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Old 03-02-2013, 06:07 AM   #766
JRWooden
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Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh now that I'm drinking COFFEE I understand what you are saying ....

We are mixing modifications.....

I was talking about modifying the flywheel to allow spray oil cooling as shown here:

http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store...ification.html

I (now) understand you were talking about air cooling modification. To the best of my knowledge the Buell engineering team has not done any air-cooling flywheel mod, but I could really easily be wrong... The only air cooling mod. that I know of is they one done in link below by a guy in his garage. I think it very likely helps and is clever idea perhaps ... but no engineering checks were involved AFAIK.

http://hildstrom.com/projects/buellstator/index.html


I was at first a bit scared off of switching to the series style regulator, by some comments Joel made, and by the ugly looking waveforms shown in this document - waveforms I'd never want my onboard computers to see


www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=8336


And Joel's comments here (post #80):
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=781564&page=6

but thinking about that again all of that ugliness "should be" confined to the stator side of the R/R so maybe I'll circle back around and just get the series R/R kit, worry less ride more? If I understand correctly this kit is NOT a series design, but a more "efficient" shunt design?

http://motoelectrixcom.myshopify.com...-f700gs-f800gs

CompuFire are the guys with the series designs?

So why is it that the large motorcycle OEMs tend to use shunt style regulators?
Are they cheaper? Cheaper tends to work for most OEMs?
I understand the series style is potentially more efficient at low RPM, but we don't ride these things like an HD.... probably been covered before ....... and I forgot it............

Nice article here ........
http://hildstrom.com/projects/buellregulator/index.html

crap... signing off for the rest of the day.................

JRWooden screwed with this post 03-02-2013 at 06:35 AM
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:40 AM   #767
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Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
Do the RMStators come with the correct plug to fit the harness, or is it a "field operation" to move the connector to the replacement RMStator?
No, the RM stators come with bare wires but that makes it a little easier as you can just cut the bike wires off and solder the two sets together, and not have to delve into the weird connector setup which does tend to slow the whole job down.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:27 AM   #768
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No, the RM stators come with bare wires but that makes it a little easier as you can just cut the bike wires off and solder the two sets together, and not have to delve into the weird connector setup which does tend to slow the whole job down.
Sounds right.........
It is interesting how many different bikes are listed as being compatible with that stator....

http://www.rmstator.com/en/catalog-y...stator-rm01040

I wonder if they'd take an extra $20 to wind with wire rated at higher temperature than the 200C quoted in the specs?
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:42 AM   #769
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I wonder if they'd take an extra $20 to wind with wire rated at higher temperature than the 200C quoted in the specs?

Doubt they actually make them. I would bet that they all come from the same source and theirs just has a RMS stamped on it. Like Fram filters wth 100 different labels etc. Or turn signals. Gas. Viagara.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:58 AM   #770
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Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
Sounds right.........


I wonder if they'd take an extra $20 to wind with wire rated at higher temperature than the 200C quoted in the specs?
BMW would have like that too ...that would have been cheaper than the complex stator/rotor redesign they had to do.

I don't think there is a flowable wire coating that will go above 200C. If some one had it ..it would be in use.

there are insulations that do go above 200C, like Kapton film which will go to around 400C. the problem it is expensive and must be wrapped around the wire(vs flowed/molded). this is much more expensive operation. It also might make the winding more bulky..don't know.

the other option is oil cooling that has been mentioned several times....one would assume BMW looked at that and the airflow resign was better for some reason.

Now let's see if this blog works and some one comes up with a flowable insulation, that has the right dielectric and oil immunity properties... I hope so!!
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:46 PM   #771
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Kyle @ Electrosport told me their insulation was rated @ 220C,
but that may be an "optimistic" rating, I don't know ....................


Not sure how, or even if, they really do it, but these guys are claiming 315C / 600F on their stators.......
http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/index.html
(This is a company that makes a series style R/R that might work on our twins)

JRWooden screwed with this post 03-03-2013 at 09:11 AM
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Old 03-03-2013, 10:11 AM   #772
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What is the recommended source of aftermarket stators? Has anyone also found their voltage regulator to be fried? Ive tried to keep up with this topic but may have missed something. Im also having trouble getting the three conductor connector that lives under right side plastic cover to come apart. My measured AC voltage is low and very erratic with engine running, but dont see much of a problem when reading resistance with plug still connected. Wish I could get that connector disconnected.
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:27 AM   #773
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I think the options for purchase are as below, I've not seen any real "field data" regarding which might be superior to others. I fed Electrosport the details on our problems, and they say they have taken our issues into account and designed cooler running stator.

www.electrosport.com $200

other sources:
www.rmstator.com - $100
http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/ - ($200 I think?)

In terms of unplugging the stator I think there is a retainer on the two narrow sides of the plug that have to be squeezed in to release the plug?

JRWooden screwed with this post 03-03-2013 at 11:34 AM
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:34 AM   #774
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In terms of unplugging the stator I think there is a retainer on the two narrow sides of the plug that have to be squeezed in to release the plug?
I was mistaken - the plug you need to take off does have a couple of tabs to press, then the plug pulls out. I went and checked the bike and in my defense, it was cold and dark when I put it back together last.

Here's a couple of pics.



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Emmbeedee screwed with this post 03-03-2013 at 11:54 AM
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:06 PM   #775
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Ok, for the record, this set of pictures is of the connector which is at the end of the stator wiring, and which needs to be removed if your replacement stator has a connector on the end.

In the picture directly below, you can see the tang which needs to be moved over to unlock the two levels of wiring which are in that location. There's a smaller two wire connector right over the one which is the stator wire.







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Old 03-03-2013, 07:18 PM   #776
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In terms of unplugging the stator I think there is a retainer on the two narrow sides of the plug that have to be squeezed in to release the plug?
After studying the pictures I uploaded to the thread I finally made sense of how the connector works. The bit at the end of the cable is fixed to the bike through the locking mechanism on its base, and the two tangs, one on each side of the connector are pulled out to release the other side of the cable connection, but you can't 'pull' the yellow cable connector towards yourself unless you release the locking mechanism in the base.

Pulling the tangs out will release the far side so you can push that side of the wiring off.

Confused yet?
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:28 PM   #777
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No, try harder, have had similar problems getting the same type of connectors to release on my F single, the design of the connectors is over engineered and flaky
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:38 PM   #778
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No, try harder, have had similar problems getting the same type of connectors to release on my F single, the design of the connectors is over engineered and flaky
Try what harder? If you force these parts, they end up broken. What I ended up doing on both bikes is turning the whole cable connector in its mount in the frame about 45 degrees, which frees the whole connector from the frame, making it easier to disconnect everything.
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:42 PM   #779
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Sorry, meant try harder to confuse me, not pull harder to release, busy day, poor attempt at humour
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Old 03-03-2013, 07:44 PM   #780
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Sorry, meant try harder to confuse me, not pull harder to release, busy day, poor attempt at humour
Ah, I see now.
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