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Old 05-25-2011, 09:02 AM   #1
g r a n t OP
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1150GS tools for seating seals

Hi. I am using my iPhone today for this forum. Thus, I am finding it tricky to do a proper search.
I am about to delve into replacing the input shaft seal and main seals on my 1150Gs.
I have seen a few ideas for DIY tools for seating the seals. Does anyone have specific dimensions or illustrations of their tools to share?
Alternately, does anyone have the BMW tools they could sketch up and dimension? Thanks in advance!
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:20 AM   #2
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Which input seal ?.

Which main seal, the rear crank seal ?
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Old 05-25-2011, 11:03 AM   #3
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If you are talking about FD input seal you need a KD Tools 2467 socket or a similar socket to take the old seal out.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R4...All-Categories

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Old 05-25-2011, 12:17 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe View Post
Which input seal ?.

Which main seal, the rear crank seal ?
Hi.
Transmission Input Shaft seal (facing clutch)

The two main seals at the crank. I understand there is an outer and inner seal on my '00 GS.

Thanks.
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:21 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g r a n t View Post
Hi.
Transmission Input Shaft seal (facing clutch)

The two main seals at the crank. I understand there is an outer and inner seal on my '00 GS.

Thanks.
Dont know about any "cheap do it yourself tool builds" on the rear mains but here's my experience:
I've used the BMW tool to do the job right the 2nd time after not using it the first time.
First time without bmw's tool I ending up finding out that inner seal didn't seat properly and was leaking oil again (which was why i was there the in the first place). I didn't get to discover this till after the test ride once it was all back together
Re did with the BMW tool: easier and did the job right.

That being said considering the work involved in having to do it over.... It's WELL worth the price of the tool.
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Old 05-26-2011, 02:55 AM   #6
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Quote:
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Dont know about any "cheap do it yourself tool builds" on the rear mains but here's my experience:
l.
Coke can with the end cut off. The perfect diameter, slides inside the seal, insert into the engine, remove can.

Gearbox Input shaft seal just requires a long socket of the correct diameter
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Old 05-26-2011, 05:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steptoe View Post
Gearbox Input shaft seal just requires a long socket of the correct diameter
Steptoe,
Does the input shaft seal seat on something or do you need to mark the socket to achieve a specific depth when inserting the new seal?
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Steptoe,
Does the input shaft seal seat on something or do you need to mark the socket to achieve a specific depth when inserting the new seal?
Transmission input shaft seal doesn't have a seat, so you need to install it square and to the right depth. When I do it, I measure the installation depth of the old seal and install the new one (with plastic pipe or equal) to the same depth. Your installation tool isn't critical, it just needs to allow you to tap the seal in without cocking it or scratching the shaft.

P.S. I put a little tape on the spline teeth to prevent nicking of the seal surface. I don't know how critical this is, but I do it anyway out of paranoia.
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Old 05-26-2011, 03:58 PM   #9
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Thanks Grok. Any tips on the easiest way to remove the old seal?
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:20 PM   #10
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Thanks Grok. Any tips on the easiest way to remove the old seal?
I just used a small allen key held with vice grips (not the best idea). Anything you can get in there and hook the outer lip and pull will work. Just be very careful not to scratch the shaft or bugger the bore. You probably could modify the otherwise worthless tire plug installation tool to do the job
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:26 PM   #11
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I just used a small allen key held with vice grips (not the best idea). Anything you can get in there and hook the outer lip and pull will work. Just be very careful not to scratch the shaft or bugger the bore. You probably could modify the otherwise worthless tire plug installation tool to do the job
So the approach is from the outer rim versus the inner rim next to the shaft?
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Old 05-26-2011, 07:30 PM   #12
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So the approach is from the outer rim versus the inner rim next to the shaft?
No you install the tool next to the shaft and rotate it so it catches the outer rim before you pull. You need something smooth with a bend or hook on the end. Honestly you could probably just push on the seal (on one side) and it would rock enough to grab it. But it's probably better to use a hook.
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Old 05-26-2011, 08:22 PM   #13
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7 Piece Pick and Hook Set - $8.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...set-93958.html



4 Piece Mini Pick and Hook Set - $2.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-66836.html



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Old 05-27-2011, 07:32 AM   #14
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Poolside and Grok,
Thanks for the advise. One last question. I and a friend changed my clutch because of a slave cylinder failure at 31,000 miles (new clutch disc, diaphragm spring, housing cover, pressure plate, slave cylinder and felt ring on pushrod). At 42,000 miles it began slipping in 5th and 6th gears under hard acceleration. I've put another 3,000 miles on it and it hasn't gotten much worse, but I've purchased all the parts and am about to tear it apart to find out why this happened (no evidence of an oil or clutch fluid leak). I have the seals for the input shaft and pushrod.
My question is at 45,000 miles if when I disassemble it I find that we put too much grease on the input shaft splines and a new clutch disc is all that is needed would you still go ahead and replace the input shaft seal? And are there other seals I should replace besides the drive shaft seal where the slave cylinder sits?
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Old 05-27-2011, 08:08 AM   #15
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If your issue is a contaminated clutch disc, then no, you should be good with just replacing the disc itself.

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