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Old 05-16-2012, 03:30 PM   #451
C5! OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardbern View Post
Please!
Everybody who has experienced this failure needs to log a complaint with the NHTSA as has been suggested here by wiser people (thank you by the way!).
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/Vehicl...nt/index.xhtml

don't wait, do it now. They cannot rely on forum complaints to initiate investigations.
and if you have stalled while in traffic because your battery was completely drained and your alternator toasted, SAY SO!

please.
Your Complaint Information has been successfully submitted.

Your Confirmation Number (ODI Number) is: 10458740.
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Old 05-16-2012, 06:46 PM   #452
WayneC1
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JRWooden

BMW use AMP, Kostal & one or two others for plugs/sockets, Wurth supply a lot of them to the dealer network, in addition on the online fiche under various plugs & sockets you may find they are available (at BMW pricing of course)

If you can look at the plug & socket & locate all numbers from them & post them here I could look up some catalogues I have access to. You should find 2 sets of numbers. A BMW No & a manufacturer No, plus possibly a logo

Re the NHTSA complaints, people should post the ODI Number so that each subsequent creport can refer to the previous one's lodged. With the F650 single we found key entry mistakes at NHTSA could hide reports under other models & with the confusion BMW created with the "F" designation that is likely to occur with your reports
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:32 PM   #453
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Thanks Wayne!

I am on the road for a while, but when I get home I'll disassemble harness and capture the numbers.
THANKS for your help!
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Old 06-02-2012, 03:38 PM   #454
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Sorry if it has been answered elsewhere, but there are now more than one threads open:

Is there any, just any kind of official response from bmw regarding the alternator/stator issue?

I am planning a long trip and want to proactively deal with this issue.

Replacing the part with one of the newer batches (if any) solves the problem?

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:00 PM   #455
JoelWisman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kokni View Post
Sorry if it has been answered elsewhere, but there are now more than one threads open:

Is there any, just any kind of official response from bmw regarding the alternator/stator issue?

I am planning a long trip and want to proactively deal with this issue.

Replacing the part with one of the newer batches (if any) solves the problem?

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2
BMW does not officially respond to forums or customer inquires, EVER.

Occasionaly they post a service buliten for internal franchise staff, and quite often, in cooperation with the NHTSA, they issue recalls.

Neither of the above has occurred to date, and personally I don't expect either to occur in regards to this issue.

The new flywheel looks like it will improve stator longevety but it will be years before we know for sure.
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:48 AM   #456
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I may have posted this to a different thread, or not posted it at all .... sorry I've been on the road and out of the loop...

But as a status update, ElectroSport has prototype stator assemblies on order and they will be testing their proposed design on arrival ... availability is not known yet since a design iteration may be required.

I asked about the design point and got this reply ... which sounds like it could be good news for use:

"The insulation should be good up to about 350 degrees, which might sound a bit low for the BMW. But we are hoping that a different winding configuration plus a much higher quality copper wire with lower internal resistance will allow our stator to operate well below 350."

For the record, I have no affiliation with ElectroSport other than that of a potential customer ...
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Old 06-04-2012, 06:48 PM   #457
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Great news! Thanks for keeping us posted. I hope we can get a durable aftermarket solution soon!
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:08 AM   #458
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Since I'm lazy (and my rudimentary half assed search didn't provide results), what is the failure mode? Its it a more binary "it doesn't work now", or do they die an analog death? I'm having starting problems at ~30k and with the bike running I'm getting around 12.5-12.6 across the battery leads.

bxr140 screwed with this post 06-06-2012 at 11:15 AM
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:15 AM   #459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxr140 View Post
Since I'm lazy (and my rudimentary half assed search) didn't provide results, what is the failure mode? Its it a more binary "it doesn't work now", or do they die an analog death? I'm having starting problems at ~30k and with the bike running I'm getting around 12.5-12.6 across the battery leads.
Analog death..... melted insulation...partial/full short of one or all phases.....
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Old 06-13-2012, 12:25 PM   #460
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
JRWooden

BMW use AMP, Kostal & one or two others for plugs/sockets, Wurth supply a lot of them to the dealer network, in addition on the online fiche under various plugs & sockets you may find they are available (at BMW pricing of course)

If you can look at the plug & socket & locate all numbers from them & post them here I could look up some catalogues I have access to. You should find 2 sets of numbers. A BMW No & a manufacturer No, plus possibly a logo

Re the NHTSA complaints, people should post the ODI Number so that each subsequent creport can refer to the previous one's lodged. With the F650 single we found key entry mistakes at NHTSA could hide reports under other models & with the confusion BMW created with the "F" designation that is likely to occur with your reports
Wayne:

Thanks --- I am finally back from my trip .......... they all seem to run over........

The MALE 3-prong plug shows the following:

1-962658-1
PA66
Tyco 1-963470-1
BMW 8 352 337


The FEMALE 3-prong plug shows the following:

AMP 1-828817-1
PA66
BMW 1 378 114


I should have written it down, but I think it was the female side that had a little molded clip on one side to secure it to a metal mounting bracket, this would not be required ... as we do have zip ties and there might be a "generic" equal that did not have the mounting boss/clip?

The plugs are not sealed against moisture like some of the connectors on the bike but I guess BMW figure that since this was a "power connector" it didn't need to be sealed against the elements. I could not help myself and put a dab of dielectric grease on each prong for "insurance"

http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...-Up_Grease.htm
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:29 PM   #461
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What a pain of a pair of parts, drew a blank on the Wurth catalogue & not in Misc Sockets F650 (Single)/F800 Fiche

Tyco list the male 1-963470-1 as "restricted" This usually means built specifically for OEM
The BMW part No comes up as invalid, any chance of a typo on that ?

The female AMP 1-828817-1, PA66, BMW 1 378 114 comes up ok & there are stockists but $200 min order
Tyco/AMP description is 3P BU-GEH KOMPL Automotive
Tyco Part No 1-828818-1 (18288181) may be the same - Tyco description is 3P STIFT-GEH KOMPL Automotive
It is full BMW Part No 61 131 378 114 (body only) & used on many older model BMW cars. RealOEM search is

http://realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=61+131+378+114

The car spares boys should be able to ID pins and the male side using the part No for the female (if they are good)

It may also be under another part No 61138352304 $16.65 fitted to G650 (very uncertain on this)

Not a good answer so far, will take a look at another source later. Really would like a Part No/Source for my own machine

WayneC1 screwed with this post 06-13-2012 at 11:39 PM
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:32 AM   #462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
What a pain of a pair of parts, drew a blank on the Wurth catalogue & not in Misc Sockets F650 (Single)/F800 Fiche

Tyco list the male 1-963470-1 as "restricted" This usually means built specifically for OEM
The BMW part No comes up as invalid, any chance of a typo on that ?

The female AMP 1-828817-1, PA66, BMW 1 378 114 comes up ok & there are stockists but $200 min order
Tyco/AMP description is 3P BU-GEH KOMPL Automotive
Tyco Part No 1-828818-1 (18288181) may be the same - Tyco description is 3P STIFT-GEH KOMPL Automotive
It is full BMW Part No 61 131 378 114 (body only) & used on many older model BMW cars. RealOEM search is

http://realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=61+131+378+114

The car spares boys should be able to ID pins and the male side using the part No for the female (if they are good)

It may also be under another part No 61138352304 $16.65 fitted to G650 (very uncertain on this)

Not a good answer so far, will take a look at another source later. Really would like a Part No/Source for my own machine
Thanks Wayne...
I tried to take a picture of the plugs with my new camera while in Macro mode, but failed ....
Stupid camera ... or stupid user...
The molded numbers are pretty damn small, one of the female connector was a bit scuffed up, and like the rest of me ... my eyes are not as young as they once were... but I thought I had them down correctly ...

Nothing seems easy on these bikes.....
I was really hoping to do something easily reversable to reduce output....
I have a summer trip planned to the tropics and don't think I'll need all of my 400W....

$200 minimum ... would that be for the entire order ...
In other words could I get $100 worth of the male and $100 of the female (if I could figure out what it was..........)?

Sigh............. at this rate I may wait for ElectroSport to come out with their unit and just put one in as a pro-active replacement ..........
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Old 06-14-2012, 06:47 AM   #463
WayneC1
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Not done yet, just ran out of time today, will look further & let you know

A car dealership spares dept really helped out the f650 single crowd to ID the mini fuse holder pins where the dike dealerships did not have a clue, so asking re the one I identified just may turn up all you need
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:59 PM   #464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Not done yet, just ran out of time today, will look further & let you know

A car dealership spares dept really helped out the f650 single crowd to ID the mini fuse holder pins where the dike dealerships did not have a clue, so asking re the one I identified just may turn up all you need
Thanks Wayne!
I really appreciate your hard work!
I have a buddy who's stator burned out on the road ... he had one of Rick's units installed and kept the old unit.

I'll be getting his dead unit in a few days.
I'll take the data you've dug up and the old stator plug to the BMW auto dealership and see what I can dig up!
I'll keep you posted!
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:43 PM   #465
hardbern
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oil cool it (maybe)

The wise Mr. Wisman made an observation way back in #81, last paragraph, about theoretically making an oil cooling nozzle to cool the stator using crank oil, and interestingly enough, Erik Buell Racing just started doing exactly that, and modifying the 1125 Rotax rotor by drilling a little feed-squirt hole (because as someone else pointed out, the Rotax powered Buells are having the exact same issue, and Badweatherbikers has a thread dedicated to the issue):
http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store...ification.html


I just happen to have bought one of these fire-sale Buells in 2010 and experienced the charging issue, which boils down to the stator overheating. H-D's fix, a service campaign and not a recall, was to install a relay that would cut one of the phases of the alternator at low speeds, making it a single-phase alternator, and the relay was controlled by the ECU which required a reflash. I had this campaign performed, but soon after took the bike apart to tinker with it and have been riding the beemer so I cannot speak personally as to the effectiveness (stator longevity) of H-D's fix,
but low and behold the Rotax stator on the beemer crapped out right before a long trip and that lead me here to your discussion.
Great work, by the way.
at any rate, I got rickmotorsportelectric's stator in the F650GS now, and it is working fine, but it got me to thinking that I would go ahead and pull the rotor out of the 1125 Buell, take copious pictures, send it to Erik Buell Racing for the mod, and then when I get it back I will take the Beemer Rotor out, compare them, and the crank ends and look into whether this seems like a possibility for improving the beemers stator longevity.

I hate having a part on my bike that I feel will go out at any moment - is that what it is like to be a homely man dating a supermodel? I guess a spare rotor will become part of the adventure tool kit (or maybe carry my Shorei LiPo battery charge up - it is really light)

For all you DIYers you should check this out: As far as the Buell problem goes, one owner, Greg Hildstrom - engineer in San Antonio, did an excellent nice write-up on his personal websight, http://hildstrom.com/projects/buellstator/index.html, of his project rotor rewind, and he even installed a thermocouple on his stator and graphed the results. It is a very good read and he has inspired me to attempt rewinding the beemer's original stator. He also took risk of drilling some "venting" holes in his rotor, and it will be interesting to follow his progress...
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