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Old 05-05-2005, 03:05 PM   #61
Poolside OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by configurationspace
I'm at bentspoke's and we're measuring right now.

C=2.885"

B=0.717"

A=2.030"

Let me know if you want any other measurements. The C measurement might be off by a couple thousandths of an inch, but the others are accurate to the thousandth.
That's great Config. Thank you!

Did you know the price of the new tensioner has risen to $280?!

- Jim

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Poolside screwed with this post 09-06-2005 at 09:50 AM
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Old 05-05-2005, 07:57 PM   #62
configurationspace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside
That's great Config. Thank you!

How is the installation going? If I am not too late, I would like a couple of more dimensions if you please.

Did you know the price of the new tensioner has risen to $280?!

- Jim



Argh, that's too bad. We finished the installation just about the time you responded. The installation went fine. Did that, and bentspoke welded on my tailpipe (which went well) and I "fixed" an electrical problem that I was having with my fog lights. Only problem is I created another one at the same time... grr, hopefully this weekend I'll have time to fix this one. I'll pay closer attention to which is the ground and which is the power lead next time...

By the way, here's a pic inside my throttlebody at 30,000 miles:


configurationspace screwed with this post 05-05-2005 at 08:33 PM
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:33 PM   #63
Poolside OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by configurationspace
Argh, that's too bad. We finished the installation just about the time you responded.

By the way, here's a pic inside my throttlebody at 30,000 miles . .
Ah well, thanks just the same.

Man, it almost looks like you just cleaned inside that throttle body.

- Jim

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Old 05-05-2005, 09:35 PM   #64
configurationspace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside

Ah well, thanks just the same.

Man, it almost looks like you just cleaned inside that throttle body.

- Jim
I rode about 60 miles to get to bentspoke's place, and just before leaving I put a can of ventilsauber in the tank -- maybe that did it.
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Old 05-07-2005, 12:24 PM   #65
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Now I think I understand why Poolside mentioned this step.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside

You will need another special tool.





Make a hangar out of the wire and suspend the throttle body and intake manifold out of the way.



If you just let the throttlebody hang from the throttle cable, you might unseat the cable housing on both ends of the cable. It's easy to notice when the cable is unseated on the throttlebody end -- you can just see it. But it's harder to see it on the other end.

After doing the cam chain tensioner my bike ran a fair bit rougher. At first I just thought it needed a throttlebody adjustment, but I couldn't turn the air screws enough to compensate for how far out of adjustment were. A little fussing with the cables and it popped back into place again, and everything was fine.
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Old 05-14-2005, 02:27 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside
This is how the components fit together.



The smaller floating piston can also be dropped into the bore, but unless the smaller piston lands right, it will be sideways or upside down in the bore. To make assembly easier, a coat of grease on the smaller piston will hold it in the tensioner body.
Just did this upgrade, verrrrry nice results. A comment on the picture above. This is the right orientation. Don't put the smaller floating piston in the other way, make sure the smaller end of the piston is on top, at the "bolt" end of the tensioner body. The smaller end of the piston has breather holes in it, and the tensioner body also has a breather hole. The way needs to be clear for these breathers to function.

I'm no expert, it just seemed to make more sense this way.
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Old 06-17-2005, 05:20 PM   #67
canike
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sweet....thanks again, Poolside

Bought the new tensioner a few months ago. When I bought it, the dealer (small dealership, it was the owner) hadn't heard of the problem or wasn't letting the cat out of the bag. "Huh - look at that - there IS a new part number...they changed it....wonder why?"

Anyway, just did the deed. Had the laptop on a milkcrate by my side, looking at Poolside's wonderful pictures. The bike is sooo much quieter now. Thanks all!
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Old 06-28-2005, 03:38 PM   #68
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Prices

Have I miss-read the thread or are the tensioners really 200 USD?

I'm collecting the RH tensioner for my '99 1150GS tomorrow and paying about 25 UKP.

I'll be fitting it myself. Anything to watch for?


Rgds Richard
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Old 08-06-2005, 12:56 PM   #69
yelostn78
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hey i ordered these parts

11 31 7 688 629
11 31 7 656 922
07 11 9 963 308

I got them today and I have the spring loaded piston, the new outer body with the copper gasket, i did not get the smaller black piston, is it needed, and what is the part number.
thanks,
Sam
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Old 08-07-2005, 01:33 AM   #70
Delple
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Question

Hi chaps, Just read this post with interest as it might affect me.

I am rebuilding a 2003 1150GS (13,000KM) which has been in a front end collision. It has stood for about 18months without running. The front engine cover was whacked by the front wheel and cracked.

I replaced the lower alternator pulley and rotor as they were distorted. When I got the engine started it was making a knocking noise from the front end. Ran it at tick over for about 5 minutes and it didn't go bang so I hope it's not terminal. I did have quite thick oil in it (10W/30 - It was free from work) and I live in Cyprus where we normally use 20W/50 oil. Not sure if it was to thick, but I wanted to get any crap out of the engine (I did find some aluminium swarf in the oil when I drained it).

Any thoughts and also when did the manufacture start fitting these new devices to these bikes?

Regards and enjoy the sun where ever you are

Derek
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Old 08-07-2005, 08:32 AM   #71
bemiiten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yelostn78
hey i ordered these parts

11 31 7 688 629
11 31 7 656 922
07 11 9 963 308

I got them today and I have the spring loaded piston, the new outer body with the copper gasket, i did not get the smaller black piston, is it needed, and what is the part number.
thanks,
Sam
You have the latest updated parts that cost around $50.00. The tensioner pictured in the write up is the older, discontinued tensioner update that went for around $200.00
You have everything you need.
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Old 09-06-2005, 09:28 AM   #72
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11 31 7 688 629
11 31 7 656 922
07 11 9 963 308

Yep. That's the ones.

I just installed them in my 1150GS, and the difference in noise level is amazing. Now, I gotta do the rocker end play thing and it'll really be quiet.

If you have a lot of slapping noise from your left cylinder, then this is your fix.

If you can change your oil, you can do this yourself.

The parts from chicagobmw.com were less than $60.
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Old 09-06-2005, 01:13 PM   #73
G-Force Junkie
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FYI, I ordered these on the 14th of last month and I called Chicago BMW today, they got a shipment of them in last friday so if you ordered them, they should be on their way.
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Old 09-12-2005, 05:14 PM   #74
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Are the 2 parts plus the copper gasket what is needed? What has been the consensus of the people who have made the change as to whether it was worth the cost and effort. My parts came in today, Chicago BMW said they sold mucho amount of these recently but since they werent the parts specified for the bike they would make no claim as to their benefits or negatives.
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Old 09-12-2005, 09:33 PM   #75
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Ok, my little update since my parts came in today from Chicago as well. First, a couple of pointers compared to the excelent writeup on the first page of this thread. I found you do not have to remove the injector or any of its wiring, just leave it be. Also, the zip tie on the bottom holding the TPS wiring, you dont have to cut it. When you remove that bolt (with a 4mm allen) it comes off with it. All you have to remove is the 2 manifold bolts (a little tricky on an ADV as the bar is in the way (ball end allen wrenches works great here), loosen the hose clamp at the airbox and rear of the TB, and unclip the TPS wiring. Slide the intake tube abot 3/8" into the airbox, then you can pop the TB out of it. Pivot it up and tie it off like pictured. I used a bunjy cord. To remove the old tentioner body you will need a 17mm box wrench with a 12 point closed in. The new body has a 15mm nut on it so you will also need a 15mm box wrench with a 12 pt closed end. After you get the old parts out, plop the new piston in (curved side first, the hollow end points up), put the body on and snug it down. Only other tricky part is getting the TB back into the intake tube. As pictured, the O-ring is not tight and wants to get pinched out. Tilt the TB so the rear part engauges, then with a small flat blade screwdriver gentaly guide the O ring into the groove as you slide the intake tube over it. bolt the manifold back up, tighten the hose clamps, plug the TPS back in, and check to see that the throttle cable is seated back in its adjuster (because it probaly got pulled out when you hung the TB up.)

Tools you need: 4 and 5mm allen wrench, 17mm and 15mm box wrench, small flat blade screwdriver, medium flatblade screwdriver (for hose clams, or whatever socket those are), 16" bunjy cord or wire to tie TB up, Paper clip or length of saftey wire (.032" worked to remove old plunger for me).

Time: It took me 29 minuets, I could probaly do it in 15 the second time.

Results: It doesnt sound like a drummer holding a good cadance with a ball peen hammer in my motor no more! Just the soft clatter of the the valves and smooth running cam chain sound.

Mike
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