KTM 690 E & TuneECU - Page 5

Maurizio · 06-04-2011, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unox

should I wait for a acrapovic map for the 2011 model?

Yes.

Maybe you can try these maps, as "Tuning kit evo 2" should be KTM open filter cover plus Akrapovic complete exhaust.

KM765EU11B0233EPMap.hex OEM md5checksum	KTM 690 SMC, Enduro R EPT map 2011 model year only with Tunning kit EVO 2
KM765EU11B0233FIMap.hex OEM md5checksum	KTM 690 SMC, Enduro R EFI map 2011 model year only with Tunning kit EVO 2

But if I were you I'll let a dealer work on your bike...

rumpel · 06-04-2011, 07:26 AM

Which map for 2009 Enduro R , leo vince and uni filter (foam)?

what it means EPT v EFI?

Maurizio · 06-04-2011, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rumpel

Which map for 2009 Enduro R , leo vince and uni filter (foam)?

Akrapovic maps all years...

Quote:

Originally Posted by rumpel

what it means EPT v EFI?

EPT is the map for the ride by wire throttle, EFI for the fuel and ignition management.

Gros Buck · 06-05-2011, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Unox

I'm trying to understand this whole thing before i fry my ecu. I've got a 2011 690 Enduro with wings silencer and ktm foam filter. I guess i should use the acrapovic map?
On http://www.tomhamburg.net there is some maps that is only for the 2011 model but there is also acrapovic maps that fits all years? should I wait for a acrapovic map for the 2011 model?

Read my post before. I have a 2011R with an Akrapovic taken from a previous 690E. It did not work. Had to find the 2011 Akrapovic map. The fuel injection is very different in 2011.

Paul Jr

Unox · 06-05-2011, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gros Buck

Read my post before. I have a 2011R with an Akrapovic move from a previous 690E. It did not work. Had to find the 2011 Akrapovic map. The fuel injection is very different in 2011.

Paul Jr

Thanks, I figured that something had changed in the 2011 model so i haven't tried mapping yet. I guess I'll wait for that 2011 acrapovic map, can't be long before it gets posted.

Uller · 06-05-2011, 09:33 AM

This isn't mine, got it from here. I tried to perform the procedure last night and got a little stuck on the second part cause I didn't understand what the screw was doing to the sensor.... After reading the below post, now I do.

http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...-using-TuneECU

KTM 690 fix staling problem using TuneECU

I spent a week trying to get bike not to stall after loading any kind of map with after market slip-on exhaust. This is a guide on how to do it yourself in much less time spent.

Simptoms:

1. Bike stalls after startup when cold. U need to fire it up every 10 or 30 sec. U can hear it idle iregular and u can even know when its going to stall just by listening to the engine...
2. Bike does not stall during idle but when u try to apply small amount of throttle for 1st gear take off. During idle try to open throttle by very small amounts Very slowly and u can hear engine running irregular or even stall.
Cause of the problem is in two throttle sensors on each side of keihein throttlebotdy. For ECU to know how much throttle is opened, its sensors needs to be in voltage ballpark (so to speak). If sensors are not aligned ECU will think it has throttle opening of 3% while actual opening would be 5% or more, it can also go other way around. Also if sensors are not aligned ECU will not pickup small thottle openings that u apply around idle.

To fix this: one needs TuneECU software, connecting cable, Service manual and some tools. To be able to unscrew throttle sensors one needs torx t20 that has hole in middle.

Procedure on how to adjust these 2 sensors can also be found in Repair manual from pages 165-169. I also advise to read it twice. In manual this procedure is explained using ktm diagnostic tool. U dont need the tool to adjust anything u just need it to read voltages.

Try to read all of the TuneECU guides to get familiar on how to use this software before u start to adjust sensors.

Procedure:
Do this while engine is as cold as possible. Always consult manual first before doing any of this. I am not explaining how to turn every bold around and I am using nuts and connector names and numbers as in repair manual.
Take off seat, body fairing and air box (dont forget to unplug air temp sensor before u remove air box), then unplug motor drive connector thats under keihein throttle body on the left side of the bike (connector DR1 from manual). There are 2 connectors and DR1 is one that has more then 3 wires! U will know if u unplug wrong one by hearing drive motor working when u use your finger to fully close throttle valve (see repair manual on how to close it with your finger). Now connect TuneECU to the bike and go to diagnostic menu. When its comunicating with the bikes ECU u will see most of bikes sensors values appear in Diagnostic menu, here is how it looks like when its not communicating
What u need is to be able to see 2 voltage values under the "Throttle" menu in software ("Throttle" is under "Ignition" and above "Idle" menu on left side of the TuneECU Diagnostic window). Both upper and lower voltage should be round 0.70-0.74 V, and when u use your finger to close throttle valve u should see that the upper voltage value from those 2 drop to 0.50-0.54V. Now if ANY of these voltages is only 0.1V off from what it should be u need to adjust all 3 readings.

So upper voltage reading in TuneECU should be 0.70-0.74V normaly and 0.50-0.54V when u press throttle valve to closed position with finger. While bottom voltage reading value in TuneECU should be 0.70-0.74V.
U always need to adjust all 3 voltages values if any of them is now within spec.

1st u need to adjust voltage reading when u press throttle valve to closed position with your finger. See manual on how to do this! So u need torx t20 key with hole in it (when u see bolt u will know what iam talking about) to losen up sensor that is on left side of the bike its on same side where u unplug motor drive connector. Now adjust sensor by rotating in both directions untill u get 0.50-0.54V reading in TuneECU while pressing throttle valve to closed position. TuneECU reading has lag so dont expect voltages to drop instantly. Make sure that voltage reading stays adjusted AFTER u screw sensor bolts tight.

2nd u need to adjust upper voltage reading to be within 0.70-0.74V when u r NOT pressing throttle valve to closed position. See manual on how to do that! U need to unscrew the cap (fuse cover is called in manual) then u need to loosen the nut no.5 from manual and adjust voltage with screw no.6 from manual. I found manual guide not working for me since top fuse cap was glued on to screw no.6 and nut no.5 was glued so hard to screw no.6 that i need to take it out completly and use some mechanism to hold screw no.6 while i turn nut no.5. I cant give u any advice on how to do that u will just need to figure out yourself, just make sure u dont fuck up the threads on the screw no.6. Once u get this top voltage reading to 0.70-0.74V u can go to 3rd step. Sorry for not being more help full here but I am not sure if u will find this screws glued or not (mine ware glued in not very logical way!).

3rd u need to adjust throttle position sensor on the right side of the bike so that bottom voltage from TuneECU reads 0.70-0.74V. Its same procedure as in 1st step only by using sensor or right hand side of the throttle body (opposite side from 1st step). Adjustment is done after u open throttle fully and close it 10 times and voltage is within specification every time!

4th u need to turn off and back on ignition on the bike, then w8 till it connects to TuneECU and check AGAIN if all 3 voltages are in specification range. If they are in spec range then u are done. Dont forget to do this after any sensors adjustment!

Uller · 06-05-2011, 01:53 PM

Ok, I really need some help. My bike is running like shit. I don't really know what is wrong with it. It stalls right after startup and won't idle. Seems to be an electrical issue of sorts.

Anyhow, to ensure that it isn't my tps settings I performed the above procedure. All setting are on the low side after I am done.

0.50 with throttle closed and motor disconnected.
0.70 on emergency setting and motor disconnected.
0.70 on on APAD and motor disconnected.

I then reconnect the motor and the setting for the THAD jumps to 0.60 and the APAD goes to 0.69.

If i disconnect the motor again and look at the fully closed THAD setting it is still at 0.50 per spec and the emergency setting is again at 0.70??????

So, can someone with Tune Ecu please look at your settings after adjustment and tell me what you have when your motor is reconnected. Am I missing something here?

Uller · 06-06-2011, 01:41 PM

TTT for question above.

crankshaft · 06-06-2011, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gros Buck

Read my post before. I have a 2011R with an Akrapovic taken from a previous 690E. It did not work. Had to find the 2011 Akrapovic map. The fuel injection is very different in 2011.

Paul Jr

According to the KTM tech, the 2011 bikes have different sensors than the previous 690's, so the resistance values are all different, which would confuse the early ECU.

Uller · 06-06-2011, 03:55 PM

Not completely sure if your replying to me but, I don't have a 2011.

2008 690e with about 4,800 mi.

Biped · 06-06-2011, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uller

Ok, I really need some help. My bike is running like shit. I don't really know what is wrong with it. It stalls right after startup and won't idle. Seems to be an electrical issue of sorts.

Anyhow, to ensure that it isn't my tps settings I performed the above procedure. All setting are on the low side after I am done.

0.50 with throttle closed and motor disconnected.
0.70 on emergency setting and motor disconnected.
0.70 on on APAD and motor disconnected.

I then reconnect the motor and the setting for the THAD jumps to 0.60 and the APAD goes to 0.69.

If i disconnect the motor again and look at the fully closed THAD setting it is still at 0.50 per spec and the emergency setting is again at 0.70??????

So, can someone with Tune Ecu please look at your settings after adjustment and tell me what you have when your motor is reconnected. Am I missing something here?

Are you not supposed to set item 2 and 3 with the motor connected (throttle plate not fully closed) ?? So the 0.70V ~ 0.74V would be with motor connected.

Uller · 06-06-2011, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Biped

Are you not supposed to set item 2 and 3 with the motor connected (throttle plate not fully closed) ?? So the 0.70V ~ 0.74V would be with motor connected.

Well, that is where I started..... I've now done it both ways. Same result each way. (In reading the Repair Manual a little closer, you are supposed to set all three with the motor disconnected)

I'll set the 0.50 disconnected, twist grip to dbl check setting stays, then reconnnect the motor and turn off ignition letting comp. connect to motor.

Then I'll set the emergency to 0.70 connected, do the twist/shutdown thing.

Finally, I'll go to set the APAD to 0.70 and it will change the THAD back to 0.60............. It is this viscious cycle of one thing being off setting and I don't know what to do??????

I then tried to do the procedure with the motor disconnected. All of the settings worked out correctly, 0.50, 0.70, 0.70. I then turned off the ignition reconnect the motor and turn ignition back on.

It goes back to reading 0.60, 0.70 on the Tune Ecu program. It is almost as if the motor drive is changing the reading somehow

Any suggestions?????

Also, My MAP sensor reads 990 to 998 with the motor off. Is this correct????

beaney · 06-07-2011, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uller

Ok, I really need some help. My bike is running like shit. I don't really know what is wrong with it. It stalls right after startup and won't idle. Seems to be an electrical issue of sorts.

Anyhow, to ensure that it isn't my tps settings I performed the above procedure. All setting are on the low side after I am done.

0.50 with throttle closed and motor disconnected.
0.70 on emergency setting and motor disconnected.
0.70 on on APAD and motor disconnected.

I then reconnect the motor and the setting for the THAD jumps to 0.60 and the APAD goes to 0.69.

If i disconnect the motor again and look at the fully closed THAD setting it is still at 0.50 per spec and the emergency setting is again at 0.70??????

So, can someone with Tune Ecu please look at your settings after adjustment and tell me what you have when your motor is reconnected. Am I missing something here?

Normal readings from my rally bike are 0.65 and 0.72, and map reading of 998 with engine off.

Have you downloaded or changed any maps?
will the bike run if you keep the throttle open?
Are there any fault codes?

Was it running ok before, if so why did you start altering the sensors?

Uller · 06-07-2011, 12:43 PM

Thank You! (Where did your post go Beany???, edit: oh, i see)

It seems your diffference of .07 follows with my difference of .10 and your map is same as mine.

I guess that rules out the sensors????

No, I didn't change the maps. Yes, the bike will/did run if I am on the throttle (it just doesn't seem the same though...) and it will run longer when I first try to start it than it will if I then try to restart it the second, third times

I did have some fault codes: MAP sensor, throttle position, and a "mystery" code. All came from the throttle body (which is why I am looking there)

It is a somewhat long story. I'll try to be brief:

1. went for long overnight ride, second day (150 mi into trip) I shut off the bike to add reserve fuel. Go to start it back up and it makes a funny sound in the starter, no start. Starts on second try. Runs for 30 seconds with the tack resetting constantly. Dead battery?? It was raining terribly hard the entire day. I was thinking that I got a water short somewhere.

Turns out that my brand new battery had gone bad.

2. Get the bike back home. Used Dielectric grease on all connections thinking that one of them was the culprit (before determining that the battery was the issue). Added a set of led lights. Found out that old battery wasn't bad afterall, it was the charger. Put it back in and went for a ride. The bike fired up fine. It idled normally for a few minutes while i was playing with stuff on the handlebars. Took it for a small spin around the block and at a stopsign it stalled.

Since then, I can't get it to run for more than a minute at a time. It will even start to die with small throttle movements.

beaney · 06-07-2011, 01:11 PM

1st-Do a throttle calibration then a 15 min idle, you changed the parameters of the throttle, it now needs calibrating to the ecu.

Turn ign on
slowly turn throttle to fully open then back to closed.
turn ign off

Check the voltage regulator. The US guy Luke whos been doing a ride report about his journeys came to the UK recently to see if Rally raid could help with his bike, turns out that the voltage regulator was spiking randomly to 16volts and tripping the throttle, he also had battery charging troubles.

The barametric sensor behind the headlight has a piece of rubber tube on it, this must be pointed down but if it get blocked the bike wil not run, probably not related but worth checking.

Try these if you havent already, may help.

We've now got a complete electrical system for this sort of fault finding, it can be a nightmare.

tune ecu will show a log of fault codes, see whats listed if you havent deleted them, it may help.

will do some more checking and get back to you.

06-04-2011, 07:26 AM	#62
rumpel Adventurer Joined: Dec 2005 Location: POLSKA Oddometer: 97	Which map for 2009 Enduro R , leo vince and uni filter (foam)? what it means EPT v EFI? __________________ 690 R

06-05-2011, 09:33 AM	#66
Uller Studly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2008 Location: Marysville, WA Oddometer: 558	Good Write-Up on TPS Setting Procedure This isn't mine, got it from here. I tried to perform the procedure last night and got a little stuck on the second part cause I didn't understand what the screw was doing to the sensor.... After reading the below post, now I do. http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showt...-using-TuneECU KTM 690 fix staling problem using TuneECU I spent a week trying to get bike not to stall after loading any kind of map with after market slip-on exhaust. This is a guide on how to do it yourself in much less time spent. Simptoms: 1. Bike stalls after startup when cold. U need to fire it up every 10 or 30 sec. U can hear it idle iregular and u can even know when its going to stall just by listening to the engine... 2. Bike does not stall during idle but when u try to apply small amount of throttle for 1st gear take off. During idle try to open throttle by very small amounts Very slowly and u can hear engine running irregular or even stall. Cause of the problem is in two throttle sensors on each side of keihein throttlebotdy. For ECU to know how much throttle is opened, its sensors needs to be in voltage ballpark (so to speak). If sensors are not aligned ECU will think it has throttle opening of 3% while actual opening would be 5% or more, it can also go other way around. Also if sensors are not aligned ECU will not pickup small thottle openings that u apply around idle. To fix this: one needs TuneECU software, connecting cable, Service manual and some tools. To be able to unscrew throttle sensors one needs torx t20 that has hole in middle. Procedure on how to adjust these 2 sensors can also be found in Repair manual from pages 165-169. I also advise to read it twice. In manual this procedure is explained using ktm diagnostic tool. U dont need the tool to adjust anything u just need it to read voltages. Try to read all of the TuneECU guides to get familiar on how to use this software before u start to adjust sensors. Procedure: Do this while engine is as cold as possible. Always consult manual first before doing any of this. I am not explaining how to turn every bold around and I am using nuts and connector names and numbers as in repair manual. Take off seat, body fairing and air box (dont forget to unplug air temp sensor before u remove air box), then unplug motor drive connector thats under keihein throttle body on the left side of the bike (connector DR1 from manual). There are 2 connectors and DR1 is one that has more then 3 wires! U will know if u unplug wrong one by hearing drive motor working when u use your finger to fully close throttle valve (see repair manual on how to close it with your finger). Now connect TuneECU to the bike and go to diagnostic menu. When its comunicating with the bikes ECU u will see most of bikes sensors values appear in Diagnostic menu, here is how it looks like when its not communicating What u need is to be able to see 2 voltage values under the "Throttle" menu in software ("Throttle" is under "Ignition" and above "Idle" menu on left side of the TuneECU Diagnostic window). Both upper and lower voltage should be round 0.70-0.74 V, and when u use your finger to close throttle valve u should see that the upper voltage value from those 2 drop to 0.50-0.54V. Now if ANY of these voltages is only 0.1V off from what it should be u need to adjust all 3 readings. So upper voltage reading in TuneECU should be 0.70-0.74V normaly and 0.50-0.54V when u press throttle valve to closed position with finger. While bottom voltage reading value in TuneECU should be 0.70-0.74V. U always need to adjust all 3 voltages values if any of them is now within spec. 1st u need to adjust voltage reading when u press throttle valve to closed position with your finger. See manual on how to do this! So u need torx t20 key with hole in it (when u see bolt u will know what iam talking about) to losen up sensor that is on left side of the bike its on same side where u unplug motor drive connector. Now adjust sensor by rotating in both directions untill u get 0.50-0.54V reading in TuneECU while pressing throttle valve to closed position. TuneECU reading has lag so dont expect voltages to drop instantly. Make sure that voltage reading stays adjusted AFTER u screw sensor bolts tight. 2nd u need to adjust upper voltage reading to be within 0.70-0.74V when u r NOT pressing throttle valve to closed position. See manual on how to do that! U need to unscrew the cap (fuse cover is called in manual) then u need to loosen the nut no.5 from manual and adjust voltage with screw no.6 from manual. I found manual guide not working for me since top fuse cap was glued on to screw no.6 and nut no.5 was glued so hard to screw no.6 that i need to take it out completly and use some mechanism to hold screw no.6 while i turn nut no.5. I cant give u any advice on how to do that u will just need to figure out yourself, just make sure u dont fuck up the threads on the screw no.6. Once u get this top voltage reading to 0.70-0.74V u can go to 3rd step. Sorry for not being more help full here but I am not sure if u will find this screws glued or not (mine ware glued in not very logical way!). 3rd u need to adjust throttle position sensor on the right side of the bike so that bottom voltage from TuneECU reads 0.70-0.74V. Its same procedure as in 1st step only by using sensor or right hand side of the throttle body (opposite side from 1st step). Adjustment is done after u open throttle fully and close it 10 times and voltage is within specification every time! 4th u need to turn off and back on ignition on the bike, then w8 till it connects to TuneECU and check AGAIN if all 3 voltages are in specification range. If they are in spec range then u are done. Dont forget to do this after any sensors adjustment! Uller screwed with this post 06-05-2011 at 01:52 PM

06-05-2011, 01:53 PM	#67
Uller Studly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2008 Location: Marysville, WA Oddometer: 558	Ok, I really need some help. My bike is running like shit. I don't really know what is wrong with it. It stalls right after startup and won't idle. Seems to be an electrical issue of sorts. Anyhow, to ensure that it isn't my tps settings I performed the above procedure. All setting are on the low side after I am done. 0.50 with throttle closed and motor disconnected. 0.70 on emergency setting and motor disconnected. 0.70 on on APAD and motor disconnected. I then reconnect the motor and the setting for the THAD jumps to 0.60 and the APAD goes to 0.69. If i disconnect the motor again and look at the fully closed THAD setting it is still at 0.50 per spec and the emergency setting is again at 0.70?????? So, can someone with Tune Ecu please look at your settings after adjustment and tell me what you have when your motor is reconnected. Am I missing something here? Uller screwed with this post 06-06-2011 at 01:44 PM

06-07-2011, 01:11 PM	#75
beaney rally racer Joined: Jul 2009 Location: uk, or on a rally. Oddometer: 124	1st-Do a throttle calibration then a 15 min idle, you changed the parameters of the throttle, it now needs calibrating to the ecu. Turn ign on slowly turn throttle to fully open then back to closed. turn ign off Check the voltage regulator. The US guy Luke whos been doing a ride report about his journeys came to the UK recently to see if Rally raid could help with his bike, turns out that the voltage regulator was spiking randomly to 16volts and tripping the throttle, he also had battery charging troubles. The barametric sensor behind the headlight has a piece of rubber tube on it, this must be pointed down but if it get blocked the bike wil not run, probably not related but worth checking. Try these if you havent already, may help. We've now got a complete electrical system for this sort of fault finding, it can be a nightmare. tune ecu will show a log of fault codes, see whats listed if you havent deleted them, it may help. will do some more checking and get back to you. __________________ 690 enduro/ rally 350 exc RALLY-RAIDPRODUCTS.CO.UK

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06-06-2011, 01:41 PM	#68
Uller Studly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2008 Location: Marysville, WA Oddometer: 558	TTT for question above.

06-06-2011, 03:55 PM	#70
Uller Studly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2008 Location: Marysville, WA Oddometer: 558	Not completely sure if your replying to me but, I don't have a 2011. 2008 690e with about 4,800 mi.

06-07-2011, 12:43 PM	#74
Uller Studly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2008 Location: Marysville, WA Oddometer: 558	Thank You! (Where did your post go Beany???, edit: oh, i see) It seems your diffference of .07 follows with my difference of .10 and your map is same as mine. I guess that rules out the sensors???? No, I didn't change the maps. Yes, the bike will/did run if I am on the throttle (it just doesn't seem the same though...) and it will run longer when I first try to start it than it will if I then try to restart it the second, third times I did have some fault codes: MAP sensor, throttle position, and a "mystery" code. All came from the throttle body (which is why I am looking there) It is a somewhat long story. I'll try to be brief: 1. went for long overnight ride, second day (150 mi into trip) I shut off the bike to add reserve fuel. Go to start it back up and it makes a funny sound in the starter, no start. Starts on second try. Runs for 30 seconds with the tack resetting constantly. Dead battery?? It was raining terribly hard the entire day. I was thinking that I got a water short somewhere. Turns out that my brand new battery had gone bad. 2. Get the bike back home. Used Dielectric grease on all connections thinking that one of them was the culprit (before determining that the battery was the issue). Added a set of led lights. Found out that old battery wasn't bad afterall, it was the charger. Put it back in and went for a ride. The bike fired up fine. It idled normally for a few minutes while i was playing with stuff on the handlebars. Took it for a small spin around the block and at a stopsign it stalled. Since then, I can't get it to run for more than a minute at a time. It will even start to die with small throttle movements.