P r o j e c t "s"

[Kai Ju]

Originally Posted by villageidiot

lookin real real good.

+1

That black tank and seat look really sharp. Any thoughts on pinstripes ?
What tank badges are you tinking ?

[TINK]

Another shot from today. Well. I made my goal of having a "roller" by the end of my vacation break. It's back to work tomorrow, and then a trip to Seattle (Jan 10-13) to be with my mom on her 91 birthday. Bike is 90% there. Just need to finish up the brake systems, repair and reconnect some electrical wiring and a bunch of odds and ends. Center stand repair is next on the list, until then I'm using jack stands under the cylinder heads to prop it up. Side stand requires the left exhaust pipe to clamp to so it will be last to go on. Hope to have her running by the end of January, but with work, home, family responsibilities my time line could slip a bit. It's been a fun project and I can't wait to ride her. Stay tuned... TINK

[TINK]

Originally Posted by Kai Ju

+1

That black tank and seat look really sharp. Any thoughts on pinstripes ?
What tank badges are you tinking ?

Single gold pin stripe, Irv Seaver is using this guy > http://vandemon.com/

Bought the standard BMW badges, just need to stick them on.

[TINK]

Seems like I've owned this bike before, let' s see... black paint, chrome seat rail... why YES, it's my 1992 Nighthawk all over again.
Loved this bike, put 78K on her, should have kept her... and the 1965 XLCH... and the 1969 Bonneville... and the `92 VFR... and the ______



TINK

[squish]

Originally Posted by Kai Ju

+1

That black tank and seat look really sharp. Any thoughts on pinstripes ?
What tank badges are you tinking ?

Tinking... I think you just coined a new term as it related to Tink.

Good looking roller tink, looking forward to seeing this one in the flesh. I really like the Mike Traynor plate.

[TINK]

Center stand has been repaired and installed!



Let's rewind... here's the center stand with "dragging" damage.



If you ever need a fabricator and are in the Orange County area check out Jim Shirley. He does great work and is very reasonable


Now back to our show,,, Jim's hand work






Old hardware... not good


TINK

[TINK]

Rear brakes are installed. Still need to finish the master cylinder rebuild.





TINK

[TINK]

Found this in a box with the throttle parts...
Okay sports fans, what is it?





TINK

[squish]

Originally Posted by TINK

Found this in a box with the throttle parts...
Okay sports fans, what is it?



TINK

Switch gear wedgecock, goes between bar and switch gear, cut out is for screw clearance.

[disston]

The most often missing part on an Airhead. When the switch gear is removed for any reason they fall if you are not ready to catch them and are never seen again. When the switch gear is put back on with out this part it will then not stay in place and rotates about the handlebar in use. It seems to just be too loose so people tighten the holding screw more and more, eventually causing other problems.

[TINK]

You are correct, it's #13 and it goes in the left (clutch) side not the throttle side.
Fortunately only one is required, otherwise I would have to make one per Snowbum's pdf > http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/Airhea...edge-Perch.pdf
Thanks Squish and distton, I never would have guessed.



TINK

[TINK]

I did some more reaserch http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/perch/index.htm and it looks like I do need two wedges, one on each side. Checked the bike this morning and no wedge in either side, just the one I have on the bench. Ordered a used wedge off ebay for $14, pricey, but worth it to me for the piece of mind that the controls are not going to auto-rotate on me one day as I'm riding down the road. The good thing is that I'm using proper 22mm bars and not 7/8" - C20: Chrome Flanders BMW R90S Bar (Magura style 478-46300).

TINK

[benthic]

Originally Posted by TINK

I did some more reaserch http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/perch/index.htm and it looks like I do need two wedges, one on each side. Checked the bike this morning and no wedge in either side, just the one I have on the bench. Ordered a used wedge off ebay for $14, pricey, but worth it to me for the piece of mind that the controls are not going to auto-rotate on me one day as I'm riding down the road. The good thing is that I'm using proper 22mm bars and not 7/8" - C20: Chrome Flanders BMW R90S Bar (Magura style 478-46300).

TINK

you know, i'm not convinced you need those wedges. my controls clamp on the 22mm bars pretty damn tightly. Also, they should be something a person could make very easily. If i ever lose the ones I have I'll definitely try that..

great build!

[TINK]

Originally Posted by benthic

you know, i'm not convinced you need those wedges. my controls clamp on the 22mm bars pretty damn tightly. Also, they should be something a person could make very easily. If i ever lose the ones I have I'll definitely try that..

great build!

You could be right, benthic. While I may not need them I'm still amazed that I can still find these for a 35 year old bike. Until I asked the question, I had no idea my perchs were not secured correctly. But that's BMW for you, always over engineering.

TINK

[Les_Garten]

Originally Posted by TINK

You could be right, benthic. While I may not need them I'm still amazed that I can still find these for a 35 year old bike. Until I asked the question, I had no idea my perchs were not secured correctly. But that's BMW for you, always over engineering.

TINK

I would get them.

If your controls are designed for that spacer, then it seems that being tightened without it could cause vibration fatigue and failure over time, if not outright when you first tighten them. At that point, you would think the perches cheap. The Germans are masters at this type of complexity, which means you kinda got to pay attention to them.