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Old 05-31-2012, 12:37 AM   #3046
Radioman OP
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Leh, India

Leh was the capital of the Himalayan kingdom of Ladakh, now the Leh District in the state of Jammu and Kashmir, India. At about 11,000 Feet.

After the amazing ride up the Himalayas Mountains from Manali, we had several days to relax in Leh, and get ready to ride up to Khardung La, which is the highest Motorable road in the world!! Khardung La (Khardung Pass, la means pass in Tibetan) at 5,359 m (17,582 ft) elevation is a high mountain pass located in Ladakh region of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir.

Leh is a touristy town because it is a jumping off point for the mountain trekking and other activities. It has some large Temples and other Buddhism and Islam sites. They seem to live together well.



Enjoying the views of the city



The kids are so cute..... These two posed right away!



Bills photo of two girls sharing the headset.



We catch up on some shopping and walking around the town. Had some great food, and other than one day that I had “travelers diarrhea ” which lasted about 24 hours (no photos for you but I though about it :loll )





There are lots of markets selling Tibetan goods and interesting artistry.

Did a little gift shopping, but mostly enjoyed or time.







The wood working is amazing in many of the hotels and buildings.



and Local produce





Lots of goods to buy....







everyone uses these to sweep their floors.



Meeting Tibetan monks on the street. He was shopping also!



Trying on a very small and uncomfortable headdress. Shop owner was fun!



Bill stocking up on Snacks!



They make up bags out of Newspaper to take your goods home.



Wisdom...







and some other signs around the town of Leh



A view over the Polo fields and Leh



Then time for Lunch!



Chicken MoMo's ... Yummy





As we continue our walk about town, there is so much to take in.....

Like the wiring



Cart wheels



Building techniques



Buildings of all types



Huge Prayer wheels (thanks SmilinJack for the hat!)





I rented a new Royal Enfield for the ride up Khardung La as my bike was still in the hands of Mahon ( who has been working on Enfields for 32 years!).

The first one I rented was running real rough,



so I switched to a different one with only 830 KM and it ran great!



Then we headed the 40+ KM from 11,500 feet to 18,380 feet of the Khardung La





Oh Yea here we go!!!



Royal Enfields are a great time in the mud, snow, water...





and a few obstacles



3Km from the top.... air is thin, but it is awesome!!



Once they were on the hop of the hill, a family from Bombay was all over us!!



First photos with MoBill





They wanted photos ....



and photos on the bike with us..... I let her pretend to drive





Sign at top. Julley is the region greeting.





Leaving a mark on the top of the world.





Just a quick jump at 18,380 feet. Huff huff huff Sticker from Mrs C-stain...



with about a 25 foot drop next to me....



Had to rest when I got down from the sign.



MoBill covering my sticker up :(



Spectacular views looking down into the valley









Still road work going on.



It was a thrill to ride up the Highest motorable pass (although I have read there are a couple in Nepal that are higher…… Oh well still was fun to ride!)


After riding to the top of the mountains we came back to Leh, and checked on my bike. It was done and running. He charged me $3,200 Rupees ($59.22 USD) to repair the tappet and get me back on the road. Thanks Mohan!

Here is what was broken...







As we were gassing up the bikes so that we could ride back to Manali, I look over and saw Bills rear shock.



Bill you better ride back and get this fixed…. He said no It will make it… Then he road back, and Mohan, said “Will not make it.” You need new. And he asked the parts guy, started replacing them. New shocks. 2,600 Rupees install (48 usd) Made a huge difference for Bill.



Installed



MoBill thanking Mohan for getting his bike in good order.



We awoke at 4:30 am and got on the road at 5:30 since we had about 12 hours riding ahead. Great to be back on the road with the amazing scenery ahead.

Hydration was really important in staying away from altitude sickness.



Said goodbye and tipped the staff who carried our bags, got us water etc. Amazing service!



One last stop at the huge prayer wheel on the road out of town.



Some Temples on the way out of town. We are excited about the riding!!



The adventure continues!!
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Chapter 3 of my life...... with Faith, Hope and Courage!

Ride of my Lifetime...... Thread started 5/11/2011 http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...0#post15950430

Radioman screwed with this post 05-31-2012 at 05:44 AM
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:45 AM   #3047
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Just caught up. Thanks for sharing Radioman. Great adventure! Very inspiring! Praying for your continued safety and blessings.

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Old 05-31-2012, 02:00 AM   #3048
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Last post on page 205?

Loving this part of your journey Mark...
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Old 05-31-2012, 03:09 AM   #3049
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Sometimes the scale isn't just mountains....loved riding through this, here's Mark on approach to an ancient Buddhist Stupa....
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Old 05-31-2012, 03:10 AM   #3050
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Originally Posted by Mr. Fisherman View Post
Last post on page 205?

Loving this part of your journey Mark...
Yes and we are staying in room 205 :loll



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Chapter 3 of my life...... with Faith, Hope and Courage!

Ride of my Lifetime...... Thread started 5/11/2011 http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...0#post15950430

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Old 05-31-2012, 05:10 AM   #3051
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New ride report

Oh my gosh, I am speechless once more... Your choice of what to show is is delightful Doc.
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Old 05-31-2012, 05:39 AM   #3052
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Leh back down to Manali May 29

So we ride out of Leh at 5:30 am knowing we have a 12 hours ride back through the mountains. Many road signs giving us information and humor along the way!



Blue sky morning as we roll south. Interesting temples along the way.



The Himalayas are amazing all around us. As we head south we have so much varied terrain to ride and see. High Passes, plains, rivers etc.



Trucks carrying building materials are seen. Just liked the look of these similar sized branches, probably for roof's



Just having an amazing ride. Taking our time and enjoying the beauty of the place.



Vast space with no people .....





Gaining elevation again....



Heading over TanglangLa





Needs another jump at high Altitude....



Made it to 17,582 Feet!





MoBill and Radioman riding the top of the world!!





Bill putting his bike where we can get a photo!



MoBill talking to the Figure near the Temple.




Beauty.







Riding across the plains and it is amazing!!


Then.......







Clack Clack Clack Engine dies again.

So what did we do. Got out the tow strap...... and decided to tow the bike to Pang which was 50 KM away. This is the travelers Tent city that I broke down last time near. We knew we would have food, water and shelter. And figure out another truck back to Manali for my bike





We worked as a team and made our way within a couple hours. I coasted the last couple KM down the pass into Pang.

http://radioman.smugmug.com/Other/IN.../IMG3071-L.jpg

Here we are again.



Over 15,200 feet, the oxygen is thin, but we are feeling very good, other than mechanical issues on my bike.



So we had some lunch and started asking about trucks heading south...... maybe later was the response. Then up on top of the pass above we could see three trucks coming. I ran out to the road to flag them down. and Bill rode up the road in case they stopped at the army base up the road.

Surnam came out with me and spoke to the drive that I flagged down in Hindi. Yes they would take me for $3,000 Rupee ($55.00 USD). they backed up to the exact same spot I loaded before.



By now I know the drill.....



bike tied down. (sorry for the bad photo but was huffing as I gathered my gear and loaded up in a hurry. Was less than one hour since the time we arrived and when I was back in a truck again.



This truck had a larger cabover with a large pad covered in rug. The driver plus two others and then me. I did have room to stretch out, but they spoke virtually no English.



And off I go again with a broken engine



along the dusty road I go. Litening to the local music and taking photos out the window.



Bill packed his bike and rode up in front of us, knowing he had an option for a truck if he needed one.



Here he is passing us and riding along the mountains.



New ADV riding in the cab. Videos to follow.... But this was my view. You just are missing the sounds, smells, and roughness of the ride!



The scenery is amazing as I hold my head out the window!



Yea.... amazing. think this is some of the roads that Ice road truckers filmed on.



It was a 14 hour truck ride over the Rhotang pass at night



Rolled into Manali at 4:30 Am. Through the herds of Goats and Sheep being herded through town. Since being on the road about 23 hours I was a bit blurry eyed to say the least. No photos taken :)

We drove through town, and I was looking for the motorcycle shop. Since they spoke basically no English, it was tough to communicate where to let me out. Finally through town I spotted a tall pile of gravel, they backed up and we rolled the bike on top and then I rolled to to the ground! Having no idea how safe the area is? They flagged down an Auto rickshaw and I loaded my gear and told him to drive me to Old Manali to find a hotel so I could sleep......... Yes this is an adventure!!!

MoBill was riding to Keylong and would email he made it, and then we had a meeting point set in Manali for Wednesday afternoon.
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Chapter 3 of my life...... with Faith, Hope and Courage!

Ride of my Lifetime...... Thread started 5/11/2011 http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...0#post15950430

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Old 05-31-2012, 06:03 AM   #3053
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A great RR ... Beautiful scenery...

The look on B face here says it all...

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Old 05-31-2012, 06:05 AM   #3054
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I see that you've been to Gesmo's. Remember that Mikey?
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:21 AM   #3055
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So a'yup. Here we are out on the prairie, aaagain.... Funny thing was, no emotion after the first throat cutting motion as I drove up, "DEAD!" "WHAT?" "Dead." No way...dead.

Laughs....I haul out the buddy tow and off we go. :) Mark was an excellent brakeman...I mean excellent. Not one drop of the rope...and we established a commo system right off and he kept that sucker tight.


A few Kms down the road here's Mark doin' the palaver with the locals...he walks them over but no dice...they're really not interested and we look at each other...drive on:




As Mark said, coasting down the hill down to Pang...no more towin'....50 Km total:


Again, short lunch, we're keeping our eyes peeled, Mark spots the truck runs out, waves it down and in as long as it takes me to snap a few of him loading and run off to the can, he's ready to pull away:


Wave to the crappiest photog:




I go in double check we're paid up for lunch, wave to Sonam and say, "that's it hon, see ya", pull out, get in front of my sweep:





And it's a little bit of solo time Big smiles...good adventuring is never a conceived plan, but a reaction and adaptation to what comes along, no?

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Old 05-31-2012, 06:34 AM   #3056
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And it's a little bit of solo time Big smiles...good adventuring is never a conceived plan, but a reaction and adaptation to what comes along, no?
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:05 AM   #3057
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May 30th Manali.... More bike repair!

After just two hours sleep, I shower and get breakfast at the Dragon Guest House, I get an "Auto Rickshaw" to take me down to the repair shop that we stopped at to fix my horn! Know where it is!!



Here I am. Explain that my bike has broken down and is at the south end of town. So they send there mechanic and another guy with me.



My Enfield Experience.....



We ride through town and my bike is still where I left it at 4:30 this am.



He opens the valve plate, kicks it over, shakes his head. They glad down a three wheel "truck" and the 4 of us lift in into the truck.... so it can get back up to the shop!





Loaded up



Tied in...



We get it off loaded at the shop. and the owners invite me to come in have a cup of tea and wait until the mechanic can wash the bike, then take a look.....



He Jumps right in!



Looks like I have the same problem as before. The front tappet broke, but this time it got wedged in the gears







The lower bearing is also damaged so he is trying to pry it off!



As I wait a bit more, the owner brings me some fresh Cherries. Yummy.



The owner sits with the Mechanic and makes a list of needed parts. He has some of them, but not all of them. He will need to get the parts from Kullu (about 2 hours away). I am tired so I give him the hotel information and directions to give to Bill when he arrives later in the day. This was our plan when we parted. Got an email from him this am from Keylong, that he had to have a new rear sprocket installed in Keylong, then would be along.



Back at the Hotel, I get a hot shower and go back to bed for another couple hours.



Good Hot Water here!

While I was sitting outside my room connecting to the web. I met Liza who is from France. We had a wonderful conversation about life, travel and so many other topics. So fun meeting other travelers along the way. Sharing experiences and connecting about the sights, sounds and smells that we have experienced.



About 3PM, I hear the sound of MoBill's loud Enfield and he rolls into the hotel parking area! They rush out to greet him and carry his bags to our room.



We catch up on the previous days events and then go find some dinner!!



Somehow the guy that sewed on my spot holder onto my jacket last time we were in Manali, spotted bill, and wanted to polish his boots. Too Funny. They saw him coming





We are staying in Old Manali which is a cool place to hang out. Lots to see and do for sure!

We see lots of the local women hauling with huge baskets....



And now a little time to relax and smell the roses!! these are in the hotel grounds.







On May 31st, we relaxed, rode Bills bike to the shop to have them replace the rack, as it is broken in many places

I check on my bike and they have taken more apart.



MoBill spinning a tale of woe and that he needed to have repairs and his bike washed for his ride back to Delhi!



This cute little guy was watching ......



So we took a walk through town, back to the hotel to find internet access, have lunch and relax. The adventure has been awesome so far, but MoBill only has a few days before he rides back to Delhi to fly home. I will stay here a few more days before riding on for the next 2 weeks before meeting up with CJ and Fat_tony for a little ride in the mountains east of here !
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Chapter 3 of my life...... with Faith, Hope and Courage!

Ride of my Lifetime...... Thread started 5/11/2011 http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...0#post15950430
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:45 AM   #3058
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Great update! Keep it up, fellas.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:54 AM   #3059
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It looks like you are really enjoying your ride, this lock looks handmade.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:39 AM   #3060
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would like to see this on the front page
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