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Old 03-09-2005, 08:23 AM   #16
Wirespokes
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Thanks for the detailed description of the job! I can see how that would fix it.

A riding buddy of mine wrecked his 1977 RS (with wire wheels) last thanksgiving hitting some black ice, bending both rims. If he sent you pictures of the wheels would you be able to tell if you could straighten them?
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Old 10-19-2010, 04:44 PM   #17
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suggestions for the ''beat 'em silly 'til the finish fails'' tire changers...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steverino
Woody The Wheel Dude,

I tend to be pretty hard on my wheel espcially when I am changing tires. I firmly believe in the "bigger hammer/longer bar" mentality whey it comes to changing them. The anodized Adventure wheels have not help up very well to my abuse. DO you think powder coating will result in a more durable mongo resistant finish?

Steve
steverino and your kindred rim beater uppers...

1,,forget the regular powder-coating techniques,,,they will chip under the kind of treatment you are handing out

there are certain vinyl powder -coating products that seem to take an incredible beating,,,we'd doctor your old rim up,,,media blast it and there's only primary colors available though,,,FYI ,,BWOE if we did it on achrome wheel ,it would look like a candy apple finish,,,bead-blast it and it has satin finish

2,,hard anodizing is more expensive and has limited colors available could help but i don't think it would hold up to your talents,,,,

3,,a product that works pretty good are the nylon 'rim protectors ,,,,,these are 6 '' arced preformed to your rim-lip you install a few of these where you are going to place your tire irons..works pretty good

4,,and a tire changing course from Neduro might help too,,,although he's usually more concerned with quick /efficient tire changing tricks,,,knowing just where to place the irons and where to push down on the tire makes a mongo difference between working up a rage and sweat or having an easy time of it

5,, bringing em to a tire shop with Touch-less technology is another albeit more expensive answer

6,,maybe 'counseling ' is in order steverino,,,just kiddingya can tell i'm reaching at this juncture....it's been a looong day at the shop.

woody
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Old 10-19-2010, 04:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wirespokes
Thanks for the detailed description of the job! I can see how that would fix it.

A riding buddy of mine wrecked his 1977 RS (with wire wheels) last thanksgiving hitting some black ice, bending both rims. If he sent you pictures of the wheels would you be able to tell if you could straighten them?
yes,,and if not we have everything to make em as good if not better than new..
woody
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Old 03-08-2015, 08:14 PM   #19
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UPDATE on final specs achieved in recent time BMW X-laced wheel repair

thought you'd like to know...

Wink what's involved in straightening
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvrla
Thanks Woody! I appreciate your sharing your knowledge with us.

Could you tell us how you go about straightening one of these rims once it's unlaced?

I spent a major amount of time one week (about 40 hours) trying to true a front R100GS wheel. I got it much better than it was originally, but still not good enough for me. What tended to happen (once I'd figured out how to tighten the spokes down - I tore it down and started over many times) was that it was absolutely true until the last tightening, and then it would wow out.

Evidently the rim was slightly bent. Now, Ricardo says that you can adjust that by adjusting the spokes - but totally opposite to the way you true a normal wheel. Do you disagree with that?
sooo...you'd like to know how i straighten these rims,,,hmmmmmnnnn...OK

1..i spin the wheel and mark the hi and lo spots with my sharpie,,,,as well as the lateral hi/lo spots

2..i check to see if there are any loose /broken spokes that may be contributing to this condition...

3..i loosen all the spokes and see if the rim straightens out or if it has a definite bend or wave/wobble in it

4..if it 's bent ,,,i remove it and place it on my surface plate and confirm where it wobbles with the marks i made the at the time i spun it,,,,

5..then it's either onto my press or one of several jigs i've built over the years to push/pull it back in place,,numerous trips back and forth til that sucker lies absolutely flat on the table and the diameter is within .5mm/.020"

6..reassemble and center it laterally and then longtitudinally..then tighten and torque them to 5Nm/85in/lb,,,followed by inserting grub/set screws and tightening them to 1Nm/7in/lb....shooting for less than 1mm /.040"run-out ie:+/-.020'' in all directions

FYI<<<,those specs were my standard 10 years ago,,,in recent years, I have perfected my techniques and shoot for 1/2 of my old standard In recent time we routinely get our final run-out to be closer to +/- .010'' or >020 '' /.5mm TOTAL run-out....This was achieved by scrutinizing /checking the rims more carefully on our surface plate,,,We assumed brand new OEm replacement rims were straight,,,got snookered by the ASS-U-ME syndrom....Now we KNOW better...''measure twice/cut once!!!

7.. that's essentially all there is to it!!!

ps..once again...if you value your sanity,,,i'll say it again,,,,starting out with anything less than a true rim,,,is a descent into the hell you have been experiencing,,,if you all visualize the importance of EACH SPOKE PERFORMING THE SAME AMOUNT OF WORK,,,,imagine what goes on when you try to straighten the rim from where it is bent,,,ya gotta add MORE torque,,,and then even more torque to move it a little more in that direction,,,and before ya know it...ya have a wheel that has a few spokes doing more work than they were designed to do and others just loafing off,,,,,and ya apply pressure to the wheel and ,,,,the spokes want to even the load out,,,and the only way they'll do that is by relaxing here and there and ya have a wobbly wheel again...whoooops
Last edited by woody's wheel works; Today at 09:11 PM. Reason: add a notion
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Old 03-09-2015, 12:26 AM   #20
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Hey there, Woody. Here's what I take away from your report. Feel free to use any or all of it in any other place. If it suits you, I mean. No byline needed.


A trued wheel, as a complete assembly, has every spoke doing the same amount of work.

The condition of 'each spoke doing an equal amount of work' can only be achieved when starting with a true rim before spokes are added.

If the rim is not true without spokes, it will also not be true with spokes.

But it is possible to tighten some spokes more than others to force an untrue rim into a shape that fairly well approaches true.

However the condition is temporary. The resulting unequally-tightened wheel will not remain true for long. Using unequal tightening of the spokes to reshape an untrue rim will not last.


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Old 03-09-2015, 10:58 AM   #21
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a little clarification...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poolside View Post
Hey there, Woody. Here's what I take away from your report. Feel free to use any or all of it in any other place. If it suits you, I mean. No byline needed.


A trued wheel, as a complete assembly, has every spoke doing the same amount of work.optimally

The condition of 'each spoke doing an equal amount of work' can only be achieved when starting with a true rim before spokes are added.that says it nicely

If the rim is not true without spokes, it will also not be true with spokes. That depends,,,when we are talking about X-laced wheels,,,i have'nt found any technique to give you a true wheel and have all the spokes doing the same amount of work,,,on standard wheels i can fudge a little,,see your next asertion

But it is possible to tighten some spokes more than others to force an untrue rim into a shape that fairly well approaches true. on standard wheels this is possible ,,overtightening a few loosening up a few

However the condition is temporary. The resulting unequally-tightened wheel will not remain true for long. Using unequal tightening of the spokes to reshape an untrue rim will not last. ya got that right,,,,because the overtightened ones will eventually sag and consequently the rim will start warping out of shape again

thanks for helping me explain it better,,you are on the right track though!!
holler if i can clarify better...

woody
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