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Old 04-16-2012, 07:02 AM   #181
ontic OP
 
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Thanks for the suggestion AW, the first time I looked into it I'd gathered a bit of a bad opinion on the hydraulic switches. A lot of hits on the searches coming up with negative things to say. The hydraulic switch on my under-tank 90/6's master cylinder is also pretty lousy. You really have to crank down on the brakes (and for a 90/6 that is saying something!) for the light to come on.

I've just started looking into again, read a couple of threads here, and this time I've read a lot more positive experience. Maybe the technology has moved forward a little bit.
Your'e right, it would be a very easy solution.

I just double checked on the master cylinder- the banjo bolt would be pointing up and towards me from underneath the bars.
I'm thinking a right angle one like this would be a little better as it will imediately line the cable up with the handlebars for better routing out of the way


and your right again, they are plenty cheap enough.
From my quick googling it seems that brembo banjos should be M10x1.0
I think I'll give it a try.
Cheers,

P.S. If anyone wants to suggest a simple and nice and small kill switch that simply breaks a circuit when depressed then I'm all ears. I could even use a clicking simple on off switch such as might be used for a light. Might take a really dumb thief a few minutes to figure out
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Old 04-16-2012, 07:37 AM   #182
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ontic View Post
I've just started looking into again, read a couple of threads here, and this time I've read a lot more positive experience. Maybe the technology has moved forward a little bit.
I don't have any personal experience with them, but I believe Roadsacallin used one for his front brake. At this point he's got a lot of miles on the setup so, he'll probably have an opinion to offer.
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:40 AM   #183
Sibbo
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Gawd! wouldn't I like a recycler like that nearby !

For chrome moly, you might try a bicycle frame builder or the light aircraft guys.
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Old 04-17-2012, 03:16 AM   #184
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4130

Hey Hans,

Both Clarissa's bike and mine run the hydraulic brake switch set-up. I'm almost positive that Paul's been running them for sometime now on his builds. Now - I can say that the only downfall I've noticed thus far is that it can take a bit more than light finger pressure to get it to fire the light up. This annoys me as thus. As with the wonderful engine braking we have available, normally a slight drag/setup on the front brake would warn the person behind me of my slowing down. I've ended up changing my old habit to the rear brake also now for better brake light activation.

Popped into Performance metals today for some 10mm plate (or 9.7mm something or other) and no joy. One of my good friends went searching for anything of use but all I ended up getting was a slightly not parallel piece of similar size to the laser cut piece I sent you. To top it off some bugger had bought the entire off-cut/cheapy pile of 6061 and 4130... I was devastated. Absolutely devastated.

Needless to say I walked out of there with some more tube to have machined up for some new front axle spacers. After investing heavily in three sets of wheel bearings and seals for each bike I figured it would pay off having some nice new spacers (4130 flavour as its my favourite) for the seals to run on.

Locky - the wunderbar top-boxes arrived today! Wow. That was quick. Thanks again. You've given Clarissa some quality sticker real-estate now!
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:31 AM   #185
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Hey Neil,
yeah, that was my concern with the hydraulic switch but it doesn't sound too bad. My 90/6 one only lights up with a fistful of brakes. If I have vehicles of concern behind me I have gotten into the habit of using my rear brake when I normally might not have done, just to make sure the brake light is on. Kinda silly, but the modern switches don't sound nearly as bad as that so I think I'll be perfectly happy with them.

Thanks for looking at your metal place. Bummer they didn't have what you (and I) were after.
Until I manage to make it in to my mates metal workshop where I hope to actually make the important parts I am just going to keep looking around. If I can't find any suitable chrome moly before then I guess we'll just pick the best metal on hand.
And I should probably make up some axle spacers too- the stock ones that came with this front end are pretty worn.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibbo View Post
Gawd! wouldn't I like a recycler like that nearby !
Yeah, good fun eh?
Like I said, I can't believe some of the stuff that comes through. If I'd come in next week instead of yesterday, then all that potentially useful stainless bar and plate stock probably would have already been moved on along it's way towards China for melting down (). It pays to wander in through this place on a frequent basis.

About the chrome moly, I've got some lovely tube that will do for the stand part of the side stand and a lazer cut bit of 10mm plate that will bolt to the bike frame (both thanks to Neil).
What I need is a small bit of 10mm-ish plate and a little chunk (around 30mm diameter to start with?) of solid bar to make/machine the knuckle for the hinge out of. I've called around Melbourne and haven't had any luck locating this stuff. I've found where I can get tube and sheet from but nothing anything close to what I need (plus most places that actually sell it have $100 or more minimum purchase). The best place seems to be an aircraft metals place (would have been good when I was looking for tube for my subframe)

I need to find someone who makes stuff with chrome moly- roll cage places maybe? Just need a couple of offcuts.

Another thought was to figure out what parts of a car (or any other such thing that I could easily get scrap from) are commonly made of chrome moly or some other nice steel that would be good. Gearbox internals? Axles, etc? I have read that some gears are commonly 4130 or maybe 4150. I've got a bucket of useless gears and gear shafts and drive shaft flanges from my landcruiser transfer case rebuild I did a while ago- more than enough metal there that would work just fine.
Anneal it to cut and work it, and then harden it...?
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:11 PM   #186
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Bike as in bicycle frames Hans.. the good ones are chrome moly, find a bike frame builder.
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:35 AM   #187
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Hi Peter,
Yeah, one of my mates is making bicycle frames- he has nothing of use to me as far as Chrome moly goes (he has lots of random chunks of steel, mostly unknown kinds) and has no idea of where to get what I want (he suggested maybe using a tool steel as it will be easier to come by). Neither does the aircraft metals place. Melbourne seems a little hard for this. The problem is that these last couple of bits I am after I want in pretty heavy gauge. (10mm plate and a good chunk 30+mm for machining)- sizes that no bicycle maker (who down here are all making super light weight minimal 'fixies') would be using).
The place Neil uses in Sydney seems to have the best range but I need to start watching my spending a bit.

Of course there is no real need for this to be Chrome Moly, but it just seems a shame to start putting mild steel into the mix after getting most of what I need from Neil in Chrome moly- especially for the all-crucial hinge.
Unless I can find somewhere with an offcuts bin that has what I need, I am actually pretty keen to try to recycle some metal for this. Not just to avoid spending money, but because I think there will be plenty of good stuff at my fingertips that will do the job.
I have 3 huge metal recyclers within 5 minutes drive of me- it can't be all that hard to find something that would be a good enough alloy steel for this purpose.

I did a bit of googling the other night trying to find out what kind of steels gearbox/T-case internals are usually made of. (as, like I said, I have the complete internals of a Landcruiser t-case taking up space in my shed)
The cast gears may not be so good for me, apparently, but the shafts have more potential. I need to look further into it.
I think at the very least I am going to do some experiments with some of the components. I'll anneal them and take them in to play on the lathe and do some hardening tests as well.

I'm going to look a bit further into it tonight.


EDIT-
spent a bit of time looking into recycling and using steels- searching through the forging forums and whatnot. What a minefield! Without proper analysis it would appear the only advisable thing would be to source a known type of steel. Anything else is just guesswork at best.
The hunt will continue, though I may still play with some of the interesting steel I have at hand.
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:57 PM   #188
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I'm not sure about steel offcuts specifically but if you want to get any aircraft bits go down to Moorabbin airport and have a wander around Hanger 9...literally, its hanger number 9 (no other signage). They will let you scrounge through all manner of stuff, mostly past its shelf life for use on aircraft, so generally pretty cheap. Just don't buy nuts and bolts...they use all weirdo threads and fit nothing that's supposed to stay on the ground.
You might get lucky, they do some fabrication down there too so steel might be lying around.
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Old 04-20-2012, 01:48 AM   #189
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If you just want good steel that has lots of tensile strength my cheepie suggestion is spring steel, if your scrappy has a bin from a spring works it will be full of good sizes .It's amazing stuff but you might need a good rod to weld it... ask around.

Re the chrome moly, I thought you were after super light ... my mistake . If you ever see a 900x50mm length of thin wall , say1mm, chrome moly tubing I'll buy it ! Projects, projects.... a recumbent bicycle in my case.
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:41 AM   #190
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http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/...130tubing.html

These guys seem to have everything.
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Old 04-20-2012, 09:06 AM   #191
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Thanks Larry, Hanger 9 sounds very interesting.

Peter, I've got to go hit some other metal recyclers and see what they say. My guy (and most of the friendly little ones) doesn't really deal in steel unless it is stainless but there are big outfits near me that do. Main concern is that they are too big and most likely won't want to deal with the public. I'm also going to just go for a cruise around my local industrial area and ask in person- there are quite a few specialist and fabrication type places around me.

I keep wishing to find a solid description of a good reliable source of scrap 4130.

Beemerboff,
those guys look pretty good. They've got the rod I'd need, but again not the plate in thick enough gauge. I am getting one more box sent over from the states soon, so it is kinda feasible that I could squeeze a couple of small bits of Chrome Moly in and get it sent , but it just seems so ridiculous to have to do this! I am happy to do this with parts and other products, but raw materials??
Given where I am living, I feel certain that exactly what I need is within a half dozen Km. Finding it, from somewhere that will sell it to me, will be the trick.
Monday I'll have time to do the rounds and look into this again.
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:47 PM   #192
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Quote -but it just seems so ridiculous to have to do this! I am happy to do this with parts and other products, but raw materials??
\
I know the feeling, but I just received a parcel from England containing SS tube, aluminium flat, etc ,etc .

I couldnt find anyone in Oz who had stock or seemed interested in my business, and what little I could find was twice the price, with ridiculous postal charges.

These Spruce guys have an agent in Moorabin - wonder if they could get the Oddesy batteries in at the US price - around a third of the cost Oz price--------.
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:19 AM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemerboff View Post
I know the feeling, but I just received a parcel from England containing SS tube, aluminium flat, etc ,etc .

I couldnt find anyone in Oz who had stock or seemed interested in my business, and what little I could find was twice the price, with ridiculous postal charges.

These Spruce guys have an agent in Moorabin - wonder if they could get the Oddesy batteries in at the US price - around a third of the cost Oz price--------.

This is absurd, but I see what you mean.
I've just been looking through this site
http://www.onlinemetals.com/index.cfm

very nice.

The actual complete list of metal stock I require is a bit larger than I have mentioned already, and that place will do just about everything I require- and the prices are excellent. They cut to order and have no minimum order.

The only thing I still can't find on a range of online sellers including that one, unless I am just looking in the wrong places, is some 10mm plate or flat bar Chrome Moly (4130 is what I am looking at primarily).
I could probably cut what I need out of some of the large rod I need to get, but that seems a bit silly.
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Old 04-26-2012, 03:29 AM   #194
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I updated the unholy union thread but not this one,

Finally took the new front end for a test ride yesterday.
Height isn't set, sag isn't set, oil isn't checked, it was very wet and cold, things were held on with electrical tape, but it was time to try it out.



With these unshortened forks, my stock centerstand makes a great sidestand on the flat, and the stock sidestand works well on a hill D





Obviously I need to go through these forks and set them up right, most notably I have some stiction I have to figure out, but considering all this, the front end felt remarkably good. My .6kg/mm springs feel perfect for me (nice and firm now with no load on the bike and a near empty small tank, but not too firm, and feels like they will be very nice when the bike is loaded down).

I hit the brutal speed bumps on my street as fast as the wet conditions, the knobby front tyre, and my neighbourly sense of goodwill would allow, and the front WP50's and the rear Ohlins made the lightest work of them. Didn't even have to rise off the pegs. Solid yet soft.
At those speeds, the old G/S forks and crapped out Ikon rear shock would have first felt like the forks were flexing, would have felt both spongier but also more brutal with the front hit, and then after the rear tyre hit the bump it would have nearly bottomed out and then thrown me out of my seat.
But comparing the new Ohlins to the leaking and non-damping Ikon is not very fair, and no doubt that was making the G/S forks feel even worse.

The brakes with the 320mm rotor, my own caliper bracket creation, and the KTM stock brembo master cylinder and caliper work marvelously.



new spacer/sleeve turned up out of some good quality steel. Fits perfect and everything lines up exactly like it should.




A lot of my laps up and down my local streets I was just working the brakes a lot, trying not to skid the front tyre (way too easy with that knobby motorcross tyre in the wet) and checking out the whole brake set-up for any flex or any other signs of trouble. Solid as a rock. I think the set up is fine.
Two fingers would easily lock the front wheel so for me that is plenty of brakes- as anything more would make it a bit worrying in the wet (like I was riding in). I think it will be exactly what I want in the dry with grippy tyres.


I like the magura 312 throttle a lot- even with sticky old cables and a rag taped on with electrical tape as a temporary grip
Unfortuately switchgear location is not so great. It felt fine when just sitting on the bike, but while working the throttle at the same time the indicator is a little too difficult to operate- I'll bring them in closer to the grips a little bit more- which means a lot more fiddling- probably some aluminium welding on those mounts I fabricated.

What else...?


the lowered white brothers pegs are fantastic. I love them. The handlebars are great for me, single seat is excellent, and in general the ergonomics feel perfect for me. The ASV clutch is gorgeous and the way I have cobbled together the spacing for the stock G/S cable puts me in a good window of adjustment. I've got another set of the same bars (Renthal twinwalls) but in a different bend (and colour) that I will need to compare but for now these ones feel good.
The bike currently feels quite tall. The forks need to be shortened, and even with the 50mm rear end extension they won't need to be this long.

I'm also working towards getting my other set of triple clamps ready to compare to these ones. They have a smaller offset at the clamps, which combined with the offset at the axle will give me a closer to stock G/S geometry.

So that is about it for the moment.
I am very happy with the front end and my changes on the handlebars, and everything else, so far.
I'm looking forward to speeding up the build a bit more. This weekend is all booked in.
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Old 04-26-2012, 06:11 AM   #195
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Hey, sorry I spaced yesterday for wheel pics.

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So the wheel was originally off center by 4mm to the right from the front view.

And my other project....

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