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Old 06-04-2012, 06:09 AM   #91
drchupachup
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Cheap OEM Parts - boats.net

Thought i'd share this one.

I got a quote for some parts from JP Parts. Thought some bits were a bit steep so had a look around on the net.

I ended up finding www.boats.net. Price for my order was 40% cheaper than JP Parts.

Part number Qty JP (AUD) Boats.net (USD)
REAR WHEEL BEARING 93306-00416 3 $16.12 $12.09
REAR WHEEL BEARING SEALS 93106-28023 2 $5.24 $4.35
REAR WHEEL BEARING DUST COVER 4V4-25376-00 - $7.20
FRONT WHEEL BEARING 3306-20212 2 $15.47 $12.74
FRONT WHEEL BEARING SEAL 93106-20021 1 $4.59 $4.37
FRONT WHEEL BEARING SEAL 93106-22032 1 $5.37 $3.99
FORK OIL SEAL 3BN-23145-00 2 $22.16 -
FORK DUST SEAL 43F-23144-10 2 $15.60 $9.43
STEERING HEAD BEARING 93332-00008 1 $61.48 $28.18
STEERING HEAD BEARING 93399-99931 1 $37.62 $25.85
SHOCK BUSH 1YW-22216-00 1 $25.43 $16.08
SHOCK BEARING 93399-999T3 1 $72.10 $25.85
SHOCK CIRCLIP 93440-30113 2 $1.70 $0.48
SHOCK SEAL 93104-18077 2 $5.64 $4.47
SWING ARM BEARING 93315-22251 2 $24.12 $16.08
SWING ARM SEAL 93106-22019 2 $5.77 $3.99
SWING ARM SEAL 93108-35004 2 $6.95 $5.13
LINKAGE BEARING 93315-32052 2 $23.73 $10.61
LINKAGE OIL SEALS 93109-20076 6 $1.84 $4.47
LINKAGE BUSH 90386-20120 4 $13.50 $7.13

Sub total $572.76 $350.19
Shipping $49.82 $67.88
Grand Total $622.57 $418.27

I still don't know the shipping cost. The website says that they will email email me to update the status of the order. One of these updates will give me a shipping cost, then i get 48 hrs to cancel the order without a fee.

Edit: Shipping cost came out at $67.88

Will let you know how it goes.

PS. I tried to space out the columns on the table but can't make it work. You can work it out pretty easy.


Luke

drchupachup screwed with this post 06-04-2012 at 03:39 PM
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:45 PM   #92
motormail OP
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Good find.
Thanks Luke.
Will post the link on the front page of the thread.
40% is a hell of a difference.
Will go there from now on.

Robo
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:12 PM   #93
drchupachup
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Originally Posted by motormail View Post
Good find.
Thanks Luke.
Will post the link on the front page of the thread.
40% is a hell of a difference.
Will go there from now on.

Robo
No worries.

Same deal as with JP Parts though, you need to know the part numbers. Enter the numbers in the search field at the top and away you go. Don't think searching for DT230 works.


Luke
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Old 06-17-2012, 05:14 PM   #94
drchupachup
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Popped it

Sorry i just posted this in the thumpers thread, but meant to put it here..:

Yesterday afternoon i blew up the DT on the freeway north of Sydney.

Something let go at 130kph and the rear wheel locked up, i pulled in the clutch and managed to pull over before i realised what was going on.

It now feels like the starter motor is permanently engaged as there is resistance to turning over the engine by hand which is accompanied by a whine. Before it blew I noticed an intermittent whine for about 15mins. It didn’t run out of oil and estimates by comparing oil and fuel consumption it was running at about 30:1 post-mix. The engine still turns with resistance but can’t get the neutral light to come on.

I was thinking:
  • Could be starter faulty and permanently engaged somehow;
  • Could be big end or main bearing;
  • Could be gearbox bearing;
  • Could be neutral switch (or neutral switch screw) fallen out and lunched somewhere;
  • Could be melted piston binding in the sleeve due to overheating (unlikely).

I haven't checked but may have non standard gearing. Will check tonight and see if i can work out whatrpm it was
doing at 130kph and whether that is approaching redline.


Do you think i was probably pushing it with extended riding on the freeway? I would have thout that a DT would be fine with it.
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Old 06-18-2012, 06:51 PM   #95
Harvey Krumpet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drchupachup View Post
Sorry i just posted this in the thumpers thread, but meant to put it here..:

Yesterday afternoon i blew up the DT on the freeway north of Sydney.

Something let go at 130kph and the rear wheel locked up, i pulled in the clutch and managed to pull over before i realised what was going on.

It now feels like the starter motor is permanently engaged as there is resistance to turning over the engine by hand which is accompanied by a whine. Before it blew I noticed an intermittent whine for about 15mins. It didn’t run out of oil and estimates by comparing oil and fuel consumption it was running at about 30:1 post-mix. The engine still turns with resistance but can’t get the neutral light to come on.

I was thinking:
  • Could be starter faulty and permanently engaged somehow;
  • Could be big end or main bearing;
  • Could be gearbox bearing;
  • Could be neutral switch (or neutral switch screw) fallen out and lunched somewhere;
  • Could be melted piston binding in the sleeve due to overheating (unlikely).

I haven't checked but may have non standard gearing. Will check tonight and see if i can work out whatrpm it was
doing at 130kph and whether that is approaching redline.


Do you think i was probably pushing it with extended riding on the freeway? I would have thout that a DT would be fine with it.
Oh, ouch. We were talking about big road riding last night & the consequences... I was thinking of checking piston & rings before we start doing big miles with a constant throttle, these bikes are not getting any younger.
Start with the starter, it's held on with two bolts & pulls straight out. You can whip the fly wheel cover off in two minutes as well, it's dry in there.
Hope it's not a major...
I think mine is running slightly lower gearing 43 or 44 rear, 15 front IIR. The aftermarket tacho has it at 6400 ish at 120kmh in top, I have seen 8000rpm on there but that was 3rd & 4th on gravel & I was not looking at the speedo.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:05 PM   #96
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Except that you are not running premix I'd have thought it had nipped up when you backed off the throttle - no fuel/oil mix goes in to combustion chamber but piston keeps pumping at 130km/h then siezes up. I've seen it happen with a KTM300. BUT, you're not running premix so this is unlikely (but not impossible). Sorry, not very helpful! Might be worth whipping the head off to check though.
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Old 06-18-2012, 08:19 PM   #97
drchupachup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECKS-Man View Post
Except that you are not running premix I'd have thought it had nipped up when you backed off the throttle - no fuel/oil mix goes in to combustion chamber but piston keeps pumping at 130km/h then siezes up. I've seen it happen with a KTM300. BUT, you're not running premix so this is unlikely (but not impossible). Sorry, not very helpful! Might be worth whipping the head off to check though.
Definately something to think about. I was on the throttle when it went so shouldn't be what happened in my case. Oil pump failure could have been the issue.

A friend from Yamaha has told me that damage at high speed is possible if there is a vacuum leak (e.g reed valve gasket or crank seals).

Hoping to get the motor out this weekend and have a look. Will take some pics when i do and post them up.


Luke
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Old 06-18-2012, 10:38 PM   #98
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Bottom End Not Interchangable

I have read on some forum that the DT230N bottom end may be interchangable with the DT125/175/200.

I emailed my friend from Yamaha to check if this was the case. I have confirmed that the crankcases are not interchangable.

He has given me a list of mainly transmission parts and bearings that are interchangable between the DT230N (2001) and the DT200RH (1996) that are interchangable, however this will probably not help me much. If anyone wants this list let me know.

Based on what I have told him about my bike he thinks its a top end issue. I hope he is right.


Luke
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Old 06-19-2012, 05:50 PM   #99
Harvey Krumpet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drchupachup View Post
I have read on some forum that the DT230N bottom end may be interchangable with the DT125/175/200.

I emailed my friend from Yamaha to check if this was the case. I have confirmed that the crankcases are not interchangable.

He has given me a list of mainly transmission parts and bearings that are interchangable between the DT230N (2001) and the DT200RH (1996) that are interchangable, however this will probably not help me much. If anyone wants this list let me know.

Based on what I have told him about my bike he thinks its a top end issue. I hope he is right.


Luke
I would be interested, I know were their is a pretty abused, seized DT200 sitting forlornly. Might even get it for beer money. A third set of rims (motard!!!) would be nice.
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Old 06-19-2012, 11:16 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvey Krumpet View Post
I would be interested, I know were their is a pretty abused, seized DT200 sitting forlornly. Might even get it for beer money. A third set of rims (motard!!!) would be nice.
I thought the DT230 engine was more WR200 than DT200 ??
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:03 PM   #101
Harvey Krumpet
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Originally Posted by XF650 View Post
I thought the DT230 engine was more WR200 than DT200 ??
Well slap me with a frozen haddock. I did not even know they existed. Hmmmm, a bit of (more) research coming up.

Thanks for that nugget!
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:10 PM   #102
drchupachup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvey Krumpet View Post
I would be interested, I know were their is a pretty abused, seized DT200 sitting forlornly. Might even get it for beer money. A third set of rims (motard!!!) would be nice.
PM me your email Harvey and i'll forward it on to you.

It's a bit too much to post on here, and the lack of ability to format text would make it illegible.
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Old 06-20-2012, 03:12 PM   #103
drchupachup
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Originally Posted by XF650 View Post
I thought the DT230 engine was more WR200 than DT200 ??
Cheers for that XF. I'll look into it also.
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Old 06-20-2012, 04:29 PM   #104
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Re the compatability of parts between DT200, WR200 & DT230. I used to have a link to this info but will now have to rely on my fuddled memory.

The DT230 is a dual purpose frame with an engine based on the WR200 (enduro). Top end is obviously a little different for the extra capacity but bottom end is same except the electric start.
The 230 is designed for road and off road use so constant speed isn't an issue. Mine has done over 22,000km's incl some big road trips and the motor hasn't been touched.

Although the DT200 was a previous generation, some models had alloy swing arm & USD forks. We tried but these parts don't easily fit as a 230 suspension upgrade. However the DT200 wheels can fit the 230.

I think the best option is to compare the DT230 with the WR200 but you will still probably have to experiment with parts compatibility. Murphy's Law the same parts will have different part #'s between models.
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Old 06-20-2012, 06:15 PM   #105
drchupachup
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A friend just asked me to compare the bore and stroke dimensions of the DT230 and the WR200 as a guide as to whether the WR200 bottom end would be a bolt on replacement.

DT175 66 x 50mm
DT200 66 x 57mm
WR200 66.8 x 57mm
DT230 66.8 x 64mm

This would indicate that the big end offset is different and that the crankshaft would not be the same. While the rest of the contents of the crankcase could be very similar it would not be a bolt on replacement.

Or i just don't know what i'm talking about. Maybe i should just open it up and learn.
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