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Old 02-11-2012, 04:17 PM   #151
ontic OP
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Melbourne
Oddometer: 1,070
Thanks Solo,
As it happens I have one more set of the stock bits of metal that we used to turn down into the shaft extender and the knob. So I could possibly make one more set out of them.
I'll try to twist my mates arm to make another set for you- might take a little while though. I've got a couple of other things I need to ask him to do soon so I'll try to lump it in with that.
You'd then have to get a little hole turned into the top of your stock adjusters to match the profile of the extender, and braze the little suckers in.

Alternatively, if anyone you know has metal lathe and brazing abilities, it would be quite easy to do yourself.

To do a batch of them, if there was ever enough interest, would require re-figuring it out from some basic available stock metal. Using the bits I scrounged up was easy because the shaft and knob were already very well fitted together with the grub screw- it cut out a lot of work but it also determined some design principles. If starting from scratch then the design may want to be a bit different.
An aluminium knob would make a lot of sense- for the weight conscious that is a pretty solid little lump of brass there.
The extension of the shaft itself I am pretty happy with- there are not a hell of a lot of good ways I can see that happening- once the upper O-ring was removed the metal narrowed very dramatically there which is why we didn't bore into that section as the worry was it would weaken it too much. We only bored about 2/3rds into the screw head. Threading an extension in would hit this problem and I don't think it could be done with any strength.

With the way I have done it, if by some act of brutality the extended top manages to brake off at the braze, then the adjuster might still be usable. With a bit of careful heat to melt the braze it is also reversible. My suspicion is though that the brazed join would not be the first point to brake (or at least bend).

I've considered all sorts of things for the knurling or shaping of the knobs. Unfortunately my friends ancient lathe doesn't do knurling- he has an attachment for it but it jus doesn't work. I keep picking up hacksaws and files, and then putting them down and carefully backing away.
Basic traditional fine tooth knurling would be nice, flat sides like the head of a bolt, an odd shape like an arrow head pointer, stuff like that (and it may involve hacksaws and files on a day I feel unusually precise). Once I figure out that I will probably get an engraver to mark or stamp the face of them with a R and C and + and - directional arrows- I think I can remember corrently that Right is Rebound and Right is Tight, but surely I'll confuse this down the track somehow unless it is marked there in front of me.

Anyway, if there was interest then getting my friend to do a batch run might be possible but honestly it would probably be worth getting someone like HPMguy to whip some up over there- I suspect his set-up is a little more modern than my friends, and this would be a very simple thing for him. Given the exchange rate and postage from Oz it would undoubtably also be cheaper- possibly even for any Australian WP50 owners who wanted in.
I'd be happy to take a lot of measurements in order to figure out a plan if someone wanted to do it, or alternatively see if my friend wanted to take it on. I suppose we'll see if there is any interest.

1974 R90/6
1981 R80G/S
1994 XLR250R
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:08 PM   #152
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Hey Hans, how does your top clamp differ from ours for the damper? Just wondering if you've got a pic of the top clamp before install. thx
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Old 02-12-2012, 12:54 AM   #153
ontic OP
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Melbourne
Oddometer: 1,070
Hi Jenna,
there is no difference at all with the top clamp- mine is the same as yours,
there are a few things that are required to mount the damper to our bikes.

1. a pin tower thing that clamps onto the top of the steering tube on the frame (I believe Guy custom makes these?- they are a beefy stainless steel unit)
2. the pin itself that slides into the pin tower,
3. the stepped link-arm that goes onto the bottom of the damper and connects with the pin in the pin tower,
(all of this I got from Guy- plus I got the little arm puller tool required to swap arms on the damper- I'll PM you the cost of the parts I got from Guy)
this is all the lower pile of stuff under the damper

4. and then some kind of handlebar boss mount things which also mount the damper (I got lucky and got a barely used BRP submount that just happens to be a perfect fit with the Rdubb clamps)
the model that Rdubb designed the triples for is
SMO-9018P3 - 90mm spread; 18mm offset.
That is exactly what I got.
There may be other submount clamps that would work (from Scotts maybe?), I'm not sure- the spread and the offset are what to keep an eye on.
Guy can provide the correct model BRP submount- though I am not sure on price.

If you can afford to buy it all new (HPM)Guy should be able to provide absolutely everything you need for a simple plug and play installation. But with a new damper and new BRP submount, plus all the extra mounting bits, it won't exactly be cheap.

Alternatively you could go on the ebay hunt like I did. With some patience and pouncing, you should be able to find a cheaper used Scotts damper (for cheapest price expect around US$100-150 for a decent used one that is maybe missing a few mounting bits that you have to replace anyway). I watched for ages for used dampers- they often sell for a lot more than that price quoted above, but if you are patient a few bargains get offered for buy-it-now and others that are missing some of the mouting hardware go cheaper occasionally. I noticed no real trend in price difference between 'Road' and 'Off-Road' dampers (damping both ways or only away from center) aside from that sometimes there was more of one sort available (usually the sort you don't want), and sometimes prices in general were just higher or lower.
I wanted a road (damping both ways) version.
I missed out on a few cheap ones. I bought one from some guy and paypalled immediately, and he then sold it to someone else, abused me by email and then refunded my paypal. It was a bit of a saga of miscommunication and jerk-iness involving complaints to ebay and negative feedback and whatnot (my negative feedback for him stuck, and his to me got deleted)....
Finally, the last damper I bought didn't actually make it to Solo's place the first time and did a long slow tour of the USA before going back the seller and heading off again for another tour of the USA before finally arriving at Solo's

Getting the correct BRP submount you are going to have to get really lucky, even over on US ebay. I looked for ages on US ebay and never found one with the right spread and offset. I almost spilt my coffee when I found one on Oz ebay, and only 15 minutes drive away at that! And then I got it for a bargain by sniping the auction. Something had to balance out with all the bad luck I was having hunting for a damper.

Cheapest AND easiest way I reckon would be to hunt for a cheap damper unit, and then just buy everything else required (BRP submount included) from Guy. Best way, if you can stomach it, would be to just buy it all new.
Mine seems to work as it should, and unless something is leaking apparantly they are pretty sturdy, and I have looked up the details on servicing it myself and will soon be giving it an oil change (pretty simple actually and just uses 2.5W fork oil).

I'll let Guy know myself now I think about, but basically there may have been a little guesswork on his part about exactly what would work on this set up- I know he has set up Stagehand and maybe others but I am not sure if he had done a G/S before with these clamps... anyway, whatever the case Guy guessed right, so what he provided for me has worked perfectly.

I'll try to get a few more detailed photos of the damper mounting and whatnot tomorrow.

1974 R90/6
1981 R80G/S
1994 XLR250R

ontic screwed with this post 02-12-2012 at 01:02 AM
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:32 AM   #154
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So the stepped link arm and tower clamp are specific to our bikes then?

I’ve been enquiring with BRP directly about the submount clamp. I need bar clamps and a riser anyway, to fit the new triple. If my handlebar setup is “damper ready” then that’s great, even if I don’t get one straight away. But if Guy stocks these himself then I’d rather support him.
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Old 02-12-2012, 02:30 AM   #155
ontic OP
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Melbourne
Oddometer: 1,070
If I have my information correct in my head....
then the pin tower is the only piece 'specific' to our bikes. I think Guy makes these himself. They are very pretty

The rest (BRP submount, pin, stepped link-arm) are just different off-the-shelf parts that together make things work...
I don't know what happened back in the day betewen Guy and Rdubb when he designed these clamps but luckily fitting a scotts damper at some point down the track was part of those plans.
It fits!

I am not sure what Guy has on hand and what he has to order in, but he had to order in some bits from Scotts for my set up. I'd suspect he has to order in the BRP sub mount as well, not that it matters much.
If I had to buy one new then Guy would surely be getting my money as well.
I just got ebay lucky, whoohoo.

Might be worth shooting Guy an email. Maybe he could itemise out the parts required and costs for a full Scotts set-up and that information could be shared amongst those so interested?
1974 R90/6
1981 R80G/S
1994 XLR250R
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Old 02-13-2012, 04:31 AM   #156
ontic OP
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Melbourne
Oddometer: 1,070
Of course I waited till it was getting dark before trying to take a photo, so this is the only one that isn't completely blurry,
here is another angle of the damper mounting,

1974 R90/6
1981 R80G/S
1994 XLR250R
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Old 03-23-2012, 04:23 AM   #157
ontic OP
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Melbourne
Oddometer: 1,070
I've actually got things to update, but no pictures yet (need a new camera phone).
Indicator brackets are done and welded in that vertical position.
I'm getting things above the triple clamps sorted- considering what I am trying to muddle together this is requiring a bit of work,

ASV clutch (beautiful) with hot start lever hooked up to choke- for some reason the action of the asv makes this clutch feel feather lite and butter smooth- I'd previously tried a KTM domino clutch but really didn't like it.
then I've got an old magura 312 throttle- needs a bit of cleaning up and repainting but seems nice. I'd love to find a replacement throttle tube for it (preferably a billet one so that I can try a cruise control mod on it)
and of course the ktm stock brembo master cylinder/lever,

then I am sorting my switchgear and mirrors,
I've got /5 switchgear (which are just elegant and simple to me)- almost finished mounting them, and the mirrors will be mounted off the back of the switchgear mounts... complicated to explain, easy to show.
Then a simple black honda style push-button kill switch.
it is all coming together very well- although I haven't actually got to any electrical work yet, I am just trying to get things fitting first.
After all this is done I will be making some handguard/barbuster type things.

I am also going to put some mikuni 34mm roudslides on- I have the throttle and the choke hooked up now to the Bings and (aside from old sticky cables that need replacing) it seems to be working OK- but I will need to re-do this for the mikunis when I get them.

more stuff soon and pictures later sometime when the technology allows.

What I did bump this thread for was to post a link I just stumbled over-
it is one of my tanks, the Sauer 45 liter FOR SALE in Germany,
not cheap at all, but beautiful. I wanted to see what this tank looked like in black, and now I have. I may very well copy it.
I had actually just emailed Mr Sauer himself, complimenting him on his work and trying to find a bit more info about this tank and if he still makes them- then stumbled across that tank for sale.

I must say, given the price this tank is asking, and the price quoted that Sauer makes them for new, I think I got a screaming bargain buying mine even if it was dented. But, it is a beautifully made thing so I can see why it costs big dollars.

here is the link. I don't imagine these come up for sale too often.

and here are the photos I joined up for and pinched


just found another one on that forum, same price
1974 R90/6
1981 R80G/S
1994 XLR250R

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Old 03-24-2012, 05:14 AM   #158
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Tweed Valley , Northern NSW
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If you remember to Hans , a few photos of your bark busters when you do them would be appreciated .I have some on Tilly but the angle is all wrong and they don't really do much rain stopping at all.

That tank is HUGE, I thought my 24 litre GS 100 was big but that one must be half as big again ! OK, actually reading the ad it's 45 litres , more than half as big again !

hat keine Dellen und kommt, wenn Du magst, für 999 Euro plus Versand per DHL direkt zu Dir nach hause.

No dents and E990 plus postage ? or is my schoolboy German really bad ?
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:44 AM   #159
ontic OP
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Melbourne
Oddometer: 1,070
Hi Peter,
yeah sure I'll take plenty of photos of the barkbusters when I make them- I'm sorta using the HDB handgaurds as inspiration right now

Of course I'll make them a bit different and mount them differently too- rather than going off the top clamp like HDB's kinda unique system, here are the more standard mounts I have that I will use.

then some sort of removable fairing/shield like the HDB's use.

about the tank,
yeah, it is pretty huge. And yeah that listing is for €999 plus postage, same price as the other white one I linked to at the bottom of that last post of mine. From my translation of that first link apparently they are still available on a custom-order basis from Martin Sauer for €1500.

here is my one I bought, a bit dented, but also a little bit cheaper

after digging through that german forum for a while I have found a few more photos of these tanks,
considering how long it has taken me to scrounge up all these images, I might as well post them up all in the same place for others,

so, for the search engines, here are more photos of Martin Sauer 45 and 50 Liter alu/aluminum/aluminium tanks for BMW GS and G/S bikes.

here is a white 45L one
(for sale here)

here is some comparisons between the 'big' GS tank and a Sauer 50 Liter monster tanker

and here is another paint scheme

looks good from this angle

not sure if that last one is a 45L. It kinda looks like a bit like this Sauer 42L one.

I suppose being handmade, and with so many sizes around, there might be a lot of different variations in shape between different tanks.

P.S. If anyone reads this and has more nice images of these tanks then please pass them on to me. I'm kinda collecting them now.
1974 R90/6
1981 R80G/S
1994 XLR250R
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:49 AM   #160
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Location: San Francisco Bay area
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Man I have always though of chroming a regular late model R90S style tank. It would make my Hodaka tank stickers look like they were on a Super Rat! I have always thought the shapes were kinda close to each other.
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:29 AM   #161
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Tweed Valley , Northern NSW
Oddometer: 358
Great pics Hans ! All those tanks look good but um.... I really like that standard GS 100 and it inspires me to actually get around to getting my GS 100 single seat upholstered .

BTW , do you know the best place to buy the transfer on the standard GS 100 tank ? I'm working toward getting mine painted , it's a real mess .

Sibbo screwed with this post 03-26-2012 at 03:19 AM
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:23 AM   #162
ontic OP
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: Melbourne
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a bit of an update,
lots of fiddly fitting stuff-
I almost have all the controls on the handlebars sorted.
it has been challenging trying to mount and fit it all together.

Clutch is an ASV and is so lovely and smooth and light (like many things, the colour was 'chosen' because the clutch was cheap- damaged display stock)
It has a hotstart lever which is hooked up to the choke.
I am very happy with it.

then we come to the switchgear and mirror and mounts...
I've gone with /5 switchgear just because I like using them (and am used to them now from the 90/6) and because they are simple and to me rather elegant. I also never really came across anything else that tickled my fancy. Mounting them was a challenge though.
I came up against some of that bloody german efficiency! Those cast metal housings that the switches sit in have two angles of concern, they point in and down (if that makes sense)- however, rather than cast a left and right housing whose flat backs mount on the same plane and both point in and down to the same degree, what those sneaky Germans did was use the same switchgear housing and then flip them and mount them on completely different planes!
Take a look at a set of /5 switchgear next time you have the chance and you'll see what I mean.
Because my mirrors mount off the back of the switchgear clamps, what that meant was a lot of trouble getting my switchgear to line up the way it should.
Again, I am pretty happy with the results.
On the back of the mounts is a mount for a 10mm mirror stem. Currently I have a 10-8mm adapter in there to mount up my stock G/S mirrors, but this is all too fiddly and I have decided today to go with a set of Neduro's double take mirrors (which will screw straight into my 10mm threaded mirror bracket).
here is some switchgear and mirror mount action

then we get to the tricky side.
I've used the stock KTM brembo master cylinder that is matched to the two-pot brembo caliper. Then another switchgear and mirror mount and an old magura 312 throttle. This all just manages to fit together sufficiently. There is also a simple (Honda style I think?) kill switch/button to the left of the switchgear.

I really should have taken the washer off the top of the mirror adapter here- it was just there to get the height right, but is in the way of viewing.. I've had to cut a lot of the beef of the mirror mount out here to get it to fit over the master cylinder reservoir.
also, the little black adjuster for the brake lever really is that close to the throttle housing- everything barely fits, but thankfully it fits.

all up I am pretty happy with it. I can get the levers into perfect positions for me, and the switchgear position also works well with my XL hand size (small handed people might find it a stretch to reach the switches with their thumbs)- being a little further in the switchgear is nicely out of troubles way. There is a bit of butchered metal surfaces on the switchgear/mirror mounts from all the filing and stuff I've had to do and this will get smoothed and probably painted black- same with the old 312 throttle.
The /5 switchgear is simple and now inherently natural to me to use.
Nothing is wired up yet, I had to see if I could fit it first. I hope there are no huge problems wiring it up
The throttle and clutch and choke cables are fitted and working- however the cables to the carbs are going to require re-doing when I put the Mikuni VM34's on (which are coming to me ready for a choke cable).

here is the general feel of the bars. As said, I'm not happy with the stock mirrors. They will be too hard to get into the perfect position/angle, and I am too worried about them in a fall if they tear off my switchgear mounts. Better to go with Neduro's double take mirrors I think.

other things,
Neils excellent hardhead guards to replace the crash bars (only one side test fitted until I make myself a new sidestand)
They fit pretty good with the penut covers as well as the square ones.
After all that subframe and luggage frame welding, adding metal after metal, it is nice for a change to loose some weight.

I've got an extra washer on here which packs it out a bit too far. I'm going to shop around for a little bolt- maybe an allen key one with a coutersunk head? to reduce the amount the bolt sticks out.


So much more to do yet, and things move slowly.
Wiring up the switchgear will have to be next so I can give this front end a test (FINALLY).

1974 R90/6
1981 R80G/S
1994 XLR250R

ontic screwed with this post 04-14-2012 at 02:35 AM
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:29 AM   #163
Solo Lobo
airhead or nothing
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Location: Shoreline, WA
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Looking good!
"punk rocks what it's all about" - J. Strummer

Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
So I sold my GS and went shopping for a G/S!
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:28 PM   #164
Yeah, right!
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I had to get my sunglasses for a closer look at those headers :-). The bike is looking great.
R80GS Basic
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Old 04-14-2012, 02:00 PM   #165
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Nelson New Zealand
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Wow. You sure you don't want to build a set of crash bars for that tank??

That hot start lever is only for show isn't it?
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