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Old 02-17-2014, 07:56 AM   #1906
Pete640
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Originally Posted by MakS View Post



our fresh product
Show us the underside???
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:41 AM   #1907
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MakS, and mounting points?
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Old 02-18-2014, 11:18 AM   #1908
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Show us the underside???





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Old 02-18-2014, 01:24 PM   #1909
SoMinded
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Got this road book unit from a friend.. he don't want to use it on his Husqvarna..
When its free its always nice.. But will need an upgrade to electric motor, controls and light.

maybe its a good model to make new units, because i have al machines to make it if i want.

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Old 02-19-2014, 04:34 AM   #1910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakS View Post
our fresh product
Pm me Maks!!! :)

Paul Jr
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:56 AM   #1911
Gros Buck
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Originally Posted by 640 Armageddon View Post
Hey Dave ,

Have you used Permatex Large Diameter thread lock at all?

I have found that it is best to leave it unused for two-three days so that it cures. Otherwise I had the exact same problems with some setups. The Permatex red, if used on small diameter bolts (they say it is for >M20), it will be very difficult or impossible to unscrew. Most of the time if I need to take anything apart in such small size bolts, I end up breaking the bolt while trying to unscrew it. Then replace it with a fresh one
Need to clarify something here ... If it is what I think this thread locker is incompatible with anything else then Iron based alloy, like steel. It is not compatible with a combination of zinc plated or galvanized bolts, aluminium, stainless steel and bronze.

But if you use "black" steel bolts on any type of metal, it will work. Or any alloy of bolt on black steel plate. I.e. Stainless Steel bolts in Steel plate will work, or "black" bolt in Aluminium will work. But stainless steel bolts in Aluminium (or anything else than black steel) will fail.

You need 243 (blue,medium) and 263 (red, strong) products from Loctite. They are compatible with most metals. Which is not the case with 242 (blue,medium) and 262 (red, strong) products, again from Loctite. 242 and 262 requires an appropriate (i.e. not just anyone) activator to work on anything else then slightly rusted steel. 242 and 262 products still exist because they catalyse In few hours. 243 and 263 require one day. It's the absence of air, and presence of free Iron that catalyse most commercial threadlockers and make it work.

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Old 02-19-2014, 05:09 AM   #1912
640 Armageddon
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Hi Paul,

That is not correct, at least for the Permatex product. It will actually bond to both active and inactive metals. It is the time it takes it to cure that changes. That is why I commented above on that. If you do not leave it to cure, it just does not work. I have to get the manual I got from Permatex. They sell a primer for the Inactive metals and in general the primer will shorten the cure time. (5 minuter with primer, 20 minutes or sth like that without). Full cure in 24 hours if I remember correctly.

Whatever I assemble, if it is an assembly like the roadbook, it stays for a couple of days till the parts pass the tests so that everything cures before it goes on a bike. If it is a tower, I try to use Nordlocks as I said everywhere and Nylocks wherever possible.

Good info though, a lot of people just go and ask for a thread lock without too much info...

EDIT: No use in plastics and thermoplastics as stated before! Just to make sure...
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640 Armageddon screwed with this post 02-19-2014 at 05:57 AM
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Old 02-23-2014, 02:16 PM   #1913
Hagenblad
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Low front fender question:
I have a original carbon fibre ktm rallye, where can I buy those aluminium washers?
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Old 02-23-2014, 10:54 PM   #1914
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IF you mean these...



and your a Euro

Meca systems france..
this page..

http://www.mecasystem.fr/pr/1154/ktm...-boue-bas.html

and if in North America

Rally Management Services
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:58 AM   #1915
JMo (& piglet)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
IF you mean these...



and your a Euro

Meca systems france..
this page..

http://www.mecasystem.fr/pr/1154/ktm...-boue-bas.html

and if in North America

Rally Management Services
I think Hagenblad is referring to the actual RFR low fender (which the mould that MakS is presumably based on?) - I had something similar with my original JVO kit.

The Meca'system brackets above are to mount a KTM 'Adventure' fender to EXC etc. forks - a good (I would say better) and cost effective alternative, but a completely different mounting system to the RFR style fender.

I actually prefer the Meca'/Adventure fender set-up as it is secured in front of and behind the fork leg, rather than the RFR that just bolts around the base of each forkleg...

RFR style:


Meca'System/Adventure fender style:


Jx
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Old 02-25-2014, 09:42 AM   #1916
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Didnt know where to put this so I thought it wise to just post it here.

'Next Gen' (old buzz word) Tripmaster has arrived. Wireless sensor and satellite reception. Satellite as in primary or as back up. Works a treat and without the mouse too when you hook it up to your Garmin.



It has taken some effort but finally here, no more worries about snapped cables and it all links in with the 'plug and play' set up people are looking for these days. Use your enduro bike for small navigation events too without fussing about cables etc.



Tried and tested, so I have been told Will be trying these home soldered versions myself and am expecting machine soldered versions before end of March.



Been told that the sensor battery should last me 3 years and is replaceable. Will try and report back! So far, so good
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Old 02-25-2014, 12:11 PM   #1917
wrk2surf OP
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LINKY>>> http://www.rally-dash.com/RD/ed.shtml
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:08 PM   #1918
tehdutchie
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Originally Posted by wrk2surf View Post
Indeed.

Will keep you posted on my experiences. Some guys heading to Spain at the end of March using the set up. Will relay their experiences too.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:28 AM   #1919
sergeuk
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Fitted my HDB nav tower and tripple clamp with the help of other posts on this forum, I am pleased with the result, seems very solid
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:42 AM   #1920
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