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Old 06-09-2011, 04:25 PM   #1
0to60Eventually OP
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Elite 150- bad belt or clutches?

http://youtu.be/huzMbZhhpaY

what do you guys think?
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:41 PM   #2
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Right click / copy imbeded url. Right click again Paiste and hit reply for youtube video .

Your ll have to open it up before you can tell. it could be belt, drive face( clutch or Driven face ( The side with the rollers.) Or it could be all 3.
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:44 PM   #3
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+1 ^
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Old 06-10-2011, 04:02 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullmetalscooter View Post
Right click / copy imbeded url. Right click again Paiste and hit reply for youtube video .
I know how to work YouTube. The embed code didn't work in my original post.
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1985 Honda Elite CH150
gas guzzlers rarely driven:
2001 Toyota 4Runner Lifted/Locked/Geared/Armored trail rig
1987 Pontiac Fiero 1MZ-FE swap Auto-X Animal
1988 Toyota Camry LE rainy day gas sipper
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:50 AM   #5
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Yep it could be any of those 3. I'd just pop it open and take a look. Maybe even start the scoot, put it on it's center stand and watch the CVT in action.
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Old 06-10-2011, 11:02 PM   #6
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I did post my answer on YouTube, but I'll post it here for anyone else w/ the same issue;

the squeal is what happens if the belt and/or driving (or driven) face(s) are glazed. The fix is to replace the belt and lightly sand the pulleys with 400 grit sandpaper. Basically, once the clutch engages, it briefly stresses the belt and the pulleys slip momentarily, causing the squeal.
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Old 06-12-2011, 08:27 AM   #7
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I did post my answer on YouTube, but I'll post it here for anyone else w/ the same issue;

the squeal is what happens if the belt and/or driving (or driven) face(s) are glazed. The fix is to replace the belt and lightly sand the pulleys with 400 grit sandpaper. Basically, once the clutch engages, it briefly stresses the belt and the pulleys slip momentarily, causing the squeal.
Yeah that's what I figured...damn...I'm gonna order the belt before taking it apart, so I only have to do the job once.

Is 8k miles the average lifetime of these belts?
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1985 Honda Elite CH150
gas guzzlers rarely driven:
2001 Toyota 4Runner Lifted/Locked/Geared/Armored trail rig
1987 Pontiac Fiero 1MZ-FE swap Auto-X Animal
1988 Toyota Camry LE rainy day gas sipper
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Old 06-12-2011, 11:14 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by 0to60Eventually View Post
Yeah that's what I figured...damn...I'm gonna order the belt before taking it apart, so I only have to do the job once.

Is 8k miles the average lifetime of these belts?

Yea that is good advice bbishoppcm gave you. I think that'll fix the problem.

8K miles is about average. Some get about 15K out of theirs.

BTW its a good idea to have a backup belt with you on longer rides once the belt starts getting to higher miles. The belt can be changed out on the side of the road if you do it this way:

[IMG][/IMG]

It worked for me. If you do it the regular way taking off the CVT plates you'll need a good impact wrench to do it right. Also make sure you tighten that front drive plate's nut good, it can fly off if you don't tighten it down.
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Old 06-12-2011, 01:23 PM   #9
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Wow, BTCN, I had no idea you could do it that way! I believe I tried this and it didn't work. I would've taken my clutch apart anyway, because it was glazed and full of dust... but I'll keep this in mind if the belt ever fails on the road!

Yeah, the expected lifespan is 12k, but remember; rubber breaks down with age too, and your scooter is about 25 years old. I'd also make sure you don't have the original tires as well, because they also have a shelf life of only a few years.
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Old 06-13-2011, 12:42 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by bbishoppcm View Post
Wow, BTCN, I had no idea you could do it that way! I believe I tried this and it didn't work. I would've taken my clutch apart anyway, because it was glazed and full of dust... but I'll keep this in mind if the belt ever fails on the road!

Yeah, the expected lifespan is 12k, but remember; rubber breaks down with age too, and your scooter is about 25 years old. I'd also make sure you don't have the original tires as well, because they also have a shelf life of only a few years.

Yep it works. I did it once. It works, but its hard to get it the first few times. You just have to pull the rear spring all the way out and shove the belt in it to keep it open and then work it off in the front.
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Old 06-13-2011, 08:07 PM   #11
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Whoa that's amazing...1 minute 43 seconds!
I'm gonna have to get deeper in there and scuff up the clutches but that's good to know if I'm ever stuck- I "favorited" it on YT to watch on my iPhone in the event of a breakdown haha
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1985 Honda Elite CH150
gas guzzlers rarely driven:
2001 Toyota 4Runner Lifted/Locked/Geared/Armored trail rig
1987 Pontiac Fiero 1MZ-FE swap Auto-X Animal
1988 Toyota Camry LE rainy day gas sipper
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:58 PM   #12
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my ch150 is acting up again. Taking off is a series of hard random jerks until I finally get up to speed and then the clutch acts normal. Every time I stop and start again it's the same thing... 3 or 4 hard random jerks and then we go.

It feels like there might be some huge chunks taken out of the belt?
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Old 07-04-2011, 09:15 PM   #13
bbishoppcm
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Originally Posted by D0N View Post
my ch150 is acting up again. Taking off is a series of hard random jerks until I finally get up to speed and then the clutch acts normal. Every time I stop and start again it's the same thing... 3 or 4 hard random jerks and then we go.

It feels like there might be some huge chunks taken out of the belt?
My Helix does this often. While stopped, hold the brakes so the wheel won't move; open the throttle for three seconds MAX, this will burn off any glazing and the clutch will operate normally.
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Old 07-05-2011, 10:54 AM   #14
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I will try that thanks
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Old 07-05-2011, 11:33 AM   #15
btcn
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Originally Posted by bbishoppcm View Post
My Helix does this often. While stopped, hold the brakes so the wheel won't move; open the throttle for three seconds MAX, this will burn off any glazing and the clutch will operate normally.

Yea this is supposed to work well.
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