
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Cracked valve cover

So I noticed oil all over my left valve cover and saw this




I said to myself, is that a crack? After cooling and removal I found this









And after consulting with a mechanic friend I checked the cylinder head stud and saw this





It looks like the stud is sticking out just a touch too far and upon tightening the cover it dug it and managed to create this fissure.

First off how did this happen and second how do I fix it. I'm gonna replace the cracked cover because I don't feel I would trust a repair job, but how did the stud seem to magically get longer at some point and dig into the cover?

Edit: are the pictures working? Here are the imgur links http://imgur.com/EkxTrRN http://imgur.com/4uKJfiJ
http://imgur.com/hLl2zIb

pax maac screwed with this post 11-03-2014 at 04:17 PM
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Old 11-03-2014, 01:59 PM   #2
def
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So, is the stud loose when you put a wrench to it? Has anybody done any work inside the OHV cover? Your valve adjuster looks normal.

Has the OHV cover been distorted in any way? Maybe a tipover?

The photo shows what might be some rounding on the nut on that stud, as if a wrench had been on it?
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:05 PM   #3
nwcycle
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Maybe//......

If you do not replace the rubber cones on the valve cover bolts, they get collapsed and no more room to seal, hence you are forcing the valve cover lower on the studs?
And or the valve cover gasket itself?
Also you can just J B Weld the inside of the cover to seal it

nwcycle screwed with this post 11-03-2014 at 02:50 PM
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:10 PM   #4
Bucket1960
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OUCH
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:17 PM   #5
def
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nwcycle View Post
If you do not replace the rubber cones on the valve cover bolts, they get collapsed and no more room to seal, hence you are forcing the valve cover lower on the studs? How is that possible?
And or the valve cover gasket itself?
Also you can just J B Weld the inside of the cover to seal it
.
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:32 PM   #6
pax maac OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
So, is the stud loose when you put a wrench to it? Has anybody done any work inside the OHV cover? Your valve adjuster looks normal.

Has the OHV cover been distorted in any way? Maybe a tipover?

The photo shows what might be some rounding on the nut on that stud, as if a wrench had been on it?
The stud doesnt seem loose. But I agree that the end is distorted and it obviously dug into the cover. I hasn't fallen over to my knowledge.

I'm worried that If I just slap a new cover on there the stud will do the a same thing. Are the studs adjustable?
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:40 PM   #7
Gruesome
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You should really fix those picture links. I.e. host the pics somewhere (google picasaweb?) that allows you to link to resized versions.

I think somebody tried to loosen the nut on the stud (to adjust rocker end play, maybe?), and instead of turning the nut on the stud, turned the nut together with the stud and unscrewed the stud a bit. That's why it is now sticking out. Count the number of visible threads, and compare to your other studs.

Here is a pic (incidentally, resized from picasaweb...) that shows only two blurry threads visible on my bike:
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Old 11-03-2014, 02:47 PM   #8
nwcycle
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Hmmmmm

I also agree,, What he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Makes sense.....
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Old 11-03-2014, 04:38 PM   #9
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If the stud hasn't (been) backed out I would grind a bit off the end with a Dremel. Just be sure to seal up everything except the stud end to keep filings out of the engine. Also, replace the cover, don't JB weld it.
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Old 11-03-2014, 04:50 PM   #10
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How about loosening the stud nut, double nut it and see if it drives deeper into the case. If it does good, if not you have to think about the possibility it is stripped or pulled. After you have bottomed the stud (if possible) apply the proper torque on the nut . This all precludes the possibility the stud is stripped. You should find this out anyway though. I honestly believe a little smear of JB weld on the inside of the cover after it is de greased will keep any leaks in check. I would take a 1/16" drill (1.5mm) and drill a hole in each end of the crack first to keep it from moving. Some of the epoxy can fill those holes. Carefully finished on the outside no one will see it. But if you get a new cover, save the old one for the next camp out campfire. Wow. I'm with you for a new cover, I can't stand seeing things that remind me of the problem.
You may need to address the sideways play of the rocker arm if you loosen this nut. That is another procedure (and too little or no clearance is worse than too much so go carefully).
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Old 11-03-2014, 05:18 PM   #11
pax maac OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beecher Snipes View Post
How about loosening the stud nut, double nut it and see if it drives deeper into the case. If it does good, if not you have to think about the possibility it is stripped or pulled. After you have bottomed the stud (if possible) apply the proper torque on the nut . This all precludes the possibility the stud is stripped. You should find this out anyway though. I honestly believe a little smear of JB weld on the inside of the cover after it is de greased will keep any leaks in check. I would take a 1/16" drill (1.5mm) and drill a hole in each end of the crack first to keep it from moving. Some of the epoxy can fill those holes. Carefully finished on the outside no one will see it. But if you get a new cover, save the old one for the next camp out campfire. Wow. I'm with you for a new cover, I can't stand seeing things that remind me of the problem.
You may need to address the sideways play of the rocker arm if you loosen this nut. That is another procedure (and too little or no clearance is worse than too much so go carefully).
I'll try the double nut thing. I noticed that it didn't seem properly torqued when I loosened it earlier today, it was very easy to unscrew. The torque for those bolts I believe is 14 footpounds, plus 2 90 degree tightenings and it definitely wasn't that tight. All the others were though.

As for JB welding it, I may do that for fun but I'm definitely buying a replacement cover and I'll keep the JB welded one as a spare or turn it into an ashtray or something. My mechanic friend recommended eating my corn flakes out of it.
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Old 11-03-2014, 05:29 PM   #12
bemiiten
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Careful on the re-torque. When you start the second 90, If it feels too tight before you go the full 90, just stop and leave it. Takes a experienced hand.
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Old 11-03-2014, 05:30 PM   #13
pax maac OP
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Does anybody know if I can use a valve cover from any R1100? Can it be from an RT, R, RS, S or GS? And what about an 1150 valve cover? Will those fit too? Or 850's also? As long as it's single spark.

Thanks
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Old 11-03-2014, 08:37 PM   #14
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pax maac View Post
Does anybody know if I can use a valve cover from any R1100? Can it be from an RT, R, RS, S or GS? And what about an 1150 valve cover? Will those fit too? Or 850's also? As long as it's single spark.

Thanks
So long as it is a single spark, looks the same, it will work.

Definitely check to make sure the stud has not stripped the threads or backed out.
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Old 11-04-2014, 06:11 AM   #15
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cracked valve cover

The thing that really sucks is you don't have a good crash story to go with a damaged valve cover. Richard.
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