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Old 05-14-2011, 04:07 AM   #16
photomd
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Here's my report...the cam chain starts on page 2. If you have the right tools, it's not difficult. A good puller is important.
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:10 AM   #17
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Master link

Quote:
Originally Posted by dduelin View Post
I did the single row cam chain on my '81 five years ago and it was easy. I called Hucky's and he sold me a kit with everything I needed. The only part that was frustrating was getting the master link installed but I didn't know about this forum then and had to figure out myself to come at the back of the chain with the link super glued to a piece of stiff wire. If I had asked ADV back then I would have had a thread of helpful comments. I did not change cams.
Just replaced my chain on the slash 6. Here's a little tip I used a small flat tip screwdriver with a strong magnet attached to the end. Then "stick" the C-clip on the end of the driver and press it into place.
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Old 05-14-2011, 07:26 AM   #18
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Leak

If the timing chest is weeping it is likely whoever was in there before you did not insert the thin washers item #9.

These washers prevent the timing chest distorting causing the leak.
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:22 AM   #19
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PN 9 are probably the doughnuts SS talks about---.
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:30 AM   #20
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Question

Thanks for the concrete input.
I'm going to have a shop do the pulling and pushing.
Are we talking just the top gear looks like it needs replacing or the bottom too?
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:51 AM   #21
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IMHO, you just need the top one.

The magnet and screw driver is a cool trick.
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:53 AM   #22
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Thanks.
What's involved in replacing the cam?
You don't need to pull the jugs do you?
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:54 AM   #23
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You should replace that crankshaft sprocket... Anybody mention that yet?


As mentioned, a decent quality puller (two or three jaw, imho) and deft application of heat with a torch or heat gun.


Replacement: Use heat on the sprocket and the bearing. 3/4 drive 1-5/16ths socket makes a decent drift when refitting the crank's nose bearing.

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Old 05-14-2011, 10:31 AM   #24
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I didn't even notice the ground edge of those teeth in the photo. I was just looking at the normal wear of the teeth like you can see in Rob Farmer's Photo. Rob's photo is a good photo of what to look for. I suspect RD's teeth are ground that way because the sprocket wasn't fully installed on the crankshaft and the resulting chain misalignment caused the sprocket wear. I have had sprockets stick before they are all the way back but I fix it! I always make sure the sprocket hits the back of the crankshaft and STAYS there until it cools. I also make sure the tips of the sprocket teeth do not discolor from heating it up thusly ruining the temper.

RD, you just need to replace the crankshaft sprocket. It looks like it isn't on all the way anyway.

Duplex versus simplex? The duplex chains wear faster as well. Why? They are a lot heavier and a lot more complex in both their machining and how they are SUPPOSE to work. Each roller is suppose to share the load equally. I doubt that happens much either for the sprocket's machining or the sprocket's wear or a combination of both.
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:33 AM   #25
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Dave at Recommended service tore me a new one for pounding on the crank sprocket on my /5. To take it off, a good puller is vital. A special one for that job is about $100. Same with the cam sprocket. Replace both while you are at it, otherwise the chain will wear quickly and be exactly where it was before. To put it on, put the crank and front bearing case in the freezer overnight. (ideally the whole engine) Or outside in the cold will do. Put the bearing and the sprocket in the oven to 400*. They should drop on, without any resistance.

The bottom sprocket needs its endplay adjusted to +/- .001, as well as a special tool and a press. Just pull the cam and take it somewhere. Takes them 30 minutes.
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:40 AM   #26
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you'll need to get the pushrods out of the way to do the cam, so yeas, Jugs off.

Then you might as well do the bearings while youre in there... Oh man youre screwed

Just do the sprockets and chain and get out while you still can!!!
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:53 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmax351 View Post
Dave at Recommended service tore me a new one for pounding on the crank sprocket on my /5. To take it off, a good puller is vital. A special one for that job is about $100. Same with the cam sprocket. Replace both while you are at it, otherwise the chain will wear quickly and be exactly where it was before. To put it on, put the crank and front bearing case in the freezer overnight. (ideally the whole engine) Or outside in the cold will do. Put the bearing and the sprocket in the oven to 400*. They should drop on, without any resistance.

The bottom sprocket needs its endplay adjusted to +/- .001, as well as a special tool and a press. Just pull the cam and take it somewhere. Takes them 30 minutes.
Cam sprocket? That all depends on if you have a duplex or simplex chain. The simplex cam sprockets for some reason almost never wear AT ALL. Your chain will last just as long with a used one because their is no difference usually between a used one and a new one. I am going on my experience as a pro wrench AND the accumulated experience of all the mechanics that I have worked with at a number of very busy dealerships. Not to mention what I gleaned as a child and young adult hanging out, helping, and working in my dad's BMW dealership.

It doesn't take any special tools other than some feeler gauges to set the camshaft end play.
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:00 PM   #28
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Cool2

...OKK.K.-kay guys.
Parts ordered. Next weekend it's off to RPM Cycles to have the deed done.
New chain, crank sprocket, bearing, tensioner, gasket. donuts.
Thanks for the input, I'm leaving it to the pros...

Consider this thread dead...
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Rapid Dog screwed with this post 05-14-2011 at 08:12 PM
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:48 AM   #29
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Boo!!
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Old 05-15-2011, 07:34 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand View Post
you'll need to get the pushrods out of the way to do the cam, so yeas, Jugs off.

Then you might as well do the bearings while youre in there... Oh man youre screwed

Just do the sprockets and chain and get out while you still can!!!
Stagehand I appeciate what you're saying about scope creep but...
can you pull the rockers, remove the pushrods and insert a telescopic magnetic wand down each hole to retract the cam followers then remove the cam without further upset to the top end?

I haven't tried it so it's more of an idea that an actual techinque.
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