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Old 11-03-2011, 01:08 PM   #211
rideforsmiles OP
Sheldon
 
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Joined: May 2011
Location: Byron Bay Australia and Earth
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Got up and left Katima Mulilo this morning enjoyed my few days here but time to head to Livingstone in Zambia and the Victoria Falls. This is the first time I had to use the carnet as the southern African countries all come under one umbrella so you only need it stamped in then South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Swaziland and Lesotho its just a general crossing stamp stamp smile smile and your through without the worry of the carnet. Getting into Zambia was a little trickier but still ok, rode up to the Namibian gate go in fill the book in, give the customs guy my carnet he fills it in stamp stamp and its done. Got to the exit gate the dude there wants the road tax receipt I got the other day when I came in from Botswana oh shit where the friggin hell did I put that. No worries mate I got it here somewhere give me a minute so jump off the bike and start hooking through the pannier its 7:30am and already 32 degrees I froze my camel pack in my jacket last night so thats a bonus in all my gear having that frozen brick of ice on my back. As he was just saying saying dont worry about it oh cool here it is i knew I had it here somewhere. So hand it over and off I go to Zambia.







Ok ride up the road to the Zambian border office and its a pretty run down building ok its a dump theres a line up of about 30 people going into the office and 150 scamps trying to flog you kwacha or anuthing else they can, im thinking ok this might take awhile. Then one of the little insurance dudes in a Barcelone shirt comes up to me and just says no no come straight in and takes me straight past everyone to the immigration desk the immigration guy pushes the paperwork of the three people in front of me to the side reaches past them and grabs my passport ok stamp stamp that will be 50 dollars US heres your visa and says go to the office down the hall to customs Im looking around a my little Barca shirt mate who by the way was really friendly and not pushy at all came over and showed me the door I was meant to go in. This office was tiny the desk basically gave you room to walk in and stand there probaly just enough to swing a cat around, he cracked a joke about the broken window being his air con, he gets up and hits a button and on comes the air con, thats better. I hand my carnet over, had to pay something in there f$&ked if I know what it was and I really didnt care either he stamped the carnet and stamped it alright so I was happy. Had to pay in Kwacha not US dollars so dont let anyone tell you its all US dollars cause these guys wanted Kwacha, so my little Barcelona shirted mate changed it for me and fixed the customs dude up, ill check up what it was for he gave me a receipt it may of been a carbon tax i think. I gave my little mate a 10 buck US tip for his help so far, as you can imagine he was fairly stoked at that.

Thats all done we walk up to a another office ok it might of been a shipping container with a window cut into it and pay some other tax, with that done where off to old mate's shitty old caravan for third party insurance, if you've ever seen a caravan thats been left in a paddock for 40 years well compared to this it would be a mansion. I walk in with me ol mate, a big smile on my dial and say "oh you guys are living it up wheres the air conditioner" to which the girl points to the hole in the wall and says here it is ahahah by this stage where all having a laugh I say to ol barca shirt this isnt your wife is it mate making her sweat it out in here in the heat, they cracked up laughing, no no shes my aunty, oh I say thats ok then. They needed Kwacha for the third party too and he hasnt got enough so he calls one of his mates in to change the money. By this stage I was getting low I only had 160 US with me and had heard it was about 130 to cross into Zambia so I wasnt far away. Got all that sorted and then gave another 10 bucks US to me ol mate so im all done everyones happy smiling weve all had a laugh along the process and im heading back to my bike with a few Kwacha in my pocket so all good.

Ride off to waves from me little mate he was really nice a good salesman not pushy just really helpful and i know he appreciated the tip, he said it would be nice if there were more people like you. It might sound like im a little generous with my tips but f$&k it in reality its bugger all to us maybe a mac attack with my boys but it means so much to them.

So off I go riding across the bridge spanning the Zambezi river pretty spectacular view. Drove through the border town in Zambia of Swhaweke or something like that ill check later its already a change down again in living standards again. Old wooded stalls line the main drag pretty much how I pictured Africa actually so heading in the right direction.

Livingstone was another 190 k's away and it was getting warmish it was already up to 35 and rising. Rode for awhile theres alot of little villages along the road all very interesting everyone waving as I ride past. Riding for about 20 minutes and I come across this guy pushing his motorbike so I pull over and ask whats up mate. Out of gas he says so I say well that aint going to help is it how long you been pushing it for and he says about 5 kilometres, i guess that explain why he looks like hes about to drop dead hahaha I said to him ive got 10 litres how far you going i can give you some. You can imagine the look on his face one of relief and joy lol it was a good look. Hes going a few kilometres to his mates and he has petrol. Ok no dramas so take my jerry can off the bike and pour half of it into his machine. So he jumps back on trying to kick start it and hes so exhausted He hardly has the strength in his leg to kick start it so after a watching him struggle a few times and hes just sitting there on the machine looking rooted. I just say to him do you know how to cluth start it and he just shakes head and says no. By this time weve got a little crowd watching whats going on so I just say look get off let me start it for you. In neutral push push jump crunch brum brum away she goes. That was easy. He puts his helmet on i jump off he jumps on saying thank you thank you thank you, i slap him on the back saying no worries mate and off he rides. I bet you he was thinking as he rode off "f$&k that was a bonus" ahahah he did say god bless you so im guessing maybe he wasnt thinking that lol*

Hey im just trying to earn breakdown Karma credits my turn will come eventually probably.

In the end it turns out I had less juice in my tank than I thought so in the end after dumping the remaing half in my own tank a bit further on I only just made it to Livingstone. It was a good lesson to learn as much as its nice to help people dont leave myself in a predicament where i might be stuck. But anyway it all worked out good in the end.

Arrived in Livingstone No gps as I havent loaded the maps on yet so riding around blind but thats no big issue its a t interection you can go one way or the other and theres plenty of hostels around.





Ride through the main part of town and the first thing you notice is the only multi story building which *looks like it was buily a million years ago all discoloured yellowish paint black mould all over it broken windows looks like its ready to fall down lucky its not under the flight path of the local airport im pretty sure that would be enough vibration to bring it town. They just dont grasp the word maintenance over here in Africa, maybe its not even a word lol.

Found a decent lodge the Crossroads which is on the north side of town heading towards Lusaka all very friendly people so checked had a drink and jumped in the pool. Its a very local lodge so was nice to be the outsider so to speak. Got talking to the girl on the desk Inonge pretty little thing she is from Lusaka down here working.*

Went and had dinner and I got talking to the chef Winner thats probably not the way you spell it but its how its pronounced. He's seems like a really nice dude married 3 kids 10 and 9 just very kind dude from what I can gather obviously religion plays a big part in the lives of people around here im seeing that already anything you do is greeted with God bless you.

Hit my room to watch the champions league soccer and brinng brinnng the phone rings its Inonge asking what im doing, i tell her im watching the soccer she says why dont you come out here and watch in the foyer, ok why not. We chat for awhile jibbering small talk I must of made an impression on her when I had my shirt off in the pool this afternoon ahahah f$&k im choking quick someone slap me on the back.

Eventually shes gets called back to work so I take the chance to piss off again so I can watch the match and flick back and forth to the other games at the same time, 10 minutes to go in the game brinng briinnng the phone rings again why dont you come back out. Ok ill be out in a minute, so 10 minutes pass finish watching the games then i flick over to some stupid movie and start watching it then brinng brinng the phone rings again and Inonge says im going to bed, the night staff sleep on a mattress behind the desk, ok ill go out and say good night. Walk out all the lights are all off shes on the bed i think nows my chance to find that paperclip behind the desk so i can get the sim card out of my phone ahahaha being the gentleman and a scholar i am i said sweet dreams and chooffed off to bed....... Ttttttrust me I went to bed. Another nice day and nice friendly people, the people in Zambia are very very friendly.
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Old 11-03-2011, 03:43 PM   #212
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Woke up around 9 to the brrring brrring of the phone I thought thats it im going to go punch this chick in the head ahahahah im knocking off shes says, great tell someone who cares I reply, I'm glad she doesent quite get my accent and just said, what, ok ill come out and see you I say. I told her I was booking out today as im going to go stay at the jollyboys backpackers which I had read about but said to her give me your number and when I get my Zambian card today ill give you a call, last night I had told her I would take her to Vic Falls on the bike since shes lived here in Livingstone for 10 months and shes never been there. I said goodbye and go back to my room a chill for awhile.

Jump on the bike around 10 and head to town to find jollyboys, found it booked in air con room pretty crappy but ok, surprisingly this place reminds me of Bali so many years ago, cusions around everywhere people lounging around all over the place pretty good feel to it. Booked 3 nights ill see how it goes. Hang around for awhile then decide to go grab my Zambian sim card so walk down the road and suss it all out. Why im there I grab a munch at the Hungry Lion fast food joint, baby where have you been all my life, like Kfc but nowhere as greasy and the burger was friggin lush. Im sitting there pigging out on enough food to feed a small army and opposite me theres this bloke that looks like he hasn't eaten in a month watching my every bite. So naturally I do what any one would do I take a bite look at him and growl we both have a big smile and I grab my bag of chips and offer them to him and ask if he would like a drink, of course silly question so up I get and go buy him a Fanta.

Lunch done sim card organised im heading back to Jollyboys to grab the bike to go for a ride around to see the rest of Livingstone. Pretty warm today about 39 but still reasonable. I decide to ride out to the Vic Falls just to have a look at the setup entrance etc so when I go there it will be somewhat familiar. Ok done that heading back and theres the Falls resort, I had read about this place it has access directly to the falls so in I go and ask where's the reception. Talk to the guard for a few minutes he says if I want to go to the falls I can ride over and park in the car park and just walk up to the falls 100 metres down the road, so thats all cool.

Head over to reception and theres a group of guys in traditional dress dancing chanting and welcoming the guests. I walk in ok how much 487 US a night yeah right, dream on hairy legs. I walk back out and the guys in the traditional dress Patrick, Martin, Francis and Pintabi. The names are a classic here alot of western type of names ill have to ask someone if thats there real name or just the western name they have given themselves. Zambia was part of the commonwealth and has deep connections to Britain obviously Victoria Falls Livingstone etc so it may be there actual names.

Pintabi seeing my helmet asks am i on a bike and when I say yes he asks if he can have a sit on it. I say sure mate ill go get it and bring it around. So off I go and grab the bike and come back to reception. There all dancing around again welcoming other guest so I park by the side and wait for them to finish. I grab my camera out as they walk over Pintabi jumps straight on saying I dream to have a bike one day. They all gather around the bike and I grab a photo of them then I go into my pannier and break out the printer connect it to the camera and print them one each. They are amazed as has everyone ive been able to give a photo too. Pintabi asks if he can get one with just him on the bike so yeah no problems at all, so he jumps back on the bike take the pic and print it out for him. Patrick said I could make alot of money if I had something like that and asked how much it was. I said it was 200 US but with the battery and cartridges i think it was more like 300. When. I left they said make sure you come back to see us before you go which I will do but I wont be staying at that price.







Head back into town and cruise around all the backstreets then just head up towards the Crossroads Lodge was and as im turning around and just starting to head back into town here's some guy arm out the window waving frantically flashing his lights i think is this guy waving at me, im immediately thinking whats wrong but as I pass him its Winner the chef from the Crossroads. I throw him a wave as I go past and see that hes pulling into the carpark out front of the lodge so I do a uturn and go back and say hi. We talk for awhile he had seen me in town at the lights and waved and honked but I hadnt noticed him and now he's on his way to just pick the kids up from school. I asked if he would let me take him his wife and the kids to the falls or something else thats fun to do around here. I just said we can talk about it later and we said our goodbyes and I jumped back on the bike and off I went.

Rode back into town then took a left just off into some street and started riding down the road. Came across a soccer complex pretty crappy field but good for around here. Start heading back and theres this young bloke with a flat tyre on his push bike trying to juggle to large sacks of some sort of grain. I did ride past at first but then thought stuff it i might be able to help this guy out ive got 4 or 5 spare hockey straps in my kit. So jump off say gday and introduce myself to Swift. I ask him how far hes going and its only a kilometre, so thats ok. I said ive got something that might help so I go to my pannier and break out the hockey straps and strap one sack to the handle bars and the other to the back. I tell him I cant help him with pumping his tire up as ive got the compressor but the connection to plug it into the bike is at home. Ill have to remember to take that out of the tank bag and leave it on the bike somewhere permantly. We talk about school I asked if he played football but he plays volleyball. Its interesting the fact that most of the kids ive talked to that dont play football have played volleyball.



Swift pushing his bike with flat tyre with his new hockey straps to hold his stuff on.





I go back the bike and grab the camera out while im at the pannier and ask him if I can get a photo and he says yes so I snap away then crack the printer out again and he stands there just looking as it prints and then I give that to him say here have a spare hockey strap you might be able to use it somewhere. Following the standard God bless you God bless you I watch him as he pushes the bike away looking at the picture in his hand he looks back throws me one last wave as he goes around the corner.

Head back to the backpackers and cruise over to the bar for a drink and get chatting to Toby and Stephan two German guys sharing a room in one of the dorms. End up having a few beers which was different, its been since I was in Swakopmund and at the bike rally in Walvisbaai since ive had a beer and a ciggie, harden up princess and get some piss into ya. Since my computer died its been a real pain im blogging on my phone and although its pretty fast it takes shit loads longer than typing on the keyboard plus uploading photos has become a non event but there on the sd card so ok for now ill get to them in the next day or so. Had quiche for dinner tonight, I know real men dont eat quiche but Toby ordered it and I couldnt be f$&ked getting off my ass to look at the menu so just said ill have one of them to please.

After dinner I txt Inonge and got a call back we will hook up tomorrow and do something either the museum or the falls. Hit the fart sack at a reasonable hour after a million beers, all in all a real cruisey day just riding around Livingstone chatting and meeting the local crew. They certainly are very very friendly people around here. Maybe cause everyones so religious around here and they see that im a hethan they take pity on me lol.
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Old 11-04-2011, 01:39 AM   #213
Edventure
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This is a great ride report. Was in Zambia 3 years ago, very friendly people. Keep going!

Looking fwd to seeing the pictures.
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Old 11-04-2011, 02:55 PM   #214
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Sheldon
 
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Thanks for the support Edventurer even if this ride report is like being on a slow boat to China i'll get there eventually, I probably should give more thought to where there is I suppose hey, oh well i'll just keep riding till I get bored but as we all know on the open road with no destination in front of us is far from boring its like waking up and having your first ciggie in the morning bloody brilliant ahahahah*

Ill make point of getting some pics up.

Cheers mate
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Old 11-04-2011, 03:00 PM   #215
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Got woken up by my phone vibrating away it was Inonge txting asking what are we doing i txt back that I wasn't feeling the best and id txt her later. And really I was feeling a little crook must of been that quiche I ate bloody hippi food, of course it couldn't of had anything to do with the copious amounts of alcohol I consumed.

Hanging around the lodge then decided to go get my hair cut up the road so off I go walk out the front door and theres the boys hussling to buy their stuff. So end up having a friend along for the walk Duncan seems a nice enough guy they are just peddlars trying to eek out a living. He takes me to a hairdresser which i already knew but it's all ok, it was pretty crewed out so thought id go find a computer shop, so he asks a bloke and showed me where it was. They were closing for lunch so I said to Duncan have you eaten ill buy you lunch if you dont hassle me again while im here. He agrees so we go off to the shop I say to him what are you going to order a rump steak and 20 beers, we both laugh he has a pie a bit of chicken and a drink, cost about 4 or 5 bucks or something like that. We enjoyed out lunch having a chat, me learning a bit more of life of the local in Zambia

Ok hes had a succesful morning I guess you know they probably are annoying but their just trying to survive its just that you no sooner get rid of one and you got another one hassling you. Its probably the worse ive come across in my travels in Africa so far but having spent time in Asia at times its all just part of it, the difference in Asia they dont follow you cause theres another tourist along behind you in 20 seconds where as here there is just not so many.

Went back and got my hair cut, im looking at the place didnt see any sciccors just clippers so he starts hooking into my head with them. Im sitting there thinking this will be interesting. 5 minutes later its looking a little dodgy so just say to him take it all off mate that will make it easier. So 15 minutes later im walking out with a shaved head, i only ever had it done once before 16 years ago after winning the grand final with Umina on the Central Coast in 95, shit hey 95 that was 16 years ago, how time flies, its bullshit. What an amazing year that was everyone in the team said it was the best years soccer in their life, was an amazing team all ages all mates playing great football under a good coach and an inspirational fantastic captain ahahaha yeah you guessed it I was the captain lmao was a great year we won everything and were and still are all great mates.

Anyway this is supposed to be a blog on motorbike travel through Africa not me playing wog ball with a group of bums in the ancient history so back again to the blog. Txt Inonge and said would you like to go to the falls so ok ill pick you up in 30 minutes at the lodge. Ok im there but no Inonge so I sit down and have a drink with Winna and say is it the same with chicks here you say a time and add 2 hours on, he just laughed and said yes. Inonge turns up looking pretty hot in her get up so chuck the helmet on her head and off we go. Shes never been on a bike or to the falls so its a day of firsts for her.

We arrive and my security mate at the Falls waves to me as I pull up and comes over for a chat. Park the bike and walk on over to the Victoria Falls. Pay the entrance fee and off we go Inonge is in high heels and is struggling on the path so I say just take them off and carry them its ok we walk down and around the falls its quite spectacular but they do say the view from the Zimbabwian side is better and you can see that with the water volume coming from up that way so ill definately be making my way over there at some stage. We walked around for a few hours stopping to take it all in getting to know her a bit better and talking about her dreams of becoming a teacher and how much it costs. Its only 400 bucks a term 3 terms a year but as you can imagine thats alot of money for the normal worker over here. I take her home and we go into her pad ok most of us would call it a shed with a tin roof, very very basic but its her home and from what I have seen of some of the workers its probably a pretty plush joint.

As I was on the way back to Inonges place we past a guy on a 1200 adventure obviously just coming into town through him a wave and I wonder where he's heading. Got back to Jollyboys and theres the adventurer in the car park so cool I will find this dude and have a chat later. Hung out chatting to Stephan and Toby the German guys they both had good days Toby with his kayaking Stephan with his full day of rafting so everyone was happy. Bump in the guy on the adventurer ask him where he's from and turns out he is a Russian from Moscow flew into Nairobi and done Lake Malawi and heading south.

I said to him dont tell me your names either Yuri or Petrov and he say no its Andre to which I said I knew it would be something stupid like that so we got off on the right foot having a laugh. We all hung out for a few hours dribbling shit about where weve been and where we are going the standard jibber when your travelling. Another good day at the office but beddy byes for this little black duck. Arreviderchi
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Old 11-05-2011, 06:36 AM   #216
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Had a really great day today lots of nice people and an amazing experience in the Devils Pool on the edge of the Victoria Falls.

Got up at a reasonable hour and headed over to have some breakfeast. Andre's there chatting with Stephan so I join them and we get jibbering. Andre is going for a ride this morning to the falls and Stephan had mentioned last night that he was going to the Devils pool on the edge of the Falls so when he reminds me of that I say im want to that im just going to book in so off I go and do it.

Came back and just hung around the bar area and met a few South African guys, their doing the booze cruise later. One of them was from Sandton City the other from Port Elizabeth. I tell them the story of while I was in Sandton City mall where theres the 50 foot high statue of Nelson Mandela that I had to ask the bloke I was with Kill who the hell is that of course knowing it was Mendela.*

I told them that I posted the pic on my facebook page telling how I had to ask who it was and got a reply from my mate Deavsey saying shit your an idiot Sheldon everyone knows thats Mohammed Ali, to funny.

Just continued to hang around, the Devils pool trip isnt till after lunch so got plenty of time to check out the european eye candy and theres some here too. Theres a nice German girl Anne long blonde hair blues eyes umm yes please ahah sorry Anne couldnt help myself shes a teacher back home and we chat for awhile how she got into teaching etc etc im not 100% sure and it was hard to know with absolute certainty cause of the reflection of her blue bikini top *but im pretty sure she had a head, ok im only joking she was really nice. She was only down here for a few weeks in Zambia visiting her girlfriend who lives in Lusaka organising volunteer places here and is heading home in the morning.

So me being me I thought i'll do my best to impress her so I strut over to the pool and rip my shirt off and dive in. I come up and look over at her and she looks at me with those beautiful blue eyes but has a strange look on her face like she's about to spew and just holding it in, I guess she must of had that quiche for dinner last night poor thing ahahahah ok that didnt happen but its the thought that counts and im sure thats what she was thinking off my Hoff impersonation, maybe I should of worn some red budgie smugglers ahaha

Hang in the pool for awhile then get out to go get organised to go to the Devils Pool at the falls. Give Stephan my helmet and we jump on the bike to head over to the falls. The guy at the gate says oh you need a helmet or the police will charge you and I just say they have to catch me first. The price of things over here its probably only going to cost me about 5 bucks even if they do so I dont really give a rats ass.

We arrive at the falls im not totally silly at the border and the entrance to the falls theres shitloads of coppers so I just park in the Falls car park again as its only 100 metres up the road. Slip me ol mate a tip this time as he was gone yesterday when me and Inonge left so he was happy.

We were on time so we headed over to the entrance paid our entrance fee and a little while later met our guide Leonard and we head off to the falls.

Its only a k or two but im really struggling my back is killing me not a good sign it friggin sucks and the back pack im carrying doesent help. Theres only me Stefan and an american guy Justin so its all good Justin's struggling a bit with the rocks which im coping with ok so keeping up with him is no probs. Leonard is setting a fast pace Stefan is with him but they just stop and wait for us to catch up. We stop at a few points right on the edge and look over its pretty amazing. By the time we are almost at Livingstone island and had been walking for probably just on an hour it must of been obvious I was struggling. I had told Stefan about my accident the other night and that my back and neck are pretty shit now so he offered to carry my pack which was really nice of him but I just said ill just plod along mate ill get there. The bummer is being in this much pain just takes that enjoyment factor down a tad which is a shame. I must admit though it was f$&king killing but I said to the boys its just shit I have to deal with but look where I am at the Victoria Falls walking to the Devil's pool it could be worse with a bit of a laugh. Justin says yeah you could be at home in your couch in pain to which I resonded "exactly". He told me that his old man had a bad back so maybe he's seen that a bit.

I remember after the accident I got my little guy Logan to draw a picture of me while we were just mucking around one day, he was 7 a half at the time 18 months after the accident with me still pretty sick and sorry and he draws a picture of me lieing in bed not the kind of image you like your kids to have of you obviously. I tell you that little guy was a deadset legend throughout my recovery I'll never forget how much he showed just what a beautiful caring gentle soul he has inside him. I guess its pretty obvious im missing my little Logie bear right now. Daddy loves ya buddy.


Anyway getting over that little episode, harden up princess.We get to Livingstone island and the Devils pool is just a short swim across the next part of the Zambezi. There is a rope across but thats only there to grab if the current gets you as the next stop is a 100 odd metres below. You swim up stream diagonly agaist the current then let it bring you back down onto a little rock platform and then theres the Devils Pool.

Now when picturing it in my own head I was thinking ok it'll be just sort of near the edge but nothing to suss You know there not going to do anything to unsafe are they. Leonard starts explaining that you put a foot here a foot there and the throw yourself out towards the falls, ill tell the three of us are sitting there looking at each other going GET well you know what, it was off its head, you want us to jump out where the water humping over the Falls right there. The pool itself is about 10 feet to the falls and 10 feet wide with the main part of the Zambezi river flowing just to your right and I mean just to your right. So here we are standing on a rock shelf about 3 feet above the pool and the edge of the falls. Leonard says you have to jump right in the middle cause theres rocks under there and dont jump to the right cause you will go over the falls, great so in he goes and the he moves to the edge and up he jumps up and sits on a little 2 foot ledge with nothing but the falls cascading down over the edge around him. I'll be totally honest I felt safer jumping into the water with a 12 foot great white shark next to me than doing this but oh well if he can do it I can do it so we all stand up and look at each other a pretty large crowd of onlookers on the Zimbabwian side of the falls just pointing waving and watching and one after the other we all take the leap of faith and in we go lol

Wow I have to say I had read this was a must do and there not joking amazing stuff, if you ever do come here to the Vic Falls on the Zambian side spend the 50 odd bucks and do the Devils Pool absolutely amazing, im pretty sure if I was feeling like I was there would be some people that would just go no way jose and dog it at the last minute but its perfectly safe probably as safe as sticking your tongue in an electrical socket id imagine.

While your in the pool you plank over the edge of the falls surely everyone knows what planking is now. I had some real issues doing that lieing on my chest on the rock platform arching my back is pretty much a no go zone for my me but pushed myself hard to do it and hang my head over the falls, I havent enjoyed pain for awhile but that was just so mad. We hung around in there for awhile getting a few pictures and then all climbed out looking back on what surely will be a great memory for us all.

By the time we left the weather had cooled a fair bit so was a much easier walk back and from what it seemed Leonard took us and easy way back I guess thats standard they like to make it as adventures as possible and take you the long way so they feel taking that amount of doesent seem a jip but for me personally that thrill and to be able to do that would of been worth 50 bucks even if was a 10 second walk to the pool.

Justin got a lift back to town with a Norwegian couple and me and Stefan walk back through the markets, he was buying a few things, and haggled around and got the deal he was looking for, i didnt want anything so once thats was all done we walked off to grab the bike and headed back to Jollyboys.






Get back and chill out talking to Andre and a few of the other crew. Had a message from Winna hes had a few problems and would like to talk to me. Ive had those phone calls before generally means hes going to ask for cash. Was putting off calling him but hey he's a nice bloke with a young family it may be something else ill ring and talk to him and find out whats up.

Well my first hunch was right turns out the Lodge he and Inonge work for has a problem and cant pay them this week and wont be able to till next week. That sucks, the system in Africa is fucking digrace I tell ya the rich get richer and the poor well who gives a f&$k. I might of said this before but if your an unscrupulous businessman and dont mind shafting your workers and paying peanuts Africa is the place to be. Of course you will have to endure overseas holidays and driving large Range Rovers but hey you cant have it all your own way.

I did give him a fair bit in his standards but in Australian standards about what I take for a night out so im sure it will tide him over till he gets paid, I don't really care what he does with it he is a nice family man struggling to make ends meet and they have invited me into their home on several occasions. (UPDATE early 2013 got an email from Inonge and Wina at got sick and has died) I was going to make a contribution to the orhanage so ill just deduct it out of that amount. You know I like helping out people I meet who are friendly and helpful but it sort of feels like your propping up a corrupt system but whats the alternative they starve. You try and do the right thing but it so little. Ive been watching these occupy wall street etc sit ins around the world and im proud to say my son Jared is part of it. Protesting that the distrubution of the wealth is totally all wrong at the moment bailing out banks countries etc so all the nobs can keep there flash cars houses and give themselves nice fat bonuses while so many in the world are living in absolute poverty and im seeing it first hand here as I travel through Africa and im not liking what I see.

Dont be surprised to see that occupy protest gain in momentum it reminds me a bit of the climate change debate 20 years ago you were a tree hugging hippi if you mentioned the climate nowadays its probably past the tipping point of people that believe there is something going on rather than those that just deny it.

These redistrubution of the wealth protests I can see are only the beginning and interestingly I saw that a few courts have thrown out charges agaisnt some of the protesters which is a pretty significant step if the courts refuse to punish the people involved in these peaceful sit ins. Lets just hope the anarchist dont get involved and cause trouble cause it should be about the love of our fellow man. Like everyone else that has pondered the question, well what do you do, I guess you just care.

Anyway political ranting must have to much time up my sleeve, oh thats right I do. Youve got the clock ive got the time as they say.

Devils Pool Victoria Falls Zambia. WOW






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Old 11-05-2011, 10:06 AM   #217
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Fascinating insight, I'm thinking hard about doing a 1yr stint next June. Hows the diesel supply in the remote places compared to petrol?

Do you have a house to go back to or did you sell up and leave? (I scanned the first few posts).

Thanks for sharing all this.
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:25 PM   #218
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Hey Snoopy, other than my sons back in Australia ive got 4 boxes of personal things to go home to. I didnt own the home I was living in and basically gave everything else away beds, lounge suites, all electrical gear tvs, dvds players, the Wii, Playstation 3, all kitchenware you know pretty much everything that would fill a four bedroom house so everything went other than my other motorbike and that nearly went as well, I probably should of given that to one of my mates its just sitting in my mums garage going to waste. When I do go home ill just start again which im able to do as I should still have a few bucks up my sleeve so its all good.

I see your in England 90% of the riders ive met from Europe have flown into Nairobi and headed south. Getting out of or into northern Africa in your case is a hassle, from Libya sort of out of bounds at the moment and the bit of trouble in Syria, by the way the Syrians wilk take all your Gps and electrical equipment then post it to you when you leave. Of course there are other ways to get in and out but all have their own complications hence why most have just been jumping straight to Nairobi in Kenya. They do say also the north part of Kenya into Ethiopia has troubles with bandits and if you are going to that section to do it in a convoy or even put your bike on a truck. I'm going through there in a few months so ill be able to give you first hand details on it. I carry an extra roll of duct tape just in case I get shot, duct fixes everything so they say plus the pain my back and neck are giving me they'd be doing me a favour to put a bullet between my eyes plus id get to make the newspapers probably. Speaking of Nairobi I was talking to a few guys that had just been there in the last few days and cause the Kenyans have crossed the border and bombed a few towns theres been a few retailtory strikes in Nairobi so obviously you have got to keep and eye on things, the political situations can change pretty quickly over here.

Fuel and deisel in southern Africa is fine though Malawi at the moment has major fuel shortages and apparently its got to the point now that there trashing servos in frustration which obviously is going to help improve the situation any quicker but by next year when your thinking of doing your ride it maybe all fine. Even the black market fuel is scarce so they say so thats a worry as im heading there next week. The secret anywhere down here outside of South Africa which is totally fine, if you see fuel stop and get it. Enjoy the preperation June will come around very soon. I just thought id add that dont be put off by any negative talk from outside of Africa its safe as a bank with common sense and everyone ive come across since June here has been so friendly, you would have an amazing time.
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:52 PM   #219
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Had a day off from doing anything but hanging around the pool relaxing so very nice day still about 37ish but all good. Met a few crew who arrived they had been up in Zanzibah so got a few good insights into that part of the world which will come in handy. Hung around in the evening with the south African boys Tyronne and Gregg really nice blokes just to remind me of how friendly everyone was in South Africa, their off to Malawi, Rwanda and Uganda. That basic route I had in my head when I left home. Time will tell if I get there to be honest im sore as f$&k which is no fun at all at the moment and im starting to question my ability to keep going, but whats the alternative go home and sit on a couch and winge, no thanks.*

I think I know what it is, ive been staying in this busy backpackers Jollyboys in Livingstone and have been meeting some fantastic people and having alot of fun but its surprising how much just being social all the time drains me. Alot of my trip so far ive stayed in places where im one of very few people or the only person there so I can go out and talk to the owner/manager or possibly a few people but then just hang around and chill in my own space whereas here you walk out the door and theres 40 odd people around and you sit down for 5 minutes and your having a conversation with someone then you or they walk off and someone else sits down you know what I mean. Dont get me wrong I love that and the people are all great but im finding its draining me badly which seems to effect me physically and my back and neck are just giving me f$&king hell, I dont know im no quack maybe im just being a skirt wearer, I could do with a break from this pain though, winge winge winge winge winge SHHHUUUUTTTUP

Anyway thats my bitch session for the day, yeah I know Harden up princess.

Just throwing in random photos
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Old 11-13-2011, 10:53 PM   #220
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Where are the pictures?????

Enjoying the ride report but you need to get some pictures in there so we can all see what you're talking about.
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Old 11-16-2011, 08:43 AM   #221
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Where are the pictures?????

Enjoying the ride report but you need to get some pictures in there so we can all see what you're talking about.
Yeah i just got my computer back so will be putting some up in the next few days plus the internet is poop here uploaded 5 pics to facebook the other day and it took an hour, cheers Ed
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:55 AM   #222
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Goodonya Mate

Excellent RR glad to see you giving it a go, as for yer car accident i can empathise with you totally on that, i had the same thing happen only i was rear ended by a 4x4 not a semi type truck, definately changed my life for the worse i might add, anyways chin up and all that get into it mate lookin forward to the next instalment
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Old 11-27-2011, 12:14 PM   #223
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Excellent RR glad to see you giving it a go, as for yer car accident i can empathise with you totally on that, i had the same thing happen only i was rear ended by a 4x4 not a semi type truck, definately changed my life for the worse i might add, anyways chin up and all that get into it mate lookin forward to the next instalment
Thanks for the support Tarletan, we all go through difficult times in our lives whether they be accidents or whatever else but sometimes you just have to pick yourself up set positive goals and set out to try and acheive them, whats the other alternative to sit on your ass and whine how bad things are, sometimes it seems the positive option is like a never ending fight but the alternative isnt to attractive is it

I know in my case how fortunte I was to get out of my accident with injuries that obvioulsy have restricted me to some degree but not totally so I dont think of my accident as changing my life for the worse I just look at it a bump in the right direction cause without that happening I might not be where i am today.

Looking back on the whole last 4 years with my injuries and all the pain asscoiated with my recovery the hardest thing I went through was when they didnt think I was going to make it holding my son Jared's hand and saying "Just grow up to be a good man" seeing him so devastated was and will always be the most painfull memory of the the whole thing. I remember thinking "well ive had a good run" so everyday I am on this adventure and travelling around is an beautiful bonus of life.

Its funny people are always surprised and think riding around to some pretty remote spots in Africa by myself must be challenging, if only they knew what id been through in the last few years this is an absolute breeze and im loving every single minute of it.

Hope your recovery is going good and keep up the good fight mate.

By the way im still in Livingstone its nice here the people are great and im enjoying staying here for awhile

Everytime I look at the accident photos im still amazed how I got out of that little bingle.
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Old 11-27-2011, 01:49 PM   #224
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Where i've been slaving it out, Jollyboys backpackers, Livingstone, Zambia.
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:20 PM   #225
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Great report so far. I hope u are ok to finish out your adventures. Look forward to some pics.
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