Another alternator hits the dust and not under warranty

[Bobo1167]

It's a nice thing to use to hold the crank while torqueing the big bolt and using the puller. I made one, but it took two hardware store trips to get the correct size. And a little grinder work.

I can't find one online, tonite. From the service disc, BMW part # 11 6 570. If this BMW tool costs less at a dealer, than a trip to your hardware store, buy it there.

I'll post picture of this tool when I take it out of the engine, Tuesday. bobo

[WayneC1]

CG2005 at f650.com has been making the same thing for the 650 single guys, may be worth checking if it is the same length as the single, I know he was making a new batch recently

[WayneC1]

Link to the f650 thread re TDC bolts

http://f650.com/forum/showthread.php...ucket-of-Bolts

[creola]

I would be more than pleased to make a batch of TDC bolts for the F800 crew if the ones I make for the F650 do not work. I need to know the diameter and pitch of the thread and the diameter and length of the tip.

I charge $15.00, shipping within CONUS included.

Thanks WayneC1 for the intro.

[ebrabaek]

Originally Posted by creola

I would be more than pleased to make a batch of TDC bolts for the F800 crew if the ones I make for the F650 do not work. I need to know the diameter and pitch of the thread and the diameter and length of the tip.

I charge $15.00, shipping within CONUS included.

Thanks WayneC1 for the intro.

I would be in for one...please.....

[WayneC1]

I just checked and the F650GS TDC bolt part No is 11 6 570 which is the same P/N Bobo1167 specified in a post above as being for the F800

[MikeMike]

Size is high strength M8 x 1.25 of 50mm length bolt with snout ground blunt to around 5 mm.
Page 2.13 in the Haynes manual.

I like those ones in the bucket. Nice work.

[creola]

The TDC bolts I make will apparently work for the F800 crew. I have a several on the shelf ready to ship. I you want one PM me your shipping address.

You may pay the $15.00 with a check, cash or money order. Paypal is also acceptable.

The $15.00 includes shipping CONUS. An additional shipping fee outside of CONUS will be determined once I check your address with the post office.

[Bobo1167]

Once you find all the tools and the green loctite.

ya gotta clean stuff up, the gasket surface and the tapers on the crankshaft and inside the new rotor. Leave the oil on the bearings inside the freewheel gear


If you haven't yet pull off the freewheel gear. It's not tight and pulls straight off the shaft.


These roller bearings should be oily before installation.


I smeared some oil on the shaft too. Keep the tapered parts clean.


While twisting the one direction it will go, push the freewheel bearing into the new rotor.


I squirted the Loctite 648 around the shaft in the circle like this, and a similar amount inside the rotor taper. It's kinda drippy. You also want to keep it out of the bearings.


The rotor is heavy, use two hand to just barely hang it on the end of the crankshaft, then, stick the thrust washer on the intermediate gear shaft, then shove the rotor on the rest of the way. This is all fiddly wiggly fitting and you can't actually see the mesh of the freewheel and intermediate gears. You should be able to see the end of the crankshaft fitting snuggly into the bore of the rotor.

Add some Loctite 648 to the threads of the big bolt and screw it into the end of the crankshaft. Tighten to 140NM=103ft/lbs. Mine did not turn very far beyond finger tight, maybe 2 rotations.


Put the cover on. I used some Hondabond liquid gasket on the rubber plug the stator wires ride in, and a little bit to hold the gasket in place. If you can see them the torque pattern is numbered on the picture above. All the screws are the same length, tighten to 12NM. My cover doesn't leak anymore.

Put all the other stuff back together and go ride.

bobo

[JRWooden]

Thanks Bobo!
Nice set of pictures!

[Bobo1167]

The locking screws mentioned above are beautiful, and given the choice i would have bought that cool looking tool.

OR, had any BMW shirt wearing guy or gal mentioned the need for this tool to me, I woulda shoulda coulda bought it then..I wonder what it costs from them?

but since I'm currently a statistic on the unenjoyment roles, I had time to "make" my own. Anyone with about a buck and access to a decent hardware store and a rock, grinder or a file can do this too.

I didn't bother to find a metric scale for this because I didn't care that much. Get a clue, 25mm=1inch that's close enough for this epistle.


the basic spec is 8mm (diameter) x 1.25mm (that's the pitch of threads) x 50mm long

A the middle screw is the winner and did the job well. It was only a 35mm screw but had the longest threaded portion of any of the allen headed screws at the store. Because of the long threaded length it works. Per the label on the drawer at the hardware store this is a grade 12 (very strong, stiff). It screwed into the engine almost all the way, almost as far as the plug.

2 the suggested screw (by the Haynes book, a 50mm grade 8 bolt) has a LARGE head (especially when you have to put a socket on it) and it bangs into the engine case before the pointy end seats securely in the the crankshaft. This bolt has enough length, but didn't seat firmly into the crankshaft (my pointy end grinding may have contributed to the lack of grip). A really desperate guy could grind off the hex head points and cut a big slot for a straight screwdriver and make this work ok*.

III would have failed also, because the threads aren't long enough and it would bottom out in the case before it seated in the crank. It is also a 50mm long bolt.

* Remember this is only a locking screw. It is only to be tightened "finger tight", ok maybe with a handheld turning tool. I used a common allen wrench on the 35mm screw.

This TDC locking tool is also "required" when a valve adjustment is needed, since very few 800 motors have ever desired valve adjustments, the tools are rare.

[bxr140]

Originally Posted by Bobo1167

This TDC locking tool is also "required" when a valve adjustment is needed...

If it helps anyone, +1. The bolt I used when I did my valves was like 100-120mm or something (if I remember correctly...) but as noted above, what really matters is the length of the threaded portion. The bolt I found in my bucket of parts was also tapered enough on the end that I didn't even have to do any grinding! Effective? Check. Quick? Check. Free? Check!

Shiny new stuff is nice, but ingenuity is far more rewarding.

[jttele]

Just a quick FYI, I had not seen anybody mention this, but the official BMW part # for the TDC locking bolt is: 83300401611 and it retails for $5.18. It's available from any dealer (probably to order), or Max BMW and others I'm sure have it to buy online. Go to Max's catalog and click on service and maint. section, and you'll find it there.

[greenthumb]

I purchased an infrared temp. gun a while back and took a couple readings of the side covers immediately after a few rides. The stator side cover runs in the 90 - 95°C range while the clutch side typically 60. I was thinking about trying to rig up a crude heat sink to attach to the stator cover to see if it cools things downs a bit. I also noticed that the exhaust pipes run almost directly in front of the the cover, so the hot air coming off them may be actually be contributing to the problem. I know it is just a band aid fix and not addressing the real problem.
Any ideas?

[guzzimike]

I notice that the new assembly (P/N 12 31 8 524 422) is now available on the Max website. Price has gone up $US125.