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Old 05-03-2013, 06:48 AM   #826
Reaver
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Ignore the BMW PN's. Some 800S engines are silver while the GS are black. Same damn oil filter except one is silver, one black. Therefore different PN's. The stator could have a different plug or a longer wire or some other minor varience.

The CS's were produced from 2001-05. The GS is the single version. The max amperage is higher in the GS but it doesn't say at what rpm, the CS is at 4000.
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:56 AM   #827
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I just installed this alternator http://www.rmstator.com/en/motorcycl...stator-rm01040 in my F800GS, and it works perfect.

I can confirm that its made in China (its written on the box).





New vs old one



Old one



No tools needed to pull out the old rotor, just with hands. Now Ive 14,1V at idle (before 12,6v), the best one for the price.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:15 PM   #828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fernan_ci View Post
No tools needed to pull out the old rotor, just with hands. Now Ive 14,1V at idle (before 12,6v), the best one for the price.
I think you mean 'no tools needed to pull the stator', not the rotor. If you didn't need tools to pull the rotor, you've got a big problem there. The rotor uses Loctite on its bore and is a really tough to remove. Ask me how I know.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:46 PM   #829
rmhrc628
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So is the problem that the stators are bathed in oil and therefore the windings break down ?
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Old 05-04-2013, 03:48 AM   #830
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So is the problem that the stators are bathed in oil and therefore the windings break down ?
More like the stators are bathed in heat and break down. The consensus seems to be a lack of cooling hastens their demise.
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"The motorcycle, being poorly designed for both flight and marine operation, sustained significant external and internal damage," police noted.
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Old 05-04-2013, 10:13 AM   #831
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Update: I spent yesterday morning finishing the job on my bike. My bolt came in. It took heat and unbelievable torque to pop that old rotor off. I was lifting the rear wheel off the ground with my wrench. One I got it off and removed the freewheel I compared the weights with a fulcrum (since I did not have a scale). The balance point was 11" from the old rotor and 12" from the new one which by my math means the new one weighs 11/12 as much as the old one. And it is obvious that there will be more air/mist circulation around the stator. My old one was discoloured but nowhere near blackened like some of those posted here. I will save it as a spare. My thrust washer was different from the one in the pictures here and elsewhere.


which bothered me initially as I thought I had lost it until I looked closer.

I also installed a Compufire regulator/rectifier



and tested it with grips on high, high beam on, jacket and gloves on and set to roast. It was able to maintain >13V at >3000rpm which I could not previously. No loss of capacity. After a nice long test ride the r/r was cool to the touch, nothing was dripping I am quite pleased with how it turned out.
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:26 AM   #832
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Great work

You couldn't have been so lucky as to have the CompuFire use the same bolt mounting pattern could you?

Had to sacrifice the connectors off the old regulator correct?

My "guess" is that the installation of a compufire or the
Cycle Electric CE 605 SB prior to failure of original stator would likely keep things going OK even with the unvented flywheel due to less heat build-up.
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:52 AM   #833
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
Great work

You couldn't have been so lucky as to have the CompuFire use the same bolt mounting pattern could you?

Had to sacrifice the connectors off the old regulator correct?

My "guess" is that the installation of a compufire or the
Cycle Electric CE 605 SB prior to failure of original stator would likely keep things going OK even with the unvented flywheel due to less heat build-up.
It was the #55402 which had to come from California and cost me $203.99 + shipping. I had to make a new bracket because it did not match the bolt pattern. I used a piece of sheet stainless steel cut to match the regulator exactly. Did not paint it - it won't rust.

I used only the 3-wire stator connector from the old unit. The Compufire had nice leads with a 40A inline fuse which reached easily to the battery posts and bolted right on. So I just covered the unused part of the original charging circuit harness and zip-tied it away. If I ever need a oem-style replacement, it will be there waiting.

I think your guess about not needing the new style rotor is probably correct and most likely the new generator kit from BMW would also be adequate with a standard shunt r/r. It just appealed to me to do it all, plus there are a few, tiny, side benefits: the lighter flywheel, the better (to me) voltage, the lower heat inside as well as outside, lightly (about 1/4 hp) less power wasted on creating heat when the charging load is low, and now I have working spares of everything for piece of mind.

One of my pet peaves is getting stranded in the middle of nowhere. Another quirk is seeing something better and wanting that instead.
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:56 AM   #834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
Great work

You couldn't have been so lucky as to have the CompuFire use the same bolt mounting pattern could you?

Had to sacrifice the connectors off the old regulator correct?

My "guess" is that the installation of a compufire or the
Cycle Electric CE 605 SB prior to failure of original stator would likely keep things going OK even with the unvented flywheel due to less heat build-up
.
I will agree with that motion, as you now only have the generative heat created in the stator..... The waste heat is eliminated....Making for a cooler running Stator.
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Old 05-04-2013, 11:58 AM   #835
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Here is a better look at the Compufire in which you can just see a bit of the bracket I made.
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:51 PM   #836
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Thanks for the extra picture and details DBH

I agree with all you said
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:05 PM   #837
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I suspect everything will be fine but we really need to track these conversions over time. Defiantly go somewhere it is safe to test out the ABS repeatedly and test it at various battery states of charge.

That instillation is going to saturate the ABS brain in whatever EMI that series regulator produces.

I suspect everything will be fine but I have seen HID ballasts cause electrical glitches that effectively shut down the brake system as well as cause the basic module to hang and run the battery fead.

Probably everything will be fine and it will save your stator, but please test, test, test, and report back your findings.

Nice job mounting the regulator!
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:15 PM   #838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelWisman View Post
I suspect everything will be fine but we really need to track these conversions over time. Defiantly go somewhere it is safe to test out the ABS repeatedly and test it at various battery states of charge.

That instillation is going to saturate the ABS brain in whatever EMI that series regulator produces.

I suspect everything will be fine but I have seen HID ballasts cause electrical glitches that effectively shut down the brake system as well as cause the basic module to hang and run the battery fead.

Probably everything will be fine and it will save your stator, but please test, test, test, and report back your findings.

Nice job mounting the regulator!
Joel:

I'm planning on buying one of the series regulators, and have an Electrical Engineer with Oscilloscope who has volunteered to help me gather some hard data ... I'm not sure if he has a Harmonic analyzer or not....... but I think he does.

If you have any suggestions on specifics we should be looking for let me know

I think you have my e-mail address / PM me / Post here

Jim
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Old 05-04-2013, 02:48 PM   #839
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelWisman View Post
I suspect everything will be fine but we really need to track these conversions over time. Defiantly go somewhere it is safe to test out the ABS repeatedly and test it at various battery states of charge.

That instillation is going to saturate the ABS brain in whatever EMI that series regulator produces.

I suspect everything will be fine but I have seen HID ballasts cause electrical glitches that effectively shut down the brake system as well as cause the basic module to hang and run the battery fead.

Probably everything will be fine and it will save your stator, but please test, test, test, and report back your findings.

Nice job mounting the regulator!
I've chimed in here a few times, don't own an F series BMW but am familiar with stator issues on my Honda CBF1000. I replaced the r/r with a Compufire and brand new stator on my CBF and rode it for another 15,000kms (9300 miles) before selling it. The Honda had linked brakes with ABS and I never found anything to be different with the ABS right up until I sold it. I sort of wanted to keep that bike for a longer period of time to see if that r/r cured the Honda stator problems but was ready to move on. Good luck with your testing gents.
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Old 05-04-2013, 03:54 PM   #840
JoelWisman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
Joel:

I'm planning on buying one of the series regulators, and have an Electrical Engineer with Oscilloscope who has volunteered to help me gather some hard data ... I'm not sure if he has a Harmonic analyzer or not....... but I think he does.

If you have any suggestions on specifics we should be looking for let me know

I think you have my e-mail address / PM me / Post here

Jim
Put scope in AC coupling mode, test across battery terminals BEFORE and after regulator replacement. Timebase probably around 1 mS per division but hunt around. less is better.

Scope set to DC coupling start around 1 S a division and range down to 1 m/S a division to get a picture of any patterns. set triggers for switching transients and measure the peak down to say 1 nano second.


AC is very bad for battery.

DC fast transients are hard on electronics and can cause firmware glitches.

Also with scope set for 1 micro second AC coupled, hold probe tips perhaps 3 inches apart and get close old and then new regulator. You want the same distance and proximity with both old and new regulators. This will give us some indication EMI being generated. Less is better and this is how HID ballast were shutting down brake system on another BMW bike.

Good luck and have fun!
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