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Old 05-12-2011, 01:05 AM   #1
GreaseMonkey OP
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Dirty Sanchez, I have a threadlocker issue

I managed to get some permatex 27100 (red high strength) into a place where I didn't want it and now it is causing a small part to bind. I have movement in everything, it is just sticking when a spring should cause it to return.

The parts are all steel, and will be a moderate but not impossible PITA to disassemble.

Is there a solvent I can use? I've tried lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, and rubbing alcohol.

I am hoping there is a solvent I can use to dissolve it, the return spring is a little smaller than a ball point pen spring and I suspect it has gotten in the coils too. Soaking it for a day or two is preferable to disassembly and cleaning it that way.

Any suggestions?


Thanks!

GM
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Old 05-12-2011, 06:39 AM   #2
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Acetone or carburetor cleaner?
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Old 05-12-2011, 06:56 AM   #3
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Naptha. Works great on polymerized rubber.
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey View Post
I managed to get some permatex 27100 (red high strength) into a place where I didn't want it and now it is causing a small part to bind. I have movement in everything, it is just sticking when a spring should cause it to return.

The parts are all steel, and will be a moderate but not impossible PITA to disassemble.

Is there a solvent I can use? I've tried lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, and rubbing alcohol.

I am hoping there is a solvent I can use to dissolve it, the return spring is a little smaller than a ball point pen spring and I suspect it has gotten in the coils too. Soaking it for a day or two is preferable to disassembly and cleaning it that way.

Any suggestions?


Thanks!

GM
Chisel that sucker clean! You don't even need a hammer. Check this out.

http://www.idealvac.com/files/brochu...ripperTech.pdf
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:03 PM   #5
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Acetone
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Old 05-13-2011, 05:25 AM   #6
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Methylene Chloride.

It'll remove the protective slime coating on your eyeballs, fingerprints, and paint off of the hood of a persons car who has wronged you.

If you can't find plain old methylene chloride, we have a product called Loctite Chisel. It's a shake it up, spray on gasket and paint remover which contains methylene chloride.

I'm having a tough time visualizing the part you buggered up, so a pic or two would help.

Once you're able to source either product, pour or spray a few thimblefuls onto a small cup made from tin foil. Then with a cheap metal bristled gun cleaning toothbrush, carefully work the wet bristles around the bunged up part/pieces until the parts are free. While methylene chloride won't dissolve a theadlocker that is captured in between a nut and a bolt, it will soften anaerobic, silicone, old indianhead shellac-type gasketing products to the point you can wipe them off with a paper towel, or popcicle stick scraper.

Rinse off the fingerprint eating product with a degreaser, acetone, gasoline, or diesel, but DON'T wipe it on your britches or get any on your skin.

Don't ask me how I know.

Dirty
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post

Rinse off the fingerprint eating product with a degreaser, acetone, gasoline, or diesel, but DON'T wipe it on your britches or get any on your skin.

Don't ask me how I know.

Dirty
I used to work in a graphics business. The screen printing process used methylene chloride is some of the paint mixes. The guys that worked the paint booth used to dip their cigarettes in the solvent and smoke them. They gotta be dead by now...
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
Methylene Chloride.

It'll remove the protective slime coating on your eyeballs, fingerprints, and paint off of the hood of a persons car who has wronged you.

If you can't find plain old methylene chloride, we have a product called Loctite Chisel. It's a shake it up, spray on gasket and paint remover which contains methylene chloride.

I'm having a tough time visualizing the part you buggered up, so a pic or two would help.

Once you're able to source either product, pour or spray a few thimblefuls onto a small cup made from tin foil. Then with a cheap metal bristled gun cleaning toothbrush, carefully work the wet bristles around the bunged up part/pieces until the parts are free. While methylene chloride won't dissolve a theadlocker that is captured in between a nut and a bolt, it will soften anaerobic, silicone, old indianhead shellac-type gasketing products to the point you can wipe them off with a paper towel, or popcicle stick scraper.

Rinse off the fingerprint eating product with a degreaser, acetone, gasoline, or diesel, but DON'T wipe it on your britches or get any on your skin.

Don't ask me how I know.

Dirty
I replaced a barrel on a 22 magnum rifle I have, the barrel is press fit and held in with a pin. In addition to the pin I used the threadlocker on the barrel as well. When I was setting the headspace some of the threadlocker traveled down one of the extractors (there are two extractors) and that is where this all started.

Here is a breechblock similar to what I have:


If you look at the bottom edge of the block carefully, you can see the retaining/pivot pin for the extractor. On the side you of course see the hole where the spring goes that provides the pressure to snap the extractor over the edge of the cartridge rim. Right now the extractor can expand but binds too much to grip the case when pulling it out of the chamber.

The pivot pin is really stuck, I've tried a couple of punches and I am worried about marring the finish if I get any more aggressive.

Hence my question of what solvent can I use to soak this in to dissolve out any remaining threadlock compound. If you say MEK, then that's what it will be...
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Old 05-14-2011, 12:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey View Post
Hence my question of what solvent can I use to soak this in to dissolve out any remaining threadlock compound. If you say MEK, then that's what it will be...
Don't you read the posts? No one has said anything about MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). It's methylene chloride, which is the main ingredient in Loctite's Chisel. Damn----.
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:31 AM   #10
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Given the configuration of the parts, Chisel will be too thick.

Yep, MEK is Methyl ethyl ketone. Entirely different than Methylene Chloride. None of the other chemicals mentioned so far will soften or remove a thermoset plastic like a cured threadlocker.

If you spray it on a part or the hood of a very nice automobile owned by a person who has wronged you it's to thick (somewhat gelatinous) to wick into the tight spaces. You're going to need to source the plain old liquid version of this chemical, brush it on, or soak it at your own risk and see what happens.

Go to the local science supply store, or even the local university lab/general store.

This is an oddball chemical for us mere mortals to attempt to source, but given the nature of my job, I buy things at the LSU Lab Store all the time without a hitch. I bet they'd have it.

Dirty
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
Given the configuration of the parts, Chisel will be too thick.

Yep, MEK is Methyl ethyl ketone. Entirely different than Methylene Chloride. None of the other chemicals mentioned so far will soften or remove a thermoset plastic like a cured threadlocker.

If you spray it on a part or the hood of a very nice automobile owned by a person who has wronged you it's to thick (somewhat gelatinous) to wick into the tight spaces. You're going to need to source the plain old liquid version of this chemical, brush it on, or soak it at your own risk and see what happens.

Go to the local science supply store, or even the local university lab/general store.

This is an oddball chemical for us mere mortals to attempt to source, but given the nature of my job, I buy things at the LSU Lab Store all the time without a hitch. I bet they'd have it.

Dirty
I believe that Ambroid ProWeld is mostly Methelyne Chloride. It's a solvent glue used in model building, and widely available in small quantities from any number of online sources, and from local hobby/model shops.

Based on the MSDS, 3M's Mar-Hyde(r) Tal-Strip(r)II Aircraft Coating Remover, 3711 and Kleen Strip's Klean-Strip Aircraft Remover are both mostly methelyne chloride, mixed with alcohol and some other stuff.

I can tell you that ProWeld will most certainly wick into very, very small gaps. It's also relatively cheap.
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:40 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benesesso View Post
Don't you read the posts? No one has said anything about MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). It's methylene chloride, which is the main ingredient in Loctite's Chisel. Damn----.
Today 01:09 AM
GreaseMonkey



Goddam Benesesso cut a guy some slack for a brain fart posted at 1 in the morning, and a Saturday morning at that!
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:46 AM   #13
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Today, 02:54 AM

Benesesso

Oh, I see you were at the same party.
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:51 AM   #14
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Have you tried heat? I'm guessing either a tool or a 4000 series steel. Maybe even a carburization but, that won't get damaged by low heat. You're good to at least 500 deg F.
Heat it then try the punch. Stick it in the oven at 350. You won't do anything to the heat treat. Gloves may help.

The only possible damage will be to springs. Forgot the name of the spring for all guns shop.
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpsVFR View Post
I believe that Ambroid ProWeld is mostly Methelyne Chloride. It's a solvent glue used in model building, and widely available in small quantities from any number of online sources, and from local hobby/model shops.

Based on the MSDS, 3M's Mar-Hyde(r) Tal-Strip(r)II Aircraft Coating Remover, 3711 and Kleen Strip's Klean-Strip Aircraft Remover are both mostly methelyne chloride, mixed with alcohol and some other stuff.

I can tell you that ProWeld will most certainly wick into very, very small gaps. It's also relatively cheap.
Thanks for the info Hps.
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