Rallye navigation bracket photo thread

[theantipaul]

Michael, that's looking great! Simple and clean.

What fairing is that and you must have mounted it up to the frame, did you bolt it up or weld it?

Lets see more.

[crankshaft]

Originally Posted by wrk2surf

I know.. I knoow touratec schmuratec.. but its what I have for now.. MD is in the works.





fully adjustable up and down.. My riding partner Cevquit is a master!!
I will post more when it is apart and finished off with some cleaning up...

Looks great!

[Hayduke]

Paul, Looks like I'm going to miss the Wolfman Open House now. I'm super bummed. Have fun.

[wrk2surf]

Now that I have the bike together and shaking it down I notice I will have to do something with my front brake line .. I have the roadbook plate off but I see that at compression of the forks it will be banging into the plate when it is mounted...How are you rally guys running it.. I think I read or saw a picture of a longer line zip tied across the handle bars?

[lastplace]

Originally Posted by wrk2surf

Now that I have the bike together and shaking it down I notice I will have to do something with my front brake line .. I have the roadbook plate off but I see that at compression of the forks it will be banging into the plate when it is mounted...How are you rally guys running it.. I think I read or saw a picture of a longer line zip tied across the handle bars?

We run the original brake line down the right fork leg from top to bottom triple clamp, then across the bottom triple clamp to the left fork leg. Use p-clamps wherever you have a threaded hole to hold it tight in place above the bottom triple. Then the line should flex outward from the bottom triple to where it attaches to the fork slider or fork. Not so good in tight trees, but this is the correct setup for rally bikes with a lot of navigation equipment that could catch up the original brake line position.

fun fun
Charlie

[Yellow Pig]

here you can see where the brake line fexes between the low fender and the triple clamp.

[Seth S]

Update:

My F2R roadbook holder worked flawlessly during the safari rally. The cover kept dust and water out nicely and we had 0 problems with the drive system. There are a few bits I will relay back to the F2R boys that they may address in newer versions. The 2 main things are: The switch is currently hard wired into the road book so it cannot be replaced easily if it gets damaged on stage. The Rally Raid UK guys said they cut the wires and put a connector in and carry a spare switch. The 2nd small issue is that on the right side of the top cover there are 2 tabs with holes in them that slide over steel pins to retain that side of the cover. due to the excessive vibration in the event the aluminum deformed a small amount around the pins...so ill have to reinforce that spot in the future.

The rubber O ring that locks the left side of the lid on works well but can be a little hard toget on now and then. Had no issues with it breaking or getting hit. My team mates all liked the size of the scroll knobs as they are quite a bit bigger than those on the MD. Most people at the event were running MD's and several people had failures during the event and were forced to hand scroll.....statistically this is bound to happen.

All in all I give the F2R unit a thumbs up and recommend it to others. Its price allows you to buy two for almost the same cost as one MD and that way you have a full spare parts package.

[Seth S]

photo of my setup:

[Brodovitch]

Originally Posted by Seth S

Update:

My F2R roadbook holder worked flawlessly during the safari rally. The cover kept dust and water out nicely and we had 0 problems with the drive system. There are a few bits I will relay back to the F2R boys that they may address in newer versions. The 2 main things are: The switch is currently hard wired into the road book so it cannot be replaced easily if it gets damaged on stage. The Rally Raid UK guys said they cut the wires and put a connector in and carry a spare switch. The 2nd small issue is that on the right side of the top cover there are 2 tabs with holes in them that slide over steel pins to retain that side of the cover. due to the excessive vibration in the event the aluminum deformed a small amount around the pins...so ill have to reinforce that spot in the future.

The rubber O ring that locks the left side of the lid on works well but can be a little hard toget on now and then. Had no issues with it breaking or getting hit. My team mates all liked the size of the scroll knobs as they are quite a bit bigger than those on the MD. Most people at the event were running MD's and several people had failures during the event and were forced to hand scroll.....statistically this is bound to happen.

All in all I give the F2R unit a thumbs up and recommend it to others. Its price allows you to buy two for almost the same cost as one MD and that way you have a full spare parts package.

thanks for the report, I am waiting for my TT to die on me at some point, the F2R is top of my list for a replacement

[Seth S]

here is a good shot of the setup in action:

[TheDudeAbides]

Originally Posted by theantipaul

The piece that is driving my design are the lights,

Baja Designs 4" and 6" and Hella 90mm,



Seth mentioned a page or so ago that the BD Fuegos could be used in pod mode, they can! They're about perfect for what I want to do



With the lights finally nailed down I could move on to the rest of the assembly,





While riding over the last few weeks, I've been playing with where I want the roadbook mounted, I can't see squat with it down low while standing, but I don't want to sit every time I want to look at it, what are the real guys doing?



I'll be making it so that I can run the bike with the whole assembly removed and stock headlight or just the fairing/lights mounted to the forks. I'll start with a Voyager that'll be staying on for all configs, the rest will bolt on and off depending on what type of riding I'm doing.

Bump!

Nice, nice work Paul.

Any updates for us, any new pics?

Any chance you'd manufacture/market the fairing and light kit sans the roadbook stuff for us non rallye types who just want better lighting?

[windquest]

Originally Posted by theantipaul

I wanted to practice before welding a bracket onto my CRF so I used my guinea Pig. Problem is it has a near perfect powder coat job, so I've been putting it off. Tacked it in place, btw this took 3 trys placing it and breaking the weld to move it just a tad. It's actually harder then you think to get the whole assembly square with the world.



Pull off the bracket and weld it up



Then I've been meaning to weld a new stop in for USD forks, needed more then ever now so they don't whack the tower.



The tower in place,





The new cad design



Next the light mounts then the fairing.

Paul, you never cease to amaze me with your work, just when I thought i had the ultimate "highway dirt bikes" setup I stumble upon this thread...

Don't stop innovating, your work is brilliant!

Quick question on your bracket that you welded. I see that it is 2 pieces. Would it be easier to use a 1 piece bracket that has the same radius of curvature on the back as the headtube of the frame to make alligning easier?

[windquest]

Originally Posted by TheDudeAbides

Bump!

Nice, nice work Paul.

Any updates for us, any new pics?

Any chance you'd manufacture/market the fairing and light kit sans the roadbook stuff for us non rallye types who just want better lighting?

that's a great idea, Im sure many would want a bracket like that just for putting a big gps etc. on it...

[wrk2surf]

Originally Posted by theantipaul

Michael, that's looking great! Simple and clean.

What fairing is that and you must have mounted it up to the frame, did you bolt it up or weld it?

Lets see more.

The adventure frame has the mounts already welded on.. nice and straight! next go round of fitment and electric work I wll post a photo..

[drc42]

Finally got started on making use of the good info in this thread. I have been wanting to experiment with Rally mods on my DRZ. Since I ride this bike a lot it will give me good long term data on what works or not. Besides I just like building things

So far just have a bracket fabricated and bolted to the bike. Just a short section of DOM tubing cut in half with a 1/4" piece of steel welded to it. Was going to weld directly to the bike but mig welding crome-molly steel doesn't work so well. Bolts are at an angle so hopefully should be sturdy. Will loctite the bolts on final assembly.

Pics...

Step 1 was to cut off and grind down the steering lock that was in the way, never used it anyway. Filled the hole with some black RTV:



Fabricated bracket, note the slot cut in the side so you can still read the VIN stamped on the frame. I once had a bored US customs officer who wanted to see the VIN on a trip back from Canada once, figure I should make it visible.




Bolted to the bike, string is there to help line it up.




Next step is to fab up the aluminum support structure. Short term it will just hold the stock headlight, my aux LED lights, stock speedo and my GPS. If I decide I have been a good boy this year I will call up RMS and order an ICO and one of those F2R roadbooks for my christmas present to myself