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Old 02-01-2012, 08:15 PM   #46
motormail OP
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20% stronger rear spring and shock service, what a difference. More here.

Robo

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Old 02-01-2012, 09:29 PM   #47
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Tried out the hammock today. More here

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Old 02-01-2012, 09:46 PM   #48
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Took my adventurised DT230 out for a quick spin today, fully loaded, pictures here

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Old 02-01-2012, 10:37 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motormail View Post
Took my adventurised DT230 out for a quick spin today, fully loaded, pictures here

Robo

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Old 02-02-2012, 03:11 AM   #50
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Nice work Robo, everything looks great ! How did the shock go?
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:57 AM   #51
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Hey mate, shock turned out better that I could have imagined. Will play with settings on different tracks, but plan to have it mainly set for dirt roads. Can't wait to go for a fang and see two DT230's in the one place. Will have to remember to bring the camera.

Robo
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Old 02-04-2012, 01:15 AM   #52
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Ride report here of a couple of DT230's not far from from the Gold Coast

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Old 02-07-2012, 01:52 AM   #53
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Robin from Safari Tanks Australia is having a gander to see if he can mod an adventure 26 Litre Yamaha WR450 tank to fit the DT230. Not sure how many litres it would hold or how much it would cost, but it would be great to get some sort of idea from persons around the globe that may be interested in such a tank for the DT230. If you are interested please reply to this thread so I can let Robin know I'm not the only DT230 freak. I think he thinks me to be a bit of a loon, until I told him the DT230 specs...then he was just plain impressed.

Robo


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Old 02-07-2012, 02:32 AM   #54
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Awesome

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Old 02-16-2012, 08:16 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motormail View Post
Robin from Safari Tanks Australia is having a gander to see if he can mod an adventure 26 Litre Yamaha WR450 tank to fit the DT230. Not sure how many litres it would hold or how much it would cost, but it would be great to get some sort of idea from persons around the globe that may be interested in such a tank for the DT230. If you are interested please reply to this thread so I can let Robin know I'm not the only DT230 freak. I think he thinks me to be a bit of a loon, until I told him the DT230 specs...then he was just plain impressed.

Robo
I am in if you come up with a good tank solution (located in Sydney).

Hope to post pics after this weekend of my efforts to fit the kick starter off a DT200. Almost done - fits perfectly. Good mod for hard core adventuring, I think.
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:03 AM   #56
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What's up with the parts book?

Hi,

I'm getting grief with the DT230 parts manual (at the top of this forum) - Acrobat does not like it one bit. Is it working OK for everybody else?

Trying to find the number of the thingy that takes the kick starter shaft through the case - must be some kind of bush, sleeve bearing, whatever?
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:18 AM   #57
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Hey mate, I just tried the link again and it worked fine. If you send me a PM I can email it directly to you.

Robo
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:48 PM   #58
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Yes, A Safari tank they must make, don't own a DT but will consider on now, you are a good salesman
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Old 02-17-2012, 10:41 PM   #59
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If anyone is interested, needs to know, whatever, Tiaro motorcycle wreckers have a DT230 to wreck or project bike. Barrell/ Bore is totally U/S. From memory most looks OK. Not sure how many are out there getting wrecked but if you needed parts Ross is good to deal with. No affilliation with him. Just dropped in for a look and saw it.
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Old 03-04-2012, 12:44 AM   #60
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DT230: how to install a kick starter

In most locations, the DT230 was sold as electric start only. However, the kick start system from a DT200 can be readily fitted. This post explains how I did it.

Parts needed
* DT200 Kick start assembly. They are readily available online and at wreckers. Often they are not supplied with the kick start arm, which will have to be obtained separately. IMPORTANT: make sure you get the idler wheel. It is not already fitted on on the DT230.
* Lock washer (for clutch basket), p/n 9021512271
* Oil seal 20X30X4.5 (to replace the blanking cap over the kicker starter hole in the crank case), p/n 9310220309 from DT200 (see photo 1)
* Gasket for crank case cover p/n 4TP1546100
* Clutch holding tool or a rattle gun. CAUTION: you will break the clutch basket unless you use one of these. The basket is very expensive! (see photo 2 for the special tool).

Disassembly
1. Remove exhaust, brake pedal, rear brake cylinder protector.
2. Darin coolant and gearbox oil.
3. Disconnect coolant tube where it meets the crankcase. You will also need to undo brackets on the coolant tub as it is a very right fit and cannot easily be pulled out of the way of the crankcase cover.
3. Disconnect clutch cable where it connects with the spindle/lever (just above the crankcase).
4. Pull the clutch pull shaft all the way out (it is locked by a screw, make sure you remove that first).
5. Remove the oil pump cover and disconnect the throttle-servo cable (the one that wraps around a pulley).
6. Remove the crankcase cover, taking note of where each bolt comes from (they are not all the same size).
7. Carefully remove the kickstart blanking plate in the crankcase cover (you might need to refit it if this process doesn't work out).
8. Make sure the kicker shaft really fits through the crankcase hole. If not, now is a good time to find out.
9. Remove the clutch cover and clutch plates. Keep everything in order so it goes back in the same way.
10. Remove the lock washer from the 22 mm clutch nut.
11. Using the special clutch holder (or a rattle gun), remove the clutch nut and lift the clutch basket out. (Seriously bro, do it! The basket is incredibly brittle and will break if you try to use other tools).

All preceding steps are needed to free-up the crankcase cover, because it is a b1tch to get it back on; you likely will never get it with cables hanging off it.

Installation
1. Fit the idler wheel, with washer and split ring (see photo 3)
2. Refit the clutch, using a new lock washer. Make sure the teeth on the back of the pack cover engage properly with the basket. It will go on quite happily without engaging, but the plates will always be loose.
3. Put the kick start shaft and assembly into place. This is dead easy.
4. Push the kick start shaft spring around until it seats into the hole in the crankcase mating surface (see photo 4). CAUTION: push the spring into the hole firmly and keep doing this every 5.8 seconds during refitting of the cover, otherwise the spring will pop out and rip the new gasket as it unwinds.
5. There are two dowels that locate the crankcase cover. Make sure both are in the crankcase, not the cover. This makes is way easier to hold the new gasket in position.
6. Fit the oil seal in the kicker hole of the crankcase cover.


Assembly
1. Put the new gasket in place (also refer to step 4 of Installation).
2. Make sure the pinion shaft that comes out of the clutch has the teeth facing towards the rear of the bike. Study this part. Become one with it. It will be the bane of your existence for the next 1/2 day.
3. Square up the crankcase cover and slowly, slowly ease it onto the kicker shaft.
4. Make sure the cover is still lined up with the two dowels. However, the pinion shaft will engage before the dowels.
5. By a combination of jiggling, pushing, cursing and Jedi arts, get the pinion shaft into its designated hole. Shine a light down the pullshaft hole to check if the teeth of the pinion are visible. If not either (a) it's not in the hole, or (b) the teeth are facing the wrong way.
6. If step 5 does not succeed, push the kicker shaft in hard with your thumb as you gently remove the crankcases cover (refer to step 4 of installation). Realign the pinion and try again (ad nauseum).
7. When the cover is properly located and the pinion teeth can be clearly seen in the pullshaft hole, insert the pullshaft.
8. Insert some screws in the crankcase cover to temporarily hold it in place.
9. Check that the pullshaft can be rotated through about 60 degrees with strong spring resistance. If not, the clutch face probably has not engage properly with the basket (see step 2 of installation).
10. Fit the kick start arm and (with the ignition OFF) gently make sure it moves through about 90 degrees of arc, and turns the crankshaft.
10. Put all the other sh1t back on, put some oil and coolant in the sucker (see photo 5). NOTE: the rear brake cylinder cover plate cannot be used. It fouls the kicker arm and would need to be trimmed down to be compatible.
11. Start the DT230 by using the kick starter :)
12. Joyous celebration, etc...

Photos
Photo 1 Oil seal from DT200


Photo 2 Special tool for holding the clutch


Photo 3 showing idler wheel in place, left of the clutch shaft.


Photo 4 kicker shaft in place. Note location of spring


Photo 5 all done! (except stop switch spring in this photo)





spacekadet screwed with this post 03-04-2012 at 01:20 AM Reason: add pictures
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