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Old 06-17-2011, 08:19 PM   #16
AdvGa
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On your Carb Sync video, it appears you Sync the Carbs at Low RPM.

I do mine at around 4-5k RPM... not sure if this could help you or not.

Here's my link:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...44&postcount=4


In your Video, your Engine sure sounds GOOOOOD.
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Old 06-17-2011, 08:25 PM   #17
crazybrit OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
On your Carb Sync video, it appears you Sync the Carbs at Low RPM.

I do mine at around 4-5k RPM... not sure if this could help you or not.

Here's my link:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...44&postcount=4


In your Video, your Engine sure sounds GOOOOOD.
I've tried both. No difference. Head2Wind said to sync at idle which is what I did last. Motor does sound good. KTM Mechanic thought it sounded great also. Just horrid vibes though the bars. Driving me nuts.
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Old 06-17-2011, 08:55 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazybrit View Post
There is a new vibration that starts coming on at 4700 rpm and by 6000rpm it's VERY noticable in the bars/footpegs.

(Mine did this when I put in the H2W kit and Ken told me that it was the Clip/Needed More Fuel or Too High Carb Float Setting was set at 3.5mm. So I put the Clip to the 4th Position from the Blunt End (without taking the Carbs all the way out)...and the Stuttering/Shaking I had in this RPM Range went away)

Retorqued clutch pressure bolts per ktm bulletin

(Could have a Warped Flywheel/Binding Clutch Pack?--if your Shaking comes from Deep in the Engine Area)

?
Also, with Iridiums your are not needed to adjust the Gap...not sure if this is related or not. Never have with any I have installed.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdvGa View Post
(Mine did this when I put in the H2W kit and Ken told me that it was the Clip/Needed More Fuel or Too High Carb Float Setting was set at 3.5mm. So I put the Clip to the 4th Position from the Blunt End (without taking the Carbs all the way out)...and the Stuttering/Shaking I had in this RPM Range went away)
There is no stuttering. The engine pulls strong and consistent. Just lots of vibes felt in handlebars. I've had the carbs open 3 times now, I suppose it's possible the first time that I inadvertently changed the float levels. I did not make a conscious change.

Quote:
(Could have a Warped Flywheel/Binding Clutch Pack?--if your Shaking comes from Deep in the Engine Area)
Possible I messed something up here, yes. Though clutch works perfectly.

Quote:
Also, with Iridiums your are not needed to adjust the Gap...not sure if this is related or not. Never have with any I have installed.
a) I barely adjusted the gap b) since have replace with set of new standard plugs. No difference.
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Old 06-18-2011, 02:34 AM   #20
Yascher
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I have the same problem, bars and pegs on 990 '10. Hands get numb quickly to the point I can't grab the brakes and even to the point of severe pain. I've ridden bikes all my life and many thumpers, was getting numb saa, but nothing as bad as this one.....and it does feel that the vibes are increasing with the rpm, like the rotating masses are unbalanced in the engine. Pulling the clutch also have an effect of redirecting some vibes in the clutch handle
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:28 PM   #21
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Im going to stick with it being in the bike, not the engine. My reasoning is if you pull a plug wire off any engine the miss is most noticable at idle and sometimes hard to detect at higher RPM. Same with assembling a balance shaft wrong or putting a weighted flywheel on wrong. Sorry I am out of sugestions on the source. Have you tried putting your hand or foot directly on the engine? Maybe do the same with another bike to verify the engine itself has more vibs? Sorry man, we feel your pain. Just tossing out thoughts
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topolino View Post
Im going to stick with it being in the bike, not the engine. My reasoning is if you pull a plug wire off any engine the miss is most noticable at idle and sometimes hard to detect at higher RPM. Same with assembling a balance shaft wrong or putting a weighted flywheel on wrong. Sorry I am out of sugestions on the source. Have you tried putting your hand or foot directly on the engine? Maybe do the same with another bike to verify the engine itself has more vibs? Sorry man, we feel your pain. Just tossing out thoughts
I appreciate the thoughts. I have it torn down again right now.

No tanks, no crash guards, no bash plate, no handguards, nada. Just a MotionPro fuel bottle. I'm going to find a way to strap it to the bike and ride it around tomorrow, hopefully won't go down in a ball of fire

Right now, on the side stand it's as vibey as before. KTM mechanic had me remove each bodywork/guard item at a time and test each step. I talked to him again and he confirmed, on side stand, in neutral, it should not be that vibey.

Here is a video of the slides bike revving upto 5000 rpm and they seem fine.

The initial Iridium CR8EIX plugs -- new when I did all the mods -- seemed to show the front cyl being way too rich but the new CR8EK standard plugs I installed 150 miles ago don't confirm this, front is a little rich but not terrible compared to rear. Either way it's a bit strange as the rear cyl jetting is richer (no, I did not get confused and swap the mains).

CR8EIX


CR8EK left (rear), right (front):




I'll try your suggestions tomorrow. It's going to turn out to be something unbelievably obvious

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Old 06-19-2011, 12:20 AM   #23
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Another person having almost identical symptoms. 850tc's description in his 1st post is exactly how I would describe my problem:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=604575

This one is similar but note quite the same as he claims it's only while under acceleration and it doesn't happen when cruising:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=670400
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:26 AM   #24
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Tony, I don't see any vibes in the video, but I thought I could hear a miss on one cylinder near the high end of your rev run.
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 06-19-2011, 07:53 AM   #25
topolino
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I hear the miss/sputter as well. Reminds me of when you hit just that right spot of throttle and load and the needle needs moved up or down a clip.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:04 AM   #26
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A bad coil maybe?

Boy the sound sure is authenic with the Altec Lansing 5.1 on this desktop computer. Couldn't hear the subtleties on my tiny netbook
Have you tried swapping the coils round to see if the rich cylinder moves to the rear?
I'd video my '03 for comparison, but it would surely scare the neighbors chickens
PS maybe I will anyway
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DISCLAIMER: All observations made in this post are mine and based solely on my own anecdotal experiences, and may contain large doses of facetiousness. YMMV, of course. You are "on your own", and I take no responsibility if someone tries anything in this post and gets into trouble with the law, damages their person or property, or goes blind. Take everything you read or hear "anywhere" butt especially on the Web with a large dose of salt.

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Old 06-19-2011, 09:31 AM   #27
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Fwiw

The vibe in my bike is slightly different than yours.

In southern Chile my 990 developed a vibration between 4200 - 4700 rpm. IIRC with about 30,000 miles on the clock. But it only is noticeable in 6th gear at a low throttle position. Much more noticeable with loaded bags on the bike as the sound of the motor changes and I get bad vibes in the bars and pegs. If I get on the throttle more in that rpm range, the vib goes away. Fuel quality has no effect neither does changing the ignition map. It has been doing this for the last 20,000 miles.

Checked all engine mounting bolts as well.... good.

I changed plugs, sync'd the TB's but it didnt help either.

(EDIT) Oil level is right as well, checked after riding the bike for some time, not just a idle warm up.

I know its not much of a help to you but just an FYI.

good luck with getting it sorted.

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Old 06-19-2011, 09:54 AM   #28
AdvGa
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Make sure your OIL LEVEL is not Overfilled...this can cause some strange events.
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Old 06-28-2011, 11:14 AM   #29
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Hi Crazy brit, I to feel your pain, I have been chasing this for a while, I did an earlier post on this, Vibration at 4500 rpm. I now notice the vibration at 3500 rpm. I have tried all the usual stuff, carb balancing, chains, tires etc, no change. when crusing at 60 -70 mph, if I pull the clutch and let the enging idle, everything smooths out, keep the clutch pulled in and rev the engine, I can feel the vibration, which I now belive is a bearing going bad, if you read Pyndon great post on rebuilding his engine with updated cases, he points out that KTM added bearing retaing plates, to later models, maybe we have a bearing trying to walk out of the case?? also he points to the updated balancer shaft and bearings?? this is where I plan to start looking!.
Like you I have lost motivation, and I plan to ride the thing until it destroys its self or winter comes, when i will do a full tear down.
One more point, KTM know what this problem is, as the newer models don't viberate any where near as bad as ours, when I talk to them all I get is the deer in the headlighs look!!
I hope you can prove me wrong on the bearings.
Steve
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:57 AM   #30
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okay, time to get moving here

No progress made till now. Too many home projects in July, then August prepping the 450 for the TAT, then riding the TAT. Then I guess procrastination till it became too cold to work in the garage but it's warming up a bit now

A recap on the original problem
----------------------------------------------------------------------
- I did all the work, valve check (no adjustment, no loosening of the bridges). Checked jetting changes done by previous owner. Replaced water pump. Installed 2:1.
- Bike started first time. I left it to idle for 20 mins. Probably too long.
- Bike then abruptly died and refused to restart. Drained original 2006 battery. Recharged it. Drained it again trying to get bike started. Took battery to Batteries Plus. Tested bad. Replaced it. Drained new battery trying to start. Smack head against wall. Put new battery on charger. Removed plugs. Cleaned them. Reinstalled. Voila. Bike started first time.
- Problem is that during the many attempts to get the bike to start, some cold as the battery had been recharging, the bike made some horrible backfires. REALLY scary.

On first ride I could tell something was wrong as the bike would start to vibe at 4500rpm and by 6000 it was very noticable.

So I've pulled everything off. Gone back to 2:2. Checked the jetting. Checked all the frame bolts. Checked carb sync (not that this could cause it).

I pulled the plugs (see top pics in post #25) and the front plug (new Iridiums) seemed overly rich which is contrary to the jetting, real cyl should be richer. I bought some new stock plugs and they now seem similar color (see bottom pic in post #25).

----------------------------------------------------------------------

So I posted this update a while back (post #25 ) which included the following video:

Untitled from Tony Jones on Vimeo.



Posts 26 and 27 seemed to be hearing a stumble.


I did the following last night:
- checked both coils (tested ok with ohmmeter)
- pulled the carbs off the bike. I checked the float levels, not that I think they could remotely cause this. I've checked that the jetting is ok 3 times now but I suppose I should give the carbs a thorough cleaning. Anything to specifically do/avoid when doing this?


I guess my thinking on the issue at this point is:

1) there is an issue with one cylinder which is causing the stumble people hear. My problem with this is that the bike pulls hard, gets to 100mph just as before.

2) when the bike backfired while cold there wasn't sufficient oil pressure to the cam chain tensioners and I screwed up the counter balancer. This is an interesting thread Sadly this is where my money is.


Anyways, I believe all the low hanging fruit has been checked.

After I clean and recheck the carbs I was going to pull the valve cover off and verify that the cams are correctly aligned at TDC. My assumption is that this isn't the issue as if I was just one tooth off I'd be way down on power.

After this inmate MY ADV (who's at 90k on his 950) has offered to help me debug it. I think he's had the balancer apart on this bike.

I'll want to bolt it all back together first so he can see it acting up. That's the pita here, the amount of time it takes to go from taken apart to rideable on a test ride and I've only been putting the left tank on. Once I test rode it with my motion pro fuel bottle strapped to the side in lieu of the tanks

Suggestions/advice is most welcome.

crazybrit screwed with this post 02-22-2012 at 11:03 AM
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