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Old 06-23-2011, 01:05 PM   #1
Lvl. 29 Adventurer OP
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Southern Oregon
Oddometer: 44
Rusty Gas Tank? EVAPO-RUST Review

Hello everybody!

After running across this site, I became addicted to the idea of a dual-sport and had to have one. I did research on all of the 600ish thumpers. When I saw a 1986 xt600 for $600, I bought it immediately. It had been stored in a barn for god knows how long. Because of this it's been a real pain to kick over. I've seen the You-Tube videos of little girls kicking them over and everyone telling me to trust "the Drill". I'm not a heavyweight at 6' and 165lbs, but I should be capable of kickstarting a thumper right?!?!

Well I
researched "the Drill", cleaned the carbs, I replaced the spark plug, installed a new battery, bridged the side-stand switch and still it wouldnt' start without a fight. Then I enlisted the help of my slightly heavier twin to help kick start the sucker. With two tired legs, sore feet (don't kickstart in sneakers) and an empty can of starter fluid we got it to run for 2 minutes... then it died.

The only thing left I haven't repaired/fixed is the gas tank and fuel lines. I drained the tank and the gas came out brown.

Awesome, I have a rust filled tank. The tank has so much rust in the bottom, that I can hear it rattling around after it was drained and dried. I was pissed, plastic Clarke tanks cost $200 for this bike.

I did some more research on rusty tank repair, removal and sealing. Turns out they have rust removing chemicals that people are pooping themselves over. One of these chemicals is EVAPO-RUST. I looked up the company and apparently they developed the stuff for removing rust on US tanks and gear. Cool, sounds promising. I found some at Auto Zone and $15 later I had two small 32oz jugs of the stuff.

I'm pretty skeptical, the stuff looks like Mt. Dew, but if it works I'll be the happiest kid in the world. ($200 is a lot of beer making ingredients)

I promptly poured in both of the 32oz bottles and shook it around, I even drained a little through the petcock lines to dissolve any rust in the tubes. Now for the waiting... I am giving it a good vigorous shaking every 30 minutes or so. Tomorrow morning I'll post more pictures and the results.

Lvl. 29 Adventurer screwed with this post 06-23-2011 at 04:23 PM
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:08 PM   #2
Be aware
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I've used OAKITE 32 from McMaster-Carr.
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:50 PM   #3
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Location: Black Hills/Arizona
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You'll have to clean the carbs again. Run a fine wire or better yet a oxy/act tip cleaner thru them, especially the pilot jet. I used to have to that to my ol XT 350 at least twice a year.
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Old 06-23-2011, 02:51 PM   #4
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Yerp... I'm probably going to pull the carb and go through it again this weekend. The gas that was in the bowl was only slightly less brown than the tank fuel. Oh well, it'll give me an excuse to go drink homemade apple cider in my shop and avoid the girlfriend for a few hours.

I love it when I do everything except the obvious and then it comes back to haunt me. Should have cleaned the tank when I first bought the bike. Well the good news is the stuff is already working pretty well. All of the visible surface rust is dissolving and can be wiped away with a finger... the heavier deposits are noticeably smaller but still there.

Oh, and I got bored and hit the tank with some black spraypaint. Ugly bikes are less likely to get stolen around here.

I'm starting to understand why people are so excited about these products.... already this has made a huge improvement.

Lvl. 29 Adventurer screwed with this post 06-23-2011 at 04:24 PM
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Old 06-24-2011, 09:40 AM   #5
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h0ly 70l3d0 b47m4n!1!! This stuff works phenomenally, I left it in there overnight and the inside is almost entirely free of rust! There are still a few pinhead sized spots remaining in the very bottom. I shook it around with some more nuts in it this morning and I imagine the last of the rust will be gone by the time I get home from work.

I can't recommend this stuff enough, they say you can "flash rust" your tank if you don't wash it out with water, dry it and then fill it with gas or hit it with a sealer. Kind of like when you sandblast something, it's just bare steel now.

Basically, if you need to de-rust you tank, this stuff is the bee's knees. It cost me less than a sealer kit which only covers the problem and might peel off and basically returned the tank to a state it hasn't been in in the last 15 years.

Sorry for the lack of pictures in this last report, it's almost impossible to photograph the interior of a xt600 tank due to a deep collar around the entrance.


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Old 06-24-2011, 04:53 PM   #6
Pat from Jersey
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what about / 2 tanks with that red coating?
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:15 AM   #7
Detroit Steve
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Red Kote is the stuff used in the old BMW steel tanks and it is usually pretty bullet proof. I believe it is still available.
My Stuff for sale:
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Old 07-06-2011, 10:52 AM   #8
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Yeah, if you already have a coated gas tank, you shouldn't need this as you shouldn't have rust. I don't know how to remove that stuff aside from maybe bead blasting?

I would highly recommend a plastic tank to anyone who can find a cheap one for their bike. Plastic tanks don't dent and stay dented in hard "get-offs" and of course, they don't rust. My bro has a KLR 650 with a huge aftermarket acerbis tank on it and that sucker is awesome. With all of the added benefits of the plastic, he also has like 6gal capacity, which is around 400 miles between fill-ups.

Even though I "fixed" the rust issue, I will be buying a plastic tank in the near future, just gotta find one on sale.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:39 PM   #9
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Awesome product.Thanks for the quicky write up.I'm gonna give this stuff a try.
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Old 07-27-2011, 06:40 AM   #10
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Location: North Mississippi
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Never used (evap o rust) stuff but have been using
white cider vinegar for many apps of rusty tanks.
Its slow(days to weeks) but if your in no hurry it works great
and its $1.99 a gallon

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Old 07-27-2011, 11:57 AM   #11
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Have tried Evapo rust ...comes in at ~$150 for a gallon here in Sweden ...crazy expensive when looking what it costs in the states.

And had trouble with some of it going down the drain for me since the tank started leaking once the rust was removed.

Super good product, but had some pin head size holes but the coating I used could handle sealing smaller holes and that worked out great!

Have changed name, was previously Dirty950 (under construction)
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Old 07-28-2011, 07:37 AM   #12
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Has anyone ever tired Wood Bleach( Oxalic Acit)? Found the tip on a BMX restoration site and tried it on numerous really well! If I used it in a tank, I would keep changing it out every few hours to cut down on the yellow deposits but other than that it works great as a rust remover.

Cost $7 for 12 ounces of powder, I mixed it roughly 1 oz per gallon.

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Old 07-28-2011, 07:54 PM   #13
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Virtually any acid will remove rust; oxalic, phosphoric, muriatic, sulfamic, citric, even vinegar.
Depending on strength (PH), rust may dissolve in a few minutes or several days.. And the
raw metal will then flash to surface rust, which can be prevented by washing the just-cleaned
tank out with a few spoons of baking soda in a couple of quarts of water....

The rust remover I've settled on is Acid Magic, a brand name of what's known as
"safe" Muriatic acid, sold now in most hardware stores and stores like Home Depot. It has
90% less fumes, and does not burn the skin..... It's sold under several names, but will say
"Safe Muriatic" on the label. I find most other acids are just too weak; too slow.

I've now cleaned/sealed over 200 motorcycle tanks, and have tried a number of products for
each step of the process. If rust is light, I may dilute the acid above 3 or 4-1. If it's heavily rusted,
I pore it in straight, using maybe a quart or so. Then roll the tank around from time to time to keep
acid on all surfaces, while watching removal so I can dump out the acid as soon as the rust is gone
so as not to harm the base metal of the tank.

The vital step, often omitted, is to first remove all traces of petrol with a strong detergent/hot water solution.
No acid can remove oil-based residue. Then, after the tank is totally dry (hair dryer), I coat the tank with
U.S. Tank Sealer, from the Por-15 folks.

The trash that's sold under the brand name "Kreem" has ruined many tanks. It has very poor adhesion
qualities, and is almost impossible to remove when it fails (when, not if...) MEK will remove it.
That's Methyl Ethyl Death; nasty stuff to deal with. Wishing to retain the few brain cells I still have, I've
stopped doing tanks that have Kreen Krap inside.....
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Old 08-27-2011, 05:56 PM   #14
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Old 08-27-2011, 08:00 PM   #15
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^ W T F izzat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A picture may be worth a thousand words, but that picture ain't worth spit!
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