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Old 04-14-2012, 03:06 PM   #166
Box'a'bits
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Wow. You sure you don't want to build a set of crash bars for that tank?? That hot start lever is only for show isn't it?
It's used for the choke Padmei.
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:04 PM   #167
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Thanks guys,


Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Wow. You sure you don't want to build a set of crash bars for that tank??

That hot start lever is only for show isn't it?


With 'concern', I was looking at some angles to see how the tank would fare in a tip over. If it only falls onto the heads, the tank should be fine- if it tips over the heads hopefully the handlebars hitting might save it. Once the handlebars turn to their extreme, I think the tank will be on the ground. I'll have to do some actual lay down tests some time.
Either way, I don't think the stock crash bars would have changed the picture all that much.
Maybe a simple roo-bar of sorts could be made to protect the tank... I don't know. I'll try to figure that out later.
When I am riding from home and looking to play in the dirt, I'll have the smaller G/S tank on. The big tanker will be for traveling and touring, so there will be panniers on the back as well, which will change the equation somewhat.

Short answer, yes, a simple, light (and probably 'replacable') upper crashbar for the tank has been considered if it looks like the tank will definitely dent in a tip over.
Of course, the tank came to me dented and it will probably return to that state at one time or another. It is big!

And like Box'a'bits said, the hotstart is hooked up to the choke. Fully functional. There are not a lot of good clutches with choke levers out there. And once I decided on using the ktm brembo master cylinder/lever it was just a short skip and a jump of project creep away to swap everything on the bars.
What I need to emphasise is how light and smooth this clutch lever is. It almost feels like a hydraulic clutch. On a scale of 1-10 in 'clutch hardness', my 90/6 sits on about 9- it is a real pain to use in stop and go traffic. This one (yes, lighter clutch action to start with) sits on around 2 now.

I could have just had choke levers on the mikunis, and it would eliminate a whole cable system, and is probably the smarter idea, but just because I could, I wanted the convenience of a choke at the handlebars.
Currently my choke cables are virtually seized so it is a bear to use, but it seems to give me enough cable travel to actually use effectively. The test will be on the mikunis and some new cables.


on other issues,
might as well ask.
Has anyone seen any billet replacement throttle tubes for these magura 312 throttles? (I've seen billet throttle tubes around but not yet for this throttle). It sounds like a bit of a pointless bling mod, but with a bit of modification to the throttle housing I actually would like one to try to use with a bmw friction thumb screw cruise-control thing- I don't think my idea would work with a plastic tube.
I also need a new rubber boot for the top of the throttle cable. Probably going to be a pain to locate.
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Old 04-14-2012, 10:35 PM   #168
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Looking good mate!

Like you said you can run the levers on the mikunis but for simply not having to do the choke dance I'm sure my girlfriend would love your cable set-up. I'm thinking currently for her bike some short swaging loops to help the disengagement of the choke for her (no problem for my reach). It just gets a bit much with the one foot on the ground/keeping throttle up/reaching way down to flick them off etc!

Hope the side stand is coming along for you well. I've had very little chance to get over the the chromoly place to see about some more 10mm plate. Now that were back from the shakeout I will get over there hopefully this week and see if there's anything worthwhile.
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:04 PM   #169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradern View Post
Looking good mate!

Like you said you can run the levers on the mikunis but for simply not having to do the choke dance I'm sure my girlfriend would love your cable set-up. I'm thinking currently for her bike some short swaging loops to help the disengagement of the choke for her (no problem for my reach). It just gets a bit much with the one foot on the ground/keeping throttle up/reaching way down to flick them off etc!

Hope the side stand is coming along for you well. I've had very little chance to get over the the chromoly place to see about some more 10mm plate. Now that were back from the shakeout I will get over there hopefully this week and see if there's anything worthwhile.
Thanks Neil,
I hope the shakedown went well,
when I was looking at different clutch assemblies without hot start or choke levers I was considering putting one of the older airhead magura choke set-ups on, like this

I've actually got a spare one and cables sitting around but couldn't think of a great place to put it- was probably just going to bolt it to the airbox (you're welcome to it if you want it for Clarissa's bike). At least it means only having to reach down for one lever, and it can be a lot closer than the carbs.

As it happens I am planning on trying to use as much as I can of the exact same cables for the throttle system as for the choke system, gives me a bit more built in redundancy if I need to steal parts from my choke system to fix my throttle, and less spares to carry if I carry spares. I'll probably do it like Paul has done with a longer set of lower cables and the splitters out from under the tank and somewhere up around handlebar level. I'm waiting to hear back on what different lengths are available in off-the-shelf cables for the mikunis, and will then get the shorter top single cables made to fit.

And thanks for keeping an eye out for any other chrome molly bits- I haven't progressed much on the sidestand yet. I have a friendly local metal recycler who lets me scrounge through everything and take anything steel for free (including hand tools) and occasionally he gets some very nice piles of stuff in to pick through. Lately not much steel. I've also got a friend with a good selection of random bits in his workshop that he might let me pick through. I'll be visiting him soon to get some stuff turned on his lathe and will be relying on him to help me make the sidestand hinge anyway.
I've got some reasonable mild steel that would probably do for the turnaround on that main plate- what I really need is some good material to fabricate the hinge out of.

Cheers,
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:24 PM   #170
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Shaking the bikes went well. As one would expect the Rooney specials did flawlessly and the only thing we were missing from our kit was clothes pegs... ha ha. I'm still waiting on my new shock to turn up after the first attempt was a no go. Greg from ASR has been gold on this for me. This thursday hopefully will get down to put some round black things (tck80 21"/e07 rear) on the bikes too.

Was completely unhappy with the roll bag setup on the rack (as I was the time before, and the time before that) so I've got Lachlan from MTD tours to do a couple of top boxes up for the bikes. I just keep seeing some little bugger running off down a back ally with our clothes and sleeping bags under his arm!

When I can get back into the shed for the pre-trip service (currently experiencing my once a year bout of flu) I shall investigate the option of the choke setup. Appreciate the offer and will let you know if it looks the option.

From memory the square foot of 10mm plate was about 160 rods so if you are worried I would be happy to go halvsies in another plate to lower the cost. Let me know though, as my time in the lucky country is running out! Either way I shall pop in there and see whats in the bargain bin (mmmm, cheap chromoly).

I like the sound of free scrap metal! I would be screwed... Already have a pile of welding projects to complete before we go and no hours left to do them... At this stage my prediction is that on the way to the international terminal I will swing past BOC to drop my cylinders back off!
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:06 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradern View Post
At this stage my prediction is that on the way to the international terminal I will swing past BOC to drop my cylinders back off!


Yeah, the metal recyclers is endlessly fascinating for me. I am a picker by nature I think. Nowdays we are lucky to get recyclers that will even sell you pieces let alone let you have free reign to pick and scrounge and even pull things apart like my local guy lets me
Some of the brass, bronze and copper and occasionally aluminium things that comes through are unbelievable. I try to go in there at least every few weeks and have a coffee and catch up. Anything steel he doesn't take much notice of- tools he'll put aside, everything else just goes straight into the big miscellaneous steel and rubbish skip outside.

About your local metal guys- thanks for the offer of going halves in some plate- Not cheap is it! Of course if you head in and find some good bargains that would do for the job, don't hesitate to grab them- in the meantime, I've got one more day off before I head back to work, so tomorrow I'll call around the couple of reputed places around Melbourne that stock chrome molly in various forms and see if they are worth a journey (I am hoping they have an offcuts bargain bin too). I'll also try to talk to my mate with the metal workshop- Hopefully I can find some cheap bits that would do the job locally. I'll let you know how I go.

Hope you feel better. Probably the perfect time to get the annual flu out of the way. I am way overdue for that- been about two years now, probably going to hit me like a truck when it finally does.

and yeah, getting soft luggage pinched off your bike when OS must be a bit of a concern. I reckon there would be a market for metal reinforced webbing with a basic lock incorporated- a little kit that you can sew onto soft luggage to lock it to the bike. It wouldn't need to be the way the bag was mounted/strapped down, it would just be a single strong (and even loose) locking strap that would stop a thief (or at least, considerably slow them down) after they have cut or released your tie downs.

Oh and pegs? I've got something like this but with little S hooks on the ends instead of suckers. String it up between a tree or two bikes, tuck the corner of clothes between a twist. Works very well. Would be very easy to make with some decent elastic (twist it right up, double it and let it wrap around itself, and then crimp on a hook on both ends).


Cheers,
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Old 04-15-2012, 02:57 AM   #172
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Hi Hans, that sounds like the kind of recycler to have ... we have one who used to be pretty approachable but these days he won't let me scrounge .A bit of a bugger ~ If you ever see any portlights in there think of me !

Clutches? he clutch on my ST is easy as , very smooth and i don't even notice it .i wouldn't change it . The only mod I'd like is to get rid of the neutral start only thing .It's sometimes a pain to find the green light .

She looks great mate but I'm glad you're doing it ...not me !
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:22 AM   #173
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Thanks Peter,
yeah the G/S clutch was pretty light to start with I suppose, it just feels even lighter and smoother now.

At my recyclers I have never seen any portlights or anything else marine related, but I'll keep an eye out. Plenty of lead some of it even in these cool brick type things with sharp angles that all lock in together- would make great ballast.
What I have seen are some huge brass plumbing type fittings, easily bigger than dinner plates (have no idea what industry related purpose they served), male and female, some threaded, etc. Put some of those in a lathe, braze on a hinge or two... you could make some very impressive portlights.
Even just buying them back at scrap price per weight, a lot of this stuff isn't cheap.
A tradey brought in a skip full of gutters and downpipes a few weeks ago. They were painted. Underneath... solid copper and thick too! I wonder if he charged his client for dumping it
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Old 04-15-2012, 04:52 AM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tradern View Post
Shaking the bikes went well. As one would expect the Rooney specials did flawlessly and the only thing we were missing from our kit was clothes pegs... ha ha. I'm still waiting on my new shock to turn up after the first attempt was a no go. Greg from ASR has been gold on this for me. This thursday hopefully will get down to put some round black things (tck80 21"/e07 rear) on the bikes too.

Was completely unhappy with the roll bag setup on the rack (as I was the time before, and the time before that) so I've got Lachlan from MTD tours to do a couple of top boxes up for the bikes. I just keep seeing some little bugger running off down a back ally with our clothes and sleeping bags under his arm!

When I can get back into the shed for the pre-trip service (currently experiencing my once a year bout of flu) I shall investigate the option of the choke setup. Appreciate the offer and will let you know if it looks the option.

From memory the square foot of 10mm plate was about 160 rods so if you are worried I would be happy to go halvsies in another plate to lower the cost. Let me know though, as my time in the lucky country is running out! Either way I shall pop in there and see whats in the bargain bin (mmmm, cheap chromoly).

I like the sound of free scrap metal! I would be screwed... Already have a pile of welding projects to complete before we go and no hours left to do them... At this stage my prediction is that on the way to the international terminal I will swing past BOC to drop my cylinders back off!

Hey Neil, Think these will do the trick, they will be on the TNT truck tomorrow, would have been done sooner if someone hadnt given me a dose of the flu last week ???I will see you in Sydney the end of next week.


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Old 04-15-2012, 11:01 AM   #175
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I had some late night motivation... so to get things moving along, with a pair of shears I cut off the original switchgear and got to work
Scary stuff for an electrical buffoon like me.


the whatty go where?



I'm pretty happy to say that I only let out a tiny bit of smoke once- limited entirely to the Honda kill switch 'loom', and purely because I completely failed to understand what kind of switch it was (nor even looked inside it).
No bmw parts were hurt in that little episode although the lingering smell of burned wiring in the air never quite allowed me to relax when testing things
So, I need a different sort of kill switch, one that opens the circuit when the button is pressed. In the mean time it is just all hooked up without a kill switch, just like the my 90/6- with a loop of wire ready to put a kill switch in the middle of.

Believe it or not (I have my doubts), all the main electrics work- starter and indicators, flash, hi and low, and horn. I can't really believe how easy that was. The horn had me confused for a while- having discovered it on my 90/6 already, I was prepared for the switchgear to earth the horn through the handlebars via a funny littel grub screw thing in the switchgear housing (doesn't work with anodized bars!) but I was not prepared for a gunked up stubborn button. After much head scratching and trying everything, I figured it out, cleaned out the switch, and it all works fine now.

Nothing is wired up permanently yet- I've just got the old wires hooked up into the new with crimp on terminals. Looking very ugly.
I want to do away with the clutch switch (to be lazy do I just join those two wires?) and I am not sure how I am going to get a brake light switch working off this brembo master cylinder.

But, the important thing is after a quick clean up of loose wires, (and maybe a bodgy bit of duct taping the headlight and front indicators on ) I'll be ready for my first (motored) test run.
Can't wait,
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Old 04-15-2012, 02:01 PM   #176
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What does the bottom of the brake m/c look like?
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:19 PM   #177
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Here is the bottom of the master cylinder




I had in the past done a fair bit of googling to see if there was switches for this- came up with very little.
I haven't read the best things about hydraulic switches.

There are two little holes on the back of the lever hinge- my firtst thoughts were that there must be a cam-lobe thing on the back of the lever so if you put a switch in that hole, moving the lever would move the switch in and out. No suck luck, the profile of the back of the lever is virtually smooth and across its full movement doesn't push in or out if you put a feeler into that hole.

My next thought was to build/modify a little switch.
I mispelled 'switch' and couldn't be bothered fixing it.

Here is the idea,
the switch sits between the master cylinder casting and rests up against that protruding end of the lever. Pull the lever in, that protruding end moves away, and in moving away it closes the circuit in the switch and turns the brake light on.
To mount the switch there would be a little plate of some kine with a dowel into that center hole and a nut and bolt through the lower hole.
Does that makes sense?



Of course I have no idea of where to start making a tough durable waterproof switch that closes the circuit when the switch opens though.

I eagerly await an easier solution!
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Old 04-16-2012, 02:02 AM   #178
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That to me looks like a pretty easily solved situation.
I just had a look at Schmidt & the KLR lever I used on it, & my DRZ have nearly identical little micro switches. They will be a common part at any bike shop I'd say.
They are both mounted with one screw. The only difference between my ones is the mounting position of the switch.

DRZ




KLR ones on Schmidt.





As you may remember I gutted all the electrics off Schmidt as there was a ridiculous amount of superflous stuff in there & rewired with a skeleton loom. There were a few things that had me second guessing. Hope this helps
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Old 04-16-2012, 03:00 AM   #179
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Thanks Padmei,
yeah that does help, a lot.
Now i just have to find a microswitch that will work. I wonder if there is an off the shelf one for this master cylinder? Google time again.

on other news I did the rounds again looking for some chrome moly to finish gathering materials for my sidestand. Neil provided me most of what I need for it, but I still needed something to construct the hinge out of.

Once again, Melbourne has proven very hard to locate this metal.
Oh well, off to my scrap metal guy again.
Today one of the stainless skips was full of some interesting stuff.

this was the results of a quick rummage- the calipers are on some 10mm plate there. (I left the BIG stock in the skip)



The end result was that I cut a foot or more off a lot of different stock (at $2.50 per Kg). Not bad, and plenty of different bits of stainless to use on the hinge for the sidestand. I'll be mixing chrome moly and stainless but it will be so over-engineered it should be fine. I suppose the advantage of a stainless hinge is that it won't rust once the paint is worn off..

not a bad (very heavy) box for $20 (the mild steel in top right was free). I'll use a tiny bit of it for this sidestand, and no doubt end up carting the rest of it around for 20 years or so

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Old 04-16-2012, 07:11 AM   #180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontic View Post
Thanks Padmei,

Now i just have to find a microswitch that will work. I wonder if there is an off the shelf one for this master cylinder?
If I were you, I'd just get one of those banjo bolts with a built in pressure switch. It looks like your banjo bolt is oriented such that you have room for it. Anytime the line gets pressurized (you applying the brakes) it turns your brakelight on. That would take out the variable of switch travel vs. lever travel vs. brake engagement. They aren't even that pricey.

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