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Old 11-08-2013, 11:53 PM   #1441
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When we got to our room last night and tried to go to bed we pulled back the sheets we were confronted with a bed that was disgustingly dirty, sand, hair and everything through it and Ev started itching straight away, man the cleaner obviously hadn't even bothered to sweep the dirty sheet it was so bad. I never complain cause I have stayed in some pretty bad joints in my time and you just make do but this attempt at cleaning a room was just as bad as I've seen anywhere. Anyway the room next door was ok and we had a pretty good nights sleep and the owner was a real nice guy so all good wasn't really any big deal.


The bike was parked out the front under cover as we got some rain last night.







As we left Creel this morning I saw another Bmw so pulled over to see if the rider was around and he was in having a coffee. Gilbert a local manager at the skyway tram came out and had a chat for awhile then invited us to join him for a coffee so our leaving time was a little bit later than we expected and we almost stayed another day after his invite to come riding with him and back to the sky train, but with Mikes wedding on the 16th in San Miguel de Allende and all the riding I still want to around here it was time to move forward towards Parrl Durango and the Devil's Spine about 500k's south of here through the Copper Canyon.







The main street of Creel Mexico.











Finally on the road and time to find some petrol on the hwy running through Creel.




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Old 11-09-2013, 12:26 AM   #1442
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This lake just outside of Creel was just beautiful.







This has to be every bikers dream seeing his two girls getting it on.








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Old 11-09-2013, 12:30 AM   #1443
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Tell me you wouldn't like to ride this road, no traffic, no cops, good surface and plenty of corners, I was actually thinking today I had gone to motorcycle heaven, today had to go into the top 3 rides I've had in the whole trip right up there with the north of Spain.







The views around here are truly spectacular.







This was looking back down at one section after winding its way up the hill, simply amazing.







Ewa enjoying the view












Ev making little friends along the way, hey what are you doing giving my chocolate biscuits away to that little blood sucker.







One of the very few straight sections so stopped for a photo op in the middle of the road just to show how little traffic was around, I was fully rugged up by now as it was only 9c.












We arrived in Parrl just after dark what an amazing days riding, 300+ kilometers of just pure motorcycle paradise. We walked over to Domino's for dinner and we shared our pizza with a few of the kids out the front who were watching Ice Age on the Tv inside the shop. Tomorrow Saturday we head for Durango and the start of the Devils Spine down to Mazatlan which I'm really looking forward to, I have heard nothing but good things about this ride.

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Old 11-10-2013, 07:39 PM   #1444
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We got up and hit the road for Durango the road was pretty unexciting but a good ride all the same, it had some fun sections but for the most part we were just killing distance to Durango, the other end of the Copper Canyon and the Devil's Spine road. At one point we stopped at a little out of the way service station for petrol and when I went to start the bike again I got the EWS error message again and the bike wouldn't start. After researching it I knew it was the ignition antenna that sends that fault and have read it sometimes doesn't start working again at all, it wouldn't be to much of a problem in civilization but if it happens out in the backwoods of nowhere I will be in big trouble, its not the first time I have seen it but fortunately every time it comes up the bike has restarted a few minutes later, touch wood.


Waiting, waiting and waiting and brrrrrmmmmmmm




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Old 11-11-2013, 07:27 AM   #1445
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Arriving in Durango we were both pretty tired but we still hit the town for a walk, it was a pretty dusty and dirty town as it looked like they have had some rain here lately but the centre of town was really very nice and seemed to be very family orientated.



Durango 450 years old.

























Ewa making some new friends.







Some of Durango by the day in the morning before we left. The Rincon suites cost us about 50 bucks, again right in the centre of town, if you want to be close to the centro with secure parking I your going to pay a little more I guess.







Who says the Mexicans aren't civilized











Stopped off to watch some local football for awhile, they were trying to play real soccer but the crap pitch made it near impossible to play a passing game like they were trying to, just roost it up the other end guys and score from there stuff the beautiful game.




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Old 11-11-2013, 07:33 AM   #1446
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We had an amazing days ride through the lower end of the Copper Canyon along the Devil's Spine, Ewa had done some research on the area and apparently it was one road that was unsafe to travel on and was one of the reasons they opened up the new expressway along the route from Mazaltan to Durango. She didnt go into specifics but it was once a road wehere alot of people used to turn up dead the latest attack back in 2011 so really ancient history in Mexico's war on drugs thing. The only military check point was manned by young soldiers none of them more then their very early 20's, to me that says there isnt that much of an issue here any more in this region as they tend to have the more experienced older guys patrolling danger hot spots. The riode itself was pretty slow going the corners are tight and there was a few trucks on the road which you had to contend with, on one occassion I saw a truck moving along pretty fast so let him come around one of the hair pin bends before I went around and sure enough he was on my side of the road so it was the right decision to be patient.

The ride itself is around 270 kilometres from El Salto to Mazalton so its a fairly long ride but with terrific views over looking the Copper Canyon. The first section at the Durango end was fast, good roads and fantastic. We were riding through a small village town about 30 k's past El Salto and a few crew waved at Ev, I had missed them concentrating on the speed bump I was about to hit at 90 km and hour. Ev tapped me on the shoulder so I loooked over and saw them all by the side of the road with their Bmw's in front of a cafe so slowed down did a U-turn and went back for a chat.

It turned out they were all local guys and a very pretty girl from El Salto, Durango region and had just been riding down the Devil's Spine for a few hours, my first reaction was what do guys in El Salto do to get Bmw's like these as it wasnt a real flashy looking town when we went through it so I asked Erick and he told me his family owned a grocery store. Quite a few of the guys had all 2011 anniversary additions of the F800 gs so there was nice bikes in the group along with the Gs 1200. We chatted to them for awhile Erick was pretty much the only one that could speak english but Ev was having luck practicing her Espanyol on some of the others why I used sign language to describe things, hey it seems to work. What a really ncie crew of people they inducted us into their Neuvo Adventuro bike club as honary memebers and said El Salto will always be our home, with shaken hands and hugs we we back on the road again. The Mexican people have been super friendly everywhere we have been and both me and Ewa are loving our time here.

We had left latish today and didnt want to be getting to the other end of the Devil's Spine to late in the afternoon as it heads west and that wouldn't be conjusive to good vision looking directly into the sun. Erick had given us the tip to get petrol in this small town as it was sort of scarce further on and with a few hundred k's to go, it ended up being good advice as i didnt see any Pemex or other normal petrol station along the way so it would of been ol back yard benny's for petrol and thats never the best, well you know what I mean it always gets your bike going but if you are to have petrol issues they are the sorts of places you are going to find water or rubbish in the fuel.
It ended up taking us quite a few hours of riding to get along the Devil's Spine and that few hundred kilometres the views were spectacular to say the least so there was quite a few stops alomg the way to take it all in and grab a photo or two. We did the right thing by hitting the road at the time we did cause as we got closer to the end the sun was starting to become an issue so I timed it just perfectly. I was tired it had been a long days concentrating but we decided to turn left onto the expressway and head south to kill a bit of distance between us and Guadalajara which was still about 500k's south.

We turned onto the expressway and rode for awhile longer and ended up oin a small town Acaponeta it wasnt the pretiest town but we found a nice hotel on the main drag for pretty cheap so all good. In the end we rode just on 450 k's today and alot of that in the hills so you can imagine I was fairly stuffed it had been a long day where it was coolish up in the hills to down on the flat where it was 34 degrees celcius again. If you are ever in this part of the world it certainly worth the ride.




















El Salto the town where the guys were from, not the place you would expect to see a group of Bmw riders with all the latest gear.

















































There was quite a few of these slides not they were a problem unless of course you lived underneath them.







Downtown Acaponeta












If you ever need parts for an old bug I know the town to come too








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Old 11-14-2013, 07:17 PM   #1447
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We wet down the street for dinner last night and had a few tacos in one of the local vendors on the side of the road but that didnt really cut the mustard so we walked on down the main drag and found a little Chinese restaurant so in we went and pigged right out, it is quite funny to be eating Chinese in the backwoods of Mexico tryng to buy it of a Chinese lady who cant speak any Spanish. We went back to our room full and happy after a great day but today it was up and at them and heading south towards the town of Tequila and Guadalajara.

Today we were on the road by 11, standard for us, we hit the expressway again for the most part, we had looked at Google maps last night and seen that the old highway pretty much was a straight through road till the town of Ainxton del Rio a few hundred k's south. we just rode minding our own business making good time. The tolls are quite expensive here really about 4 bucks a hit so starts to add up after awhile. We were actually down to our last 50 pesos so either way we were turning off the expressway at the next exit fortuately that turned out to be the town we were waiting on Ainxton del Rio.

We rode around town and stopped for a drink and to find a bank, the towns are all pretty similar with the centro the focal point then the shops and housing off that so if you are anywhere you just head to the centro and your home and hosed really. All the centres have been really nice too with manicured trees in just about all the centre squares. We spent a bit fo time relaxing and taking in the town and grabbing a few photos but then it was time to make tracks.



Having a break in Aixtlan del Rio.







Some days the shopping just takes more out of you than you think.



















As we left Aixtlan del Rio we saw out first pyramid road sign so had to stop for a gander at what it was all about. They were from pretty civilized times apparently what they called the western Mexican people.








We hit the road towards Tequila hoping to find some petrol on the way, there was a petrol station marked on the Maps With me pro but when we got there it was a no go and as I was on reserve it was back to town we went. It was only about 10k's so no big drama and I was able to ride through a field and cut across some road works to hit the expressway so that cut a fair bit of the time down as well.

We got back into town filled up with gas and were riding back out and came across Jake from Columbus Ohio on his push bike again, it is the third time we had come across him, the first in Ensanada where we hadnt talked to him then further down in Baja and now here in Ainxton del Rio. Turned out he had got sick and was crook as a dog but a local family had taken him in and looked after him for a week and fed him gave him some where to sleep and really took care of him and then wouldnt accept a cent for their troubles. So he was feeling much better obvioulsy as he had ridden 80 miles on his push bike today, crazy dudes these guys I tell you


We said our goodbyes and hit the road again, I had considered just riding back onto the expressway for the next 70k's to Tequila but then thought nah that road looked good on Google maps so went the back way and im glad I did, it was a fun fun fun ride with hardly anyone on the road and winding up and down the valleys on the outskirts of Tequila.











We arrived in Tequila and of course headed straight for the centro, it's a very nice llittle town all colourful with its bright yellows and oranges etc it was really nice and not dusty like alot of the other towns we have been in, well ok the main drag and centro were clean we did find some dust and dirt not to far out the back streets later on.

We pulled up at the first hotel we saw and Ewa went in and asked how much it was only 35 bucks a night had parking was right in the centre of town so that was us, a really nice relaxing days ride and here we are in the town of Tequila. As we were making our way in I saw two other guys up the road on F800's and one heading back our way. The boys joined us in the hotel as they said they ahd checked a few and this was the pick of the bunch for price.

We unpacked and headed out for dinner with the boys they are heading to south America as well and are catching the strahlette boat or whatever it called on the 6th of December and had booked their trip in summer and it was booked out then so i might have to start thinking about making some sort of contact with Ludwig the captain soon, oh well it will work out im not to worried about it just yet, its nice only having a goal of being in Brazil by June to worry about. The funny thing with our slow and steady deadline is we meet so many people but they come and go in one or two days which always sucks.

We sat up and chatted for awhile we all have amazing adventures ahead of us, the boys had spent a good deal of time riding and staying across America and up into Alaska but like everyone we have come across more than suprised that just how nice and friendly Mexico and the Mexican people are, up there in the States all you hear is danger danger but it couldnt be further from the truth.



Approaching tequila we were surrounded by the tequila plants.






Arriving in Tequila.







Hard liquor town bringing back fond Polish childhood memories for Ewa.











Sitting down going through some maps, we better be going through maps we are sitting a tad close together if we aren't







The main drag of Tequila.







The tourist section on the highway at Tequila




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Old 11-14-2013, 08:39 PM   #1448
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We got up early today, the boy's hit the road before us so we said our goodbyes and were on the road ourselves not long after. I had Googled the 10 things to see in Guadalajara last night and one of them was the Guicciguicci pyraminds ok thats not what they are called but something along those lines, the round pyramids and their claim to fame is that they are the only round pyramids in Mexico. When I upload one of the photos it will have the real name on the sign then you will know. They were only 30 miles off our way to Guadalajara which was only down the road a litte bit so we headed off in search of them. Ewa said did you mark them on the Gps or phone, yeah of course I didnt I thought id just get us on the road out towards that way and their would be a sign like a pyramid somewhere, she just sighed and sat there quietly huffing and puffing like a billy goat gruff. Just when she was probably thinking oh my gawd hes getting us lost again there was the little blue sign, see I told you honey I reckon I know where I am all the time it just seems like im lost, ok to be honest I did take one wrong turn but it was only a little 10 k detour.

We pulled into the small little village and and I stopped and tried ask some old lady pyramids making the gesture of a pyramid with my arms and then swirling them around like a circle, 5 seconds of her shaking her head and me doing it again her eyes light up ahhhh si senore and points up the road then motions to the rifght ok that'll do me, cheers old lady.

We ride up through the town and out the other side it wasnt that big it only took is 5 minutes to get from one side to the other through a maze of one way back streets but there we were with a big sign pointing the way. It was quite warm so we pulled into the car park and i undressed into my board shorts and flip flops for the walk around. It really was very nice there were a few school kids around but they were all in the museum section down the bottom so when we walked up the top we basically had the whole ruin site to ourselves other than one other group of 4 people. We headed up to the top of an uncleared pyramid which I had seem some nice photos taken from on Google so here we were sitting down looking over the pyramind beneath us with Tequila volcano in the back gorund. The history here both natural and man made is quite fantastic the ruins being over 2000 years old and the volcano making them look like a baby.

We actually hung around there longer than we thought we just sat up on the old pyramid for about 30 minutes just soaking it all in, I wasnt even fussed to leave as I was enjoying myself but we did have to get to Guadalajara, we had marked a hotel on the map but it was a bit far out of the centro so we wanted to have a look around beofre it got late.



The next town at the turn off to the Guocomole pyramids, even the statues have a bottle to swig on around here.



















It only took us an hour to get into town from the pyramid so we went straight to the hotel we had marked and meh to far out of the centro for me so we decided to just ride down right into the centro and suss out any hotels down there. In the end we got right to the middle of town and there was a hotel called the Fenix was only 60 bucks a night 20 bucks more than the other one but what the hell its right on the main square and has parking so all good.



Across the road in traffic in Guadalajara as Ev walks up to the hotel.







Guadalajara centro







We parked unpacked and then went walking, I jokingly said to Ev I feel like McDonalds lets walk up here and get some, she said did you see one, of course i hadnt you always know in a city of any size there is going to be a McDonalds off the main square or near the main transport hub not to mention I can sniff one out from over 500 metres ha ha and yeah baby 5 minutes later there it was, she jsut giggled when we saw those little golden arches up the road.

A mac attack then more of a walk and that was us done for the night. Ev's in heaven here in Guadalajara, there is material shop after material shop it is actually quite weird, all the guys and girls sitting on stools in the open front fo the shop going through the books looking at different fabrics and laces, I'm guessing manufacturing plays a big part in this town somewhere there was just to many of them and I mean like 20 shops all surrounding the main centro.

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Old 11-17-2013, 02:46 PM   #1449
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Fantastic photos Sheldon, now I am REALLY homesick…
Enjoy!
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:14 PM   #1450
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looks like Copper Canyon is the place to go for a ride over there??

Excellent photos...some of the roads look fantastic
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:25 AM   #1451
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Fantastic photos Sheldon, now I am REALLY homesick…
Enjoy!
Hey Kiko what an amazing country you have here in Mexico, I can honestly say its up in the top few countries on my list now heading for number one at this rate. We are in a town called Acambaro right now with Mike the American guy who was leaving or maybe had left Stefans in Germany all those moons ago, im not sure if you met him but I rode through Kenya Ethiopia Sudan and Egypt with him..He was marrying a beautiful Mexican girl so we were at a traditional family wedding over the weekend, pics to come soon. Take care man thanks for dropping in.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:27 AM   #1452
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looks like Copper Canyon is the place to go for a ride over there??

Excellent photos...some of the roads look fantastic

The road from Creel to Paarl through the Copper Canyon went straight into my top three rides ive done, AMAZING.
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Old 11-18-2013, 02:16 AM   #1453
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Awesome report and trip mate,bet ya can't wait to come home !
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Old 11-18-2013, 02:02 PM   #1454
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Awesome report and trip mate,bet ya can't wait to come home !

Cheers Mudmonster I will come home one day.........I guess
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:16 PM   #1455
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Ben Craig and Kevin who we had met on the ferry from La Paz are in Guadalajara, they are staying in hostel up the road so we went over and saw them today, was good to catch up they were just hanging around, they had dropped their bikes over at the Bmw dealer to get new tyres before they head any further south. They had been given a taxi and were waiting but decided in the end to just go back and sit in the office and give them the little hurry up. Me and Ev hung around at the hostel, the Kiwis were playing the Mexicans in their world cup qualifyer so was good to watch that with the local lads. They were happy it ended in a 5-1 win to Mexico so even though there is one more game to play in New Zealand they should be off to the world cup next June.



Watching the world cup qualifier with a few of the lads.







While I watched the football with the boys Ev went for a walk back into town to look around at all the material shops, she just loves it and it's much better she does that sort of thing by herself rather than me in tow, id be over it in 5 mimutes. She came back all happy even though she hadnt bought anything she really does have a passion for sewing and making things and she is actually quite good at it, she has repaired quite a few of my things which would of been definately turfed out without her around.


Ev snapped a few of these on her way around the fabric shops it really is quite weird a lot of them open onto the street like a café and have seat along the bench, there is all men and women flicking through books of materials and lace, a tad gay for the boys isn't it, they must have just been dragged down there by their missus and do it to look interested, Im glad they were doing it cause I was watching the footy. The things some guys do to keep the peace in the house.











When she got back it was getting late so we decided to head back home and get something to eat. We walkwed back down into the centro and after dropping into the hotel for a few minutes headed out for dinner, you guessed it Chinese again nothing like varity, hey it was one of them smorgasboards and only 5 bucks, ok when we sat down and started eating you soon relaised why it was 5 bucks the food was crap but we got it down, whether it was to stay down is always a worry when you see the food like that.

After or dinner we went for a short walk around the centro, Ev loves the book fair that is going on in town, im not a reader why read a book when you can see the movie in two hours I reckon.

Ev really likes Guadalajara its caters for all her needs here, and she feels safe to which is nice so she can walk freely where ever she likes.
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