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Old 07-08-2011, 04:49 AM   #241
4jranch
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new followers...

Good morning ladies,

Another along for the ride. I have been looking at the Tigers but just could not pull the trigger on a new bike, I like to purchase used after the big depreciation. Just bought a 2009 BMW F800GS and am loving it, my first "enduro". New to Advrider. My wife Lynne is from Penticton and we are enjoying this adventure and particularly the pictures. Thanks for taking the time to keep this thread updated. Lynne also rides and we have been on Honda ST1300s for a couple of years, planning a trip from home here in Texas to her home in BC this August. She recently acquired a Versys and we have been enjoying the lighter bikes for local rides. I am from Billings but we have been in Texas so long we now claim Texas. Love to come north in the summer.

We will continue to follow your adventure.

Jeff & Lynne
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:59 AM   #242
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Virtual Tour OF Dawson City - 0 KM

July 7th 201


This morning Cheryl and I met Brad Whitelaw, the owner and operator of the Triple J hotel where we are staying and the Dawson City’s Klondike Spirit Paddle Boat. I informed Brad about the charity portion of our ride and he instantly took an interest and wanted to help out. Gave him one of our traveling cards ACT made for us and he graciously took it and started to spread the word in Dawson City what we were doing in town. Brad also was generous in helping us out with accommodations and a boat tour on the Klondike Spirit. I am ahead of myself more about that dinner tour later. If you are ever in Dawson City stop by the Triple J and say hi to Brad. Nice place to stay, friendly people and just a comfortable place to hang out.


After Blogging in the morning while it poured rain outside, Cheryl came down to the lobby and we had a nice breakfast in the hotel restaurant. Right after we were off to the local car wash at the Esso gas station when you first come into

town.






Don’t worry Cheryl was careful with the pressure washer on the bikes. We just felt better getting them sort of cleaned so we could really get our chains lube up well for the Dempster tomorrow.





While we were waiting for the car wash to clear for us a young man who changes tires next door had a look at our bikes. I explained the vibrating annoying noise we were having and he came up with a theory. His name was Pierre Luke from Quebec. Working in DC for the summer. He noticed that both our back tire axles were not straight and the bolts to tighten up your chain or loosen it were not even. Pierre Luke took our bikes into the garage where he works after they were washed and loosened up the axle bolt, adjusted both bikes, the chains were initially OK but he checked them too. Now, we just need to ride more to see if this worked. What a great guy to have done this for us.








After we got all put back together we took a quick ride up The Dome. This is a very high “hill” with a spectacular view of the city and surroundings.





















This is the City






One more




Got back to the hotel and quickly lube the chains while they were still warm. This is when I burnt my finger on one of the pipes of the bikes while getting it up on the centre stand. Lesson, do not go near a hot pipe.






Next we went on a walk around the entire town and made a top at the local RCMP detachment.
Thought this was a perfect picture to show how laid back people are who live here. Hammock on the second story balcony. Many people who live here are transients from all over. According to everyone we speak to this town booms for about 110 days a year and then shuts down where a few local stay throughout the winter and many fly the coup. It can get down to –40 degree C in the winter with 6 feet of snow. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.









dogs Many scruffy dogs all over but I just loved this one`s face.






Some more sights







Our Hotel




More ADV riders show up but we have not met them




Went to see the local RCMP detachment and met a nice Constable named Jeff from the lower mainland doing a Limited Duration posting in Dawson City. He gave us a tour of the detachment, told us very funny stories that should not be posted and just gave Cheryl and myself an enjoyable orientation to live as a RCMP officer in the city. Thanks Jeff nice meeting you.











More touring around and checking in at certain stores. We went to the Dempster Highway info centre and when we walked in the woman who gives all the info said `hey you are the girls who are riding for Autism aren't you?” We were like how did you know? She said Brad from the hotel Triple J told her and she said it is a small town. Cool!


















Tour guide lady wearing a Northwest Mounted Police uniform. She informed us that recently the town was replacing sewer equipment and they found at least 4 dead bodies. The townies all say they were criminals and were executed back in a day.







We stopped in the room for a bit after our walk to try and wipe down our suits. Dust and Gore Tex often do mix for too long to maintain the waterproofing. Oh well, not much success. We are sure they will still keep us dry.




Then we were off again for our river dinner boat tour. We were the youngest one’s on the boat but hey it was a great way to see the area from the Yukon River, have a great meal and meet some really interesting people.







Not too soon after we left the dock we saw these guys.




They were tourists who got lost hiking and were asking for help. Brad our boat operator called the RCMP search and rescue to get them out. They were indeed very very lost!






Dinner on board was delicious and here is Brad. Our awesome boat owner and owner of the Hotel Triple J. Brad has been living in Dawson City for 25 years all year long and LOVES it.






This is Rita from Quesnal, BC. She said she is almost 70 and 9 years ago was diagnosed with breast cancer and was given a 6 month prognosis. That was 9 years ago. She married a wonderful man who died also 9 years ago. 3 years ago she was diagnosed with inoperative lung cancer. She did not want to know how long. She takes her chemo pill everyday, smokes and drinks and is enjoying her life. Rita had a special dress made for her boat trip and coming to Dawson City has been a 30 year long dream of hers. She was on the boat with her best friend and daughter, Rio. What a character Rita was and we hope she lives a very long time living her dreams.







Just so more pictures from the river to enjoy




Some woman lives in this house in the summer…did I say house?




A retired clown from Ontario lives in the cave home that used to be a mine. Go figure. Hard to see his home in the pic but he’s waving.




here is a picture of a native reserve. We forgot the name of the Band. As tourists you can go visit this reservation if you want.










Got back to shore a little after 8 pm and Cheryl wanted to drink the Sour Toe so we needed to be at the Downtown Hotel by 9 so she could drink and drink with an 8 year old toe in it. YEP, human toe. Don’t worry it has been approved by Health Canada and the bar has to follow strict protocol to be allowed to let the public have the “luxury” to consume this alcohol beverage. The alcohol has to be at least 40% proof. This is a $$ making tourist attraction.










So, what a day we spent in this city. Did a lot, saw a lot and now I am beat. We are heading out for the Dempster tomorrow. So far we have heard 5 biker have wiped out and been taken out. We met a guy I think from New Mexico. Last year he tried the Dempster and broke his leg. This year he broke his Aprillia cruiser like bike. He said maybe next year he will get a bike like ours.


So, gonna enjoy the ride to Inuvik, everyone wish for good weather. That can make or break the Dempster. Later until next BLOG update which might not be for a few days.
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:25 AM   #243
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Great adventure ladies! Love the choice of motorcycle!
You should get one Nan....
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:36 AM   #244
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Dempster

Best of riding luck on the Dempster!!! I'll be really keen to read about the bikes and the road conditions.
Back in 1971 my former Husband canoed the Peel River for Parks Canada and the future Heritage River
program. Pretty wild. Take care!
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Old 07-08-2011, 07:50 AM   #245
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LOVING your report! Best of luck to you on the Dempster. Ride safe.

Kathy
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:36 AM   #246
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Hi there ladies. Been following your post partly because I'm interested in the Tigers, and partly because your travels are bringing back memories of my own trip to the Dempster in 2008. I rode up there from Oregon with three buddies.

I remember well starting out on the Dempster and seeing those ominous signs at the start of the road. We got to Eagle Plains on the first day and stopped there due to heavy rain. The second day cleared up and we got a late start, had some mishaps, and arrived in Inuvik around 10pm just in time for pizza. Thank goodness for the midnight sun! Woke up the owner of some cabins around midnight and got a roof over our heads. I recall he had a whole bunch of huskie dogs who started baying when we arrived. Got a late start out of Inuvik the next day but had good weather and the road was in decent shape, and we managed to get almost the whole way back to the junction that day - stopped for the night at the campground a little shy of the main road. Boy, were we tired! I remember really flying down some of the well-packed dirt.

People tell horror stories about the Dempster but you'll be fine. A lot will depend on the weather and the road condition - we went as fast as 70mph and as slow as a crawl. Be careful around the trucks - you'll want to pass them on the hills but they will be back on your tail on the downhills - which is pretty scary in deep gravel. The worst thing about the road is the new construction and grading they do in the summer. The gravel can get pretty squirly. Just take your time and stop as needed. It might take you two days or five - all depends on the road and the weather.

Good luck! I'm enjoying following your travels. Good memories.
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:48 AM   #247
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Does this mean you'll be my sugar daddy and buy me one!?


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You should get one Nan....
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:52 AM   #248
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Does this mean you'll be my sugar daddy and buy me one!?
I'd love to Nan, you know that, but I'm picking mine up tomorrow so I'm a little skint right now
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:12 PM   #249
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Oh the Dempster

Working on an update for tonight. The Dempster is an interesting road for sure. We had nice weather for the most part but pockets of rain on us and where it rain ahead of us. Raining right now in Eagles Plains. When the Dempster gets wet it turns into slippery snot. Not for great riding. We decided together we will head


60 KM north to the Arctic Circle and head back to Dawson City or somewhere. That would be over 760 KM of this interesting road. Good enough for us. The weather on Sunday if we went to Inuvik is supposed to be rain and we are not going to chance getting caught in rain and trying to ride this crap. Truly an interesting off road experience but one we want to be able to return in one piece.
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:36 PM   #250
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Your plan sounds very wise. Have fun, and as you said, come back in one piece. If I were in your situation I would do the same.

Has the issue with the bikes been resolved?

Your report has been fantastic. Hope I can make it up there one day. Where I'm at now I would have to quit my job or wait till I retire. For now, reports like this one will have to suffice.
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:48 PM   #251
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Doing the Dempster - 408 KM

July 8th 2011

Eagle Plains population is 8

So, the DEMPSTER! The Dempster….recently we have heard of 5 medical attentions and one rider needing to be air lifted out. The Dempster has wrecked numerous cars and trailers that we have heard about too. I am sure many reading this might think these incidences are no big deal, but many have totaled their bikes or got really hurt. We will not be one of those statistics. The amount of rain the highway is seeing this year is not usual and proven to be quite the hassle for even the cagers.

According to Wikipedia:
The Dempster Highway, also referred to as Yukon Highway 5 and Northwest Territories Highway 8, is a highway that connects the Klondike Highway in Yukon, Canada to Inuvik, Northwest Territories on the Mackenzie River delta. During the winter months, the highway extends another 194 km (121 mi) to Tuktoyaktuk, on the northern coast of Canada, using frozen portions of the Mackenzie River delta as an ice road (the Tuktoyaktuk Winter Road). The highway crosses the Peel River and the Mackenzie Rivers using a combination of seasonal ferry service and ice bridges.

The highway begins about 40 km (25 mi) east of Dawson City, Yukon on the Klondike Highway and extends 736 km (457 mi) to Inuvik.
Much of the highway follows an old dog sled trail. The highway is named after Royal Canadian Mounted Police Inspector William Dempster, who, as a young constable, frequently ran the dog sled trail from Dawson City to Fort McPhersonNWT.

Many who ride the Dempster usually have one thing to say, “when it gets wet the road turns into slippery SNOT and SLOW down.” We left Dawson City with good weather behind and in front of us. Gassed up at the station at the entrance for the Dempster, loaded up our extra fuel pax as well. Paid dearly for the gas, $1.62/litre. UGH!

Took the typical bike picture at the entrance.






Ok, so I took three pictures. After about 20 KM of pavement the road ended and the ride began. First stop was the Tombstone Interpretative centre.


Got our Dempster passports stamped here. when you ride the Dempster the travel folks give you a book to get stamped when you stop at key locations. Well, since we are only going to the Arctic Circle, and we hope we get there, raining right now, we will not be getting too many more stamps because we are not going to Inuvik. More on the reason way as we move along in the update.
it is not that long after the pavement ends the wide open spaces are to be seen. Massive, huge and nothing to see but mountains, hills, tundra and for miles and miles.




Notice the clouds? While it was mainly sunny while we were riding, there were ominous clouds all over ahead of us dumping rain on the Dempster. Remember, rain equates to snotty, ice like riding conditions.




The views are incredible and breath taking for the most part.






Some useful information about the highway




this part of the world is a photographers dream. You can literally stand in one location, take a 360 degree view of it all and get 100 pictures that look different. So, once again I will the pictures speak for them self because really I have nothing too important to add.










The sky kept changing from clear blue with white fluffy clouds to that scary dark cloud stuff. Tat was when we both knew to watch out for the wet stuff coming. Don’t get us wrong, we had a great day riding for the most part. Just being honest here about the Dempster. As a rider you have to be completely alert at all times. Keeping an eye looking way ahead for the road to either be light in colour or dark. Dark = wet = slippery snot. While to take in all the views, we had to be mindful that at anytime the conditions would change and all our attention had to be on the riding and not the scenery.






took a little snack break at the edge. There is a ton of brown almost copper like rocks all around this area. Don’t know why and have not asked. If anyone knows what causes this colouration please feel free to comment.




They seem to use so many types of material on this road. This stuff looks almost like coal.


I almost wiped out when getting into this self timer and the rocks were very jagged and sharp.




In the very far background if you look closely you will see an elephant like figure made out of a natural rock formation. I used my little point and shoot but I still got it even though it was miles away. 1st picture hard to see the formation, second is better. I like the first picture, shows off my photography skills. NOT!




We know how everyone does not read what we type so here are more and more pictures.


Road looks so innocent doesn’t it?


















Good thing we added the extended side kick stand foot print. This is exactly why bikes like ours need to have a larger foot print. We often park our bikes on unstable ground and this is how one stops a heavy dual sport bike from falling over.


This was not far from Eagle Plains but we still needed to refuel our bikes in order to make it here.






Blue skies and then soon after we arrived at Eagle Plains rain.






Here we are presently. The lodge at Eagle Plains.


Bikes are caked in Dempster crud.






We were also greeted by this…




When we were waling in to the lodge there was the woman named Kate Skyping with her friend Bogdan in Vancouver, BC. She asked if we would say hi to her friend and can you believe this, the man on the computer knew who we were. He met us at the Western Powersports swap and shop a few months ago. Small world I tell you. Hi Bogdan if you are reading tonight's post.
Had some good cheeseburgers and beer! felt good to eat even though we only rode a little over 400 KM it felt like a marathon to be honest given the road conditions.


Quite a group here that run the lodge or have been staying here while working on projects. In this picture is Matt from Nottingham, he was our server, Renie born and raised in Inuvik and works in Eagle Plains, and Kate from Nova Scotia who is working on an artist project about the inter-generation transfer of wisdom. She is talking to grandmothers.


Last but not least look how well my fork sealers are working. A threesome of riders just came in from bailing in Inuvik because of the bad road construction after the Arctic Circle and just bad weather. One has lost his fork seal on his KTM, the female rider crashed after being blacked out by dust and hit a wash out. She is OK which is good news. The seal protectors we got are working out really well and I think a very important part of anyone’s bike if traveling this way.


So, another end to a great and interesting day. Our riding skills are really improving and we are learning so much about the Tiger’s after this jaunt up the Dempster. The Tiger’s are just a great bike. Out Heidenau tires are doing really well in this slop. We aired down to 30 in the rear and 32 in the front. More later. Let’s hope we make it to the Circle tomorrow. Still nasty looking outside.

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Old 07-08-2011, 08:51 PM   #252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soph9 View Post
Working on an update for tonight. The Dempster is an interesting road for sure. We had nice weather for the most part but pockets of rain on us and where it rain ahead of us. Raining right now in Eagles Plains. When the Dempster gets wet it turns into slippery snot. Not for great riding. We decided together we will head


60 KM north to the Arctic Circle and head back to Dawson City or somewhere. That would be over 760 KM of this interesting road. Good enough for us. The weather on Sunday if we went to Inuvik is supposed to be rain and we are not going to chance getting caught in rain and trying to ride this crap. Truly an interesting off road experience but one we want to be able to return in one piece.
Leslie, Cheryl, Tigers et al.,

Good strategy to pick your battles!

The Dempster has claimed it's fair share of rolling stock and has required a few fellow riders to be transported out. I would probably make the same decision. Heavily laden bikes with non-knobbies on snot-slippery roads on one of the most remote tracts on the planet - your decision suddenly appears so very wise.

Awesome adventure & riders!

See you's soon!

Gary & Deb
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Old 07-08-2011, 10:31 PM   #253
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I have read nothing good about the Dempster Highway and motorcycles. That highway eats motorcycles for breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert. Very wise decision to adjust your plans.

Kathy
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Old 07-09-2011, 04:59 AM   #254
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The vibrating noise on both bikes

In my post from Dawson City I mentioned a guy by the name of Pierre Luke having a look at our bikes. He noticed both rear tires and the axles not aligned with the frame. It was obvious when looking really closely at the tires that they were turning a little inwards to the right when looking from the rear. He loosened up the axle bolt, readjusted the chains which were not too bad, straightened out both axles and tightened everything back up.

Yesterday we both heard no rubbing, no noise, no vibrations. So, it appears the mystery is solved and it was an alignment issue. Not blaming anyone but I wonder ow this happened? Maybe we ride the same and loosened up on our travels?
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Old 07-09-2011, 06:17 AM   #255
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What an investment

These little things are doing a great job protecting our front fork seals. Ran into a guy on a KTM and he just blew one seal on his bike. He is kicking himself that he did not install protectors on his bike for his Alaska trip and the Dempster highway.

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