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Old 08-15-2011, 06:02 PM   #121
Grok OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Krupa View Post
Grok, ordered it Friday, got here today (Monday). What took so long?

Kidding of course. fired up the bike and couldn't believe how easy it was to use to adjust. Much much more accurate and easy compared to my manometer.

One question. While off idle I got it to center easily (was only off 15 milibar to begin with so the manometer wasn't terrible) I notice at idle the centering line is way off to the right. Is that normal? If not, have any ideas on whats up?

Thanks for a great product and excellent service so far.
Technically a 1200GS should be within +/- 25mbar at idle when at full operating temperature.

How far off is it?
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Old 08-15-2011, 06:12 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grok View Post
Technically a 1200GS should be within +/- 25mbar at idle when at full operating temperature.

How far off is it?
Don't recall the exact number, but the bar was within 1/4 to 3/6 inch or so of right hand edge of display. When I gave it gas it pulled it in to the center. Seemed odd to me but figured I would rather have it out at idle than at speed. Not sure what it can be. Only have 20k miles on it. Just ran some sea foam through it to clean out fuel system. Runs fine.
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Old 08-15-2011, 06:43 PM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Krupa View Post
Don't recall the exact number, but the bar was within 1/4 to 3/6 inch or so of right hand edge of display. When I gave it gas it pulled it in to the center. Seemed odd to me but figured I would rather have it out at idle than at speed. Not sure what it can be. Only have 20k miles on it. Just ran some sea foam through it to clean out fuel system. Runs fine.
As you know the idle RPM and balance is controlled by the stepper motors.

The bike has separate O2 sensors and cylinder head temperature sensors for each cylinder. The ECU uses the steppers to warm up the bike (like an automatic choke), and compensate for altitude and temperature.

The ECU control algorithm to control the steppers isn't completely understood. It does use O2 sensor and cylinder head temp sensor information. There is some data to suggest the relative stepper positions change at idle, but the steppers move in lockstep with each other at higher RPM's.

If the valves are adjusted properly and the bike is running fine I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Especially if you connected and disconnected the Harmonizer while the bike was running. The temporary vacuum leak(s) could have caused an offset that the ECU will eventually correct.

Here's a link to an interesting thread regarding stepper parking and calibrating. It's still a bit of a controversial subject.

http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthread...=575279&page=1
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Old 08-15-2011, 06:57 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Krupa View Post
Grok, ordered it Friday, got here today (Monday). What took so long?

Kidding of course. fired up the bike and couldn't believe how easy it was to use to adjust. Much much more accurate and easy compared to my manometer.

One question. While off idle I got it to center easily (was only off 15 milibar to begin with so the manometer wasn't terrible) I notice at idle the centering line is way off to the right. Is that normal? If not, have any ideas on whats up?

Thanks for a great product and excellent service so far.
Sounds like you either have a vacuum leak, or one of your throttle cables has no slack in it.

Jim
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:03 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Krupa View Post
Don't recall the exact number, but the bar was within 1/4 to 3/6 inch or so of right hand edge of display. When I gave it gas it pulled it in to the center. Seemed odd to me but figured I would rather have it out at idle than at speed. Not sure what it can be. Only have 20k miles on it. Just ran some sea foam through it to clean out fuel system. Runs fine.
Here is an idea that may help.

With the engine off, open and then close the throttle quickly enough to hear the throttle body shaft cams hit their stops. You should hear one single click as both cylinders stop at the same time. If there are 2 separate clicks then one cylinder opens before the other. If you are comfortable with fussing with this, adjust the slack in the throttle cables so that 2 things happen.
1. both TB's open and close as one
AND
2. there is sufficient slack in both cables (BMW spec is 1-2 mm I THINK*) when the throttle is closed.

Doing this won't harm anything if it doesn't help, but it may reduce the idle offset vacuum difference.

(* I am pulling this number from memory and someone may chime in with verification of the REAL spec number)

JJ
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:26 PM   #126
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Quote:
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So I ran an On The Road Test ©®™ today while on the freeway.
The unit ran flawlessly and I only saw 3mbar maximum deviation no matter what speed or throttle setting I used.




JJ
Wow, you must have that old oilhead tweaked within an inch of its life!
Nice work!
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Old 08-15-2011, 07:50 PM   #127
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Once you get them 'used to' being that closely matched they tend to stay that way. I haven't touched the valves for over a year, and that was a very small adjustment made on the road at WestFest. And the TB's were last fussed with during the ßeta testing.

JJ
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Old 08-16-2011, 02:49 PM   #128
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Hi,
I want one too. PM Sent. Thanks, Ken
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:13 PM   #129
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I received mine today. My water manometer told me I was "close enough". The fluid levels pulsed enough that it was impossible to know if it was bang on or not. When I checked with the Harmonizer, it was borderline "smiley face". Now I have it zeroed at 4K rpm, very easy to do with this tool. I have a some miles to put on tomorrow (my bike is a service vehicle weather permitting!) and I am looking forward to seeing if I can tell the difference.

Like another poster, at idle, the indicator swings right quite a ways. I noticed this with my manometer as well.

Nice widget!
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:29 AM   #130
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I just received mine this morning, thanks for the fast shipping. I`ll probably try it out this weekend.
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Old 08-17-2011, 10:56 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
Sounds like you either have a vacuum leak, or one of your throttle cables has no slack in it.

Jim

JVB,

I ran a quick check again last night and to answer Grok's question, its registering +30 - 40. Only places I can think of a vacuum leak would be on the vacuum tube itself, the intake manifold and perhaps the rubber o-ring on the fuel injector. Didn't have time to check all three but the manifold looks to be in very good shape but can't see the back side.

As Johnjen suggested, checked to see if the slides are hitting together and they seem to be. I need to go back and look at it but there may not be 1-2mm of slack in either cable. Didn's spend much time on this but that might be the case. Will look at it tonight again.
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:00 AM   #132
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Got mine today.

Fantastic piece of kit! Much Impressed
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:55 PM   #133
Davis53
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I have a 2009 R1200GSA, to do a sync is this correct?

Warm engine.
Connect sync device.
Remove the plugs for the steppers motors.
Start engine.
Sync engine at speed above idle, 2000 rpm, 2500 rpm, etc. with the cable on the right throttle body.
Shutdown engine, remove sync device, connect stepper plugs.

The steppers set idle speed and idle sync.

Is this procedure correct?
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Old 08-18-2011, 03:58 AM   #134
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Ordered mine today ,thanks.
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Old 08-18-2011, 06:29 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry Krupa View Post
JVB,

I ran a quick check again last night and to answer Grok's question, its registering +30 - 40. Only places I can think of a vacuum leak would be on the vacuum tube itself, the intake manifold and perhaps the rubber o-ring on the fuel injector. Didn't have time to check all three but the manifold looks to be in very good shape but can't see the back side.

As Johnjen suggested, checked to see if the slides are hitting together and they seem to be. I need to go back and look at it but there may not be 1-2mm of slack in either cable. Didn's spend much time on this but that might be the case. Will look at it tonight again.
A fast way to check for localized leaks is to hit the spot with some starter fluid. If the RPMs change, then you found it.

Jim
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