New Garmin Montana

[rickypanecatyl]

I'm curious as to y'alls thoughts on the security of the unit in just the rugged and then in the tourtech mounts?

If you're on a long ride, come to an unknown city with a desire to see a movie would feel safe with the unit left in the tourtech mount?

Does the rugged mount get weaker every time you take it in and out? (For sure on the 62ram mount every time it went in and out it got looser.)

[TowPro]

Originally Posted by DRTBYK

The routing algorithm Garmin uses these days uses Intersection data to shape your route (thats how you get the turn-by-turn directions even though you didn't place a Via Point at an Intersection). When you place Via Points on the Intersection it can confuse the routing algorithm. The best place to position a Via Point is at least 50ft AFTER an Intersection - and as noted perviously by many folks, make sure to zoom in on the road where you want to place a Via Point so as to make sure the point is actually on the road and not to the side.

Cheers,

You can see what Dan is talking about by placing a via point maybe 1 tenth of a mile before a corner. The GPS anounces vias just like it announce corners. But since the Via comes before the corner you will get several announcements to the Via, then it switches to "Quick, right turn NOW!".

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by rickypanecatyl

I'm curious as to y'alls thoughts on the security of the unit in just the rugged and then in the tourtech mounts?

If you're on a long ride, come to an unknown city with a desire to see a movie would feel safe with the unit left in the tourtech mount?

Does the rugged mount get weaker every time you take it in and out? (For sure on the 62ram mount every time it went in and out it got looser.)

Yikes. I would never leave the Montana even in the TT mount while I went into a movie. Odds are some dick would get pissed off at not being able to remove it, and he'd key the display instead.

Re: the mount getting weaker with use. No, it doesn't.

[Rocky TFS]

Originally Posted by DRTBYK

The routing algorithm Garmin uses these days uses Intersection data to shape your route (thats how you get the turn-by-turn directions even though you didn't place a Via Point at an Intersection). When you place Via Points on the Intersection it can confuse the routing algorithm. The best place to position a Via Point is at least 50ft AFTER an Intersection.
Cheers,

I just knew that was in here somewhere, but darned if I understood why. That would explain most of my screwball routing observed...

Thanks!

[avocadofarmer]

Looks like they just released the new 4.10 version.....runs faster for me!

[_cy_]

Originally Posted by avocadofarmer

Looks like they just released the new 4.10 version.....runs faster for me!

yepee!!! finally a non beta version!

just upgraded to 4.10 with Garmin webupdater

[marco polo]

Originally Posted by _cy_

yepee!!! finally a non beta version!

just upgraded to 4.10 with Garmin webupdater

Thanks for the tip. I've been waiting for an official release of an update. I stopped downloading beta versions after one of them turned my Montana into a paperweight a couple of months ago (replaced with new by Garmin, but still a pain).

[Emmbeedee]

Originally Posted by marco polo

Thanks for the tip. I've been waiting for an official release of an update. I stopped downloading beta versions after one of them turned my Montana into a paperweight a couple of months ago (replaced with new by Garmin, but still a pain).

The update to 4.10 seems to be working on my 650 now, though when I applied the update I got a warning saying that the version I was trying to apply was older than the current one, and did I want to clear settings and apply it. When I said No, thinking I would check things out before proceeding, the gps turned out to have 4.10 on it after all.

I think my issue may have been that there was a gupdate.gcd file from one of the Beta installs still on the gps or the memory card. Checking the gps and memory card after, I didn't find an update file on either, but the process may have deleted any leftover gupdate files.

Anyway, all's well that ends well.

And those of you breathing a sigh of relief for the Official Release should thanks those of us who run the Betas, for all that testing we do for you.

[Emmbeedee]

Just updated my wife's 650 and before running WebUpdater I checked the gps and uSD card and sure enough, there was a gupdate.gcd on this one. That would probably have given me the same warning if I'd run WebUpdater before removing the file.

So, if you've used Beta releases in the past, check your Montana for old gupdate.gcd files and remove those before running WebUpdater.

Also, when running the Windows version of WebUpdater, after the software had been downloaded to the Montana I checked for more updates while the unit was still connected and it looked to me like there might be updates to the Montana Help file and the Time Zone map so I got those as well.

[Rocky TFS]

Originally Posted by Emmbeedee

And those of you breathing a sigh of relief for the Official Release should thanks those of us who run the Betas, for all that testing we do for you.

GARMIN ought to give you guys FREE Montanas for all the testing you do!!!!! Especially those who bricked theirs!!!

I've been l lucky, 4.01 and 4.04 were the only ones I tried, and I never got white screens or shutdowns, just a lot of wierd behavior and forgetting settings.

Now let the Beta testing of the Official Release begin......

[TravellingStrom]

Hey chaps I am now officially confused

With regards my dead battery I posted about and the response from here was great. I did phone Garmin Europe from my mobile phone but when I got the message "we are currently experiencing a high call rate" I gave up as it would chew my credit up to be on hold a long time

Anyway, my three rechargeable Enloop batteries I used to power it needed to used in my SPOT device until I could find my lithiums.

So, I tried the Garmin LI battery again and now it works?????

What is going on, any ideas?

I still think I need to have it replaced, what do you think?

Cheers from Romania
TravellingStrom


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cheers
TravellingStrom

[Rocky TFS]

Originally Posted by TravellingStrom

So, I tried the Garmin LI battery again and now it works?????

What is going on, any ideas?

Try slamming it fairly hard down on a marble countertop under the palm of your hand while telling it "Bad Boy!! Bad Boy!"

No, really, it worked for me!.....on second thought, that was only good for NiCads when they were completely discharged. YMMV

Mumble a few arcane spells over it anyway.....can't hurt.

[Emmbeedee]

If you lose the cap on your "Rugged Mount" Torx security crew, and you're worried that the tool itself is going to start scratching the paint on your bike, then you might want to listen up. My wife lost the cover on hers, so I found some small diameter tubing, the size I keep around to bleed brakes, and after making sure this hose was clean, I cut an inch or so off and put it on the end of the tool, leaving only about 1/16" sticking out the end.

That's all you need to lock the mount, and this way, it's really unlikely to damage paint or dig a hole in her pocket.

[FatChance]

After originally mounting my Montana on a Rugged Mount via a SAE connection directly to the battery on my 1150GS, which worked fine, I decided to go all in to get the best solution. I had a Centech AP1 auxiliary fuse panel sitting around and decided this would be good weekend to install it and clean up existing aftermarket electrical connections. I mounted the Centech and two relays in the space under the back of the tank above the air cleaner with an aftermarket mounting plate.

I connected the Montana, my mp3 player with an modified Powerlet USB adopter cable, a second optional GSA-style Powerlet outlet on the back of the beak (keeping the factory battery-powered Powerlet by the starter as is for a trickle charger) and a new line to power my Warm&Safe heated jacket liner I had originally powered with the second Powerlet to separate circuits on the new fuse panel. I also attached a piece of an old inner tube over the positive battery terminal and the upper relay just to avoid any potential shorts from the metal tank. Can't be too careful!

I wanted more than just using the ignition to switch power the fuse panel so I added two relays with one powered by ignition power and a Cyclenutz handlebar mounted switch for the other. The second relay is powered from 87A on the first relay. This way, the fuse panel would by default be powered by ignition power but could also be switched on by the handlebar switch when the ignition was off. The mp3 player and Montana (and other circuits) could then be turned on with the switch to charge their batteries or keep a GPS track alive when I was off the bike. Best of both worlds. You could, of course, just use one relay and switch battery battery power to the Montana if you wish. I still used SAE connectors for each of them so they could easily be disconnected for whatever reason in the future. I used appropriately sized wires and soldered and shrink wrapped all connections.

Here is a picture of the mp3 player, Montana and the handlebar mounted switch:



Here is another picture of the Centech fuse block, the two relays and the wiring. The electrical line on the left is the power line for the heated jacket liner that comes up in the front of the saddle.



It works great and solves any issues people have with either direct or switched ignition power to the Montana! I think this is the optimal way to power a Montana.

Edit: I also covered my torx driver with shrink wrap!

[cablebandit]

Upgraded this morning.....had two shutdowns in a row while navigating a route.


It really is a shame that my old 60CS works flawlessly, and the Montana is plagued by nit-picky little things.