ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 01-19-2012, 08:17 AM   #31
rudolf35 OP
Warped & Twisted Mind
 
rudolf35's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, TX
Oddometer: 797
Hate being board

I hate being board; waiting on stuff. The solution, find other nargles that need tending to; hate to stare at dead parts.


Dead seals

While contemplating what other things I could tend to on the /5, I realized that the rear shocks are quite dead and need replacement. Now being a KLR owner at heart (never had one but I am still a cheap bastard), I was sitting there attempting to figure out a way to re-shock without going into funds. Solution came while I was placing parts into the trailer (serves as storage for underway projects); a set of Triumph Scrambler shocks. They have less than 500 miles on them, are chrome and look era right. OK, dug the Scrambler shocks out and took a measurement from center eye to center eye. Well look at this, they where 3/4" longer; not a issue since I am re-springing the front and will have 1/2 spacers in there anyway (bike will keep the same ride height front to back).

Having had that epiphany I ran headlong into reality. The eye bushings on the Scrambler shocks where about 2.5mm to big to take the bolts from the /5.

Options - drill the /5 frame for bigger bolts on top; dead on contemplation.
re-bush the Scrambler shocks; would work
make/find a spacer to go between the /5 bolts and Scrambler shock bushing; would work

So in a fit of creativity I dashed off to my favorite parts store - ACE Hardware. As I was digging in the bushing and spacer drawers a couple of employees go interested in what I was up to (not everyone comes in with a shock and calibers in hand). Explained what I was after and for some reason they ACE employees go into it the search. We must have covered every drawer from plumbing to door hardware. Finally, after a good hour and a half the eureka find.

It turned out that garage door rollers, at least the ones ACE had, used hard nylon bushings between the rollers and the metal axle. The OD of the bushings was molecules thicker than the ID of the Scrambler shock bushing (which are metal) - nothing a quick emery cloth scrub could not tend to. The ID of the ACE bushings was also molecules of from a perfect fit - threaded the /5 bolt through and it fit bang on. So, for the cost of 6 (two as screw up spares - have to know me) hard nylon bushings, $2.80 with tax, I had a re-shocked /5. It even looks good.


Triumph Scrambler shocks on /5

FYI, the reason the wheel is pushed so far down is that the tire is flat and I have a jack under the motor since the front end is off the bike - thought I might circumvent a lot of comments - yeah, right.

Now that little fit of creativity kept me occupied for all of 4 hours; what next? Ah! One of the emblems on the starter cover was peeling and needed tending to. So off came the starter cover and with the cautious use of a paint scraper the already loose emblem popped right off. At this point the surfaces where treated to a wire brush treatment followed by a MEK wipe down. Once the MEK had evaporated, a fine bead of 3M emblem adhisive and the parts where rejoined with a judicious use of clamps.


Drying emblems

Not bad result for a afternoon of nargle tending.


Remounted emblem

And before anyone points out, no, I will not paint them. I kind of like the semi-polished motor and plain emblems.

__________________
2013 Ural Gear-Up, 2008 Fatbob, 1999 Jeep Sahara, 1982 BMW R65LS, 1973 Honda CL350 K5, 1971 BMW R50/5


rudolf35 screwed with this post 01-19-2012 at 08:46 AM
rudolf35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2012, 10:53 AM   #32
Boxer Metal
Mad Scientist
 
Boxer Metal's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Chico, California
Oddometer: 3,431
I would not run those shocks. 3/4 of an inch( I know your raising the front with 1/2 spacers which will net you maybe an 1/8 of an inch)is a lot. By raising the back of the bike your decreasing trail which will make your already twitchy short wheel base bike even more unstable. Buy some cheaper proper replacements. I'm not a fan of Hagons but they are cheap and would work better. At the same time do not put Progressive brand fork springs in the front. They are the wrong length and wrong wire diameter for any 70-84 Airhead. Use the stock 77-80 R100RS heavy duty springs from BMW.
__________________
BOXER Metal
BMW Biker Scum
BMW Mad Scientist!
VBMWMO #7770, BMW MOA #48694 & Airhead BMW Club #600
Boxer Metal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2012, 06:39 AM   #33
rudolf35 OP
Warped & Twisted Mind
 
rudolf35's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, TX
Oddometer: 797
Thumb Suspenders

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmweuro View Post
I would not run those shocks. 3/4 of an inch( I know your raising the front with 1/2 spacers which will net you maybe an 1/8 of an inch)is a lot. By raising the back of the bike your decreasing trail which will make your already twitchy short wheel base bike even more unstable. Buy some cheaper proper replacements. I'm not a fan of Hagons but they are cheap and would work better. At the same time do not put Progressive brand fork springs in the front. They are the wrong length and wrong wire diameter for any 70-84 Airhead. Use the stock 77-80 R100RS heavy duty springs from BMW.
The Scrambler shocks are temporary suspenders. As I noted, I am a cheap guy and I will tend to them when I get the front and the rest done. Until then, the suspenders will work. I went with the Progressive springs on Huck's recommendation, will see how they work out. If they are not workable I will go with Works front springs and YSS rear shock as I did on the K75S.

As to the front, I will rebuild the forks and then see how they work out. If I need to add a bit more than the 1/2" I will just add PVC spacers until the front calms down. All in all, it is a wrenching exercise, fun and a play toy. Chances are when I am done I will sell her after I had a road trip in on her - I have a more interesting (to me) project in the works; a scrambled Sportster.

__________________
2013 Ural Gear-Up, 2008 Fatbob, 1999 Jeep Sahara, 1982 BMW R65LS, 1973 Honda CL350 K5, 1971 BMW R50/5

rudolf35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2012, 03:01 PM   #34
baldwithglasses
Godspeed, Robert
 
baldwithglasses's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2007
Location: East Atlanta Village, Atlanta, Georgia
Oddometer: 795
Quote:
Originally Posted by rudolf35 View Post
I have a more interesting (to me) project in the works; a scrambled Sportster.

baldwithglasses is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2012, 03:12 PM   #35
Cordless
Two Wheel Addict
 
Cordless's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Spokane WA
Oddometer: 2,028
Dickin around in Rudolf35's garage.
Cordless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2012, 06:39 AM   #36
rudolf35 OP
Warped & Twisted Mind
 
rudolf35's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, TX
Oddometer: 797
Cool2 OK, the parts are in

The parts arrived and it is time to dig in. The first item to go after are the front forks.


Parts laid out ready to go after it

When I last worked on the /5 I had taken the forks down to their respective components and ended up with a pile of old gaskets and seals; all way past their prime and also found out that there where several missing parts.


Front fork leftovers

The first items that where installed, where the seals. Not a big deal. A little light oil and they popped right in. I made sure they where seated with a 36mm socket and some light tapping with a rubber mallet.


New fork seal installed

After the seals where in, it was time to go after the forks internals. I had the parts laid out in order and with the help of the Clymer and a drawing from Huck's site got the order right. FYI, for the older /5 forks the exploded view on Huck's site is the way to go. Not only is the view right, it cross references the drawing with the images of the parts on his site - a real workload ease.


Internals refreshed and ready to mount

After installing the rings, spring and gaskets it was time to put the dampening rods into the stanchions. Per the Clymer book two thin feeler gauges are needed. That not only was cumbersome, it also would have destroyed the feeler gauges. While I was on the phone with Huck (ordering the parts) he mentioned a trick he uses. He stated that a soda bottle materiel, plastic needless to say, would provide the perfect materiel to use to insert the dampening rod without harming the wiper rings. OK, I cut up a handy soda bottle and got two reasonably straight pieces of plastic.

At first I tried on on either side of the piston but that proved to thick. I then used only one piece of plastic, right where the ring gaps where and voila, the piston slipped right in without damage to the wiper rings (I first coated the inside with a light film of oil).


Plastic guide in use

After the dampening rod was in the stanchion, it was time to start buttoning up the bottom of the stanchion. Now this is where I had a moment of head scratching. In the fork rebuild kit there where two translucent rubbery/plastic rings - WTF are they for? So, back to the Huck exploded view (which I had printed out) and the i-Pad to look at the picture of the parts. Bingo! These two rubber/plastic rings (one each side) goes between the small cap and stanchion. The order was - dampening rod in stanchion, rubber/plastic ring, screw cap then spring ring. Fell together like it was meant to be. It seems that these rubber/plastic rings where omitted by PO. Huck did mention that they tend to fall apart with age; I did not find a trace of rubber pieces when I tore the legs apart.


Rubber/plastic ring on dampening rod in stanchion

That being solved, the rest was a simple button up job. Replaced all the gaskets and washers in the lower outer cap and was rewarded with two rebuild front fork legs.


Fork legs ready to mount

So, the next step will be to install the legs, install the new progressive springs, oil up each leg (280cc per) and then go after mounting the new handlebars and cables - another days challenge.

__________________
2013 Ural Gear-Up, 2008 Fatbob, 1999 Jeep Sahara, 1982 BMW R65LS, 1973 Honda CL350 K5, 1971 BMW R50/5

rudolf35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2012, 06:28 PM   #37
rudolf35 OP
Warped & Twisted Mind
 
rudolf35's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, TX
Oddometer: 797
Laugh Front, carbs done bike is sort of running

Time and work are moving right along. Over the last few days I got the front done and managed to clean and mount the carbs.


Rebuilt front forks, mounted


Carbs in Pinesol treatment

To cover a previous request, the following images show the mounting of the Sportster mufflers.


Right side Sportster muffler

The following image shows the PO's adapter between the Sportster muffler and the stock /5 header pipes.


Adapter between Sportster muffler and BMW header

I also replaced the old spark plug wires and caps.


New plug wires and caps

The wiring of the coils also left a lot to be desired. Not taking a chance I replaced and rebuilt the connectors on the coils.


Rebuilt coil wires

Since my biggest nargle where the bars I also mounted some new Euro low bars. This sure makes the bike more stock and a lot better looking.


Euro low bars

Now that all this is done I have run into a interesting right carb problem; started a new thread on that. It seems that the right air/mix screw has no effect on the idle of the right side. I can turn it all the way in or out and there is no change - another nargle to go after.

__________________
2013 Ural Gear-Up, 2008 Fatbob, 1999 Jeep Sahara, 1982 BMW R65LS, 1973 Honda CL350 K5, 1971 BMW R50/5


rudolf35 screwed with this post 02-06-2012 at 08:11 AM
rudolf35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2012, 07:47 PM   #38
DiabloADV
Semi-Occasional
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Location: Nor Cal, USA
Oddometer: 2,228
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmweuro View Post
At the same time do not put Progressive brand fork springs in the front. They are the wrong length and wrong wire diameter for any 70-84 Airhead. Use the stock 77-80 R100RS heavy duty springs from BMW.
Are the proper stock specs available somewhere? I do know that some listings for progressive springs are the wrong ones. But they do spec a spring for a /5. The est way to know fur sure would be to compare specs.
__________________
1974 R90/6 w/1050 kit. Motor only. Seeking a frame.
1970 R60/5

'91 Bill Holland Steel w/Dura Ace
'01 Z3 3.0 Coupe. The Clownshoe.
DiabloADV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2012, 06:06 AM   #39
rudolf35 OP
Warped & Twisted Mind
 
rudolf35's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, TX
Oddometer: 797
Laugh Offending party tended to

Well, the offending carb has been tended to. It was a partially blocked idle jet that took some work to clear. The bike is idling fine now so on to the next nargle.


Offending right carb

While I was working on the carb I took a reading, at 3000rpm, just to see what the voltage is. OK fine 11.84v is not a good reading at that RPM. The battery is a new AGM so that is not a issue. In the next few days I will run through the test of the voltage regulator, diode board and check the brushes and connections on the alternator.

__________________
2013 Ural Gear-Up, 2008 Fatbob, 1999 Jeep Sahara, 1982 BMW R65LS, 1973 Honda CL350 K5, 1971 BMW R50/5

rudolf35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2012, 07:31 AM   #40
chasbmw
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Bath Uk
Oddometer: 2,042
it looks as if you intend to fit spacers on top of the fork springs to raise the ride height of the front of the bike to 'match' the longer rear shocks.?

All this will do is preload the springs and you will get into the zone where the forks become very stiff and have little travel, this is not good and you risk washing out the front end on the first bumpy corner you come across.

DAMWIKT
__________________
Charles
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps6e61ae2e.jpg
R90s 1070 replica, R90/6, 1958 R50
1971 Commando Fastback
chasbmw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2012, 09:09 AM   #41
rudolf35 OP
Warped & Twisted Mind
 
rudolf35's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, TX
Oddometer: 797
Wicked Spacers

Quote:
Originally Posted by chasbmw View Post
it looks as if you intend to fit spacers on top of the fork springs to raise the ride height of the front of the bike to 'match' the longer rear shocks.?

All this will do is preload the springs and you will get into the zone where the forks become very stiff and have little travel, this is not good and you risk washing out the front end on the first bumpy corner you come across.

DAMWIKT

There are NO spacers in the front forks. The only thing that was added to the front forks was where the new Progressive springs. As to the rear shocks, they are a temporary item to get the bike in a "testable" state. Right now it is not even registered and I have to sort out the charging issue. First things first. This will be a long time build, my road bikes take the brunt of the miles.

__________________
2013 Ural Gear-Up, 2008 Fatbob, 1999 Jeep Sahara, 1982 BMW R65LS, 1973 Honda CL350 K5, 1971 BMW R50/5

rudolf35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2012, 05:30 PM   #42
rudolf35 OP
Warped & Twisted Mind
 
rudolf35's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, TX
Oddometer: 797
Thumb Charging issue solved

Mulling over the 11.84v reading, I came up with all sorts of ideas; most rubbish. What is one to do? Go by the number - check out component by component.

The fist one I checked was the voltage regulator - passed
Second item on the list was the diode board - passed - But in checking out the diode board I removed the connectors and the corrosion on them. Seeing this corrosion, I realized that that might be the cause of my low voltage. I proceeded to remove one connector at a time, clean it (plus the post it connects to) and put it all together with a bit of lithium grease.

After all that, I remounted the battery negative lead and fired the bike up. After a good warm up, I took another voltage reading at the battery, at idle, and came up with 12.7v. As I increased the RPM's the voltage climbed. Issue solved!

On to the next issue, making sure all items needed for the state inspection work.
__________________
2013 Ural Gear-Up, 2008 Fatbob, 1999 Jeep Sahara, 1982 BMW R65LS, 1973 Honda CL350 K5, 1971 BMW R50/5

rudolf35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2012, 03:45 PM   #43
rudolf35 OP
Warped & Twisted Mind
 
rudolf35's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, TX
Oddometer: 797
Thumb It rides!

After all sorts of little nargles the R50-6/5 is done; at least the mechanical part. What remains are some of the "look" items and the registration.


1971 BMW R50/5 with 60 jugs


Flip side


Back


Front

With the few miles around the area, no tags, I can honestly state the the Scrambler shocks work. The bike is not in the least squirmy or hard to handle. The Progressive springs in front feel good and all in all I am quite happy with the result of the refurbish.

Now, I shall sally forth and test the bike with a major grin guaranteed!

__________________
2013 Ural Gear-Up, 2008 Fatbob, 1999 Jeep Sahara, 1982 BMW R65LS, 1973 Honda CL350 K5, 1971 BMW R50/5

rudolf35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2012, 05:09 PM   #44
rudolf35 OP
Warped & Twisted Mind
 
rudolf35's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Location: Arlington, TX
Oddometer: 797
Another ride with a BANG

Today, another 60 degree TX day, it was time to have some more /5 fun. I took the bike for a nice backroad spin which was nothing but grins and fun. The, while heading home, a loud BANG, no power no nothing. I pulled the clutch and coasted to the curb. One stop I centerstanded the bike and tried the kickstarter, no dice - solid! After a call to the AMA tow service and a lift home it was time to get it ready to pull the heads. I drained the tank and carbs and the bike Is ready for the grand opening.

More to come!
__________________
2013 Ural Gear-Up, 2008 Fatbob, 1999 Jeep Sahara, 1982 BMW R65LS, 1973 Honda CL350 K5, 1971 BMW R50/5


rudolf35 screwed with this post 10-16-2013 at 09:31 PM
rudolf35 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2012, 06:07 PM   #45
sdpc2
Just another Rally Rat
 
sdpc2's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Charlotte, NC
Oddometer: 1,118
oh that doesn't sound good



let us know what you find....
__________________
'12 R1200GS Rallye Edition, '04 R1150 RT (for sale),'99 R1100GS,'77 R100S

I lower my passenger pegs for those riders that have gone before me
sdpc2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 07:57 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014