How do you check if the alternator is functioning properly.

[baloneyskin daddy]

Theres no way you have 13.6 dc at the battery with the ac results at the stator that you report. You have the tester at the wrong setting or something else.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by =o&o>

Just to clarify: Is it correct that the 50-70 volts AC would only be if the stator is unplugged from the Rectifier/Regulator, but the readings should be around 13vac if still plugged into the R/R?

The relevancy of the test is with the stator unplugged....ie disconnected from the R/R. It is irrelevant to check the ac voltage with it plugged in to the R/R, as the regulation is done by shunting, and thus can affect the voltage rendering the results inconclusive.

[kelsow]

Update.

Battery full charged via tender reads 12.74 v
Revved to 3-4000, 13.4 and doesn't get any higher.

3 pronged plug unplugged I'm getting 26-27-27 from the 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 pins.
At 3000rpm I get 50-57 and 58 from the 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 pins.

Also "One at a time take each of the ac phases ohm it to ground..... All three wires should be open....ie no continuity"

That is correct, I get no continuity going to a checked ground.

Am I good?

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by kelsow

Update.

Battery full charged via tender reads 12.74 v
Revved to 3-4000, 13.4 and doesn't get any higher.

3 pronged plug unplugged I'm getting 26-27-27 from the 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 pins.
At 3000rpm I get 50-57 and 58 from the 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 pins.

Also "One at a time take each of the ac phases ohm it to ground..... All three wires should be open....ie no continuity"

That is correct, I get no continuity going to a checked ground.

Am I good?

Cautiously ....Yes. One more test.... But expect it to be good as well..... Ohm between the three wires of the stator, while disconnected. Should be about 0.5 ohms. if you see above 5 ohms you have a wire moving towards open. You are checking that the insulation have not cooked off. But with the very similar results you have between the ac volts....I'd expect it to be good. Thee 12.74 to 13.4 volts are a bit low, where I saw 13.8 on mine.

[kelsow]

Perfect. Thanks.

I'll do the final test next chance I get and report back.

[baloneyskin daddy]

That's all my TL1000 has ever charged and the bike is 13 yrs old and last yr I replaced the battery for only the 3rd time. The original battery lasted 9 years although I milked probably 2 extra yrs out of it when it really should have been replaced. The 2nd one was a cheap piece of shit that I bought in a pinch because I was out on a ride when the original finally totally died and it would'nt even push start. It never got a good initial charge as I stuck it right in at the store to get on with the ride.

[kelsow]

This was me yesterday,


I had a headlight out warning, then it died. No dash at all at first but after I waited it came back but still no crank, just clicks.

I give up and am sending it to the dealer ASAP. I still have warranty till Dec which is good.

[JRWooden]

Originally Posted by kelsow

I give up and am sending it to the dealer ASAP. I still have warranty till Dec which is good.

yeah, that is great! You will likely get the new ventilated flywheel at no charge!

[ironc]

New to the forum and appear to be the latest victim. I was riding home from work two days ago when my speedo, tach and computer all shut down. The bike was still running so I decided to go as far as I could. Made it a few more miles to about a mile from the house when I pulled the clutch for a traffic light and the bike died, pushed it the rest of the way. I am just under 25K miles.

My readings

Charged up the battery and performed the tests.

Voltage at the battery with motor off, 12.8VDC
Voltage at the battery 4000 RPM, 12.4VDC

Stator 1-2 resistance .4 ohms
Stator 1-3 resistance .4 ohms
Stator 2-3 resistance .4 ohms

Stator voltage with stator unplugged from the R/R, engine @3000RPM,
1-2, 3 VAC
1-3, 9 mVAC
2-3, 3 VAC

All stator phases are shorted to ground

It is most definitely dead

Has anyone come across a bad R/R in addition to the burned stator? I plan on testing the R/R per the diode testing procedure on the Electrosport website but was curious if R/R have been going as well.

Any stator sources other than Rick's, Electrosport or a local motor shop for a rewind?

[JRWooden]

Electrosport is still testing their F800GS/F700GS/F650GS design.
It may be another month or longer before it is available for purchase,I just swapped e-mail with my contact there earlier this week.

So at this time, the only sources I know of beyond the $900 BMW kit, or Ricks, would be a local rewind.

If you went with the local rewind you would want to ask about the temperature rating of the wire they would use.
Many shops apparently use 160C rated wire but IMHO that would be a non-starter.

Based on some testing Joel did, the stator in these bikes can approach 200C. Also, if the shop has a higher grade of wire (lower bulk resistivity) that would be a huge plus!

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by ironc

New to the forum and appear to be the latest victim. I was riding home from work two days ago when my speedo, tach and computer all shut down. The bike was still running so I decided to go as far as I could. Made it a few more miles to about a mile from the house when I pulled the clutch for a traffic light and the bike died, pushed it the rest of the way. I am just under 25K miles.

My readings

Charged up the battery and performed the tests.

Voltage at the battery with motor off, 12.8VDC
Voltage at the battery 4000 RPM, 12.4VDC

Stator 1-2 resistance .4 ohms
Stator 1-3 resistance .4 ohms
Stator 2-3 resistance .4 ohms

Stator voltage with stator unplugged from the R/R, engine @3000RPM,
1-2, 3 VAC
1-3, 9 mVAC
2-3, 3 VAC

All stator phases are shorted to ground

It is most definitely dead

Has anyone come across a bad R/R in addition to the burned stator? I plan on testing the R/R per the diode testing procedure on the Electrosport website but was curious if R/R have been going as well.

Any stator sources other than Rick's, Electrosport or a local motor shop for a rewind?

That would make yours one of the lower mileage failures, I think. It is a bit harder to kill the R/R, not impossible, but electronically , a bit harder. To kill the diodes, you have to either severely over volt or short it. Diodes do fail from time to time, But if you don't feel good about yours, there are a few $100 better alternatives, either shunt, or series, replacements out there, there will treat your new stator better than stock. I would recommend all 8GS R/R's to be replaced, after my trials with the replacement units. That does not mean that my stator will not go tilt at some point, but I do know that my battery is taken good care of.

[whitham_wannabe]

A familiar story ... 42,250 miles.

Bike got a little harder to start, then finally wouldn't, thankfully while I was at home.

Prodded around with a multimeter today and this is what I found.

Across battery - 11.41
Across battery, engine running - 10.67

Voltage across three pins, with nothing disconnected.
1-2 - 7.9
2-3 - 10.0
1-3 - 8.8

Resistance across three pins.
1-2 - 0.3
2-3 - 0.3
1-3 - 0.3

I have a fried stator, right?

BTW, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. Awesome resource for a crappy problem.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by whitham_wannabe

A familiar story ... 42,250 miles.

Bike got a little harder to start, then finally wouldn't, thankfully while I was at home.

Prodded around with a multimeter today and this is what I found.

Across battery - 11.41
Across battery, engine running - 10.67

Voltage across three pins, with nothing disconnected.
1-2 - 7.9
2-3 - 10.0
1-3 - 8.8

Resistance across three pins.
1-2 - 0.3
2-3 - 0.3
1-3 - 0.3

I have a fried stator, right?

BTW, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread. Awesome resource for a crappy problem.

For the test to be valid, you have to disconnect the r/r from the stator when measuring the ac voltage, and ressistence between the 3 stator wires. Looks bad though.

[kelsow]

Update on mine.

I got the bike back from the dealer on Wed and all is good now.
It was covered under warranty, thank doG.
Apparently the dealer had to pull a few strings to get the new updated parts
for me but don't know any info beyond that.
It seems that the bike feels a bit snappier but that could be BS, not sure.
The lightened flywheel maybe?

I'm now wondering what is going to go wrong next...

[JRWooden]

Originally Posted by ebrabaek

For the test to be valid, you have to disconnect the r/r from the stator when measuring the ac voltage, and ressistence between the 3 stator wires. Looks bad though.

With stator disconnected also check from the 3-pins of the stator to frame-ground, reading should be "infinite" or very nearly so...
A low reading there means cooked for sure!

At 4000 rpm reading from 1-2 2-3 3-1 should be ~75 VAC

I've not checked mine, but am told normal resistance of the stator windings is ~3.5 ohms

(all this with stator unplugged)

I've not heard from Electrosport for several weeks, so just sent my contact there the "once-a-month" pester e-mail