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Old 12-11-2013, 11:57 AM   #1546
Sandino
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Excellent pics and report!!, I am in!!. Write when you get to Paraguay as I am here ready for some chat and beers . rirolone at hotmail dot com.
Cheers
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Old 12-14-2013, 05:30 PM   #1547
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Hola Sheldon
Thanks for the tips on your rides, I am in your shadow, leaving San Miguel at the end of the week. I am headed to Panama, where I have a house. If you make it to Bocas Del Toro, let me know, maybe I can get you a room for a night or 2 in my cottage there.
I am hoping to be in Panama by late January. I was in Guiana last October, and also took a boat, no moto Manaus up to the border of Colombia. Truly an amazing experience.
What a great trip to ride down for the world cup. Hope we meet on the road one of these days in the future. Otherwise Ill be in touch via ADV.

Have a great day.
Carpe Diem
Panama J.


No problems mate we will be in touch somewhere along the line, I'm pretty sure you will move on past us at some point we are taking our time.
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Old 12-14-2013, 05:33 PM   #1548
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Excellent pics and report!!, I am in!!. Write when you get to Paraguay as I am here ready for some chat and beers . rirolone at hotmail dot com.
Cheers


Cheers Sandino we will be in Paraguay at some point in July next year straight after the world cup.
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Old 12-14-2013, 05:42 PM   #1549
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We left this morning at around 11 so a normal start for us, the road out of town was ok but once we turned off to Palenque the road became winding and slow. The religious pilgramage was in full force on this road. They were heading south with us til we turned off and then against us on the road to Palenque so where ever they are heading I would think it was south of San Cristobal somewhere. It was only a 200 k ride today, not far at all but in the end iit was real slow going as it wasnt only the vehicle's involved in the parade but the kids in the local villages, they had either got a day off schol or didnt go to school and were lining the road looking for sweets to be thrown out of the trucks and vans carrying all the runners.

Maybe I havent explained that yet but what happens is a few trucks cruise along the road with people piled into the back while another goes up ahead dropping people off at intervals of a about 500 metres and then they relay a torch like an Olympic torch along the road. Its beeen going along for the last week or so of our riding but not to this extent, we are obvioulsy on the home straight of the pilmigridge.

At one point we came across a few convoys of them where they were blocking one side of the highway and then the other to allow for everyone to get past safely. I only saw a few times where they were throwing sweets to the local kids but the kids were out offering some sort of bamboo looking thing to entice them to throw them.

The road itself wasnt the best, what some may call potholes others might call abysses and they were pretty frequent and you had to keep and eye on the road at all times as some of them were only marked by a single rock or two and you were off into neverland.

We arrived at Palenque we had been given the tip by the Canadian couple we had met in Puebla to go right up to the gate and get pretty reasonable accommodation so we did just that, turning off just before Palenque the town and heading out to the ruins. We got to the gate and saw a few hotels so decided to go check them out. We pulled up and chatted to the receptionist but you couldn't see what the accommodation was like so I thought we should just go have some sort of look at them, they were only 200 Peso's and as we have only payed that in a few absolute dumps so far I was keen to have a look to see just how bad it was.

We went over and sat in the restaurant at the front of where all the accommodation is and yeah ok I can see why its only 200 peso's here, there is the regulation hippi type hanging around, you know the type dreadlock hair that hasnt been washed in a few years, tank top that hasnt been washed for a month, beads hanging out of every orifice, bloody hippis you never know what you going to catch with them types, but seriously though looking around this place you can see why they are here, its hippi heavan, beautiful lush green rain forest, it was actually really beautiful, I can imagine sitting out there under a palm leave, smoking weed, off my head then shaggin some nubile dreadlocked lass, then heading down to the stream and washing the nits off me and then to top off a great time, heading back to play my bongos drums for the next 12 hours straight. Bloody hippis.

We were both pretty hungry so we decided to have a drink and something to eat before deciding on what to do, yeah you guessed it I am having spaghetti bolognaise, hey I am simple man and with all these bloody hippis around Im guessing the chef is happy to cook and feed someone meat instead of the regulation been sprouts and lettuce leaves he would be serving up to this lot.

While we were sitting there this American guy comes walking over and says are you on the Bmw, yeah sure are, turns out Bruise is on leave from the military and is riding a Kawasaki Klr 650 down to Argentina. He had arrived a few hours earlier than us and was about to head into the park for a look around. I said its probably closing time in there now so we asked the long haired local guy Gabriel who had come over to try and sell us his tour guide expertise what time it was opened till and sure enough it was closed in 15 minutes. So Bruise joined us for a chat.

He was staying across the road in a quieter place but apparently pretty nice so we took his advice and after we finished our meal we headed back over to the cabanas there. In the end it cost us 400 Peso's but that wasnt to bad, it was set on a little creek amounst beautiful trees and ferns it was actually very nice. We unpacked everything chatting away to Bruise then headed back over to the restaurant as this place had no such thing, it was just the cabanas which in the end made it alot quieter which was nice.

We had a brief chat with an older hippi lady Janice who pays by the month down here and gets a really good deal, if you are into nature and hanging out this is a great place to come and kill some time, the rain forest around us was just beautiful and we only just touched the surface of it around where we are staying.

The three of us headed back over to the restaurant to have a drink and relax and in the end we stayed there till 11 o'clock, drinking a few beers, having dinner and having a great time. There was a few muso's playing there thing and after 9 a group came on and played some salsa type music which got a few pople up dancing. There was one really nice looking Mexican girl sitting right behind us, well I did question if she was actually Mexican as there arent that many of them but as soon as the salsa music started some old hippi type dressed in his hippi style shirt and hat came over and asked her to dance, so that gaves is some entertainment watching her, oh of course I wasn't watching I only had eyes for Ewa.

It was a really nice evening hanging out ith Bruise, we had great fun just jibbering the night away. Ev is always quiet when we meet someone, sometimes I think about giving her a clip over the ear and knocking some words out of her head but the sweet lovable rogue in me says no to that, anyway thats just Ev she takes her a little while to open up and it really is a nice quality about her, I like watching her going through those phases of opeing up, its like watching a flower bloom, Oh gawd, Ive been hanging around with those hippis for to long already, maybe that chef slipped some magic mushies into my pasta. Anyway as if Ewa can get a word in edge wise when Im dribbling shit constantly. What a really nice evening, we are heading into the ruins here at Palenque tomorrow so that will be another interesting day.

Time for beddy byes for now I'm really relaxed after a few beers, I supppose I could roll over and threaten Ewa with the best few minutes of her zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz



Leaving San Christobal







A few of the trucks involved in the pilgrimage.







And some of the runners along the way.







Roadside stalls along the Hwy here in Mexico.











The potholes around here are a nice size.







Probably not ideal to be riding at night and tired around here, these rocks they had placed on the road to warn you of upcoming doom might just not cut it.







A few nice sections of riding when the crowd of pilgrims thinned out.




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Old 12-14-2013, 09:31 PM   #1550
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We got up around 7am today as we wanted to beat the crowds into the ruins but in the end that wasnt a big deal. They had been telling us this is the high season, well if this is the high season then the low season you must not have any one here at all, other than the hippi's that is. Maybe it was the weather, it was raining, pretty constantly, Ev just put on all her wet weathr gear and I just put on my boardshorts and my rain coat top. The ride up to the main ruins is only a few k's, Bruise had mentioned walking up there, but stuff that for an idea, im not walking 6 k's there and back for anyone.

We came out of the driveway of the cabanas where we were staying and as it was on the other side of the gate to the park they were whistling at us to come pay the entrance fee, I know for one I didnt turn around I just took off up the road, you might want to whistle louder if you want me to turn around and pay a fee when I'm already past you.

We got up to the main gate just beofre 8 and got our tickets as it opened, pretty much the first in the door. The paths are really nicely kept and the green rainforest sets off the whole area. It was raining but that was no problem it wasnt cold at all and it really did give the palce this aura as we walked up the main walkway, the low misty clouds hanging over the hills.

You walk straight up the first steps after walking in and there are the ruins right in front of you, they are impressive there is no doubt about it, your first few is of the the Temple of the Inscriptions which is the temple you always see in the photos of Palenque. We walked around the then up into the El Palacio part of the ruins and up inside and around them. We had already been hanging around about an hour when a few more people started drifting in but not what you would call packed by any stretch of the imagination, it was funny there was a group of Russians and a group of Germans, you can hear the conversations in that group now, German dude: Where are you from? Russky: I'm from Stalingrad German: ohhhh my grandfather was there, boom.

Walking around some of the ruins was really slippery in the wet and I was having trouble in my super pyramid climbing boots or flip flops as they are called everywhere else in the world, on more than a few occassions I had to take them off to stop myself going ass over.

The ruins themself are great, really interesting and the jungle setting is amazing, it was just perfect and although im sure it looked alot different 1400 years ago it would of still been an amazing place to live. We continued walking around and then headed down the path on the northern end towards the exit to the museum, we werent going to walk down there as we knew the bikes were a fair way back so we turned around and headed back up the path. As we did we saw another trail off to Group C of the complex so we thought lets take this one and have a look where it goes. We walked along it for a few hundred metres, down over a little bridge and then up the hill on the other side, then came to the ruins of this part of the site. And wow this was great, it was the residential area of the city and of course they weren't anywhere near as impressive as the main temples and palaces, but it was all overgrown, the mist from the clouds was heavy, the rain drizzling down and it really gave you a great look at what it must of been like to stumble across this place all the years ago in the mid 19th century when it was found.

We walked around this part of the complex for as long as we did the main sites, all of us just soaking in the atmosphere. Eventually we headed back out of there and as we got to the turn off in the trail a rope had been put across it to stop others accessing this part fo the site, Ok the steps up to the area was slippery as hell and someone might break there neck but wow I felt bad that they were all going to miss such an experience cause for me it really was a highlight of the day as much as the main pyramids and temples are quite impressive.

We walked back through another trail which took us to the main exit but we still wanted to get a few more photos of the Temple of the Inscriptions so we walked back up and while we were there went and had a look at the tombs in the one next door which had been locked when we first walked past. We went in, it wasnt to exciting you seen one tomb you seen them all and these certainly were no Ramses 3 tomb or any of the others I saw while I was in Egypt and the Valley of the Kings, that joint was pretty damn amazing.

We headed out of the ruins site and jumped on the bikes and headed down the road to the museum. It was nearly 11:30 by now and we hadnt made any decision on what we were doing, we had thought about hitting thee road to somewhere up the way but in the end we spent about 45 minutes around the museum and by the time we got back to the cabanas i was feeling pretty tired and we were wet so we decided one more night here and we will leave tomorrow. Bruise had to go into town he has had some mess up with his banking, his card is not spitting out cash for him so he has had to wire money to himself and as he was low he was off to stay in town in a hotel where he could use his credit card to pay.
Me and Ev relaxed for the night and didnt even bother going over to the restaurant to hang out with the hippis we just chilled in our own litle space which is really nice and quiet. What a day and with great company too.



Walked in and up the stairs and straight to the main ruins, pretty impressive I must say. Ewa rugged up in her wet weather gear.







Me and Bruise taking out turn in front of the camera.







Up into the El Palacio ruins, it was slippery as all hell I nearly came down a few times, in the end I just took them off, I'm backing the locals walked around here barefoot for hundreds of years with no problems.







The mist that hung over the ruins certainly gave it a great feel, if it is raining don't put your trip to here off its great.































Then we headed down to the residential section which in the end was closed off after we had been in, it was amazing down here, I don't think the pictures I have can do any justice to the feeling you had when you were walking around in this area.











Come Eva this is a family blog keep your filthy thoughts to yourself.















We then walked back around to the Temple of the Inscription's for a few more photos, here we are lovin up in Palenque.




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Old 12-14-2013, 10:14 PM   #1551
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Back to our humble little abode for the night here in Palenque.











How could I leave my baby out in the rain like that I felt bad all night.







We went for a bi9t of a walk around the cabanas here's just a couple of the area its really very nice.







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Old 12-15-2013, 05:27 PM   #1552
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You certainly are seeing some sights. Beautiful places. Nice roads....apart from the odd pothole....ugly women to drag around with you. you poor bastard.

I just spent the weekend riding around your home neck of the woods down to Nabiac then up to Gloucester and up Thunderbolts way to Armidale and home. Good bit of country, nice weather here at the moment, not so hot.

If I don't say anything before Xmas, You and Ev have a great one. Enjoy. I'm off to Malaysia for a couple of weeks.
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Old 12-15-2013, 06:07 PM   #1553
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Staying another night gave us a chance to check out the maps and where were were heading. We were going to ride north with Bruise in the morning to where he turns off to Chetmul on the border of Belize but we soon realised that the Yaxchilas ruins were in the exact opposite direction and we had been told they were pretty good to see, not to mention they are a 20 kilometre ride up the the river.

We packed up early and went back into town to see Bruise in Palenque proper, We had breakfast in the nice hotel where he was staying which was bloody expensive, then said our goodbyes to Bruise and hit the road the 160 k's to Yaxchilas.

It only took us a few hours the road was ok, pretty straight forward with the regulation million speed bumps, they really are just everywhere, on a positive note they do give you an oppurtunity to overtake quite a few cars as us on the bikes dont have to slow down to a stop like they seem to do always.

We arrived in the small village of Frontera Caroloz and rode down to the waterfront where all the boats left for Yaxchilas, this is also a place where you can cross into Guatamala via boat. The immigration office is up the road about 200 metres on your right as your heading down to the waterfront, you cant miss it its not a big village, but not sure about what you would do with your temporary import permit for your motorbike if you want to cross here. It is the quick way to the Tikal ruins in Guatamala, you might want to check that out, maybe you can do it in Palenque or there is another small town on the way with a pretty big military presence and another with a large police presence but do your own research on that.

We found a nice hotel right on the waterfront with Howler monkeys going off their heads up in the trees, we couldn't see them from where were were but they were around, there is camping here as well, we only realised that again after the fact but with the rooms are only 45 bucks and really nice and comfortable I wasnt to worried about that.

We unpacked and went for another walk all around the village checking out the prices of the boats for the morning , we had heard you can hang around and wait for a shared boat and get it cheaper but it was only going to save us 20 bucks so we weren't to fussed whatever happened. We had dinner, chicken snitzel for me, unfortunately burnt chicken snitzel, Ev just laughed and so did I, the shit she ordered looked like it had just come out of someones bum, seriously it was disgusting. I argued that you will never see me sick eating this chicken so fried up, first the bug has to survive the frying away in the hot oil then it has to survive my guts, and if that wasnt enough to kill the most hardy soul of a bug it then has to put up with me drinking a few bottles of Coke. Mmmm fried chicken.

There is only one other couple here we talked to them but they are looking to stay up in the ruins for the whole day so that puts them out of the loop for us, we want to go up early and be back for the 1 pm checkout then return to Palenque. We will organize that all in the morning, there seems to be tonnes of boats around here and I'm sure there will be some captain willing to try and part us from our cash.



The local transport along and across the river here.








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Old 12-15-2013, 06:51 PM   #1554
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We got up at 7 am to get organized, Ewa wanted to have some breakfast before we left so we were up and at them pretty much straight away. We had the regualtion scambled eggs they seem to serve everywhere arofun here its usually pretty scrappy to let it be known, maybe they might want to atleast add a little salt to it to make it a little more mouth watering or something.

We piggd out and went for a walk to suss out the boat ride ok we got about 15 bucks off the first bloke but that was going to be it, in the end it cost us about 60 bucks for the two of us which is pretty expensive and even if you are willing to hang around and wait for 6 more people it's onlu going to save you 10 bucks per person.

We got sorted with a captain he spoke no English so there was going to be no conversation with him unless he wants to play charades with me. The boat ride was pretty uneventful and only took 45 minutes down stream which was ok and then we were there, heres a few pictures of the days boat ride and walk around the Yaxchilas ruins.



















Got my pyramid hiking boots on again.







Come on slow poke.











Ewa checking out some of the inscriptions on the rock carvings.















On to the next section we saw 3 other people in the whole site while we were there so high season my bum.
























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Old 12-15-2013, 08:11 PM   #1555
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Time to head back to the boat the bike and Palenque. As we headed back the tourist's started to arrive.







When we got back there was a few howler monkeys I think they were but Ev had never seen a wild monkey so she was excited.











The it was time to pack up and head back into Palenque. Here's a few shots of the ride back.















Can you just move over there so I can get a photo with just my baby enjoying the rainforests on the border of Mexico and Guatemala please Ewa, oh you had to go and photo bomb it didn't you Ev.












There is always a pretty big police and military presence but they always seem friendly, the very worst encounter I had was one military guy didn't smile but just nodded at me, the cheek of some people.







Another type of road block around here, not far outside of Palenque is cattle country and it reminds me a lot of home, lush green and very nice.







The sun is out so it's time to hang the washing out.

















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Old 12-15-2013, 08:17 PM   #1556
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Originally Posted by mettalique View Post
You certainly are seeing some sights. Beautiful places. Nice roads....apart from the odd pothole....ugly women to drag around with you. you poor bastard.

I just spent the weekend riding around your home neck of the woods down to Nabiac then up to Gloucester and up Thunderbolts way to Armidale and home. Good bit of country, nice weather here at the moment, not so hot.

If I don't say anything before Xmas, You and Ev have a great one. Enjoy. I'm off to Malaysia for a couple of weeks.

Cheers mate, safe travels and enjoy your Christmas as well. Sheldon & Ewa
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Old 12-15-2013, 08:25 PM   #1557
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We arrived back in Palenque and went for a ride around town and ended up in the same hotel Bruise had stayed in, hey they had Fruit Loops on the breakfast menu, that will do it for me even if it means I have to pay a little extra. We have taken an extra day off to do nothing but blog relax etc but tomorrow we head north toward the Yucatan, we aren't sure which way we will go yet, the coast road looks like it might be right up my alley, I Google mapped it and if it runs anywhere like the 30 metres from the ocean it say it does I will enjoy it, even if it is just a straight ride.
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:46 AM   #1558
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Yaxchilan ruins are one of my favorite ones.

Its a nice place, never crowded place, is not common to go there, because is not easy to go first to Frontera Corozal, and then take a boat.

Not too much people wants to take a boat to go there, and remember that in the river there are a lot of crocodiles.

: )
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Old 12-18-2013, 10:13 PM   #1559
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Yaxchilan ruins are one of my favorite ones.

Its a nice place, never crowded place, is not common to go there, because is not easy to go first to Frontera Corozal, and then take a boat.

Not too much people wants to take a boat to go there, and remember that in the river there are a lot of crocodiles.

: )


The Yaxchilas ruins were great, we shared our few hours there with one other couple and one other bird watching dude so we had out own space to walk around and take it all in at or leisure. Didn't see any crocodiles but wasn't swimming in the river either so they weren't a threat at all. Pretty amazing place.

We are actually still in Palenque for everyone wondering where we are, had a bit of rain so decided to just wait it out till we move on up to the Yucatan. There was 90 Polish people here last night on three buses so Ev was happy chatting away to everyone and we had quite a few drinks with some of the crew and ending up pretty drunk actually, we are out of here rain hail or shine tomorrow, hopefully shine.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:52 AM   #1560
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Hi Sheldon,

So you are heading to Yucatan from Palenque.

I was thinking you were planning to cross to Guatemala.

Actually not so so far (around 5hrs) : ) from Yaxchilan (Frontera Corozal) there are some very interesting places to visit in Chiapas. Chiapas is one of the most beautiful places in Mexico, there is a lot of fresh water all over the state, something not so common in Central and Northern MX.

Dont skip a visit to Lagunas de Montebello... its a group of beautiful lakes, nice place to visit.
El Chiflon - "Velo de Novia" waterfall

Bon Voyage
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