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Old 06-14-2011, 07:03 AM   #1
Hodakaguy OP
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KTM 450 - 530 Oil Pump Upgrade! How To Article with Pics

I recently read that KTM upgraded the oil pump gears and oil pump cover O-ring on the 2011 450 & 530 EXC/XC-W models and that some people have experienced oil pump/engine failures with the 2008-2010 parts. I figured it would be cheap insurance to order the updated parts and get them installed asap. Plus it would give me an opportunity to see exactly what they changed on the gears and by how much.

My 09 (2010 Vin) Champion model 530exc currently has 135.3hrs on it.


UPDATE: KTM has recently updated the oil pump shaft with a superseded part number so I updated this how-to (12-23-11) to include the shaft replacement. Also if you have a 08 model you will want to update your oil jet to the 09 and later larger jet for proper oiling. The 08's came with a 100 oil jet, the 09's and up came with a 125.

I recently sold my 09 and purchased a 2010 SixDays, I thought I would open it up to verify it had the updated oil pump gears/O-ring installed from the factory. My 2010 was built on 10/09 and I found it had the updated oil pump gears but not the updated oil pump O-ring or shaft. I installed the updated parts while it was open and took pictures of the shaft installation to add to the how-to below. If you have a 2010 you might want to add the Oil pump O-ring for piece of mind.



Models Effected: 450/530 EXC & XC-W's.

Updates needed by year


2008: Oil pump gears, oil pump cover, oil pump cover o-ring, oil pump shaft, oil jet

2009: Oil pump gears, oil pump cover, oil pump cover o-ring, oil pump shaft

2010: (Actual 2010, not the champions edition with a 2010 Vin that's actually a 2009): oil pump cover, oil pump cover o-ring, oil pump shaft

2011: Updates are done at the factory...your good to go!


Tools that you will need on hand:

*Torque wrench in In/lbs (for the smaller bolts) and ft/lbs
*Clutch basket Holder Tool - Like this one: CLICK HERE NOTE: This tool works but not correctly on our baskets. You have to use the tool on the inside of the basket to make it work.
*Misc hand tools. Wrenches, Sockets, Breaker bar.
*Impact Gun is nice to remove the Clutch Basket Nut but not a necessity, you can use the Clutch Basket Tool and a Breaker Bar as well.

Supplies to have on hand (11 530EXC Referenced on Part#'s):

*CLUTCH COVER GASKET: KTM Part# 78030025000
*RETAINING PLATE: KTM Part# 77332018000 (Lock Tab For Clutch Basket Nut) Note: It can be re-used but it's cheap to replace and you don't have to worry about it.
*HEXAGON NUT DIN0936-M18X1.5 R.: KTM Part# 0936181505 (Clutch Basket Nut..manual says to replace, a lot of people re-use the old one)
*OIL PUMP COVER CPL.: KTM Part# 78038103233
*OIL PUMP COVER O-RING 32x1.50 VITON: KTM Part# 0770320015
*OIL PUMP GEAR 17T: KTM Part# 78038001017
*OIL PUMP GEAR 27T: KTM Part# 78038001027
*TAB WASHER (2 Needed): KTM Part# 0799060000
*Oil Pump Shaft: KTM Part# 78038102100
*Oil Pump (Suction) O-ring:KTM Part# 0770440020
*2008 Only - Oil Pump Jet 125: KTM Part# 57031523125
*Your favorite oil to re-fill the transmission with
*Your favorite coolant to re-fill the cooling system
*Shop Manual. Nice to verify you have everything in the right spot and order upon re-assembly. If you don't have a manual you can use the parts diagrams as reference...example KTM Cycle Hutt Parts FicheFinder: CLICK HERE

Handy Torque Values:
"Screw, Torque Limiter" - M6, 7.38 ft/lbs Loctite 243
"Nut, Inner Clutch Hub" - M18x1.5, 59.01 ft/lbs
"Screw, Clutch Spring" - M6, 7.38 ft/lbs
"Screw, Clutch Cover" - M6x25, 7.38 ft/lbs
"Screw, Clutch Cover" - M6x30, 7.38 ft/lbs
"Screw, Kickstarter" - M8, 18.44 ft/lbs Loctite 243
"Screw, Oil Pump Cover" - M5. 4.43ft/lbs Loctite 222


Start by draining the transmission oil.




Drain the engine coolant.




Then remove the kick start lever, rear brake pedal, loosen the clamp on the water pump hose and slide back the hose and remove the bolts holding the clutch cover on.




I have a habit of laying the bolts out on a towel in the orientation that I removed them so I don't have to figure out which length bolts go where when you start re-assembly.




Slide off the clutch cover and set it to the side. Now remove the 4 clutch spring bolts, slide the clutch pack out and set it to the side. I like to grab the whole pack and slide it out as a unit, make sure you keep track of their order as all the parts come out.




Flatten the security tabs on the clutch retainer and remove the nut holding on the clutch basket. An impact gun works best but you can use the clutch basket tool and a breaker bar as well.




Here are the spacers that sit on the back of the clutch basket. These will remain on the basket when you slide the clutch packs off. Make sure you keep track of them and that they go back the same way during re-assembly.




Parts removed




Now that the clutch basket has been removed we can see the offending oil pump gears. Using a small screw driver remove the clips that hold the oil pump gears onto the pump shafts. Remove the washer and the gear from each pump. I'll be replacing the lower pump cover and O-ring as well.




With the gears out of the bike we can now compare the old gears with the new updated units. The new gears are thicker where they ride on the pump shaft, this should keep the gears running true and take out some slop between the gear and the shaft. Not sure if there is any difference in the materials used between the old and new gears. Here are the small 17 tooth gears.




You can notice a big difference in the large 27 tooth oil pump gear. This is the gear that gets driven off the clutch basket and transfers power to the small 17T oil pump gear. The loads on this gear are higher and it looks like they built up the surface area on the shaft considerably, as well as trapping the drive pin completely so it can't slip out.





Bottom view of the 27T gears.




Next I removed the lower oil pump cover and compared it with the new unit. This picture was taken when re-installing the new cover but shows where the cover is located.




I measured the old and new O-rings to compare the difference. I've read that the original cover/O-ring can fail letting oil get pumped from the engine side to the transmission or from the transmission to the engine depending on what side of the pump the O-ring fails on. Again cheap insurance to eliminate a problem while out on the trail.







Update, Installing the new oil pump shaft:
With the oil pump cover already removed slide the oil pump shaft and inner rotor out towards you. (Red arrow is the pump shaft, Blue arrow is the inner rotor).





Once slid out remove the pin and the rotor and set them aside on a clean cloth. (Blue arrow is the inner rotor, Red arrow is the pin). This is as far as the shaft will move in this direction, it will be removed from the opposite side of the engine.




Next go around to the other side of the bike and remove the suction pump's cover, the cover is located right behind the stator and shift lever. Remove the three screws holding the cover on and set the cover/screws to the side.





Once the cover is removed slide out the inner rotor and pin (Red arrow), set them to the side.




Remove the shaft from the engine.




Here's a photo of the old oil pump shaft and the superseded shaft. The new shaft is slightly longer, other than that I couldn't see any differences. Not sure if anything else has been changed, heat treating etc? The shaft is only $11 so it's worth it for me to have the updated part.




Install the new oil pump shaft in through the suction pump side. Oil the shaft before installing.




Once you have the shaft installed you need to start the re-assembly on the clutch side of the engine. (Do not install the suction rotor/cover at this time or you will have to remove it again).

Slide the shaft out on the clutch side and install the pin (Red arrow) and inner oil pump rotor (Blue arrow). Oil everything before installation. (If you had installed the suction side first it would have become disconnected once you pull the shaft to the clutch side to install the pin, forcing you to open it back up again to re-connect). Once the pin is installed push the shaft and inner rotor back towards the suction pump and align the inner rotor onto the pin. The inner and outer oil pump rotor's should be flush now.

*Note: You shouldn't have removed the outer pump rotor but if for some reason you had it out you need to make sure it's re-installed in the correct direction. The outer rotor has the mark (dimple) facing inward, the inner rotor (the one you removed with the shaft) has the dimple facing outwards.




Blue arrow shows the dimple facing outward on the inner rotor, Red arrow showing no dimple on the outer rotor since the dimple is facing inward.




Install the oil pump cover (red arrow) with updated oil pump cover O-ring and torque screws to proper torque.




Go back to the suction pump and install the inner rotor and pin back onto the oil pump shaft. Oil everything before installation.

*Note:
You shouldn't have removed the outer pump rotor but if for some reason you had it out you need to make sure it's re-installed in the correct direction. The outer rotor has the mark (dimple) facing inward, the inner rotor (the one you removed with the shaft) has the dimple facing outwards.

Install a new Suction pump cover O-ring at this time. (Red arrow new O-ring, Blue arrow is the dimple facing out on the inner rotor...note you can not see the dimple on the outer rotor since it's facing inward).




Re-Install the suction pump cover and torque the screws to the proper torque. (I decided to add a little bling from the hard parts catalog while I was at it ). New cover installed.




New oil pump gears installed in the bike. The gears are noticeably tighter on the shafts than the old gears. I also ordered new retaining clips (KTM calls them tab washers) for each gear and the new clips were noticeably tighter on the shaft than the old clips (same clips as the old ones, just new and tight).




2008 Models Only. If you have a 2008 model replace the 100 Oil Jet with the updated 125 Oil Jet for proper oiling. Arrow showing location of oil jet under clutch cover.




I've been asked a couple times about how the clutch basket tool works when torquing up the inner clutch hub nut. Some people use a impact gun and just rattle down the nut....I prefer to torque the nut to proper specs using a torque wrench.

I purchased a TUSK brand clutch basket tool from RockyMountainATV but it doesn't fit the KTM properly. The tool can still work but you have to install it on the inside of the inner basket instead of on the outside like it should work. The red arrows show where to place the TUSK brand tool.




Use the foot peg to back up the tool (red arrow) while you torque the nut down with the torque wrench.




Now just re-assemble everything, torque up the bolts/nuts, refill the oil and coolant and hit the trails with piece of mind about your oil pump gears

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguy screwed with this post 01-20-2012 at 07:48 PM Reason: Picture Addition
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Old 06-14-2011, 07:27 AM   #2
Tseta
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Nice write-up! Thanks for sharing.

I can't help but comment on the remarks about the new gears looking like they have been machined... If I understood correctly, both the old and the new gears are plastic. Thus, they are most likely injection molded, not "machined" or "cast". A tell-tale sign of this injection molding process is the ejector pin marks on the gears. Thus, the rough finish on the new gears just means that the mold that has been used to make them in the injection molding machine is much rougher than the old mold - the surface texture and tooling marks of the mold cavity are copied quite well onto the surface of the gear. I would guess KTM could have been in a hurry to get the molds working and producing the new gears, thus the mold cavities were not finished as well as in the old mold. Also, as those surfaces are not really functional, the surface finish there does not really matter. Thus, it could have been a cost-cutting exercise as well.

So, not really relevant to the issue, but I just thought I would point it out.

Cheers,

Tseta
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Old 06-14-2011, 07:32 AM   #3
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Nice write-up!

Out of curiosity, why not go with the Blais Racing steel gears?
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Old 06-14-2011, 07:33 AM   #4
Hodakaguy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tseta View Post
Nice write-up! Thanks for sharing.

I can't help but comment on the remarks about the new gears looking like they have been machined... If I understood correctly, both the old and the new gears are plastic. Thus, they are most likely injection molded, not "machined" or "cast". A tell-tale sign of this injection molding process is the ejector pin marks on the gears. Thus, the rough finish on the new gears just means that the mold that has been used to make them in the injection molding machine is much rougher than the old mold - the surface texture and tooling marks of the mold cavity are copied quite well onto the surface of the gear. I would guess KTM could have been in a hurry to get the molds working and producing the new gears, thus the mold cavities were not finished as well as in the old mold. Also, as those surfaces are not really functional, the surface finish there does not really matter. Thus, it could have been a cost-cutting exercise as well.

So, not really relevant to the issue, but I just thought I would point it out.

Cheers,

Tseta
Thanks! Post edited

Hodakaguy
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Old 06-14-2011, 07:36 AM   #5
Hodakaguy OP
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Originally Posted by cross-country View Post
Nice write-up!

Out of curiosity, why not go with the Blais Racing steel gears?
I had already ordered these before I noticed the Blais units. They look like they would be a great fix, although I don't expect to have problems with the new KTM units either.

Hodakaguy
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:00 AM   #6
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Great writeup! Thanks!
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Old 06-14-2011, 09:15 AM   #7
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Excellent writeup!

I went with the Blais gears just because when my motor was going together, I couldn't get the KTM parts in time.

I think either fix is good. I like knowing I have the metal gears in there now, however.

dc
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Old 06-14-2011, 10:28 AM   #8
Hodakaguy OP
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Originally Posted by Country Doc View Post
Excellent writeup!

I went with the Blais gears just because when my motor was going together, I couldn't get the KTM parts in time.

I think either fix is good. I like knowing I have the metal gears in there now, however.

dc
Just a question on the metal gears? Are they as thick as the upgraded KTM gears where they slide onto the pump shafts? Or just a metal copy of the original gears?

Thanks,

Hodakaguy
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Old 06-20-2011, 09:12 PM   #9
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I never saw them, they were installed by thumper racing.

I can't tell from the website whether they have the deep flange or not. I suspect they are a metal copy of the original gears.

http://blaisracingservices.com/KTM/K...prod_1039.html

dc
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:06 PM   #10
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The aluminum oil pump gears are copies of the OEM upgraded plastic 2010 gears. Seen too many of the stock oil pump gears fail or strip out due to running the oil low in the engine or just breaking on their own.
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:53 PM   #11
Hodakaguy OP
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I recently purchased a 2010 SixDays model and decided to verify that the updates were done from the factory on my bike, I also recently noticed that the oil pump shaft has a superseded part number so I installed that as well. My 2010 had the updated gears installed from the factory but not the updated oil pump O-ring or shaft.

I updated the original post above to include the shaft replacement and the oil jet replacement for the 2008 models.

Hodakaguy
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Hodakaguy screwed with this post 12-24-2011 at 08:19 AM
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Old 12-24-2011, 12:06 AM   #12
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Thumb Thanks for keeping us updated

Thanks for keeping us updated. I view your post frequently for great tips and advice. Thanks again.
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Old 12-24-2011, 10:47 AM   #13
It'sNotTheBike
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Great write up !

Your write-ups consistently serve as an example of "how to do it right". Nice job !

I am left wondering about the very small radius on the "update" gears, where the hub of the pump gear
mates with rim of that gear. The radius is small enough that it could act to concentrate stress.

Time will tell whether this will be a problem, but it doesn't look like a well-designed part to me. I'd buy the metal gears if I had one of these bikes.

( I have no affiliation with Blais but I like the idea of metal oil pump gears, especially
if they are properly machined such that stress concentrations are avoided ).
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Old 12-28-2011, 03:12 PM   #14
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450 Parts

Hodakaguy,
To my knowledge the only difference between the 450-530 is the piston and cylinder plus some nuances like jetting. Is the parts list the same for bother engines? I have an 08' 450 EXR-C and want the oil pump upgrade primaily, should I mess with the torque gear if I don't seem to be having issues?

Thanks
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Old 12-28-2011, 05:52 PM   #15
Hodakaguy OP
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Originally Posted by rotorhead511 View Post
Hodakaguy,
To my knowledge the only difference between the 450-530 is the piston and cylinder plus some nuances like jetting. Is the parts list the same for bother engines? I have an 08' 450 EXR-C and want the oil pump upgrade primaily, should I mess with the torque gear if I don't seem to be having issues?

Thanks
Yep the part numbers will be the same, order the part numbers listed above. (Interesting note, the 2008 parts list shows the updated part numbers for the oil pump cover but not the O-ring...they are still listing the old 1.3mm O-ring instead of the updated 1.5mm O-ring. The 1.5mm unit is listed on the 2011 parts list......Order the 1.5mm O-ring .)

I debated on tightening the torque limiter while I had my 2010 opened up for the oil pump upgrades as well. In the end I decided to leave it alone since its working good and will still function as a limiter if the engine ever try's to roll backwards while cranking. If it ever does become a problem it's pretty easy to get back in there and fix it.

Hodakaguy
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