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Old 12-28-2011, 04:59 PM   #16
Hodakaguy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by It'sNotTheBike View Post
Your write-ups consistently serve as an example of "how to do it right". Nice job !

I am left wondering about the very small radius on the "update" gears, where the hub of the pump gear
mates with rim of that gear. The radius is small enough that it could act to concentrate stress.

Time will tell whether this will be a problem, but it doesn't look like a well-designed part to me. I'd buy the metal gears if I had one of these bikes.

( I have no affiliation with Blais but I like the idea of metal oil pump gears, especially
if they are properly machined such that stress concentrations are avoided ).
I haven't heard of any failures yet on the updated plastic gears. DJH on KTMtalk builds/repairs lots of engines and said the newer units are holding up great.

Time will tell.

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Old 01-11-2012, 08:33 PM   #17
dirtRiderGuy
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Bevel spacer ring in the clutch

I've recently noticed that the beveled spacer ring (pretension ring) in the clutch is shown being installed backwards in the repair manual CD.

The illustration in the repair maunual clearly shows the opposite of how it was installed in my bike and the bike in this thread.


Hmmmmm

dirtRiderGuy screwed with this post 01-13-2012 at 03:16 AM Reason: content/accuracy
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Old 01-12-2012, 08:53 PM   #18
guns_equal_freedom
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OK Hodakaguy, I went full retard on the 530 -



What I did -
Finally put the Rekluse clutch cover on the bike.
Installed the SXS aluminum water pump.
Installed the Blais oil pump gears.
Installed the upgraded oil pump cover.
Installed the upgraded oil pump cover o-ring.
Installed the upgraded oil pump shaft.
Adjusted the torque limiter.









I have the 09 2010 Champions Edition of the 530.

The strange -

The oil pump cover was the updated / correct part, so I didn't need to buy it.
I installed the new one anyways.
It did have the thin o-ring, it was replaced with the thicker one.

I have not had any issues with the starter EXCEPT when it is COLD on the first start of the day.

I pulled the torque limiter off and guess which side the thin shim was on. It was under the washer on the outside of the torque limiter.
I guess Gunther was drinking schnapps the day he installed the torque limiter.
It was really loose, so I gave it a quarter turn.

Other than that it was pretty straight forward.

I put everything back together except for the clutch.
That's a science project that I will tackle tomorrow.

Thanks for the tips and the help.

If I ever meet up with you I'll buy you a barley pop.

For some reason I bought the orange bling oil suction pump cover ( don't need it, I already have one).
So I guess I'll try to .... it to someone....
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Old 01-13-2012, 05:13 AM   #19
Hodakaguy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRims View Post
I've recently noticed that the beveled spacer ring (pretension ring) in the clutch is shown being installed backwards in the repair manual CD.

The illustration in the repair maunual clearly shows the opposite of how it was installed in my bike and the bike in this thread.


Hmmmmm

Just looked at the repair manual, it's showing the bevel ring with the taper facing in towards the case and the wide open end facing out towards the clutch pack, this is the correct orientation. I'm getting ready to upgrade a friends 530, I'll take a close look at the clutch disk that mates up to the Pretension Ring to see if there is a machined relief as referenced in the repair manual. I installed the disks back in the exact order it was removed and didn't notice the machined notch but I wasn't looking for it either.




A little hard to see here but open part of the ring is facing out towards the clutch cover




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Old 01-13-2012, 05:23 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guns_equal_freedom View Post
OK Hodakaguy, I went full retard on the 530 -
The metal gears look great, nice to see they are a copy of the updated plastic gears and not a metal copy of the original plastic gears.

I was going to snug up the torque limiter on my 2010 Sixdays while I had it apart but the limiter was completely tight already and wouldn't budge, it's been working great so I just re-installed it.

I have two friends 530's we'll be upgrading soon, received most of the parts but the oil pump shaft is on back order....to many people doing the upgrade

Thanks for the pics!

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Old 01-20-2012, 06:37 PM   #21
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Did the upgrades on my friends 530 tonight.

This picture shows the correct direction of the bevel spacer more clearly.




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Old 01-20-2012, 06:44 PM   #22
dirtRiderGuy
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Well, to my eyes, the way it is in the bike and the way it's pictured in the diagram look opposite to me.

I don't get it.

Hey Hodaka guy...you don't see it???? Maybe it's me. Dunno at this point.
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Old 01-20-2012, 06:51 PM   #23
Hodakaguy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRims View Post
Well, to my eyes, the way it is in the bike and the way it's pictured in the diagram look opposite to me.

I don't get it.

Hey Hodaka guy...you don't see it???? Maybe it's me. Dunno at this point.
Sorry, The diagram agrees with the pictures to me.

Hodakaguy
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Old 01-20-2012, 07:01 PM   #24
dirtRiderGuy
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Ok, let's approach it this way:

Look at the rings inner and outer diameters. The ring is beveled, so that the inner diameter is off plane with the outer diameter.

In the diagram, the inner diameter is away from the engine center line and the outer diameter is closer to the engine center line.

The way it's pictured (in reality) on the bike in the actual pictures taken is such that the outer diameter is away from the engine center line and the inner diameter is closer to the engine center line.

Upon very close inspection this is what I see.

They appear opposite to me.
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:56 PM   #25
Hodakaguy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedRims View Post
Ok, let's approach it this way:

Look at the rings inner and outer diameters. The ring is beveled, so that the inner diameter is off plane with the outer diameter.

In the diagram, the inner diameter is away from the engine center line and the outer diameter is closer to the engine center line.

The way it's pictured (in reality) on the bike in the actual pictures taken is such that the outer diameter is away from the engine center line and the inner diameter is closer to the engine center line.

Upon very close inspection this is what I see.

They appear opposite to me.
I'm not following.....we have a disconnect in communication I think lol. Ok...this pic isn't the best but maybe this will help.



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Old 01-21-2012, 12:25 AM   #26
husqvarna
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Better than a manual

Great write up, thank you for your time.

Two little comments:

Did you check the O Ring material? As for below the quality is not always the best and you may consider sourcing a premium quality O Ring of the same size if the OEM one is not at least Viton. I'm on thin ice here as I don't know the materials but we've had some marginal specifcation O Rings on the engines we've worked on,

An off topic note; we work on some big (1000kW) Austrian made engines and it's clear they are under cost pressure to have parts made in the East and Eastern Europe, often with quality issues. Also the Austrains are not the easist to deal with as many of them (the salesmen for sure) having a know it all attitude, particularly when dealing with us Africans. And they do not always know it all. KTM's should be evaluated with the same critical attitude (I've got 3, I sort of know). Spares are a major rip off for both brands (spark plugs for the big engines run to around $US700 each and last about a year; 20 per engine)..
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Old 01-21-2012, 06:12 AM   #27
Hodakaguy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by husqvarna View Post
Great write up, thank you for your time.

Two little comments:

Did you check the O Ring material? As for below the quality is not always the best and you may consider sourcing a premium quality O Ring of the same size if the OEM one is not at least Viton. I'm on thin ice here as I don't know the materials but we've had some marginal specifcation O Rings on the engines we've worked on,

An off topic note; we work on some big (1000kW) Austrian made engines and it's clear they are under cost pressure to have parts made in the East and Eastern Europe, often with quality issues. Also the Austrains are not the easist to deal with as many of them (the salesmen for sure) having a know it all attitude, particularly when dealing with us Africans. And they do not always know it all. KTM's should be evaluated with the same critical attitude (I've got 3, I sort of know). Spares are a major rip off for both brands (spark plugs for the big engines run to around $US700 each and last about a year; 20 per engine)..
The material is Viton

What large engines do you work on? I work on some large engines as well and the parts can be expensive for sure.

Hodakaguy
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:26 AM   #28
Stellar_D
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Sorry for the noob question, but does the updated oil pump cover also address the oil migration issue?

Outstanding write up. I'm having troubles with the estart on my 08 exc 450 and was going to try to use the torque limiter fix to try and resolve it. Going to update the pump while i'm at it.

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Old 06-03-2012, 01:16 PM   #29
JTOP
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Clutch Cover Gasket

First off, great write up. It's threads like these that make these forums such a valuable resource for idiots like me.

I picked up an 09 530 EXC this winter and have been gone for work most of the time I've owned it. It only had 400 street miles when I picked it up and is pretty much a new bike. I bought a Rekluse clutch for it and decided that while I was intaslling that, I might as well do all the upgrades for the oil pump while I had it apart. Everything went well with the clutch and oil pump, but now I have a oil seep coming from the clutch cover (the bigger one). I'm not really sure why this has developed. Both surfaces were clean, I installed a new gasket and torqued the bolts to spec. Upon inspection I can see that the gasket is in the correct place. Today I went out and tightend all the bolts securing the clutch cover about a 1/4 turn more hoping that would stop the flow, but it hasn't. My question is, do I really need the gasket? Could I just take it off and use some kind of gasket maker or would that be a bad idea? Any sugestions would help. I would hate to buy another gasket just have that one leak too.
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:24 AM   #30
Hodakaguy OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stellar_D View Post
Sorry for the noob question, but does the updated oil pump cover also address the oil migration issue?

Outstanding write up. I'm having troubles with the estart on my 08 exc 450 and was going to try to use the torque limiter fix to try and resolve it. Going to update the pump while i'm at it.

The updated O-ring that goes behind the cover can address some oil migration issues...if thats where it's leaking from. It can transfer at the O-ring, the crank seal and even through the case halves (Friends 08 just had that happen).

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