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Old 09-01-2014, 06:32 AM   #1
Mardas OP
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F800GS Troubleshooting

Greetings from a hot and humid Cyprus.

Thanks to all you guys for providing such a rich source of information.

Im currently in a bit of pickle with my 2008 F800GS and any input would be appreciated.

I have spend days reading through various helpful posts, the Haynes manual and have tried to eliminate a few of the possible culprits (at least to my understanding) but to no avail.

Background

The bike has been misfiring, stalling, rough idling and the exhaust manifold goes into cherry red mode within a couple of minutes of riding. The bike starts up and as soon as the throttle is twisted and the engine goes back to idling (the whole process in neutral) the engine cuts out immediately.

The bike started off by "only" misfiring, running at what felt like half its normal power. Opening up the throttle for a second or two would momentarily resolve the issue (would rev normally with a delay before delivering full power).

A local mechanic suggested using some fuel system cleaner to remove any buildup in the injectors, etc ... which we did.

Over the next few days the misfiring frequency increased until eventually the bike started stalling at low revs and then the exhaust manifold (specifically the "bubble" part directly above where the swing arm meets the chassis) started glowing cherry red after a short test drive yesterday.

So far the following has been done:

1. Changed spark plugs.
2. Flushed dirt from radiator and reservoir / topped up with anti-freeze.
3. Replaced both the worn idle air hoses that connect with throttle body.
4. Failed attempt to remove thermostat housing to check if the thermostat is working correctly (all I achieved was scraping bits of plastic off the thermostat housing "access space" that was indicated in the Haynes manual, it wouldn't budge at all and felt like it would snap if more pressure was applied).

Any ideas?

I'm itching to get back out there.

Cheers.
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:01 AM   #2
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ah... now that you've posted in here I can finally say it. GO FILL OUT DAT PROFILE NOOB

arf... finally got my daily dosis of being a bitch :o)
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:09 AM   #3
Pangit
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Sounds as though ignition timing is a mile out of whack. I suggest you get it to a Motorrad dealer with a computer and find the problem that way. Beats blowing the engine!
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:15 AM   #4
Bad Daddy
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If you changed the plugs, is there a chance that you may have a bad coil stick?
Or possibly damaged it removing it?

If it revs in neutral, but feels half as powerful when riding, I'm guessing one cylinder isn't getting a spark, and the excess fuel is causing the catalytic converter to get real hot.
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:18 AM   #5
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Checking for codes would be preferable if possible.

First I thought LEAN as in a clogged filter but if the CAT is glowing then it's too rich. If the FPC (fuel pump controller) quit it wouldn't start and if the FPR (pressure regulator) quit it would run rich but not as bad as you say.

Start the bike for 5-10 seconds and stick a wet finger on one exhaust header at a time. Quickly to avoid burns. Each should have the same "sizzle" as in the same temperature. If one is cold (no heat) then you know the bad cylinder. If you have no spare coils and want to troubleshoot, you could swap them over and then see which cylinder is cold now.

If you find both cylinders are the same temp or one is just slightly cooler then maybe a stuck injector is causing the rich condition. With the airbox off, open the throttle fully and observe the injectors. Turn the key on so the pump primes and watch if fuel leaks from the injector tips. If so then it's stuck and needs replacing.

Check your injectors while swapping coils to save time.

Let us know what you find.
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Old 09-02-2014, 05:18 PM   #6
itsatdm
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What did the old plugs look like?
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Old 09-05-2014, 01:07 AM   #7
Mardas OP
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Right spark was not firing in the end ... determined by Reaver's "hot sizzle" technique (right exhaust header was cold). Right coil connector was loose.
Guessing downing beer when troubleshooting doesn't always work
After a 5 minute ride all sounds and feels like new again

The right spark plug was and is a stud and the left spark was and is a terminal. Had to remove the terminal on the right spark when fitting in the new ones as the right coil wouldn't fit on the terminal. Is there any issue with having different plugs / coils on each cylinder?

I had 3 trouble free years on the "mismatch" set up.

Right, off to take the bike out for a proper test drive.
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Old 09-05-2014, 08:52 AM   #8
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[QUOTE=Mardas;25005698]
Guessing downing beer when troubleshooting doesn't always work
[QUOTE]

Actually the beer taught you more about your bike and brought you closer.

The correct NGK plugs have fixed terminals you can't unscrew. You must be using an unapproved type that will invalidate your warranty and make the bike rat you out. Some big German guy (possibly a woman) will come and carry your bike away for that violation.

Seems to me there's an old terminal or something stuck in your right coil stick. I guess it still works. If you ever have the same problem again you'll know where to look. Now go find a cheap used stick now that you don't need it.
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Old 11-09-2014, 06:58 PM   #9
Effisland
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Pissed

This sounds exactly like what I was experiencing. My bike is still apart, I have checked air filter but not plugs, need a 16mm thin walled socket to get the plugs out.

This started soon after I changed the oil. I thought I had put too much oil in the crank before going on a long ride. It sounded rough around 120 kms/hr and would cough and sputter when trying to apply power going up hills on the highway. Usually it has limitless power on hills. Soon after that it started sputtering at low speeds and coughing, then stalling when going slow around town.

Got home, removed all old gas, put in new gas, no difference. Changed oil with different kind of oil, this time measured more carefully, 2.7 litres, no filter change. No difference.
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