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Old 05-15-2011, 01:24 PM   #1
PSchrauber OP
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Location: Summer: Kemiö, Finland; Winter: North Germany
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Which paint for engine sidecases?

I have just got my sidecases repaired. They fit to an Bultaco Sherpa motor. The bike was ridden as an trials bike so there where a lot of cracks and scuffs on both sides of the cases.






Inside look of the sidecases:





As ssen where the logos where broken too, the cases were welded an to align and plane the outer surfaces and to remodel the logos I used metal knead HT which worked very well.








Now Iam thinkingto do a repaint. I could use this high temperatur paint but this paint need a lot of temperature to get permanently resistant to oil and gasoline. A little bit more than the around 80°C I will probably get here.

Normal spray can paint is much more resistant against oil and gas but not heat resistant.

Have anyone experience here which easy to apply spray paint may be suitable for this job?

Any hints and tricks are very welcome !!!

PSchrauber screwed with this post 05-27-2011 at 09:13 AM Reason: added the h
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:45 PM   #2
RedRocket
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appliance paint? i don't think you need to worry that much about the heat.
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Old 05-17-2011, 04:27 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRocket View Post
appliance paint? i don't think you need to worry that much about the heat.
Oh I didn't know that.

Until now I always had used heat resistant paint, but there are only some colors available, (silver black and some ground colors, (red yellow blue, ...)

Now I want to give the sidecases a look like the cylinder:



The cylinder and cylinder head is blasted and now has a dull gray color. This matches to DB702, (DB702 is German railway color code, a more dull gray with real alloy chips, looks like casted alloy).

I can get this color as normal paint for metal surfaces but not heat resistant.

That's why I ask, I beleive I will give it a try.

Thank's for the information.
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Old 05-17-2011, 04:38 AM   #4
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I would use a "good" epoxy primer, and urethane paint. anything out of a spray can will not hold up. I painted a set of Harley cases for a customer about 25 years ago, I saw the bike last year and the paint still looks new.
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:15 AM   #5
RedRocket
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i thought you wanted black
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:58 AM   #6
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Someones gotta say it..... powder coat..... there done
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:23 AM   #7
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Someones gotta say it..... powder coat..... there done
He has used plastic filler on it, powder coat won't work.
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:28 AM   #8
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I have restored many old MX bikes, and a couple trials bikes. Depending on color, ANY quality rattle can will work pretty well but ANYTHING is going to scuff off from MX boots. Now you might want to, since you aren't trying to do a total comcourse resto, do bed liner as it'll stay on no matter what. BUT it'll look bumpy. I suggest a primer that is etching primer and a good auto motive paint in a spray can from Pep boys if you have them where you live.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:13 AM   #9
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The wear marks are a problem I know, furtunatly most wear you have on
the clutch cover, where the rear brake is situated.

Then some marks on the ignition side where the kicker and gear level is.

For both areas I have not used any metal knead, (which has nearly the
same physics like alloy and is heat resistant up to 300°C, I'am very
pleases with that stuff). I will give it a really light gray primer coat then
and then as little paint as possible.

If there then occurs scratches they are there. They will come I would call them patina then. (*)

The other scratches and dents are all small accidents when the bike was
ridden in the stones.

(*)I first tried to keep the patina with all small dents, ... but there where so many issues, that it was sadly not possible.

PSchrauber screwed with this post 05-17-2011 at 02:10 PM
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Old 05-27-2011, 03:04 AM   #10
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I use VHT engine enamel
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Old 05-27-2011, 03:47 AM   #11
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If your filler is good for 300 degrees C like you say it is, I'd have it powdercoated.
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Old 05-27-2011, 04:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmoto View Post
I use VHT engine enamel

Where did you get that from Rob?
Having seen the end results on your bike, I'm very impressed!
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Old 05-27-2011, 05:16 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cat Daddy View Post
If your filler is good for 300 degrees C like you say it is, I'd have it powdercoated.
The job is done now, I have decided to paint the original side cases like the factory did, just normal heat resistant paint.

As prework the surfaces where light sanded with 400 grid and cleand with acetone, I applied two coatings with a 600 grid in between.

The second pair of sidecovers got thin layer of heat resistant paint as
a primer, (light sanding again with 400 grid).

Then two layers of can spray for alloy wheels, with a 30 min. break to thicken in between.
At last after another additional 30 min. break a layer of clear coat.



The ridges seen on the silver painted cover are still from the casting I hope the color fit to the cylinder which is glass pearl blasted.



The black paint is dull but will get a satin surface with the time.



Due to the complicated bushings, for the clutch lever and push rod actuator, the gear lever axle, the logos, drain plugs and vent connections,
(Additional the rotor cover side has to be painted on both sides near the chain sprocket where the cluth rod goes through the axis of the sprocket), powder coating was not an option here I think.
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Old 05-27-2011, 06:53 AM   #14
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Oh I have just forgotten to write it down!

Thank's for the input and replies I have got !!!
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Old 05-27-2011, 02:25 PM   #15
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Those came out looking good.

I'm late to the party on this thread.... But if you have to repaint after a while, I have had excellent results repainting the side covers on my Ducs and lots of other stuff with Duplicolor 500F Ceramic Engine enamel. The Cast Coat Aluminum color is almost a dead match for cast aluminum that has been lightly sandblasted or hand sanded. The black looks good also.

The most important trick other than good prep is to allow the parts at least a week or more to start curing before reassembly to avoid chipping or scratching. After about 4-5 weeks of curing it is about as durable as most factory coatings I've seen.
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