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Old 06-16-2013, 08:01 PM   #901
MikeMike
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Curious as to the brand of your voltage indicator.
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:25 PM   #902
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It is the one sold by advmonster
I have 3 of them and they all seem to be fine
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Old 06-16-2013, 11:25 PM   #903
ebrabaek
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mischief View Post
I have an '09 with about 48,000 miles on it. I have had a voltage indicator on it almost since I've had it. The indicator has always worked fine. Yesterday I went riding and about 80 miles out the voltage went from 13.7 to 11.8 so I turned around and made my way the 60 miles back to the highway with it indicating between 11.8 and 11.5. When I got back to the highway I opened it up in 4th, maybe 7500 rpm and it started showing 13.7 again. I have a ce series regulator to put on it but I haven't gotten it done yet but if the stator was burnt it wouldn't go in and out, would it? I suppose I will get another stator just in case but this seems weird. The temp was in the mid 80's so I don't think it was heat related
The best thing to do would be to spend about 15 minutes to properly diagnose the stator's function. It will tell you if it is functioning correct. I wrote up a how to. If you search for it it has the procedures to run the test.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:21 AM   #904
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Yes it would. If it stops charging for a while and drain the battery a little, then rew it up to produce more juice, it won't go up right away since charging the battery puts extra load to a weak stator. As the battery is charged the voltage goes up. When you slow down, it should go down again, especially when it is hot. My alternator died that way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mischief View Post
I have an '09 with about 48,000 miles on it. I have had a voltage indicator on it almost since I've had it. The indicator has always worked fine. Yesterday I went riding and about 80 miles out the voltage went from 13.7 to 11.8 so I turned around and made my way the 60 miles back to the highway with it indicating between 11.8 and 11.5. When I got back to the highway I opened it up in 4th, maybe 7500 rpm and it started showing 13.7 again. I have a ce series regulator to put on it but I haven't gotten it done yet but if the stator was burnt it wouldn't go in and out, would it? I suppose I will get another stator just in case but this seems weird. The temp was in the mid 80's so I don't think it was heat related
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:12 PM   #905
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Here is the latest observations on my charging system.

This weekend on a nice long ride to the mountains and back I noticed the voltage display on my Garmin 276C started indicating a range of voltages between 12.6 and 14.0

So I checked with a digital multimeter and it read 14.33V steady.

Bottom line: don't rely on your 276C alone for a definitive diagnosis.
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:41 PM   #906
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276c

Given all the stator problems I changed the display on my 276C to read voltage. I have seen a similar range as you report but the voltage always seems to be as one would expect - low after starting as the battery is recharged initially, lower as each additional load is switched on (lights, grip heaters....). I haven't checked but because the 276C is plugged into the BMW nav oulet and therefore switched by the ZFE I am thinking that the 276C reading will always be slightly less than the true voltage at the battery terminals because there will be some loss through the ZFE.

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Old 06-28-2013, 12:45 AM   #907
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbh View Post
Here is the latest observations on my charging system.

This weekend on a nice long ride to the mountains and back I noticed the voltage display on my Garmin 276C started indicating a range of voltages between 12.6 and 14.0

So I checked with a digital multimeter and it read 14.33V steady.

Bottom line: don't rely on your 276C alone for a definitive diagnosis.
Do you have the GPS wired directly to the battery?
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Old 06-28-2013, 03:24 PM   #908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Do you have the GPS wired directly to the battery?
No it is connected via the BMW GPS accessory connector. However, I checked the voltage at the same place with the multimeter and it reads the same voltage there as it does directly across the battery posts. My 276c is not accurate, and it fluctuates.
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Old 06-29-2013, 07:09 AM   #909
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Hmm, interesting. I have wondered that about my 478 as well.
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Old 07-03-2013, 02:19 PM   #910
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OK then. I was confuzzled by this post and it's meaning as I was out of the loop on something. I don't cheat on ADV with F800Riders so I think that's why.


Anyway, I got the jist of it and did the following:

My '09 F8 with 50K kms has the original battery, stator and RR. I purchased a new Deka batt and the latest OEM RR and changed both today just as preventative maintenance only, both worked fine. I changed the battery first to maintain good investigative practices.

Old RR: 13.9 V at idle with or without high grip heat and high beam on.
13.8 V at 4K rpm with no additional load.
13.7V at 4K with high grip heat and high beam on.

New OEM RR: 14.45 V at idle with or without high grip heat and high beam on.
14.3V at 4K with or without high grip heat and high beam on.

So that's about half a volt higher across the board and rumour here is that the higher voltage is preferred by the Alt and battery and may prolong the life of things. I also bought a Spark Bright Monsoon LED voltage monitor to be installed. I want to see how far this original stator will last. It's cooler in Canada so that may attribute to it's longevity being heat is the killer. We'll see what happens on my Toronto to LA trip soon. Oh I have a new stator waiting, I just don't want to give in to fear.

BTW, I bought two new RR's reeeeeeeeel cheap so that's why I went that route.



Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
Ed has also posted a pic which shows the difference in Mfr part No on the new spares stock of VR's which confirms what Joel was saying, new one at the top

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Old 08-17-2013, 06:47 PM   #911
drid
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Having a fried stator at 60K km I decided to rewind the stator my self.
As I was unwinding the old wire I noticed that not all coils have the same number of turns as I would expect, there is a 42/44 turns winding pattern on all three phases.
Does anyone know the reason for that?
Should I wind the new wire using the same pattern?
As mentioned in previous posts, new rotors have venting holes, I was thinking of maybe drilling holes my self on the old rotor, has any one tried that?
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:23 PM   #912
MikeMike
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drid, what was your oil change schedule in the 60,000 before the stator quit?
Were you following the BMW recommendation or a more frequent schedule of your own?
Just curious, thanks.
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Old 08-18-2013, 12:17 AM   #913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMike View Post
drid, what was your oil change schedule in the 60,000 before the stator quit?
Were you following the BMW recommendation or a more frequent schedule of your own?
Just curious, thanks.
BMW dealers in Greece recommend oil change every 5K km and I followed that recommendation. I think the manual recommends a 10K change, but not sure.
In addition, they were initially using ARAL 10W40 and moved to MOTOREX 15W50 at some point.
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Old 08-18-2013, 06:48 AM   #914
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Back in March of last year BMW "officially" started recommending 15W-50 for the twins - See:
http://www.bmw-motorrad.dk/se/sv/services/media/PI_OlL_BMW_MC_2012_MD.pdf


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Old 08-18-2013, 07:19 AM   #915
MikeMike
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Thanks.
You know what I was thinking was that perhaps the failure was related somehow with the oil.
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