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Old 05-25-2011, 06:01 AM   #1
Skippii OP
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Richmond, Va
Oddometer: 6,480
Wicked My own LFCO thread, because I'm always late.

I'm a Cat Herder, what can I say?
Yeah, I was at the Laurel Fork campout a few weeks ago. And then my camera was stolen on the return trip by a 18-month old adorable girl, only to recover it a few weeks later from her toy chest.
So, finally, here are the pics.

Now, as some of you know, Spring Laurel Fork is when I ride the Thundercunt.
Last year I built it and rode it there just to make everybody milkshakes.


There were many words used to describe my bike, but "ridable" was not one. "Terrifying" was used a few times by people who tried it though. See here. One of the steering bearing didn't fit right, and the front end would shake like hell and abruptly shift rearwards whenever you hit the brakes. So, towards the end of 2010, I parked the bike in the shed and stripped it down completely to address a few of the major problems, and make a few aesthetic changes.

Among the list of other problems that had occurred throughout the season,
Clutch cable had broken.
Handlebars had snapped.
Throttle assembly had broken.
HID Headlight had died.
Front brake would lock up on its own if it got hot.
Kickstand broke.
The D&D (Disruptive & Deafening?) muffler fell off in a national park sometime.

And many, many other things.
Replacement parts were ordered, and most of them didn't quite fit. Most annoying was that the new handlebars were taller than the dirt ones, and new clutch and throttle cables had to be made, as well as all the wiring extended.

Anyway, pics! Making the cables:
I have no idea what kind of lube one is supposed to use.


I have no idea how one is supposed to solder the ends, either. I figure acid core solder, some plumbing flux, and a 230-watt soldering gun should do the job.








Next step: Extend all the wiring so it will reach the controls on the Ape Hangers, and make the Suzuki controls compatible with the Kawasaki wiring harness, using 8-conductor intercom cable from Home Depot.



















Around this time, my soldering iron gave up and died.
Dammit! I took it apart, and confirmed that the heating coil had indeed burnt up. Not really possible to repair that.


..or is it????

Before:



And 20 minutes later, a fully functional soldering iron again!!!!














Okay, I was king of joking about the blowtorch. Yeah, I made that thing, but I own about 5 or 6 different soldering irons, and just used one of the other ones. But I DID try it, and it DOES work. It's just not really the ideal solution.

The plumbing pipe crash guards around the engine didn't work too well (at all) so I'm giving up on the steampunk style and going for solid steel.



Just a little notch in the end:


And carefully arrange everything securely in place to be welded.


Next up: New front brake master cylinder!
Ah, the joy of bleeding brakes. I've posted my method before, but as far as I know, I'm the only one who does it, so here's the tutorial with pics from this bike.

Step one: Hot glue two vinyl hoses to the top of a Gatorade bottle.


Step two: If you don't have the right size tubing, make some adaptors with hot glue.


Step 3: One hose goes to the carburetor vacuum line. The other goes to the nipple of the brake slave cylinder (the bleeder nipple).






Step 4: Climb on a chair so you can reach the damn master cylinder on those Ape Hangers.


Step 5. Thumb the starter while pouring new DOT4 into the master cylinder. You should pull the spark leads or something first to stop the bike from actually running...it tends to go too fast then.

The brake fluid is collected in the bottle, but never sucked into the carbs. It's so easy, I can't imagine doing it any other way.


I was never all that happy with the way the metalflake turned out (actually, I was mostly the clear finishing that annoyed me), so I decided to strip everything and repaint.
Using a metal wire brush in an angle grinder to strip the gas tank made me a bit nervous, but nothing exciting happened amongst the sparks. Well, except for discovering that the previous owner must have put a hell of a dent in the tank, then covered it with bondo. Of course, I pretty much ripped all that out with the angle grinder, so I had to take a break and fill it back in with Bondo:




Speaking of the gas tank, you know those stupid rubber things that the gas tank goes on? I lost one, and am far too cheap to buy a new one.


Bondo:


Lube up the remaining rubber bit:


Shove it into the bondo before it sets:


Wait 15 minutes, then use needle-nose pliers to pull it out.




I'm not sure there are any parts of this bike's construction that don't involve hot glue:


After a minute, drop a bit of string in the glue:




While you're waiting for the glue to set, clean off the nice screwdriver you used to mix the bondo:



That was easy.


Glue set? Good. Gently pull on the string.



Awesome.
The most is still good, too.


Let's make a spare, and experiment with a different lube.






I love it when things go as planned.




Trim off the strings:






Typically, I would forget to take a pic of how perfectly it fit on the bike. You'll just have to take my word for it.

Okay, on to the exhaust. For those who missed my previous experiences with exhausts that went viral (40,000 views in 3 days), lets just say that exhausts are the bane of my existence.
So, new muffler. Here's 50% of the stocker from a ZZR1200, which I cut up in half to make it smaller.








.


.


Nicely trimmed here so it will be the perfect size to fit inside of...







And then I brazed it all together and added a tea-ball spark arrestor, and forgot to take any pics of the finished product, as I always seem to do. It's a little loud, but not nearly as loud as the D&D was. People were surprised when I told them that there was an actually muffler inside, and it wasn't just an empty can. While that might be in line with some of the mods I've done in the past, that would be far too simple for me!

Next problem: I have no choke cable. Well, I have some cable making parts, and a cheap pen. Well..maybe it's not a problem.



Choke OFF:



Choke ON--the wire is held at the end of the pen tube.


Then, as I prepare to leave, I fill up the gas tank and gas pours out around the petcock. I can't remember if I used fiberglass resin or epoxy, but I remember using a heatlamp to get it to set up quicker, and wondering how safe it is to stick a heatlamp on a tank full of gasoline. Whatever. It worked.


Finally, get that all set, and get the bike outside, and hit the starter. And....nothing happens. It was running like 10 FREAKING MINUTES AGO!!!
After a lot of troubleshooting, I conclude that my starter relay/solenoid has gone bad. No idea why. Dammit. Eventually, I just grab some 12/3 conductor copper wire

(excess from wiring up the workshop), and bypass the switch by connecting the starter motor straight to the battery. It works, though it makes a nice big spark when you connect them. I just left the wires poking out from under the seat, with screw cap connectors on the ends to prevent unwanted shorting or starting.

Last step: Use a conduit ground clamp to make a camera attachment!

Yes, that is a part of a sock --don't want to scratch the chrome!


The camera actually died for a while when a fly got stuck in the zoom lense.



So...on to the ride pics!
First, gotta make sure it's much more stable this year...and it is!


Here's a pic of Mike (HBN) with his BMW and his girlfriend. Unfortunately, he wouldn't let me ride either one.
He did take TC for a short spin, though.











Okay, apperently I'm not good at remembering to take pics of the actual LFCO...so I'll steal some from other people. I mentioned before that the HID headlight had broken. Apparently, it's just not very waterproof...when I removed the ballast, water was dripping out of it. Once I dried it off, it worked again, and was replaced on the bike after thoroughly wrapping it in cling film, duct tape, and (of course!) hot glue.
So the HID is now my low beam, and the high beam switch, instead of switching to a different bulb, now additionally activates the two 55w halogen fog lights.
It would be a simple circuit to do this electronically, but since my horn had also broken, I just wired the low beam to the horn (which is a positive ground on these bikes), so when you also ground it normally, the low beam is on whenever the bike is running.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XCrider
Quote:
Originally Posted by michub



You can barely see it in this pic, but that's a CCL (Cold Cathode Light) on the back of my bike. I'd bought a bunch of them years ago to pimp out my Unicycles, and had this one left over. Here's what it looks like on the unis--wish I had a better pick of it on the bike, but it looks just the same.




As a certified massage therapist, I always feel obligated at these campouts to help out everyone who's got sore muscles after a day of riding. Which, as you can imagine, is everyone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HBN
On sunday morning, I had bike problems. I still have no idea what the problem was, but it would NOT start. Choke on, choke off, drained the float bowls to make sure they were not flooded, checked the killswitch about 20 times (All other 'safety' features, like the kickstand switch and stuff are long gone), tried everything I could think of, but nothing worked, until finally the battery died. I'm pretty damn impressed it lasted as long as it did, though--several minutes of cranking. It's the battery I took out of my former V-strom 1000, though, so I on the other hand, just having been installed on a V-strom should make it pretty much invincible.

One of the other guys, party boss, then gave me a jump from his bike with his special motorcycle jumper cables, seen here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by HBN
These motorcycle jumper cables are, unfortunately, completely fucking useless for jumpstarting, because they're FUSED with a 7.5 amp fuse. Since a bike starter uses about 50 amps, these "Jumper" cables are apparently for battery charging ONLY. After a hitting the starter without thinking too much then noticing there was no more current, I replaced the fuse with a spare I had and returned the cables, and walked over to one of the trailers an unaffiliated party had at the far end of the campsite. I borrowed some big REAL cables from him, and someone else (a fellow ADVer this time who'd come on his truck) came and gave me a boost. It started right up this time.
Still no idea what this issue was, but I was happy to have her purring (okay, fine...I had a leek in the Maxwell House coffee can I'd used as a muffler, so it was more like a deafening roar) and let a few of the guys still around take Thundercunt for a spin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HBN

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Oh, who am I kidding? You don't want pics! You want video!

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Skippii screwed with this post 05-25-2011 at 09:49 AM
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:17 AM   #2
SirWrecksAlot
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Awesome!
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:50 AM   #3
Skippii OP
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Richmond, Va
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Okay, just added about 30 or 40 more pics!
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:34 PM   #4
bwalsh
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Skippii, you never disappoint!
Best LF RR I've seen even though half of it should be in the garage section and the other half was someone else's RR pics.
Oh, that's right you did have the video and commentary...
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Old 05-27-2011, 02:53 PM   #5
Skippii OP
Hookers, my lad.
 
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Richmond, Va
Oddometer: 6,480
Quote:
Originally Posted by bwalsh View Post
Skippii, you never disappoint!
Best LF RR I've seen even though half of it should be in the garage section and the other half was someone else's RR pics.
Oh, that's right you did have the video and commentary...
Yeah, I'm really bad at remembering to take pics of the actual event. Also it didn't help that it was dark when I arrived, and I got a gnat stuck in my camera lense the next morning.
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