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Old 07-17-2012, 07:55 PM   #481
leadingedge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
Testing went well and we're making a good sized (production) batch. We are hoping to have them available in a few weeks for regular sale. We changed the winding set up and a lowered internal resistance of the wire/winding which helps a lot in keeping the stator cooler.... prices are not available as yet, but should be less than $150 USD.
I reckon I would be keen to have one as a spare if the price is right! Let us know about the group buy...
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Old 07-17-2012, 08:59 PM   #482
ebrabaek
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Personally I will wait until some in field testing is accomplished..... The rr was easy..... But this will cost more, and take a little more time to rr. I am cautiously optimistic though
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Old 07-18-2012, 01:05 AM   #483
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I don't want to be the doubter here but Electrosport has a very spotty track record as far as reliability is concerned.

The price seems very attractive but I would want to know exactly what they have done differently to assure that this will be better or at least on par with stock.
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Old 07-18-2012, 10:55 AM   #484
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I would be happy buying a stock stator if they did not cost $800.
Can anyone recommend a top quaity stator rebuild shop?
Will Electrosport epoxy dip the stator?
I dont trust stators without a stabilizing epoxy for longevity of the wires.
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Old 07-18-2012, 01:46 PM   #485
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
I would be happy buying a stock stator if they did not cost $800.
Can anyone recommend a top quaity stator rebuild shop?
Will Electrosport epoxy dip the stator?
I dont trust stators without a stabilizing epoxy for longevity of the wires.
I've asked about dipping and also about a group buy or other similar option...
Will post back with answer when I get it!
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:40 PM   #486
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Here's what my buddy at Electrocoat says:

The stators have a powder coat like finish that goes over the poles where the winding will be. Its green-ish on our other parts, you can kinda of see it on this stator for example: http://www.electrosport.com/stator-3-phase.html

Then the wire is insulated and wrapped and then an final epoxy is applied to really cement all the winding in place. Hope that answers your question.

I dont have any plan for a group/bulk purchase option.
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Old 07-18-2012, 09:42 PM   #487
Indy Unlimited
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I am willing to order 2 units now
Let us know when they will start taking orders.
Thanks JRWooden.
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:40 AM   #488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
I am willing to order 2 units now
Let us know when they will start taking orders.
Thanks JRWooden.
Although not open to group buy deal, I feel comfortable with what I understand the design to represent.
It may not in fact fix the problem, but as best I can tell they took all the data I sent them on the failed OEM design into account....

It would piss me off more than a little bit to be left stranded by the failed OEM stator ...
I'm likely to replace it sometime this winter...

I will post again as soon as I find out the part is open for sale!
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Old 07-19-2012, 10:36 PM   #489
Indy Unlimited
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I don't mind replacing the stator every 30,000 miles. I just don't want to start a flywheel collection.
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Old 07-20-2012, 06:22 AM   #490
ebrabaek
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Originally Posted by Indy Unlimited View Post
I don't mind replacing the stator every 30,000 miles. I just don't want to start a flywheel collection.
I share that thought...... I would like to have my motor last without breakage..... But honestly... If my stator will last to 50000.... that's not bad... imho. Hopefully The new flywheel/stator combo will be available at a somewhat lower price, as it should be closer to 500 or even 400..... Just my two cent's.
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Old 07-20-2012, 06:48 AM   #491
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Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
I share that thought...... I would like to have my motor last without breakage..... But honestly... If my stator will last to 50000.... that's not bad... imho. Hopefully The new flywheel/stator combo will be available at a somewhat lower price, as it should be closer to 500 or even 400..... Just my two cent's.
The fiche at MaxBMW now says for the assembly: 12317690427 was superseded by 12318524422 and the picture now looks like the new flywheel. Sticker price still $810 at this point

Someone was going to take a look at the oil-cooling modification ... where'd that end up?
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:41 AM   #492
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
The fiche at MaxBMW now says for the assembly: 12317690427 was superseded by 12318524422 and the picture now looks like the new flywheel. Sticker price still $810 at this point

Someone was going to take a look at the oil-cooling modification ... where'd that end up?
Yeppers.... 800 is simply too steep. I don't think bmw has any toes left to shoot off.... Clearly with an issue like this....it need's to be offered at a lower price. Grrrrrr... On a different tune. What I would like to know is this..... The ones with failed stators hear this...... Mileage, and what electrical equipment did you run...?????? Here is my thought.!! The more electrical load you impose...like vest....extra lights...etc.... the less of the "remaining energy" ie balance up to the 400 watts , need's to be dissipated in the stator, since it is now dissipated in the equipment.... Thus perhaps the stator is running just a bit cooler. Is this why some fail at 20000 miles....and other at twice that mileage?????? Just a thought.
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:07 PM   #493
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Originally Posted by ebrabaek View Post
Yeppers.... 800 is simply too steep. I don't think bmw has any toes left to shoot off.... Clearly with an issue like this....it need's to be offered at a lower price. Grrrrrr... On a different tune. What I would like to know is this..... The ones with failed stators hear this...... Mileage, and what electrical equipment did you run...?????? Here is my thought.!! The more electrical load you impose...like vest....extra lights...etc.... the less of the "remaining energy" ie balance up to the 400 watts , need's to be dissipated in the stator, since it is now dissipated in the equipment.... Thus perhaps the stator is running just a bit cooler. Is this why some fail at 20000 miles....and other at twice that mileage?????? Just a thought.
I run my Denali lights all the time. When traveling I alternate charging my gps and cell phone as well as run a 90W Warm and Safe liner in colder weather...No failures YET... knock on wood. edit.. heated grips too.

rockinrog screwed with this post 07-20-2012 at 01:50 PM
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:12 PM   #494
JRWooden
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Erling:

I could well be wrong on this, but if I understand how the OEM R/R works --- the gear load would not make a difference...

The R/R "accepts" full output from the stator (based on RPM) all of the time and then divides the available output between bike+accy items and "the frame". So the stator does not know/can't tell if you have a heated vest on or not...it's making all the power it can make all of the time... the R/R then uses whatever it needs and dumps the rest to ground.... but ... again ... I may have this screwed up...

It would seem that folks that ride in colder environments, do mostly short trips, and keep low RPMs might have better life since those things would tend to keep the stator cooler either via cooler engine, less time to heat-soak the stator, and reduced available output from the stator respectively? .... just my half-assed thoughts... ?
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:25 PM   #495
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
Erling:

I could well be wrong on this, but if I understand how the OEM R/R works --- the gear load would not make a difference...

The R/R "accepts" full output from the stator (based on RPM) all of the time and then divides the available output between bike+accy items and "the frame". So the stator does not know/can't tell if you have a heated vest on or not...it's making all the power it can make all of the time... the R/R then uses whatever it needs and dumps the rest to ground.... but ... again ... I may have this screwed up...

It would seem that folks that ride in colder environments, do mostly short trips, and keep low RPMs might have better life since those things would tend to keep the stator cooler either via cooler engine, less time to heat-soak the stator, and reduced available output from the stator respectively? .... just my half-assed thoughts... ?
No...... Your correct.... Just one small point missing...... The r/r does the shunting on the ac side....ie dumps it through the stator. As the R/R is not grounded..... except through the negative battery terminal..... The only way it could shunt the current after rectification would be through shorting of the pos and neg line to the battery.... But yet again... I don't have the block diagram for this shendigan.... So in all honesty....I come to this conclusion walking in the darkness...with my eyes closed holding a cup of espresso...... I just don't see the path to ground on the dc side with out a dedicated gnd.... without taking the battery with it...... Someone......toss a block diagram of the r/r.....
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