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Old 06-08-2011, 05:09 PM   #1
ElRod OP
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Maxima Coolanol

So I have the 15K maintenance interval coming up. Go to my (semi) local dealer getting what they have and ordering the rest from them. Need coolant. They say the Coolanol is the cat's ass.

Your thoughts?
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:07 PM   #2
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What's in it that makes it different from Preston 50/50 or any other pre-mixed anti-freeze on the market?
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:13 PM   #3
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Glycol based, developed by Exxon for military, 10 percent cooler, blah, blah.
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:28 PM   #4
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Prestone 50/50

Component, CAS No., Amount

Ethylene Glycol 107-21-1 40-60%
Diethylene Glycol 111-46-6 0-5%
Water 7732-18-5 40-60%
2-Ethyl Hexanoic Acid (Sodium Salt) 0-5%


Maxima Coolanol

Component, CAS No., Amount

Monoethylene Glycol 107-21-1 40-60%
Diethylene Glycol 111-46-6 <5%


This information is straight from the MSDS sheets for both coolants. Guess Maxima assumed you'd know there was water (7732-18-5) in it, unless the jug is half full and you add your own. Prestone adds salt to the mix as well.

Otherwise, looks like the same shit to me.

This is a lot like "Boutique" brake fluids. Snake oil.
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Old 06-08-2011, 06:53 PM   #5
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FWIW, I have used Maxima, Motul, and regular old Prestone.

The bike ran a bit cooler with the Motul than it did with the Maxima.

With the regular Prestone my bike would heat up to 6 bars in the blink of an eye and it was tough to get it below 5 bars in traffic with an ambient air temp of around 20C. Yes, the system was bled very thoroughly and had absolutely no air in it. I bleed it the same every time. That stuff was shite IMO.

I will not use regular auto coolant after what I have seen. YMMV.
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:22 AM   #6
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Its your money , waste it any way you want . Straight antifreeze will not cool a motor , water is what cools it . Antifreeze is the additive that increases the boiling point to a higher temp and protects it from freezing to a lower temp . Any thing packaged for MC's is a automotive product with the price marked way up so suckers will buy it . SEYA
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Old 06-09-2011, 04:45 AM   #7
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FWIW my R1 runs about 15-18* cooler with engine Ice over regular antifreeze. Water wetter is even better but temps get below freezing here so I don’t use it unless racing.
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Old 06-09-2011, 05:29 AM   #8
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Fwiw I happen to be sat here doing a little thermal analysis: according to the data in the materials library of my CFD package, the thermal conductivity of water in the opperating range that an engine typically sees varies from 0.60-0.68 W/m*2K, while the antifreeze and other snake oils that are found in these products have values in the range 0.1-0.15 W/m*2K (and it decays as the temperature rises, unlike water). So as a rough rule of thumb water is 4-5x the conductor of heat that any of the other stuff is.

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Old 06-09-2011, 05:37 AM   #9
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Thanks for the input. As I thought.
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Old 06-09-2011, 05:47 AM   #10
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Water is the best. But if you live in an area where it gets below freezing its a pain in the a$$. Flush change, flush change ….repeat 2 or 3 times a year.
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Old 06-09-2011, 06:33 AM   #11
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I read somewhere that automotive coolants contain silica to scrub the water passages in the block, such scrubbing supposedly raises hell in a motorcycle.
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:23 AM   #12
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Not for years.
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:53 AM   #13
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Water wetter and engine ice contain surface tension reducers. The reduces help to prevent turbulent flow in areas that have sharp internal corner or hot spot pockets in the cooling system, in turn this allows more of the coolant to circulate though the system, thus reducing the overall temperature.


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Old 06-09-2011, 11:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmandrze View Post
Water wetter and engine ice contain surface tension reducers. The reduces help to prevent turbulent flow in areas that have sharp internal corner or hot spot pockets in the cooling system, in turn this allows more of the coolant to circulate though the system, thus reducing the overall temperature.
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General Electric has produced a pretty comprehensive Heat Transfer Data book, which is used as somewhat of a benchmark in our industry. According to their data, for an 0.5" diameter pipe, the convection coefficient of water varies from .006-0.01 cal/sec cm*2 degC in the laminar flow region, whereas turbulent flow will produce values which rapidly increase from 0.01 at the laminar/turbulent transition boundary to 0.1 cal/sec cm*2 degC in a well established turbulent regime. So in broad terms you'd expect to get significantly better heat rejection with turbulent flow (which as I understand it, reduces the likelihood of a boundary layer forming on the edge of the pipe that in turn tends to heat up, and therefore reduce the effectiveness of any heat rejection from the system).
Fwiw To optimize cooling in high flow rate air plenums, we often include discontinuities at various downstream locations in the fin stock, which breaks up boundary layer formation and therefore speeds up the flow.

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Old 06-10-2011, 07:15 AM   #15
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You have been reading to many sales blurbs

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmandrze View Post
Water wetter and engine ice contain surface tension reducers. The reduces help to prevent turbulent flow in areas that have sharp internal corner or hot spot pockets in the cooling system, in turn this allows more of the coolant to circulate though the system, thus reducing the overall temperature.


Jason
No that is not correct. Others above have said the correct things. "Water is best... but you have to add stuff to control boil and frezzing points and corrosion which worsens it." I do the math on this stuff. If your bike is overheating you need more AIR end of discussion. (sorry to argue with salesman - but they lie)
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