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Old 05-17-2011, 04:50 PM   #91
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I dont think the wheels look bad at all. I'd PREFER great big truck tires, just havent found any screaming deals. Yet. I've decided that unless the price goes way down, theres just not enough rubber left on the tires to justify the rims, 'specialy with the one boogered like it is.

Todays progress! Played hookie from school today, fixed the mustang in the morning, then went the "Three Piggie Opera", then had lunch with my wife, then about 4 other things... Busy morning.

Finally got to head in to town to pick up some tools and parts!





Installed the new seat. Before:



after!



Still think they look okay... but time to come back off.



Yanked the grill off.



And bolted the engine to the stand. Not sure if I trust it yet. SUPPOSEDLY the engine wieghs 560 lbs. The stand is sposed to hold 750, but it sure seems small for that engine...





Anyone know anything about rust converter? Does it work? Should I bother?
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Old 05-17-2011, 05:11 PM   #92
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Yes, I *really* like those black rims as well. Those are cheap enough that if I found a really good deal on some rubber I'd consider doing that.

Got one other thing done today that I've been putting off for WAY to long- Changing the oil in my coveralls. Hope the washing machine can handle it.
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Old 05-17-2011, 05:26 PM   #93
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Mmmmm, nothing like a freshly-surfaced flywheel. Dowels?

You can prop up the hanging end of the motor with a piece of timber and a floor jack.

Just wash a load of white t-shirts afterward to clean out the drum


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Old 05-17-2011, 10:25 PM   #94
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Dowels?

I might be in trouble... The coveralls oil change didnt go so well.



On an unrelated topic- My coveralls are BLUE. Who knew!?

Spent the last hour searching for radiators. LMC- I think the cheapest one was just under $300. Next cheapest I could find was in the $150 range. FINALLY found one for $75 shipped from Shepherds auto. Fingers crossed... You get what you pay for. Thats the bad thing about buying a cheap truck- you never want to spend money on it cause every part you buy cost MORE THAN YOU PAID for the dang truck!
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:53 PM   #95
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Yes, I *really* like those black rims as well. Those are cheap enough that if I found a really good deal on some rubber I'd consider doing that.
tirerack.com probably has something you'd like in your price range. Then you'd have an excuse to get the Harbor Freight tire changer. Or, get a wheel and tire package super cheap. I got a set of steel wheels for my Camry for $46 each when I bought my snow tires.

Quote:
Got one other thing done today that I've been putting off for WAY to long- Changing the oil in my coveralls. Hope the washing machine can handle it.
Waterless hand cleaner works to lift stains. You could also swab the washer drum with it after doing the coveralls, then wash it down with dilute dish soap, then run an empty load on hot to clean it out. Just make sure the first thing you try to wash afterward is a load of jeans or something.
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Old 05-18-2011, 05:49 AM   #96
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Got one other thing done today that I've been putting off for WAY to long- Changing the oil in my coveralls. Hope the washing machine can handle it.
For future reference (and a happier wife), this is the kind of thing that laundromats were invented for. For the cost of $2 in quarters, you have marital bliss and no clean up to take care of.
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:20 AM   #97
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Dowels?
Oh, I guess there aren't any. Shoulder bolts maybe?




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Old 05-18-2011, 06:58 AM   #98
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Is your old radiator so bad that a radiator shop couldn't fix it? I've had better luck with a well-serviced original radiator than with any cheap replacement. Even if it needs a lot of work, the materials are so much better in an old radiator (heavy brass end caps, etc) that you end up with a better product at the end for the same (or usually much lower) price.
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:52 AM   #99
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Anyone know anything about rust converter? Does it work? Should I bother?
I've been trying different rust converters on some of the rusty crap I own. It requires multiple coats to penetrate the rust but it seems to be an okay quick and dirty treatment.
I've heard good things about this stuff, which I'll try at some point.
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-solutio...FQzNKgod6UBGEA
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:32 AM   #100
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And bolted the engine to the stand. Not sure if I trust it yet. SUPPOSEDLY the engine wieghs 560 lbs. The stand is sposed to hold 750, but it sure seems small for that engine...




I have that same engine stand and my Cherokee 4.0 I-6 crushes it. I put a block of wood under the front of the engine. Another fine Harbor Freight tool - but the price was right for a one time use.
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Old 05-19-2011, 01:16 AM   #101
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Thumb Good job on the repairs, im sure it will last you a loooong time!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkpunch View Post
Dowels?

I might be in trouble... The coveralls oil change didnt go so well.



On an unrelated topic- My coveralls are BLUE. Who knew!?

Spent the last hour searching for radiators. LMC- I think the cheapest one was just under $300. Next cheapest I could find was in the $150 range. FINALLY found one for $75 shipped from Shepherds auto. Fingers crossed... You get what you pay for. Thats the bad thing about buying a cheap truck- you never want to spend money on it cause every part you buy cost MORE THAN YOU PAID for the dang truck!

Not necessarily. My 92 Rodeo is only worth 300$ KBB. But I put in some $1600 into it knowing that it would outlast any other cheap car nowadays. So in a way you are paying more than its worth but if you had another car- well lets just say-- YES they are worth more and YES the parts to repair are ALOT. So your winning here .

My costs plus labor at my repair shop, something like:

$150 replace brakes plus new rotors.
$300 replace brakes (drum- yuck!) the brake cylander was leaking too, had that replaced.
$500 replaced timing chain. (You ever wonder why most cars nowadays have belts??)
$600 replace front axle plus boots. Was $300 but had to drop out differential to take it completely out.

Anyways I think your doing a good job, would like to do that stuff except the parents wouldn't like that too much!
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:05 PM   #102
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Nice truck!

I think the Dentsides were my favorite Ford, and that 300 is bulletproof.
You might be interested by this however:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/25...y-300-six.html

6.5 Chevy Turbo - the injection kit from a newer 300, injectors from a 302 and you are rolling ;)
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Old 05-19-2011, 05:27 PM   #103
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Spent the last hour searching for radiators. LMC- I think the cheapest one was just under $300. Next cheapest I could find was in the $150 range. FINALLY found one for $75 shipped from Shepherds auto. Fingers crossed... You get what you pay for. Thats the bad thing about buying a cheap truck- you never want to spend money on it cause every part you buy cost MORE THAN YOU PAID for the dang truck!
Take it to the local radiator sho and have it recored. Some they can do a double core, better than new.
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Old 05-19-2011, 06:25 PM   #104
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I've thought about doing the chev turbo. Havent been able to scrounge up a cheap useable turbo yet though. Think I could do the 6 carb conversion for a lot less than what I've seen turbos go for. Most likely it'll stay stock for now, although I'm considering either the chev rocker arm swap or a cam... No progress yesterday and likely none tonight. Hopefully I can spend some time on it on Saturday.

The radiator shop said my rad wasnt worth fixing. The cheapest they could find me was around $180.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:53 PM   #105
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Okay, I lied. Went out to tidy up the shop a little and got sidetracked...

Decided to trust the engine stand so I put the hoist away. While I was at it I popped the thermostat out and the water pump off and drained the rest of the coolant. The truck would NEVER warm up... unless I had the rad completely covered. I figured it had a bad t-stat, but it looks fine other than its about 35 degrees colder than the stock one! Water pump looks okay too, but they are cheap and its off, so I'll put a new one back on.




I had the engine rolled over on its side for a bit and you can see where the oil is leaking... Right where the dipstick goes into the oil pan. Too much gunk to see what the deal is there. Man, I wish my pressure washer parts would show up!

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dorkpunch screwed with this post 05-19-2011 at 08:59 PM
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