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Old 03-08-2014, 01:38 PM   #1
pelvis_98 OP
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Drywall span

I am going to insulate and drywall my man castle. I am going to put up 2x4's across the top of the walls where I will be attaching drywall for the ceiling.

In the pic I have placed a piece of plastic where the 2x4 will run. It is a 12 foot span every 24 inches. Is a 2x4 for that span be strong enough for drywall or will it sag? Do I need to add strapping before I drywall?

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Old 03-08-2014, 01:42 PM   #2
kdo58
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it can work if you put a strong back down the middle, basically a 2x4 down the middle on top of your ceiling, with another 2x4 on edge nailed to that 2x4 that is going down the middle making a L. it is old school type of framing.

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Old 03-08-2014, 02:06 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by pelvis_98 View Post
I am going to insulate and drywall my man castle. I am going to put up 2x4's across the top of the walls where I will be attaching drywall for the ceiling.

In the pic I have placed a piece of plastic where the 2x4 will run. It is a 12 foot span every 24 inches. Is a 2x4 for that span be strong enough for drywall or will it sag? Do I need to add strapping before I drywall?

Do a strong back like KDO said and use 5/8 drywall for the ceiling. Another option would be 1/2" plywood. Your problem will be insulating the structure. As light as the framing is you don't have room for much! I would do spray foam if my budget allowed. GH
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Old 03-08-2014, 02:09 PM   #4
pelvis_98 OP
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Then I guess it would be best to use a 2x6 instead?
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Old 03-08-2014, 05:47 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by pelvis_98 View Post
I am going to insulate and drywall my man castle. I am going to put up 2x4's across the top of the walls where I will be attaching drywall for the ceiling.

In the pic I have placed a piece of plastic where the 2x4 will run. It is a 12 foot span every 24 inches. Is a 2x4 for that span be strong enough for drywall or will it sag? Do I need to add strapping before I drywall?

12' is too long for 2x4 ceiling joists at 24". The strong back would help a little, but would depend on the depth of the room. You'd be better off using 2x6 cj's.
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:22 AM   #6
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Why not just attach to the existing rafters? Like this /---\ shape ceiling,you could add insulation behind the sides and then put up the center. It would give you a little more head room also.
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Old 03-09-2014, 10:11 AM   #7
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Why not just attach to the existing rafters? Like this /---\ shape ceiling,you could add insulation behind the sides and then put up the center. It would give you a little more head room also.
I have been considering that. I just dont know about getting air flow if I fill it with insulation that way.
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Old 03-09-2014, 10:15 AM   #8
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I have been considering that. I just dont know about getting air flow if I fill it with insulation that way.
Use insulation baffles over R13 if you see a need to vent. R13 isn't much, but it's definitely better than nothing.
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Old 03-09-2014, 10:20 AM   #9
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This

Quote:
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Why not just attach to the existing rafters? Like this /---\ shape ceiling,you could add insulation behind the sides and then put up the center. It would give you a little more head room also.
You can build in air flow, as suggested, with baffles......
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Old 03-09-2014, 10:28 AM   #10
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Why not just attach to the existing rafters...
there's your solution, and adds volume to the space, except i would strap the existing rafters and rafter ties with 1x4 #2 pine on a 16oc layout to include intersections at rafter/wall and rafter/tie. use construction adhesive in addition to normal fasteners on the sheetrock install.

before insulating, i would add framing/blocking for a light lift point, always handy for picking loads...such as the front or rear of a moto.

make sure you have jboxes in place for plenty of lighting.
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Old 03-09-2014, 10:50 AM   #11
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My original concern with just adding drywall to the rafters the way they are now was venting. I have a vented ridge cap and vented soffit, so it didn't make sense to me to now close up that air flow. I didn't know about the baffles, but now that I have googled what they are I think I will be going that route.

What is the reason for the strapping, is it to just strengthen up for the drywall?
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Old 03-09-2014, 11:35 AM   #12
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Keep going with the ideas I have something "almost" like that to close in and insulate later this year. No cross pieces "yet" on the old "pole" structure so I have to add some and can't be like your first idea, I'd lose headroom and storage.

So I have to put "cross pieces" between the roof poles/rafters just like what you have there. Sure as heck won't be hardware store lumber but then I have plenty of Douglas Fir already cut at exactly 2x4 or 2x6, got to be over twice the load bearing specs of hardware store S-P-F. Won't bend for sure but I still watch the crown of the wood when I install stuff like that, you don't want the crown down and then add weight and get a weavy ceiling later on.And much worse looking if the crowns are indiscriminately up and down like they did in my house back in the 20's.

Undecided yet if I'll use drywall because of the weight and I gladly gave all my leftovers away....too much drywalling in my life I am done with that.

But I do have a big pile of old Aluminium roofing I removed from the house last year,that sure is light enough to sheet with and would be much faster to install than drywall.But may be too ugly to put up there even for me, I'll have to go price new stuff or maybe use the steel I have here.
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Old 03-09-2014, 11:47 AM   #13
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I actually thought of using that old siding I have laying up top as the ceiling. But like you say, might be to ugly. I dont really want to drywall but I would like it looking nice when I'm done.


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Keep going with the ideas I have something "almost" like that to close in and insulate later this year. No cross pieces "yet" on the old "pole" structure so I have to add some and can't be like your first idea, I'd lose headroom and storage.

So I have to put "cross pieces" between the roof poles/rafters just like what you have there. Sure as heck won't be hardware store lumber but then I have plenty of Douglas Fir already cut at exactly 2x4 or 2x6, got to be over twice the load bearing specs of hardware store S-P-F. Won't bend for sure but I still watch the crown of the wood when I install stuff like that, you don't want the crown down and then add weight and get a weavy ceiling later on.And much worse looking if the crowns are indiscriminately up and down like they did in my house back in the 20's.

Undecided yet if I'll use drywall because of the weight and I gladly gave all my leftovers away....too much drywalling in my life I am done with that.

But I do have a big pile of old Aluminium roofing I removed from the house last year,that sure is light enough to sheet with and would be much faster to install than drywall.But may be too ugly to put up there even for me, I'll have to go price new stuff or maybe use the steel I have here.
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Old 03-09-2014, 12:11 PM   #14
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I actually thought of using that old siding I have laying up top as the ceiling. But like you say, might be to ugly. I dont really want to drywall but I would like it looking nice when I'm done.
You know...google ceiling tiles, you may find something nice and light. They have old style looking stuff in 24" squares. Now to convince someone to even dig up her old stuff/tin ceilings and show it to me. And then convince her to sell.......Stubborn German packrats.....!!!!

I am a good packrat, they even burned down the abandoned house across the road a couple weeks ago as it was infested with packrats/mice, but not before we salvaged. We did very good but sure stunk by the time we got out of there.

What do you need??? Nice electric furnace??? 200A panel???? Industrial lighting???? Nice old doors???Too bad you are too far!

Now that you mentioned siding.....I got the last of the bricks yesterday but there is a big pile of siding under a tarp, gotta go look at that may be cedar. If so......more work today.
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Old 03-09-2014, 07:18 PM   #15
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What is the reason for the strapping, is it to just strengthen up for the drywall?
supports the sheetrock so it doesn't sag over time.

you can also shim the 1x4s to straighten the framing as necessary.
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