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Old 06-22-2011, 04:41 PM   #16
MotoBoss
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Keep it up. Looking good. A little maintenance and TLC and your ready to go, them let the farkeling begin.
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:56 PM   #17
live2offroad
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in.. I love a good "back from the dead" story..
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Old 06-25-2011, 07:50 AM   #18
Kawidad OP
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Okay, so I got the bike clean enough to work on some more and to attempt a start up. I bought a battery, new air filter, and oil/filter. However, before I attempted a start up I decided to take the air box off and clean it as completely as I could, since it has some weird bends and nooks and crannies. I wanted to make sure I got all of the mouse crap and bedding out.

Once that was done I tried the gas tank out only to find the petcock was leaking fuel like a sieve. I pulled the petcock apart and replaced the 2 o-rings from a Harbor Freight o-ring kit I had laying about. Not a perfect fit, but it seems to work. I kept the vacuum operation part intact for now. However, I plan on getting a plastic gas tank to replace the dented metal one. I also happen to have a stock petcock from a Yamaha WR400, and it lines up perfectly, so that's what I'll use when the time comes.

So, I bolt on everything necessary for a start up. Put the key in and crank.

The engine rotates and everything sounds okay, but no start. I crank it and it sounds like no compression at all. WTF?

I check the spark plug, and it's getting a good looking spark. I then crack open the carb float bowl drain plug, and fuel spills outs. No problems there.

So, I think through all of the possible diagnostic stuff and talk to my m/c mechanic buddy for suggestions and we both agree that the only thing to do next is pull off the valve cover and have a look, since it's getting fuel and spark.

I pop off the valve cover and I immediately can see the valves are set too tight. I then check it with a feeler gauge and I can't even get a feeler gauge in.

Problem found, now I just have to re-adjust the valves. However, I have to check with my buddy to see if he has shims that I can use/trade.

Of course, this brings me the conclusion that the PO lied and the jackass did not just park it. There is no way it was running after the valves were set like that. It seems more logical he tried a valve adjustment himself, screwed it up, killing the bike, then didn't bother to correct his mistake, and walked away. Hopefully. Since he could have done way worse, which may be to come, but again, hopefully not.
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Old 06-25-2011, 03:11 PM   #19
RevBill
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.. ahhh .. a twist in the plot .. good detective work ..

.. getting juicy now ..

.. edit .. oh yeah .. when referencing "finds" like that, "he whom did such things" is usually referred to as the "DSPO" .. you are being to kind .. though it could have been an honest mistake, he didn't fess up ..
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Old 06-25-2011, 03:16 PM   #20
griffo1962
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Let's hope he didn't bend any valves after his valve adjustment mistake.... check the cam timing very carefully..
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Old 06-25-2011, 04:47 PM   #21
MotoBoss
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Might try readjusting the valves then hand cranking as to not force anything to abruptly with the starter to ensure everything is moving freely.

maybe
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Old 06-25-2011, 07:33 PM   #22
Kawidad OP
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Well, I spent all day with and still no go. The valves were a mess (adjustment wise). They're all now within specs and seemed to be timed correctly, but it still seems like no compression.

So, unless ya'll come up with some brilliant ideas, I guess a tear down of the top end is in order.

At least it's looking good. Here's a couple of pictures to entertain you.



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Old 06-25-2011, 08:56 PM   #23
subybaja
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KACR? Maybe it's fubar and holding a valve open?

Find a leakdown tester, and you can tell if it's a valve or rings leaking. Some parts stores like NAPA or Schucks rent them...

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/mot.../leakdown.html
Quote:
Leakdown testers are way cool. Not only does the amount of air escaping from the cylinder register on the gauge, it can also be heard, enabling the source of the leak to be pinpointed prior to the teardown. For example, high readings accompanied by hissing in the carburetor indicate burnt, tight, or carboned-up intake valves. The same thing in a muffler points toward--you guessed it -- exhaust valves. A breeze coming out of the dipstick hole indicates worn or heat-softened rings. And, air escaping from an adjacent spark plug hole pinpoints a blown head gasket.


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Old 06-27-2011, 08:43 AM   #24
Kawidad OP
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Well, I got it running. Sort of.....

It still seems like the compression is thin, but I'm not sure. It won't hold an idle, but I'm sure it's carburation at this point. Although, I consider this a minor issue.

Unfortunately, my petcock repair is not holding and it's once again leaking like a sieve. It's the o-ring under the lever. It's a weird size and the original looks square and not round. Any ideas where I can source it locally? (not at the dealer mind you)

I was able to sling a leg over it and ride it slowly up and down the street. The clutch was not working well, but I suspect the plates were locking together due to the fact it sat outside for the last 3 years.

However, onto the good part, which is the engine sounds good. No mechanical weirdness that I can detect. And, it rode well all things considered.

I'm going to tinker with the carb and see what happens. I know that low compression will cause running issues, so I'm still not out of the woods yet, but remain hopeful.
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Old 06-27-2011, 05:59 PM   #25
RevBill
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.. you can pick up a petcock rebuild kit on ebay for cheap ..
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Old 06-27-2011, 08:36 PM   #26
Kawidad OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RevBill View Post
.. you can pick up a petcock rebuild kit on ebay for cheap ..

True, but from what i've seen the Yammie petcock is still cheaper.
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Old 06-28-2011, 06:08 AM   #27
ausfahrt
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Nice job so far, I'm in.
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:58 PM   #28
RevBill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
True, but from what i've seen the Yammie petcock is still cheaper.
.. kewl option .. didn't know about that one ..
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Old 06-28-2011, 08:51 PM   #29
Kawidad OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RevBill View Post
.. kewl option .. didn't know about that one ..
I haven't tried it yet, but the Yamaha 660 Raptor petcock seems to be the hot ticket.

On to my saga.

I took the bike to my mechanic buddy and had him take a listen His verdict: ultra low compression. He said it sounds like both the intake and exhaust valves are not sealing and that's why it doesn't run worth a hoot. Kinda what I figured, so the next step is taking the top end off.
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Old 07-07-2011, 07:33 AM   #30
Kawidad OP
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Not a whole lot to report.

I took the bike to a top shelf professional certified welder I know. He looked it over and we've come up with a game plan. I'm going to get a piece of muffler tubing and cut and form it to the shape of the top of the frame, including the studs where the sub-frame bolts on. Then he's going to weld the crack and the reenforcing piece.

He also shared my opinion that Kawasaki used too thin of a section of mild steel tubing for the back bone of the bike. Having the shock mount and the sub-frame bolt mounts onto top of each other is putting a lot of stress on that thin piece of tubing. He thinks a little reinforcement on top will be more than enough for the application (and should have been done at the factory or thicker material to begin with ).

Now the bad part is he' going on summer vacation and can't do it for almost a month.

So, I won't crack open the engine until he's back and about ready, since I'm not going to do a major dis-assembly twice in the space of a couple of weeks.

So in the meantime I'll slowly get together the parts I need to get the job done.
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