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Old 04-29-2011, 06:05 AM   #16
BMWRich
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Dude Excellant...

Your flange puller looks like my "balancer adapter"(on the right)
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Old 04-29-2011, 06:12 AM   #17
gec343
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Admirable, to say the least!!!
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Old 04-29-2011, 08:17 AM   #18
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Wow! Super write up..

..and a great tutorial, thanks.

Bill in OR
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:05 PM   #19
ElGringo OP
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Update

Thanks everyone. Advrider has provided me with so much information, I feel obliged to share whatever info I can. Sharing what we've all learned is what makes this site so awesome.


UPDATE:

I just recalled this important point last night.

At first glance the new crown wheel needle bearing looked like it could be installed flipped any way. However, this is not the case. There is a definite front and back to it. One side of the bearing sleeve is shallower than the other. This allows gear oil to penetrate the bearing easier. This side of the bearing should be installed toward the inside the housing where all the gear oil is for improved lubrication. There is no mention of this in the shop manual, and we almost missed it. Sorry no pics, but is pretty obvious when you look at it.

Ill add this to the OP.

Safe travels.
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:42 PM   #20
vagueout
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ElGringo, top marks to you, my main reason to peruse these forums is to gain tech knowledge on these machines. Yours is the first how to i have ever seen on the 1200 final drive. The bmw approach is to fit a NEW final drive, seemingly no repair scheme for the 1200, one of the main reasons that prevents me from going to a 1200 over my 1150. Obviously most of us dont have the method or means to fabricate the pile of fixtures required, but you have proven it can be done. As already suggested by another poster will you consider making and selling the tooling? should be a few takers around the planet. In the meantime i'll continue with my self repairable 1150, but thanks again for a mighty write up, you have broken new ground.
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:55 PM   #21
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just simple.....
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Old 04-29-2011, 10:41 PM   #22
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Dood,

That was a fanfuckintastic tutorial for the dreaded FD failure.

I have the same luxury as yourself with access to a machine shop and with your write up and I almost dare my FD takes a shit on me now. Just kidding!!!!

Thanks for taking the time do this, your excellent work will serve as reference for many people like myself.

Keep us posted on how your work is holding up.
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Old 05-02-2011, 12:01 PM   #23
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I'm glad I found this and that you took the time to post it. Thanks.

I'm in the middle of tearing down my final drive right now it's uncanny how similar your experience (and attitude) are to mine. I like your idea for the fixture and will add it to mine. I'm going to be changing by pinion bearings though and may end up getting an adapter (yeah, like the BMW special tool) made so I can use a slide hammer/puller to pull the bevel pinion shaft out. I've read of someone on a different post using a soft drift to hammer the shaft out but this looks a little too risky for my liking. The chance of damaging the case or threads that hold the pinion sleeve seems likely.
(Unfortunately, the guy making special tools and stuff for me is only my friend as long as I'm paying.)

Anybody have a better idea?

This shows the end of the pinion shaft. Not a lot of room here.
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Old 05-02-2011, 05:06 PM   #24
JimVonBaden
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Quite honestly, I wouldn't hesitate to drift the bearing out, making sure to balance the bearing movement as much as possible. I've done this dozens of times on wheel bearings.

I would also use the old bearing to tap the new one back in. Appropriate heat/cold of the parts will help as well.

Jim
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Old 05-02-2011, 06:18 PM   #25
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Thanks Jim.
It's the shaft I'm worried about. I don't want it to come off center on the way out. There isn't a lot of room between the bearing and these threads. The bevel gear is also very close to the housing.
Maybe I'm being a chicken.
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Old 05-02-2011, 06:20 PM   #26
Sleeper
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These threads for the sleeve are what I'm a little worried about.
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:57 PM   #27
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I hear you Sleeper. Id be a bit sketched out too about accidentally hitting those threads. But without that tool, JVB's drift seems to be the best call. Perhaps the threads can be covered with something. Don't know.

Nice to see there's interested in the fixture. But realistically it would be too time consuming to make them on a case by case basis. It would have to be mass produced to make it even remotely affordable. Plus, hanging out with friends, drinking beers and building stuff is a great time, but once you've turned it in to a job.... well no fun.

So far the final drive seems to be as good as new, but if it does suddenly take a dive, Ill let you all know. It'll make for a good laugh.

Thanks and safe travels.
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Old 05-04-2011, 06:17 PM   #28
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Great How To ...

Thanks, I don't have a FD problem but enjoyed reading your info. You forgot to mention the brand of beer you were drinking though - judging by the report it was probably homemade hootch
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Old 05-05-2011, 05:06 AM   #29
Henry James
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Final Drive Report

Nice writeup. Like someone said, not something your are going to fix on the side of the road.
HJ
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Old 05-05-2011, 05:46 AM   #30
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Great write-up! Another reason why even having a small hobbyist lathe/mill in your shop can be a great addition. At first the 2500$ worth of equipment doesn't seem worth it, but over the years as you make all your own speciality tools and drifts for jobs, it starts to balance out!

What I don't understand is why they decided to change the final drive to the point where its nearly impossible to fix it without all the tools. Clearly the failure still exists.
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